To Love You More
This century the largest city in Basque Country is inextricably linked to one piece of adventurous built form. Guggenheim Museum Bilbao is something of a showstopper. Yet follow the curve of the River Nervión eastwards and high above Old Town rises another piece of adventurous built form erected just over half a century before the museum took shape and shifted the dial of cultural tourism forever.
The Ascensor de Begoña elevates the humble lift both physically and architecturally. Architect Rafael Fontán’s Brutalist reinforced concrete was built for moving people, not moving (stationary) art. In such a hilly city, it linked the 18th century El Arenal parkland with the medieval Old Town. A 45 metre high (the equivalent of about 13 storeys) elevated passageway connected the hillside to a square hollow vertical column containing a lift. Unfortunately, Ascensor de Begoña has been closed since 2014 over a maintenance dispute.
Bilbao’s medieval Old Town is literally overshadowed by Ascensor de Begoña and metaphorically overshadowed by the Guggenheim Museum. Nonetheless it is well worth exploring. The historic core of the city, like its Basque neighbour San Sebastián, is a neoclassical plaza. It looks older, but Plaza Nueva was officially opened in 1851. A long build gestation – which could explain its earlier appearance – was inevitable with three architects on board: Silvestre Pérez, Antonio Echevarría and Avelino Goikoetxea. Pintxo bars are aplenty on Plaza Nueva under the arched Doric arcade. The very dog friendly Tostao café and bakery (with its resident canine) faces onto ZIngira Kalea next to the river.
St Nicolás’ Catholic Church is a fine example of baroque Basque architecture. It was designed by Ignacio Ibero and completed in 1756. The monumental exterior is constructed of local Ganguren stone. Twin belltowers flank a central belfry on the façade; the St Nicolás Plaza facing elevation has a double height arched arcade. A vast octagonal tower enclosing an interior dome is slightly set back from the building line. To the north of St Nicolás’, the river facing City Hall was built to the design of municipal architect Joaquin Rucoba in 1892. Second Empire was the style of choice: France is after all a mere 120 kilometres from Bilbao.
The turn of last century apartment blocks of Old Town have beautifully detailed winter gardens. Projecting balconies encased by glass and timber panels provide residents with all year round usability, noise insulation and nosying opportunities on neighbours. Who needs Gogglebox? Winter gardens are all the rage with London planning authorities. Nothing new under the sun.
On the far side of River Nervión set in the turn of the 20th century grid of development is. Architect José María Basterra’s Gothic design was completed in two parts: the spire was erected 14 years after the church was inaugurated in 1918. The gleaming white stone exterior of St Joseph’s (the ubiquitous Bilbao red pantile roofs hidden behind parapets) looks new under the sun.
While the city sleeps, we explore its streets like curious cats. The reflection of golden illumination from street lamps relieves the velvety darkness of the River Nervión. We prowl riverside along Paseo de Uribitart. Ascending Villarías Kalea, shop windows display goods but nobody’s browsing. On the far side of the river, in the Old Town, the scent of baking bread escapes from bakeries. The bells of St Nicolás’ aren’t a’pealing. We slink past the Dog’s Fountain on Txakur Kalea. A lone jogger runs by. Dawn’s about to crack this nocturne in black and gold.
