Month: August 2025

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Architects Architecture Art Design People Restaurants Town Houses

The Wallace Collection Marylebone London + John O’Connell

Quotes of Armour

Despite being a Sèvres urn’s throw from London’s Oxford Street, The Wallace Collection at Hertford House always radiates an air of calm and civility. Perhaps it’s the sylvan setting of Manchester Square. Maybe it’s the muted acoustics of the Courtyard Restaurant. But most likely it is the dignity – even with some daring moments – of the interiors that secures this aura of being far from the madding crowd. The latest room in the former home of the Victorian collector Sir Richard Wallace to shine once more is the Great Gallery. It’s December 2014 and John O’Connell, Founder and Director of John J O’Connell Architects, is about to give a private tour of The Wallace Collection. The municipal museum is once more a sumptuous townhouse. Over to John:

“Sir Richard Wallace planned the internal spaces around the main staircase which has a balustrade from the Hôtel de Nevers in Paris. In principle, each room is enhanced to stress the domestic or private mansion aspect of the main house. For example interconnecting doors between rooms have been reinstated and indeed in the Study we have introduced an entirely new false door to visually balance the existing doorway on the other side of the fireplace. Our main purpose is to provide an augmented setting for the Collection. It is not about re-creating rooms as they were, no, but rather re-presenting them for today’s visitors and scholars. The colour of the Dining Garden Hall is a quieter silver grey. You can’t have hectic colours all the time! Curtains should cascade and be three dimensional: they should come forwards and backwards.”

“This is the size of a city block, the Great Gallery, so it’s an extraordinary beautiful room and what we’ve done is gone and looked at the archived photograph of the room as it was with this lovely laylight which had to be abolished at a certain moment and now with modern technology we can again have this great laylight. This is where you have studio glazing at the top of the roof and it in turn lets light down onto this magnificent daylight so in other words it has a huge amount of natural light falling into the room.”

“It’s not wallpaper on the walls. It’s the most wonderful possible fabric, silk, and it’s not just damask, it’s a brocatelle, so it’s got even more silk in it! I think that to, as it were, bring the gallery forward into the modern age, you need to get the best possible conditions: lighting, climate control, security, fire safety compliance, decorative effects, so you can bring all of that into this great space. You could only do that if you go right back and lift the roof off because that’s what happened here. You see, the entire roof of the Great Gallery was taken off and what we have here is a whole new room within the gallery space because this has the technology almost of a railway terminal, when you see the supporting structure, and yet inside it is so beautiful.”

“Architectural features must do at least three jobs. The oculi in the latticed cast plasterwork punch through the cove: vertical stop, start, stop, start, all the way round the room. They also let more light into the room and act as the return path for the air conditioning. Reinstating wainscoting has curatorial importance. The paintings come to life against coloured fabric above the dado rail and the light coloured wainscot is appropriate as a backdrop to furniture. The gilt fillet of the wainscot is more pronounced than in the preceding galleries. If it was too small it would look titchy; if it was too over the top it would look bonkers. The wainscot must flow along. The Great Gallery enshrines everything we have learned during our 19 years working at the Collection. Everything bar the floor is new.”

“I think first of all The Wallace Collection is so multifaceted, the armour, then of course furniture, particularly Boulle, as an architect we love Boulle furniture, this is what we really want! The great thing is here the parameters are set. You can move everything but you cannot acquire and you cannot dispose which is marvellous, so it’s like a game of chess all the time. Everything is of equal importance. The placement of objects is just so important.”

Earlier that year Country Life had featured the Great Gallery in its 10 September edition hailing the “triumphant revitalisation”. The hang has long been recognised as one of the world’s best displays of Old Masters. Only two of the principal galleries attached to aristocratic London townhouses survive: Apsley House in Piccadilly and Hertford House. But it was John’s work which really enthralled the magazine. Michael Hall writes in Gallery Tour: The Great Gallery at The Wallace Collection:

“The present restoration – which forms a climax, but not the conclusion, of a comprehensive programme of refurbishment of the galleries begun under The Wallace’s former Director Dame Rosalind Savill in 2000 – has been paid for by a single donation of £5 million by the Monument Trust, in memory of the Honourable Simon Sainsbury, a major donor to The Wallace and a former Trustee. As with the other galleries, the design work has been carried out by John O’Connell Architects.”

“At first glance, it may seem that nothing has changed, but, in fact, almost everything has. Even the gallery’s two doors, at the far ends of the south wall, are not in their original places. They were formerly close to the corners of the room, creating a dead space in the angle; now that they have been moved closer together, there is room to hang large pictures on either side of them. In the 1978 to 1982 restoration, the walls were hung with a coral coloured fabric, which, by 2012, had faded. It has been replaced by a small patterned crimson damask woven by Prelle in Lyon.”

“Inspired by the great Victorian private picture galleries of London – continuing a tradition that goes back to the 17th century – it provides a satisfyingly rich and deep toned backdrop to the paintings. The main seat furniture in the room, an early Louis XVI set of chairs and settees, has been reupholstered to match. One subtle but striking improvement is the addition of a chair rail and dado, which the room had never possessed before. This anchors the furniture to the setting, but, more significantly, provides a strong architectural base for the hang of the paintings, preventing any feeling that they are floating on these huge walls.”

“Most impressive of all is the coved ceiling. An entirely new design by John O’Connell, it reintroduces indirect sunlight by means of oval laylights in the cove and a large laylight in the centre of the room. This has been made possible by advances in air conditioning technology: the new system installed as part of the refurbishment is very much smaller than its 1978 to 1982 predecessor. Daylight brings the room alive, and lends sparkle to the paintings, enhanced by an entirely new lighting scheme – predominantly LEDs – by the engineers, Sutton Vane Associates.” Michael Hall describes the Great Gallery as “one of London’s greatest rooms”.

Ros was Director from 1992 to 2011. Her appointment was approved by Prime Minister John Major because The Wallace is a national museum. She had the dual task of creating the optimal 21st century museum visitor experience and meeting the expanded expectation of the Government. Ros breathed light and life into the museum, excavating the basement and glazing over the courtyard. Two temporary exhibition galleries, a theatre, a learning studio, a library, a meeting room and rows of individual bathrooms were inserted into the basement. The new spaces combine the practical with the scholarly. Most of all, Ros wanted the objects to sparkle and to bring a new domestic intimacy to the staterooms. And so she called upon John and together they embarked upon the golden age of transformation – at pace. Visitor numbers more than doubled.

At her Memorial Service in St Marylebone Anglican Church in May 2025, the Reverend Canon Dr Stephen Evans said, “Rosalind is not only renowned for her services to the study of ceramics, but also someone once described as ‘the most distinguished woman museum director of the western world’. Not only the keeper who transformed The Wallace Collection. A trusted advisor. A wise, exciting and imaginative teacher. An engaging meticulous writer whose public service was enlivened by ebullience, verve and passion.”

It’s August 2025: asparagus and feta mousse followed by orange and poppyseed cake are being served in the Courtyard Restaurant. A time for reflection in and on and about a monumental cultural legacy. The late great Dame Rosalind Savill was an inspirational scholar of European decorative arts, a visionary museum director, and a human being of such intelligence, empathy and grace. She called John “my genius architect”. His practice would later be responsible for redesigning major country house estates such as Montalto in County Down. What Ros and John achieved together at The Wallace Collection remains a touchstone of excellence for museums everywhere. Dancing to the music of time.

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Architects Architecture Country Houses People Restaurants

The McCauslands + Drenagh Limavady Londonderry

Jericho’s Retina

“The house looks lovely in the sun: we want you to come and visit us! The gardens are open seven days a week and you can do lots of walks. There are walks from five minutes to 45 minutes. We have a Walled Garden, an Italian Garden, an Arboretum and lots of fun stuff. It’s poignant for me because having almost lost everything I now want to make a legacy for my children. Sometimes it is overwhelming because when I look at other gardens that are successful and how well they do it, I look at the number of staff they have and I think – it’s just Daniel and me! That’s it at the moment. When you’re in the house and you see all these 12 generations of McCauslands looking down at you, you can’t help but feel they’re watching you. The café and shop are the first building work on the estate in a century.” So says owner Conolly McCausland.

Welcome to Drenagh, one of the three Sir Charles Lanyon designed statement country houses of Ulster. The other two are Ballywalter Park in County Down and Dundarave in County Antrim. In 2014 two of the three were for sale. Dundarave and its 485 hectare estate were sold through Savills to an investor company for around £10 million. Drenagh and its 400 hectare estate went on the market through Simon O’Brien for the same price. It was the end of a centuries’ long era for the McCausland family: the main lender Leeds Clydesdale Bank had withdrawn its support for Drenagh and the associated farm. But the following year, Conolly raised £5 million with the sale of land which more than covered the reported bank debts of £3.2 million. Drenagh was taken off the market.

The Honourable Dorinda Lady Dunleath and Sir Charles Brett and their cohorts spent much of the second half of the 20th century Listing the heritage of Ulster. Walter Girvan compiled the unusually titled North Derry (the accepted norm is Derry City in County Londonderry) List in 1972 to 1974. It’s quite the entry and worth quoting in its entirety for fullness. So here goes. “Drenagh House stands in a commanding position in the centre of well wooded parkland to the east of Limavady. The family home of the McCauslands, it was originally called Fruithill; as at Dundarave near Bushmills, it seems to have assumed a new name with its final rebuilding in the late 1830s. Its predecessor appeared to date from the 1730s; the Ordnance Survey comments that it was ‘an old fashioned looking house, which looks extremely well when seen partly through the trees by which it is surrounded’. It probably was similar to Streeve House and, in spite of extensions, was already by the 1820s thought to be too small, so John Hargrave was asked to produce drawings for an entirely new house. Elevations and plans survive and show a chaste neo Greek design, which bears a resemblance to Seaforde House, County Down. Hargrave was not given the job and there the matter rested until Charles Lanyon arrived in County Antrim as County Surveyor in 1836. The present building appears to be Lanyon’s very first commission for a country seat of major proportions, and it is interesting to watch his progress from the relatively restrained neoclassicism of Drenagh, through the greater flamboyance of Laurel Hill in Coleraine of 1843, to the sumptuous Italianate of Dundarave in 1847. In retrospect, the superb assurance of Dundarave is lacking in the earlier building, although there are typical Lanyon touches.”

Born in Cork in the 1780s, John Hargrave’s office was on Talbot Street in Dublin. He was especially active in the northwest. One of Omagh in County Tyrone’s most prominent landmarks, the Courthouse, is by his hand. One of Omagh’s most obscure buildings is another of his designs, the Prison Governor’s House. He brings the former’s strong string courses and the latter’s polygonal geometry to his design for Drenagh. The house that never was has a long five bay two storey “Elevation of Principal Front” with tripartite windows at either end of the ground floor. The entrance door is also treated in tripartite form with flanking sidelights. Clerestory windows below the cornice light an attic floor. At first it’s hard to reconcile this front with “Elevation towards the Rear” as the latter is narrower, higher with an exposed raised basement, and treated differently with a canted bay window either side of the central three bays. Column and pilaster free, John proves himself to be master of astylar architecture.

Why the McCauslands dropped John Hargrave’s proposal is lost in the mists of time. Sir Charles Lanyon’s executed main block is more regular in footprint, a deeper and narrower rectangle. It is a mirror image of John’s: the ancillary wing stretches to the left, not the right, of the main entrance door. The basement is not externally visible. Both designs have two canted bay windows on the elevation facing away from the entrance although the built version are much shallower.

Back to William Girvan, “The house, of two stories, is of finely dressed sandstone. As at Dundarave, each of the main facades is treated differently. The entrance front is five bays wide, the central bay recessed in the usual Lanyon way. While the lower windows are plain, the upper have shallow surrounds, curving into the string course which acts as a sill. The hipped roof is concealed behind a balustrade, and weight is given to the central bay for blocking out the balusters. A hexastyle portico of unfluted Ionic columns, surmounted by a balustrade, enclose the entrance door, which has a semicircular fanlight and sidelights, an idea reused at Laurel Hill and Dundarave. The double string course between storeys units each façade. The southwest front is more awkward – six bays long; the central two bays step forward and are framed by shallow giant pilasters; the surmounting pediment is not strong enough to dominate. The northwest front is managed better. Canted bay windows rise through the two storeys and frame a French window which has a mock segmental fanlight. A lower block of offices extends north eastwards.”

“The interior plan is similar to both Ballywalter Park and Dundarave. An entrance hall with a shallow dome set on Soanesque pendentives opens into a central hall from which all the reception rooms lead. More intimate in scale than its successors, it has a screen of richly decorated Corinthian columns. For ceiling and overdoor and ornaments Lanyon used classical mouldings. A shallow coloured glass dome lights the room. The effect is Roman in its weightiness. The stair, rising between one of the columned screens, divides at the half landing; it has particularly fine cast iron balusters, clad in ivy tendrils. The stairwell ceiling is richly moulded with a scalloped design, bordering an acanthus roundel. Each of the reception rooms is treated differently; the Drawing Room ceiling is the most splendid with an enriched gilded cornice, containing a device Lanyon used elsewhere in the house and at Bellarena – a continuous pipe, encircled by acanthus leaves; the rest is panelled, with a flower bedecked roundel. The Morning Room and Dining Room ceilings are simpler; a nice original Victorian wallpaper of tangled flowers still hangs in the Saloon. Each room has a lavish marble fireplace, all of different pattern and hue. The first floor bedroom passage has unusual and attractive plaster ribbed vaulting, rising from corbels; on the side opposite the stairwell, the pattern changes to a series of shallow domes.”

“The courtyard behind the house is entered by a shallow segmental archway; above is a pediment with clock inserted. The two storey stable courtyard lies beyond; a simple design of six wide coach arches, the centre two pedimented and stepping forward; the side wings, seven bays long have round headed fanlights over the doors. All is in dressed sandstone. Adjacent to it is a second court of rubblestone: this is probably the stable block of the older Fruithill.”

“The house is surrounded by lawns, enclosed by balustraded terraces. Beyond are well wooded shrubberies and a stately flight of steps leading to a massive balustraded vantage point, which looks over a dell, laid out formally with ponds; under it is a fountain exedra. The remains of the old house have been laid out as a walled garden. The northern gatelodge by Lanyon is an exceptionally refined three bay by three sandstone cottage with minuscule tetrastyle Ionic portico – a foretaste of the big house. It has a fine set of piers and gates. The southern lodge dates from 1830 and is a charming L shaped sandstone cottage with pretty paired Gothick lattice pane windows set in simple reveals. It is known as Logan’s Lodge.”

Taken for Granted, compiled by Alistair Coey and Richard Pierce in 1984 for a specialist audience, was described by its authors as “a celebration of 10 years of historic buildings conservation”. The entry for Drenagh confirms, “Charles Lanyon’s first large country house commission. Built in 1836 on the site of an earlier house dating from the 1730s. The house is neoclassical two storeys of finely detailed ashlar sandstone with three different main elevational treatments. A balustraded parapet conceals the roof. The interior is planned around a large central hall lit by a circular leaded light. Phase one: grant assistance of £263 given towards repairs to leadwork. Approximate cost of work: £640. Carried out in 1976. Contractor: Dickie and Hamilton, Coleraine. Phase two: grant assistance of £1,400 given towards repairs to chimneys, roofs, rainwater goods and stonework. Redecoration of remedial items. Approximate cost of work: £2,868. Carried out in 1978. Contractor: Dickie and Hamilton, Coleraine. Phase three: grant assistance of £250 given towards repairs to leadwork including clocktower. Approximate cost of work: £513. Carried out in 1980. Contractor: Dickie and Hamilton, Coleraine. Phase four: grant assistance of £680 given towards treatment of wood rot and subsequent reinstatement. Approximate cost of work: £1,363. Carried out in 1980. Phase five: grant assistance of £3,800 given towards repairs to leadwork. Treatment of extensive dry rot and repairs to internal plasterwork. Approximate cost of work: £7,615. Carried out in 1981. Contractor: William Douglas, Limavady. Timber treatment: Rentokil, Belfast.”

The footprint of the main block is deeper than in it is wide. Perpendicular to the five bay southeast facing entrance front, the southwest front is a generously spaced six bays. An even number is unusual: an odd number of bays allowing for a central feature is conventional in classical architecture. Sir Charles Lanyon came to own it though: Ballywalter Park has a six bay garden front (excluding the wings) and Dundarave has a six bay entrance front. The Entrance Hall of Drenagh leads into a central Corinthian columned Hall naturally illuminated by a circular rooflight. The triple flight staircase rises to one side of the Hall. The architect was a master of the flow: the main reception rooms – Billiard Room, Morning Room, Library, Drawing Room, Salon and Dining Room (going anticlockwise) – all open off the Hall.

On the first floor, a continuous bedroom corridor circulates around the void over the circular rooflight. Still going anticlockwise, Work Room, Blue Room, Balcony Room, South Room, Green Room, Rose Room, Orange Room, Monroe Room and Bow Room all have glorious views across the gardens and parkland. The footprint of the wing, which is formed around a courtyard and stretches towards the stable block, is as large as the footprint of the main block. The storey heights of the wing are much lower as befits its status. Drenagh is built on a grand scale: the Drawing Room measures 11 metres into the bay window by 6.6 metres wide. The Orange Room above it measures 6.7 metres by 6.6 metres. To put that in context, at 44.22 square metres the Orange Room is just shy of the recommended size of a one bed flat in the 2021 London Plan which is 50 square metres.

There are lots of other residential properties on the estate. Bothy Flat, Clock Flat, Laundry Flat and Upper Garden Flat are in the wing. Forester’s Cottage, Garden Cottage, Logan Cottage, Kitty’s Cottage, The Pheasantry, Shell Hill Cottage, Streeve Hill and Yard House are standalone buildings. Killane Lodge is a gatelodge: the main house in miniature. So the farmland continues to be farmed and the estate dwellings tenanted.

Conolly launched Drenagh as a wedding venue in 2012. A ceremony for up to 60 guests can be held in the house or a marquee in the Walled Garden for a maximum of 200 people. He says, “The romantic Moon Garden and the elegant Morning Room are inspirational places for couples to tie the knot. We can accommodate 16 overnight guests in the main house and 12 in the wing. Drenagh can also be rented and is proving popular, especially for American guests. Our housekeeper will look after arrangements.” Helicopter flights can be arranged to pick up guests arriving at City of Derry Airport and set them down on the lawn outside the house. Or a limousine can be despatched.

A lot has changed since 1991 when Conolly’s mother and stepfather took the first steps towards estate diversification by opening the house to large group tours and for bed and breakfast as part of the Hidden Ireland group. Back then the Italian Garden was a mass of bamboos. The remote northwest of Northern Ireland has some catching up to do with the touristy east coast. There are no National Trust country houses nearby. The nearest country house, Bellarena, which was partially remodelled by Sir Charles Lanyon, remains unopen to the public. Drenagh fills the cultural void, flies the heritage flag, and provides fabulous quiche in The Orangery café inside the Walled Garden.

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Squerryes Court + Winery Westerham Kent

The Summer Garden of England

Apart from the parkland surrounding the house, the rest of the 1,000 hectare estate until the beginning of this century was used for agriculture. Now 21 hectares are under vine. Our joyful vintner explains the vineyard uses the double fermentation Champagne method for the sparkling wine it produces. She says, “We blend Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier to create our balanced and complex final signature wines. Chardonnay brings elegance and finesse; Pinot Noir delivers structure and depth; and Pinot Meunier adds a fruity profile.” Located high on the North Downs in Kent, the vintage wines of the Squerryes Estate are a distinct expression of the terroir – such a great French word – and winemaking methods.

But first we spin by Squerryes Court to get a glimpse of the house and lake and parkland. The house is at the top of a gentle rise to the south of Westerham (the Winery is to the east). The two most famous sons of this historic town are General James Wolfe and Sir Winston Churchill. Both gentlemen were friends with the owners of Squerryes Court. John Warde and Anne Warde signed the interwar visitors’ book at Chartwell, the Churchills’ nearby residence. Squerryes Court is the quintessential English country house. The Pevsner guide to Kent: West and the Weald by John Newman (1980), states, “The epitome of the hipped roof house, as popularised by Sir Roger Pratt’s Clarendon House, Piccadilly, handsome in its proportions and unusually craftsmanly in its warm red brickwork.” Sir Nicholas Crisp bought the estate in 1681 and completed the house five years later. In 1731, John Warde bought the house and estate.

We head off to the Squerryes Winery Restaurant in time for the last of the summer sparkling wine. Our ebullient vintner tells us the Head Chef is from the west of Ireland. Seamus McDonagh trained at the Galway Mayo Institute of Technology. “A lot of my food is based around the French cooking classics,” he shares. “I just like to add a bit of a modern twist.” We’re fine wining and dining and reclining on the terrace on a sunkissed evening watching shadows creep across the vines. Marmite butter, smoked cod roe, Scottish King Scallops, barbequed aubergine marinated in chimichurri, chocolate sponge cake … everything we love.

Vintage Rosé 2021 is the perfect accompaniment to our meal. This vegan wine disgorged in August last year is 75 percent Pinot Noir and 25 percent Pinot Meunier. Laura Evans, Squerryes Master of Wine, describes its tasting notes, “Delicate pink. On the nose crunchy red fruits, redcurrant, sun ripened strawberries and raspberries. On the palate, notes of strawberries and cream pink grapefruit and minerality.” The warm climate and chalk soil of Kent are ideal for such high quality sparkling winemaking.

Henry Warde is the eighth generation of the family to live in Squerryes Court. He relates, “‘Licet Esse Beatis’ is our family motto, meaning ‘permitted to be joyful’, so we like to say that we’re in the business of creating joy! Treasured letters tell how my ancestor Sir Patience Warde traded wool from the Estate with the French for red wine which he then sold to the hardworking people of London bringing some pleasure to their days.”

He continues, “It felt like the tides were changing when centuries later a very well known French Champagne house came to Squerryes looking to buy some of our land on which to grow their vines. My father John and I decided to walk away from those negotiations and instead set about planting 36 acres of vines ourselves back in 2006. The ‘long thirsty wait’ that my father spoke of when the first vines were planted has been well worth it. We are already enjoying recognition for the quality of our vintage wines.” Our jubilant vintner tells us the Winery now sells 100,000 bottles a year.

Wine GB’s 2025 Industry Report states that there are now 1,104 vineyards (totalling 4,489 hectares under vine in England and 91 hectares in Wales) which together produce 9.1 million bottles a year (6.2 million of sparkling and 2.9 million of still). Plantings are up 510 percent since 2005. The most planted grape varieties in descending order of dominance are Chardonnay (31 percent of the total hectarage), Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Bacchus, Seyval Blanc, Solaris, Pinot Gris, Reichensteiner, Rondo and Pinot Blanc (one percent of the total hectarage). Actually there are now 99 grape varieties in England and Wales including just three hectares of Merlot and a lonely two hectares of Riesling.

England now has 10 wine growing counties. Again, in descending order of scale is Kent (almost one third of the total hectarage), West Sussex, Essex, East Sussex, Hampshire, Surrey, Dorset, Gloucestershire, Devon and Suffolk (below two percent). Squerryes Winery is in line with the regional breakdown: the top Southeast varieties are Chardonnay followed by Pinot Noir and finally Pinot Meunier. Champagne watch out!

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Architecture Country Houses People

The Landmark Trust + Obriss Farm The Weald Kent

A Gentle Revisitation of Days That Are No More

An article in the May 1990 edition of the now defunct Traditional Homes magazine marked The Landmark Trust’s silver jubilee. Julia Abel Smith records in History for Hire, “The organisation was founded in 1965 to save minor but important buildings, and to give them a new life by letting them out to holidaymakers. In co founder Sir John’s words, ‘The Landmark Trust was set up ‘to tackle projects too troublesome or unfashionable for anyone else.’” So there might be a midnight dash across a roof terrace to the bathroom or the need to duck under low ceiling beams. Julia notes that generally the Trust does not take on buildings that could be restored as permanent homes.

Some are urban oases such as Marshal Wade’s House in the centre of Bath. Others are coastal retreats like St Augustine’s Grange and St Edward’s Presbytery on the edge of Ramsgate. And at least one has a kilometre long drive and a view unbroken by any other buildings stretching across fields towards infinity or at least the far side of The Weald. That will be Obriss Farm betwixt pretty Edenbridge and even prettier Westerham. Except for the occasional plane streaking the sky en route to Gatwick, it’s hard to imagine the property is a mere 61 kilometres from The Ritz (London not Paris). A copse and an orchard and fields form a green and pleasant apron round this red house and attendant barns. The Trust lets out the 65 hectare farm for pasture.

Obriss Farm was bequeathed by Helena Cooper in 1990. It was formerly part of the Chartwell Estate which was bought by Sir Winston Churchill in 1922 and is now a major National Trust tourist attraction. The oldest part of the complex is the late 16th century dark stained weatherboarded bakehouse immediately behind the farmhouse – a standalone kitchen. The front half of the house also dates from Tudor times. It was doubled in size down the centuries. Later stables and a cowhouse to the west of the house and a wool store to the east have similar dark stained weatherboarding. A 17th century threshing barn is set back from the end of the lawn. The two storey plus attic house has tile hung upper floors on the side and rear elevations matching the roof tiles. Brick is used elsewhere.

The rectangular floor plan is simply laid out to accommodate five guests. Leaded casement windows, exposed timber frame walls and terracotta tiled floors provide a robust backdrop to antique pieces and comfortable furniture. Everything is so beautiful and simple. “The countryside was still in its summer green,” rhapsodises the poet Siegfried Sassoon in his 1940 autobiography The Weald of Youth, “and the afternoon roads hot and dusty.” That’s just one of many local interest books in the sitting room. On a warm summer weekend little has changed. Rabbits and pheasants and buzzards appear and disappear. Apples and blackberries and damson plums are ripe for picking. Local placenames are quintessentially English: Bardogs; Pootings; Puddledock.

Richard Harwood OBE KC, Joint Head of Chambers of 39 Essex Chambers, and Clarissa Levi, Art and Heritage Counsel of Wedlake Bell, host a podcast series Art and Heritage Law. The Landmark Trust at 60 episode is an interview with the historian and charity’s Director, Dr Anna Keay OBE. “We were established to do two things,” Anna explains. “Firstly, to rescue historic buildings in jeopardy in the UK, principally, and to repair and rejuvenate them. Secondly, and really importantly, to make them into places people can really enjoy and specifically through making them available for people to stay in for breaks – for holidays. That’s what we’ve been doing for the last 60 years.”

Anna expands on the origins of the Trust. “We were founded by two individuals, John and Christian Smith, both sadly now dead. They were quite involved in the conservation movement in the Sixties and of course this was a postwar time of unparalleled destruction and damage to historic fabric – partly the impact of war and partly a process of what was seen then as national renewal. The rate of Listed Building demolition in the mid 1960s – I always find this amazing – was 400 a year in England.” While the big institutions, notably The National Trust and the Ministry of Works, concentrated on saving stately homes, smaller properties were being overlooked.

Clarissa mentions how she likes Sir John Smith’s quote about rescuing troublesome and unfashionable buildings. Anna responds, “That’s us!” John Smith was an MP for a short time and was one of the people responsible for introducing the Planning Act 1965 which created Conservation Areas. “They started small,” Anna confirms. “The first two buildings they took on were quite modest vernacular buildings: Church Cottage and Paxton’s Tower Lodge, both in south Wales. They placed an advert in The Sunday Times in 1967 saying holiday cottages from The Landmark Trust available to rent and they went from there to completing three or four buildings every year.”

When you enter a Landmark Trust property, after being bowled over by the architecture, there’s a distinct interior look to admire. Anna says, “Essentially it’s an old English country house vibe slightly merged with a sort of Arts and Crafts quite spare approach which is totally born of personal taste. It’s timelessly lovely.” Old Turkish rugs, oak furniture, comfy sofas and pictures of local scenery or historical characters create a formula that works along with branded details like clothes hangers and soap. Richard remarks, “It comes over in the fabulous book for the 50th anniversary by Anna and Caroline Stanford that the Trust was a personal mission of the Smiths but also how they would pull their friends and contacts into how things were designed and how things were thought through.”

She observes, “The irony is that such is the strange world for demand of different types of furniture and paintings and stuff from the past that if you were to go into John Lewis to buy a new dining room table it would cost way more that if you were to go to an antiques fair and get one from a bloke in a field.” Old pieces are more sustainable, often better made and look more at home in period properties. What Anna calls “a whole cycle of positives”.

There are three core criteria for choosing to take on a new building. It must be of really special historical or architectural significance. It must be at genuine risk and not saveable by the market. And it must be financially viable under the Trust’s model. “Our work not only involves the physicality of trying to save somewhere but also trying to untangle complicated tenure or freeing a building from the status that may in part be why it’s got into such a bad state.” Clarissa comments, “I love the reimagining of buildings for places to have a lovely holiday in that were never intended to actually be stayed in. I am thinking of when I was a child I went to stay with family one time in the Landmark Trust’s Pineapple. It blew my mind – it still does really!”

The charity also plays a wider role. Over to Anna again, “The Trust has shown how adaptable buildings can be ever since it was converting old industrial buildings to domestic use in the Seventies. Now of course we’re all used to the idea of an old mill becoming flats but in the Sixties that was unthinkable. As well as being a lovely thing for people to stay in them it can be a way of showing how changes can be made sympathetically that will hopefully inspire other adaptations.” A philosophy of care guides each restoration (and often a conversion is involved) from the outset. The Trust considers what are the special characteristics to enhance and preserve. This founding principle is referred to when practical decisions need to be made. The volumes of the original space and its former use are respected and celebrated.

Anna says, “Projects take a long time so we always have some we are just about to finish on and hang up the curtains and others right at the beginning and we’re trying to do the land acquisition. One we are working on at the moment which is a really exciting is a World War II project: what was RAF Ibsley down in the New Forest. It was what was known as a ‘watch office’. The building is derelict and in a really bad way.”

“Another big one that we’re right at the beginning of and we’re so excited about has been a cause célèbre of heritage at risk for actually 50 years is a house called Mavisbank. It’s just outside Edinburgh – it’s not a remote building. The house was designed by William Adam, father of Robert Adam, the progenitor of that amazing dynasty of architects. His client was John Clarke who was one of the people who signed the Act of Union between England and Scotland. Mavisbank is really the first great neo Palladian house in Scotland and has been derelict, roofless and in the most dangerous state for decades now. It was nearly demolished in the Eighties. The compulsory purchase order is under way and all being well by the end of the year we will be the proud owners of a totally derelict 1720s house!”

Anna concludes, “We’re thrilled to be part of the rescue of these buildings but we’re only a part of the journey. Those people who come to stay in our buildings or financially support our campaigns or write letters of support – they are travelling with us. It’s a real mass movement activity. We haven’t got a shares portfolio; we don’t have a mega investor. We are literally a charity that survives on the support people give us because they choose to and the fact that people can stay in our buildings. The pioneering spirit of the Edwardian philanthropists is in our DNA.” Richard ends the podcast, “What you’ve set out is not only the philosophy of heritage but also the way you go about it, the way you think about buildings and how they should be rescued and brought back into use.”

Browsing through more books in the sitting room, Sir William Addison could easily be referring to Obriss Farm in Farmhouses in The English Landscape, 1986, “Eventually the prudent yeomen of The Weald realised how destructive of every local interest reckless felling of timber would be if it continued much longer. So what was called half timbering was introduced, with thinner timbers wider apart built into the structure in square or oblong panels to be filled with wattle and daub in the East Anglia manner. But in Kent, as early as Elizabeth I’s reign, tiles were being used for wall cladding in half timbered buildings as well as for those built up to first floor level in brick. In the later years of the 17th century weatherboarding came into competition with hanging tiles for wall cladding.” Half timbering can best be seen in the south wall of the single bedroom at the rear of the house: it was once an external wall.

And Roger Higham nicely sums up the county in Kent, 1974, “There are at least three good reasons why Kent makes a fit literary and photographic subject: firstly, it is large; secondly, it is diverse; and thirdly, it is accessible. A fourth reason perhaps transcending the first three, could be suggested: its importance.” The last reason could apply to an article and even more so when it focuses on Obriss Farm in The Weald.

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Architecture Art Design Developers Luxury Restaurants Town Houses

Passage des Panoramas + Musée Grévin Paris

A Lesson in Skiagraphy

It’s a diorama come to life. The past is present in Passage des Panoramas. A timeline as permeable as an Alice Rohrwacher film (La Chimera, 2023). It’s straight out of an Émile Zola novel. Literally (Nana, 1880). Built in 1799, this was the first covered arcade in Paris, oozing period character and historic authenticity. It combines beauty with functionality with rarity. Elegant white arches support the glazed pitched roof over rows of exquisite wooden shopfronts with colourful painted panels. Passage des Panoramas is a shortcut between Palais Royal and Montmartre. Only 17 such arcades have survived Georges-Eugène Haussmann’s rebuilding of the city.

There’s quirky and there’s Victoria Station Wagon Restaurant which is like a railway coach derailed at the entrance. A winged wolf and a bejewelled lynx peer through the windows of Caffè Stern in the centre. Philippe Starck designed the interior of this petite restaurant owned by the Alajmo group which runs the three Michelin star Le Calandre in Padova. Postcards of flooded streets and reclining kittens can be found in Maison Prins. On the opposite side of Boulevard Montmartre is Musée Grévin which opened in 1882. It’s where celebrities come to life – in wax.

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Architecture Art Design Fashion Luxury Town Houses

Paris + L’Art de Vivre

Releasing the Pressure

A dash across Paris can easily turn into a Coco Mademoiselle Chanel ad style escapade. Sipping morning coffee on a balcony of Le Milie Rose Hôtel teetering over Rue des Petites Ecuries (Street of Little Stables). Popping into Pleaseness for an 80s retro retail kick. Saying salut to François (Mahé) and Nico (Francioni) in La Mâle d’Effeenne. Lighting a candle in St Paul and St Louis Church. In an increasingly byzantine world, the French Capital never fails to elevate the body and soul.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses People

Lytham Hall Lytham St Anne’s Lancashire +

Rhymes With Rhythm

A short car ride though the beautiful Blackpool suburb of Lytham St Anne’s – turn of the 20th century villas between sand dunes – leads from the best hotel in northwest England (obviously Boulevard) to the grandest country house in the region. A few months previously Peter Sheppard and Keith Day had hosted lunch on a rainy afternoon in the library of Wolterton Hall in Norfolk just before they sold up. In contrast, a visit to Lytham Hall is on a sunny morning. What’s the connection? The two buildings were crowned joint winners of the Historic Houses Restoration Award 2022. It is thanks to the combined drive of General Manager Peter Anthony and Deputy Manager Paul Lomax over the last eight years that the revival of Lytham Hall has been such a laudable success.

The main block, wings, most of the outbuildings and the parkland have all been restored beyond any former glory.  Rooms are now brimming with chattels from taxidermy to hosiery, dressed to the nines or at least the 1890s. Intense colours ensure there’s never a dull moment: lemon coloured walls; an emerald hued ceiling; lime panels and peach coving; burgundy flock wallpaper. In contrast, Lytham Hall has a no nonsense Palladian exterior that is unmistakeably by the able hand of Yorkshireman John Carr. Everything is just so about it from sound proportions to sturdy detailing. Exuberance is saved for the interior decoration. Fellow Yorkshireman Francis Johnson would take on the mantle of serious neoclassical architecture two centuries later.

Francis even worked on Everingham Park, a John Carr house outside York. This contemporaneous seven bay three storey house is a smaller plainer version of Lytham Hall. David Neave and John Martin Robinson state in Francis Johnson Architect: A Classical Statement (2001), “Francis’s treatment of Everingham was typical of his scholarly approach to old buildings. He fully researched the history of the house and its place in Carr’s oeuvre before preparing his designs; studying the original drawings as well as the building itself. The Duke of Norfolk wished to reduce the house to its manageable 18th century core, and commissioned Francis to carry out the work. Francis found that the structure of Carr’s building, with its oak joinery, had withstood mid 20th century neglect better than the 19th century wings with their pine joinery; this reinforced the decision to demolish the later parts. The 19th century blocking course was removed and replaced with a half round cast iron gutter and cornice copied from that at Carr’s Lytham Hall in Lancashire.”

Brian Wragg gives the best lowdown on Lytham Hall in John Carr of York (2000), “Thomas Clifton inherited Clifton, which his family had bought in 1606, aged 10, in 1737. 20 years later, although he had no obvious Yorkshire connections, he called in Carr to rebuild the house, which lies on flat pasturelands a mile from the estuary of the River Ribble. Most of the building accounts, bills, plans and drawings have disappeared, but a labourers’ account book first mentions building work in 1757 and in 1750 mentions ‘Doorcasing and stroothing of grand staircases etc’. The 1757 to 1764 account book of the steward, Raymond Watt, shows that the house was complete in 1764, when on 17 March, Carr was paid £189 and 14 shillings, the balance of his account … Fitting up of the house continued well into the 1760s … Care and money were lavished on the elevations, with an attached Ionic portico on the east elevation. The main rooms are on the ground floor, and the Main Entrance Hall, with a handsome Rococo ceiling, has a heavy Kentian fireplace. The imperial staircase, one of Carr’s finest creations, is particularly grand and may have been inspired by that by Paine at Doncaster Mansion House of 1745 to 1747. The Dining Room shows the influence of Adam and must have been completed later. The house is now offices.”

In familiar country house fashion, portions of the preceding 17th century house were remodelled as ancillary wings around a courtyard. All that is hidden behind the lawn view of the entrance front. Nine bays rising three storeys are set in bright red brick in Flemish bond framed by a grid of stone and yellow painted stucco quoins and Ionic columns and string courses and cornicing. The proportions are so pleasing to behold. A pediment surmounting the three bay columned breakfront is just the right height. A hipped roof follows the slopes of the pediment. The main block is five bays deep. The three bay east facing Entrance Hall leads through to the Staircase Hall which links with the smaller North Entrance Hall (a double cube). Four reception rooms fill the rest of the ground floor. Four principal bedroom suites and Violet Clifton’s mid 20th century rooms occupy the first floor with secondary bedrooms on the second floor.

Good looks don’t come cheap. “It takes in excess of £1 million a year to run Lytham Hall,” Peter explains. “Once we’ve finished the expensive restoration projects, we should really just be maintaining the place but maintenance alone costs a fortune. For example, the building has a very intricate expensive alarm system – it’s got museum status in its own right.” Paul adds, “We do have a vast stable block that could potentially be used as holiday lets in the future. It’s going to cost a fortune to restore that area because it’s a large building and in quite a state. It would make a lovely kind of retail space for local crafts as well. We utilise every corner of what we have because you have to when our costs are so high.”

Peter says, “We just strive to get bigger and better each year and to give the best visitor experience. We now have around 250,000 visitors a year. When we came on board that figure was around 20,000. I always call it mould to gold: we have gone from a mouldy old mansion to something now that is glowing and twinkling like a beacon. Our new larger shop has been a great success. We hold massive events in the grounds such as the Lytham Proms attracting a few thousand people. There’s never a quiet month because we’re open all year round whereas a lot of stately homes close for the winter and reopen at Easter. The start of our year is the snowdrop season which is very popular; that then gently rolls into Easter and before you know it the open air theatre is happening followed by Halloween and Christmas activities.”

“After weeks of hard work our Billiard Room is finally finished and we are over the moon with the results!” exclaims Paul. “This room had to be taken off our tour for a couple of years ago as the roof lantern was being problematic. Thankfully the roof work was completed last autumn and the large timber lantern was repaired and made watertight.” Local company Finelines then started work on the huge task of redecoration. A mauve and green National Trust endorsed Little Greene colourway replaces a toxic gâteau of beige paint layers. Brass Art Nouveau hanging lamps are quite an improvement on the removed strip lighting. Billiard rooms were the must have extension of the late 19th century. Think Mourne Park and Ballywalter Park, both in County Down. The Billiard Room at Lytham Hall is a late Victorian interior embellished with Edwardian stained glass windows. William Morris’ 1901 seaweed pattern was selected for the curtain fabric: historically and geographically appropriate.

A sign in one of the dressing rooms states: “Lady Eleanor Cecily Lowther Clifton’s beautiful dress was reproduced from the stipple engraving of Lady Eleanor (John Henry Robinson 1845, National Portrait Gallery) by one our talented house volunteers, Judith Davitt. The dress is made of silk taffeta and features a typical V shape at the waist. As we don’t know the original colour of the dress we used some beautiful fabric from a pair of donated curtains. The dress was first displayed Christmas 2024 at Mr Fezziwig’s Party, part of our Dickens of a Christmas display. Lady Eleanor (1822 to 1894) was married to Colonel John Talbot Clifton (1819 to 1882). She was the sister of the 3rd Earl of Lonsdale of Lowther Castle in Cumbria.”

Peter concludes, “Lytham Hall means the absolute world to us: we live and breathe it. We’ve lived in Lytham since 1997 so the Fylde is definitely home and Lytham Hall itself has become such a massive part of our lives. It’s so rewarding – no two days are the same. You never know what’s going to happen when you walk through that door and that’s really exciting. It’s not just a place to work – it’s a vocation. The people who we’ve met along the way and worked with including staff and volunteers have been brilliant.”

The last Squire, Henry Talbot de Vere Clifton (Violet’s son), gave up ownership of Lytham Hall in 1965 to the creditors Guardian Royal Insurance who used it as a headquarters. In 1998 a local charity Lytham Town Trust bought the house and its remaining 32 hectares of parkland, and two years later passed everything over to the Heritage Trust for the Northwest. Since 2017 Peter Anthony and Paul Lomax along with Trustee Stephen Williams have developed a sustainable operation maximising every useable area. Fylde Borough’s only Grade I Listed Building is in safe – and enthusiastic – hands.

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Architecture Design Developers Restaurants Town Houses

The Flask Pub + Highgate London

Raising the Roofs

It’s the part of London associated with the dead but there’s also plenty of life in Highgate. England does pubs well and The Flask is an oasis for thirsty – and hungry – travellers. The pub blends in so well with its Georgian neighbours it could easily be mistaken for one of the grand houses. A stone plaque on the five bay three storey redbrick façade displays the date “1663” which must predate the current building. A rabbit warren of bars and dining rooms, some under low vaulted ceilings bending all sorts of modern building regulations, has all the atmosphere of a coaching inn. Highwayman Claude Duval might just swing by for a pint.

Or a glass of Champagne. She may have had a vested interest but a chalk message on a blackboard in The Flask quotes the sage words of Lilly Bollinger, “I only drink Champagne when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.” A faded print of Queen Anne hangs on the ladies’ lavatory door; Henry Prince of Wales beckons the gents.

Opposite The Flask is The Grove, an early 18th century suburban residential development in leafy environs. Poets Samuel Taylor Coleridge and Leigh Hunt; spy Anthony Blunt; singer George Michael; musicians Annie Lennox, Yehudi Menuhin and Sting; actors Gladys Cooper, Robert Donat and Jude Law; and model Kate Moss have all called The Grove home across the ages. It’s the sort of Georgian enclave that can only be found in London’s classier outlying villages such as Blackheath, Clapham and West Dulwich.

Across the road, or is it down the hill, or maybe over the brae – Highgate’s attractiveness is matched only by its confusion of layout – stands Lauderdale House. Vicky Wilson writes in London’s Houses, 2011, “An unattractive pebbledash building with an uninspiring five bay Georgian entrance front, a surprisingly unthought-out arrangement of windows on its long southeast side and a fine Doric colonnade at the back, Lauderdale House is nevertheless endowed with a history – both architectural and social. One of the few surviving large timber framed London houses, Lauderdale was built in 1582 by Sir Richard Martin, Warden and Masterworker of the Royal Mint, for his younger son Richard, probably with a rich bounty of Spanish gold earned from financing Sir Francis Drake’s circumnavigatoin of 1577 to 1580.”

She summarises the evolution of the house: “The Martins’ home was designed to be a U shaped plan around a central courtyard. The long southeast flank was probably divided into three rooms with a traditional great chamber on the first floor; the present entrance hall in the northeast wing was probably a dining room. A single storey building at the open end of the courtyard, connected by a corridor to the dining room, contained the kitchens. The construction is timberframe infilled with wattle and daub, with the larger upper floor frame resting on projecting joists, a method known as continuous jetting. The slight projection of the the upper floor today and the asymmetrical fenestration on the long front are the clearest clues to the building’s Tudor origins.”

Professor Finola O’Kane of University College Dublin has a slightly more positive view of the house, “Lauderdale House is an attractive, rambling, not very distinguished looking building which conceals a much earlier timber house. It has a few vestiges of its early garden including a parterre and mount. St Paul’s Cathedral could be seen from the garden. This is a suburban house closer to the City than the West End. Highgate wasn’t very fashionable in the 17th century and it really only got going in the 18th century.”

Both commentators criticise its mostly casual appearance resulting from a Georgian cloak draping over a Tudor frame. The lawn front is symmetrical from the first floor five bay jettied projection upwards. A second floor Diocletian window is surmounted by a pediment and flanked by half gables. The garden backs onto Waterlow Park which in turn abuts Highgate Cemetery. Lauderdale House is now an arts and education centre. Sunbathers catch rays between crawling ladybirds and fluttering white butterflies. A sky of awnings provides respite from the summer heat. An ice cream parlour is handily located off the lawn front.

Northwest of Lauderdale House is the former residence of the 19th century explorer Mary Kingsley. She was brought up in Avalon, a late Georgian two storey over basement redbrick villa with an elegant prostyle Roman Doric porch. The only window on the façade is over the porch. Four blind windows complete the balanced elevational composition. Wide windows capture views of the Capital on the garden facing south front. Opposite Avalon is a long single storey redbrick block with a double height centrepiece. A plaque under the central pediment reads: “Anno 1722. The si almes-houses founded by Sir John Woolaston being very old and decayed were pull’d down and these 12 built in their room together with a schoolhouse for the charity girls at the sole charge of Edward Pauncfort, one of the governours and treasurer of the Chapell and Free School of Highgate.”

In contrast to its Georgian neighbours, Holly Village is very High Victorian Gothic. An archway on one side and a gateway on the other side linked by holly hedgerows provide tantalising glimpses of 12 highly ornate large cottages grouped around a green. Built in 1865 by the property developer William Cubitt to the design of Henry Astley Darbishire, the four villas and four pairs of semi detached houses are – to use modern property parlance – highly spec’d, from Portland stone to teak wood. Gated developments are very Highgate: luxuriously appointed apartment and housing schemes behind cast iron railings would arrive in the 20th century on nearby Hillway.

Another piece of non neoclassical architecture is the Catholic Church of St Joseph on Highgate Hill. It is known locally as “Smoky Joe’s” after the high church religious order which runs it. The Passionists built the current monastery and chapel in 1858 in a Neo Romanesque style to the design of Albert Vicars (potentially some nominative determinism going on with that surname). The powerful white gone grey brick complex with copper domes over a dominant octagonal tower and smaller octagonal corner turrets dominates the townscape southeast of Lauderdale House.

The cemetery can wait.

Postscript: we know many of you missed out on the limited first edition of our bestseller Sabbath Plus One. But fear not: Daunt Marylebone may have sold out but north London’s top independent literature retailer House of Books in West Hampstead is now stocking the second edition. And the most flattering compliment of the month comes from said retailer about the 30 year old opening portrait in the fabric covered hand stitched 300 GSM paper heavyweight book, “That’s still you!”