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Fathi Hassan + The Sunderland Collection Art Programme + Paul Mellon Centre Fitzrovia London

Collections May Vary

Place des Vosges in Paris was the pioneering project kickstarting the whole palace fronted square rage. Bedford Square in London would follow almost two centuries later. Taking form between 1775 and 1782, it was probably masterplanned by Thomas Leverton and definitely built by William Scott and Robert Grews. Each three storey (plus basement and attic) residential urban block facing the garden square was architecturally treated as a single unit: a people’s palace. The central portion on all sides is stuccoed, pilastered and pedimented. Three bays (one house) on the northeast facing terrace. Six bays (two houses) on the northwest facing terrace. Six bays (two houses) on the southeast facing terrace. Five bays (one house) on the southwest facing terrace. The other houses are faced with brown brick enlivened by Coade stone detailing and first floor wrought iron balconies.

Bedford Square London

Businessperson Eleanor Coade developed the eponymous material which is a highly durable unglazed ceramic. Developed in the 18th century, this weatherproof artificial stone became an instant hit for neoclassical sculpture and ornamentation. The original formula was lost for almost three centuries upon Eleanor’s demise until 1990s laboratory analysis of surviving fragments revealed its constituents. So here goes: a ceramic mixture of 60 to 70 percent Dorset and Devon ball clay, 10 percent crushed fired clay, 10 percent crushed soda lime glass, and five to 10 percent of crushed flint and fine quartz sand. The fortified clay was moulded and fired at 1,000 degrees centigrade for four days.

The 53 Georgian houses (numbered consecutively one to 54 with no number 13) are all but one arranged symmetrically. That pesky three bay central house with its off centre doorcase on the northeast facing terrace! There’s also the glaring neoclassical solecism of a centrally placed pilaster. Those two pesky three bay central houses on the southeast facing terrace! Later cosmetic changes add individual character to the general uniformity of the palace fronts. If windows are the eyes of a building, Victorian blind boxes are the eyebrows. To carry on the anthropomorphic metaphor, wrought iron trellis columns and cornicing wrapping round three first floor windows are the glasses.

On the southeast facing side, 16 Bedford Square has been the home of the Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art, part of Yale University, since 1996. It would expand into number 15 in 2015. Founded in 1970 with an endowment from the American bank heir, philanthropist and racehorse breeder Paul Mellon, the Centre has a library of 26,000 art and architecture publications. It also has 25 archives of eminent art historians such as Brinsley Ford, Oliver Millar and Brian Sewell – the latter’s regular column was the real reason for reading the London Evening Standard.

Bedford Square London

Fathi Hassan @ Paul Mellon Centre London

Bedford Square London

Paul Mellon Centre London

Paul Mellon Centre London

Fathi Hassan @ Paul Mellon Centre London

Number 16 was once the home of James Wildman (1747 to 1816), lawyer to sugar plantations owner William Beckford. James’ brother Thomas was William’s agent. The two brothers leveraged this relationship to amass vast fortunes derived from Caribbean slavery. It is apropos that the Paul Mellon Centre’s in situ collaboration with The Sunderland Collection has a theme of counter colonialism. A hang of Nubian artist Fathi Hassan’s work around the elegant interior spaces of the Centre is arranged by Beth Greenacre, Curator of The Sunderland Collection Art Programme.

The Sunderland Collection (stored in London and Switzerland) includes globes, atlases, maps and geographical books from the 13th to 19th centuries. Its Art Programme, established in 2024, connects cultural heritage with contemporary artistic practice from around the world. Artists are invited to respond to pieces from the Collection in their preferred medium. Fathi explores the layered stories of the cartographic objects, reflecting on displacement and global interconnectedness. The resulting works are richly textured mixed media compositions in combinations of pencil, gouache, print and photography. His work implores the viewer to question is a map more than an embodiment of travelled land and actually a symbol of imposed power?

Fathi Hassan @ Paul Mellon Centre London

Trailblazers is a set of nine images hung in the entrance hall of the Centre. It features distinguished people such as Muhammed al Idrisi and Virginia Wolf. The contours of cartographic landmasses and borders dissolve into portraits overlaid with abstract calligraphy and arabesque designs. Fathi’s assemblages create new composite worlds suggesting alternative viewpoints. There’s at once a sense of being nowhere and everywhere, of being nobody and somebody. The artist says, “Nomadism comes from oblivion. That void, which in my life was due to my ancestors’ displacement, has always accompanied my thoughts.” And clearly, his art too.

Beth explains, “This collaboration is driven by a shared belief in the power of artist led research to connect historical objects with contemporary practice. Presenting Fathi’s work across the Centre reflects current thinking around Ongoing Colonial Worlds and uses art to examine the conditions of occupation and unrest, as well as displacement, colonialism, memory and identity.” Back in 1988, Edinburgh based Fathi was one of the first artists of African heritage included in the Venice Biennale.

Fathi Hassan

Sarah Victoria Turner, Director of the Paul Mellon Centre, says, “This exciting collaboration between the Paul Mellon Centre and The Sunderland Collection is built around our shared commitment to using our collections and spaces as platforms for discovery and making new connections. We are delighted to display Fathi Hassan’s work at the Centre and witness the ways in which it uses cartography to make bridges between the historic and contemporary and helps us reflect on questions of mapping, nation and identity.” Bedford Square in all its neoclassical beauty has evolved from being the home of the mercantile and professional classes (some with links to slave colonies) to being the address of leading artistic and academic institutions from the Architectural Association to Yale University Press to the Paul Mellon Centre.

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Frank Gehry + Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

A Word Based Universe

No time for a deep dive? Guggenheim Bilbao. On budget. On time. Unlike the Scottish Parliament Building. The container outshines the contents. Still successful. Only into its second year of publication, an article in the September / October 1997 edition of the glorious Wallpaper* magazine under the mastery of Tyler Brûlé is worth quoting. Almost in its entirety. Andrew Tuck’s 48 Hours in Bilbao sums up the excitement of that era, “A decade ago Bilbao seemed to be heading for a slow but sure death. After centuries at the heart of Spain’s shipbuilding and steel industries, it found that it could no longer compete with rivals in the Fat East, and neither could it attract the young pioneers of new technologies to the city. Bilbao simply lacked the lifestyle and culture that would make anyone want to move there.”

“The city’s leaders started looking for ways of reinvigorating Bilbao, just as the board of New York’s Guggenheim Museum was planning satellite museums around the world (the Guggenheim was facing Bilbao’s crisis in reverse: it had too much art and no chance of expanding at either its main Manhattan home or tiny Venice outpost). In 1991, after a year of courting, a union was announced that would bring together Basque taxpayers and the Solomon Guggenheim Foundation to build a vast $100 million contemporary art museum on the banks of the Nervión River in the heart of the city’s declining docks.”

Bilbao“The next move was to sign up an architect and after a restricted competition Frank Gehry won the day. Famed for his numerous international projects, Gehry has developed a complex style of non linear architecture in which flowing shapes fit together to create buildings that, while extraordinarily dramatic, blend perfectly into any cityspace. His fluid style was also perfect for dealing with a triangular site that is dissected by one of Bilbao’s busiest traffic bridges, the Puente de la Salve.”

“Now, just six years later, Gehry’s greatest building, and one of the wonders of modern architecture, is preparing to open its doors on 18 October, with a display of 20th century art from Cubism to multimedia installations, as well as the work of Basque artists. What’s more, the museum will be opening on budget and on time. The Guggenheim in Bilbao contains 18 galleries that vary from small classic and intimate spaces to the main gallery that, at 130 metres long and 30 metres wide, is bigger than a football pitch, and with doors that are large enough to let lorries through to deliver vast sculptures (such as the 170 tonnes of metal contained in Richard Serra’s work that is already in position). The central atrium is 55 metres tall and is ringed by walkways designed by Gehry to pay homage to Frank Lloyd Wright’s 1959 Guggenheim in New York.”

“But it’s the outside of the building that has won over the people of Bilbao: the exteriors of the galleries which house the photography and two dimensional painting collection are covered in limestone, but the spaces that will display more radical work and installations are covered in interlocking plates of titanium which recall the city’s shipbuilding traditions. It’s a metal that never blinds you on a sunny day and even at night reflects a soothing glow.”

BilbaoGuggenheim Museum Bilbao“Confident that culture and architecture can jumpstart Bilbao, the city has found funding to pay for a metro system designed by Sir Norman Foster, a footbridge across across the Nervión and a revamped airport both by Santiago Calatrava. The city is rerouting roads, building new apartments, parks, offices and a concert hall and cleaning up the polluted river. When the work is done, Bilbao hopes to become Europe’s new cultural capital. Mixed in with the new is style and luxury from the old days. Then there’s the chance to eat Basque food and tap into the region’s Celtic soul. In short, it’s time you dropped by.”

It’s time to unpack, rewind but nor relax – there’s too much to discuss. Back to the present. Frank Gehry died last year aged 96. He never retired. Born Frank Goldberg, he had a working class Jewish upbringing in Toronto. The architect changed his surname in the 1950s to protect his children from antisemitism. A sign of things to come – trailblazing deconstructivism – was the transformation of his bungalow in Santa Monica by adding layers of corrugated metal, plywood and chain link fencing. It didn’t do down well with the neighbours. But it was Frank’s harnessing of computer technology intended for the design of aircraft to buildings that set him apart from his contemporaries, eroding the line between architecture and sculpture.

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao“I want buildings that have passion in them,” he said in 1997, “that make people feel something – even if they get mad at them.” It was a good year to make that comment: the newly completed Guggenheim is filled to the skylights with passion. Later, he would apply a rationalised form of his trademark sinuous style to residential and commercial buildings. The following year came the RheinHafen Arts and Media Centre on Düsseldorf’s Am Handels and in 2022 the apartment block Prospect Place at Battersea Power Station, London. Despite their idiosyncratic volumes, both these developments use standardised windows unlike Enric Miralles Benedetta Tagliabue’s Scottish Parliament Building.

It’s easy, very easy, to get distracted by the billowing waves of cool silvery titanium – a sea of giant anchovies – but look closer and the Guggenheim Museum is materially anchored to the earth by warm yellowy Spanish limestone. Two components are picked out in colour: the hot blue administration block and the burnt red bridge. Across the river is the comforting proximity of vast villas, three dimensional reminders that Bilbao was once Spain’s richest city.

The complexity of the exterior is only matched by the intricacy of the interior. Three floors of enfilade free galleries offer three experiences: regular shaped rooms; irregular shaped rooms; and open spaces around the central limestone panelled and white painted plaster atrium. Big architecture needs big art. Andy Warhol’s 150 Multicoloured Marilyns, 1979, is the right scale for the permanent collection. The Pop Art mantra that image matters more than experience may seem a little dated now but then this is a (late) 20th century container of (mainly) 20th century contents. Jenny Holzer’s Installation of Bilbao, 1997, off the atrium is also suitably large. This site specific LED artwork consisting of nine signboards filled with scrolling texts rising up their 12 metre height is colourful, insightful and interactive.

Guggenheim Museum BilbaoDeep dive on one of the biggest architectural splashes of 20th century architecture and design over.

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Guggenheim Museum Bilbao + Lucinda Mudge

Art Attack

Bilbao“We live in such a lovely part of the world,” says the artist Lucinda Mudge over a long lunch in the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao where she’s exhibiting. It’s September 2013. “We designed and built our own house in a natural dune forest in Keurboomstrand outside Plettenberg Bay. We are surrounded by trees and dense indigenous bush. It is an extremely attractive place to live.” That’s the beautiful side of living in rural South Africa. But there’s a darker, more sinister side. “When my husband is abroad working, and it’s just me and the children, I’m aware of how isolated we are and how susceptible to burglary or violent crime. I go through this checklist before I go to bed: lock the doors, turn on my walkie talkie as there’s poor cell reception, keep the landline near the bed, and so on.”

BilbaoThis dichotomy directly translates into Lucinda’s art. Doors Locked is one of 26 ceramic vases from her concurrent show The White Tiger and Other Stories at Knysna Art Gallery in South Africa’s Western Cape. On one side it’s a beautiful black and gold object “decorated with the sort of thing a magpie would collect”. She laughs, “I make glitzy vases. They’re quite bling!” But the other side menacingly has her security checklist inscribed into the clay and painted with a honey glaze. “I Will Kill You And Then I Will Eat You” is emblazoned on another piece. She sees what she hears. She makes what she sees: “I incorporate headlines and quotes from local news stories into my vases.” Duality of experience. “I like playing off the two.”

BilbaoThe inspiration for Lucinda’s vases is partly rooted in Battersea, south London. “My husband and I moved to London straight after getting married in South Africa. I managed to secure a contract as a photographer to Ralph Lauren and I worked for him on a freelance basis for the four years we lived in Battersea. I joined an evening class in pottery – next door to Edmund de Waal but I never met him – and it was there that I learned about using slip as a means to decorate.” She had previously studied fine art at the University of Cape Town.

BilbaoGuggenheim Museum BilbaoGuggenheim Museum Bilbao“I was not exhibiting in London,” Lucinda recalls. “In retrospect I can see I was internalising a lot and absorbing a wealth of information. My time in London helped me to see more clearly when we returned to live in South Africa. I saw inequality in a new and ugly way. I think that when one lives in a country where generally speaking people are pretty well looked after, such as the UK, it is hard to conceive the reality of the lives of the underprivileged people elsewhere in the world.”

Lucinda Mudge ArtistNo doubt her vase If I Ever Had To Run For My Life I Would Probably Die has a story to tell. Hard hitting stuff, yes, but much of it is delivered with humour. Her piece How Glorious To Be Filthy Stinking Rich features a middle finger pointing upwards. There’s an underlying and at times explicit satire: jokes with jags. Lucinda confides she did experience the dreaded home invasion only recently: “I was upstairs when I heard someone prowling around below inside the house. Filled with trepidation, I ran to the top of the stairs and came face to face with the intruder. It was a baboon! They’re scared of male humans but not females, so I growled in a deep voice and did my best masculine impression!” The baboon, a beautiful but potentially dangerous creature, fled.

Lucinda Mudge ArtistLunch – memorable in intellectual and edible content – is a cocktail aperitif (coctel aperitivo); vegetables, sautéed potatoes and greenbeam cream (verduras, patatitas salteadas y crema de vainas); baby squid on crunchy noodles, red onion and green pepper (chipirón, sobre fideuá crujiente, cebolla roja y pimiento verde); raspberry ice cream, citrus fruit yoghurt and crispy stones (helado de frambuesa, yogur de cítricos y peidras crocantes); and homemade bread, coffee and petit fours (pan artesano café y petit fours).

Life in Keurboomstrand continues for the artist Lucinda between exhibiting in London and across South Africa, ever vigilant, ever observing, ever commenting through her rather wonderful art. Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

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Guggenheim Museum Bilbao + Making Africa A Continent of Contemporary Design + Ruth Asawa Retrospective

Jumping off Stage Into An Embrace

“After studying art and then studying architecture, I never needed the clarity of being either a professional architect or being an artist, and found sound kind of middle ground that was contaminated from all sides.” Elizabeth Diller, 2020.

This isn’t our first rodeo. It’s our second to the museum with a city attached. Back in time to October 2015. The moated mountain that is the Guggenheim. Looking (hyphen optional) shipshape. It’s approached by foot along the Abandoibarra riverside walk under Louise Bourgeois’ 1999 arachnid sculpture Maman which resembles for all the world – Philippe Starck on steroids – a giant Juicy Salif Lemon Squeezer. Art or design?

While the Frank Gehry designed museum’s regenerating “effect”, a left bank titanium building as quarter, inspired a rash of grimly unsuccessful turn of the century cultural projects (nobody mention Sheffield’s National Centre for Popular Music, imitators failed to register the added ingredients of Bilbao’s mix. Not one but a multiplicity of super architect projects including Arata Isozaki’s two fingered 23 storey cloud bothering salute as well as even recognisable names such as Santiago Calatrava, Norman Foster and Zaha Hadid. A delightful 15th century historic quarter. Dramatic scenery. Great cuisine. Good looking locals. Together these ingredients all made a recipe for success. As Victor Hugo once quipped, “Everyone who has visited the Basque Country longs to return; it is a blessed land.”

Making Africa A Continent of Contemporary Design is the latest exhibition at the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. The museum is closed to the public: we’re the first visitors. It’s curated by Petra Joos at the Guggenheim and Amelie Klein of Vitra Design Museum, Basel. The exhibition seeks to illustrate how design is steering change in Africa and presents the protagonists of this new epoch. Its context is globalisation through technology. “A part of this development is a new and open understanding of what design is,” explains Mateo Kries, Director of Vitra Design Museum. “It’s no longer limited to the creation of furniture, products, typography or fashion, but is very closely interwoven with the fields of photography, art, architecture and even urbanism.” He believes while this change is happening around the world today, it most clearly manifests itself in Africa.

Mateo’s counterpart Juan Ignacio Vidarte at the Guggenheim concurs, “It is in the intersection of innumerable creative fields that design holds a position as the focal point for multidisciplinary work. Making Africa successfully portrays the image of a continent that is beginning to move at this very moment.” C Stunners, 2012, eyewear sculptures by the Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru in the show’s Prologue section, are a metaphor for what’s to come. Who’s examining who? “We’re mutually examining ourselves,” Amelie contends. “The exhibition isn’t a totalising vision. Rather, a supplementary vision. Not an exhaustive dialogue – a starting point for our thoughts. One possible way, another way, of looking at the continent.” The exhibition cleverly conveys the diversity and complexity of Africa. After all, this is a landmass of one billion people.

Western misconceptions are diminished. Laughter replaces tears. “Something I got obsessed with is people dancing to Pharrell Williams’ video Happy!” smiles Amelie. “I really watched those videos, I dunno, for nights and nights in a row! There are dozens from Africa. Yet in our Westernised minds the continent is always struggling.” She selected the work of young South African photographer Jody Brand which depicts not only African street style but also party life and in doing so reflects a changing society. Jody’s images show there’s much more than struggle to Africa.

Guggenheim Museum BilbaoGuggenheim Museum BilbaoGuggenheim Museum BilbaoLike Mateo, Amelie believes “the continent is at the forefront of global technological change”. She continues, “Modernism was the result of change in Europe 100 years ago. What will we see coming out of this change?” The politics of representation are never far away. Who’s allowed to speak about Africa? The curators engaged in an intense three year preparation to quality. Their exhibition includes 75 recorded interviews with artists and designers. “In reality of course,” concedes Amelie, “there are millions and billions of different Africas. How can we speak about one Africa? From Cairo to Cape Town, there’s a lot in that!”

Making Africa attempts to answer many questions but the curators want visitors to go away asking new questions. And preferably seeing Africa in a new way or ways. “You will see art in this design show,” warns Amelie, “but I’ve used every single piece to make comment on design. That’s the thread that keeps everything together. I can make an argument for every single object on a key design issue.” One such issue is social and political commentary. Leanie van der Vyver’s Scary Beautiful, 2021, is a design statement – or is it art? – on cruelty in women’s fashion. Think historical ribcage crushing corsets or neck elongating braces. Leanie worked with shoe designer René van der Berg to create a pair of almost impossibly tall reversed high heels. Despite limiting the wearer’s mobility and controlling her silhouette to the extreme, the shoes are actually wearable. Segueing fashion to design and politics, Leanie asks the viewer to look anew at (not so) everyday apparel and what it represents.

The 120 contributing young thinkers and makers are a savvy and politically astute lot. They are a critical generation not afraid to speak out and are, perhaps, freer of the burden of colonialism. Making Africa doesn’t shy away from the darker side of the continent. South African artist Lucinda Mudge isn’t one to pull punches. Her hard hitting vases display home truths. “I use headlines from local crime story reports,” she says. I Will Kill You And Then I Will Eat You is emblazoned on the side of one of her vases. The other side, slogan free, is beautifully decorated in gold. Violence and beauty. One artist, duality of voice. Nothing is simply black or white. It’s a comment on not looking, on looking the other way. There’s more than one way to view a situation a design, an artwork. And a continent.

Parisian songstress Taali M bursts into song at the preview: “I’m gonna stand on the shoulders of giants…” Amelie informs us, “We have to rethink what design is. Is it art? Is it design? I don’t care! Design and art should be making bold statements about the future. Where do I come from? Where am I going? Who am I? If artists don’t make bold statements, if not them, who? Otherwise we will be stuck where we are. Period. Taali M sings: “Stand tall and rise above it all.”

Amelie keeps going, “Design is more than chairs It’s analogue and dialogue. We must speak about communications, systems, complexity – design is more than just objects. Critical design enhances change as it could or should be in the 21st century.” We agree modernism has gone. What awaits? Existential concerns aside, it’s 25 degrees outside. Hot, distractingly so, even for northern Spain, in late autumn. Where will we go? “Stand tall so tall I’ll be tall,” ends the statuesque Taali M to applause.

The Basque Country is famous for its nationalistic stance, but hosting Making Africa A Continent of Contemporary Design demonstrates its global outlook. The exhibition explores what’s beyond modernism while liberating visitors from Western myopia. Africa. The continent with a vision attached. And we’re back. Late spring 2026. Ruth Asawa Retrospective is the headlining exhibition curated by Thomas Weisel, Chief Curator of San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, in collaboration with Geaninne Gutiérrez-Guimarães, Curator of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. Works include looped wire sculptures, paper folds and sketches by the American artist renowned for making ordinary things special.

The Guggenheim Museum is aging well in physicality and popularity. On a Tuesday morning the public is queuing up the steps for the 10am opening. Victor Hugo was right about the allure of the Basque Country. And that was before Arata, Louise, Norman, Santiago, Zaha and most of all Frank left their mark on the cityscape.

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The Rooftop + The Artist Grand Hotel of Art Bilbao

Gabions Galore

Bookending (a favourite verb) the day with the upper echelons of international society (“global elite” is now too tarred a term) on The Rooftop of The Artist Grand Hotel of Art is one way to upgrade an otherwise meagre existence. It’s impossible to escape art in Bilbao so one might as well sit in it and on it. Or possibly even be it. Plus The Rooftop has the best view of the glittering titanium carapace (a favourite noun) of the Guggenheim Museum. Artist Javier Mariscal is the force behind the concept, the name behind it all. His 26 metre high sculpture Fossil Cypress, a gabion needle of 86,432 river stones, pierces the void of the full height atrium. A stepped flow of water at the base of the sculpture is a reminder of the origin of the found objects.

Sunrise: Desayuno Breakfast is all about topping up on conalbumin. Sunset: Huevos Fritos con Caviar keeps it local. El Bulli trained Executive Chef Abel Corral creates art on a plate (a cliché that rings true in this instance). The Rooftop reinforces the art of living as an achievable reality. Vacation as installation.

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WOW!house 2026 + Design Centre Chelsea Harbour London

Heaven’s in the Detail

Chelsea is synonymous with a great school (Chelsea Academy), a fab hotel (Chelsea Harbour Hotel) and of course an international design hub (Design Centre Chelsea Harbour). The latter plays host to WOW!house once again this year. This portmanteau with a sandwiched exclamation mark is back with aplomb. Despite being only five years old, WOW!house is already a firm fixture of The Season, betwixt the Chelsea Flower Show (more Chelsea) and Royal Ascot.

“London is leading the design world,” fashion powerhouse Dame Mary Martin believes, “and Chelsea is the microcosm of the creative Capital. Studios like The Bomb Factory Art Foundation on Lots Road near Chelsea Academy are exploding with originality. The terrace of the Chelsea Harbour Hotel is one of my favourite places for enjoying a cocktail in between shows.” Her eponymous brand Mary Martin London is now one of the hottest names in international haute couture.

Following the Ralph Lauren pre party (where blue and white are the new black) Darren Price, Director of Adam Architecture, introduces the reconfigured Size Group Façade: “I enjoyed talking to you last year about the original design. I wanted to play with the architecture and remodel it just as one might evolve a design in the real world. The central portico has been expanded either side to create a loggia. This provides a three dimensional experience for visitors.” His oeuvre ranges from restoring country houses to delivering complex interior packages with many projects involving Listed Buildings.

“I took the principles of early Georgian architecture,” Darren says, “and fast forwarded to the Regency period of Soane. I have not created a historical artefact: this structure demonstrates that classical design can be appropriate for contemporary settings.” He also designed the standalone Hector Finch Garden Folly which complements The Size Group Façade but takes on an apropos whimsical air with a tented roof. Darren concludes, “This folly was conceived as a moment of theatre and discovery!”

WOW!house 2026WOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house Design Centre Chelsea HarbourWOW!house

Enass Mahmoud, Founder and Creative Director of Studio Enass, designed the interior of the Hector Finch Garden Folly. She advises, “It’s a room evoking the escapism of an island getaway. At the heart of my work is storytelling. Here, I am the client envisioning a tranquil yet indulgent retreat designed for intimate joyful moments.” A shellwork frieze and scallop shell light pendent are breezy touches reflecting faraway places against the grounded richness of the gemstone red silk wallcovering.

Through the loggia lies Francis Sultana’s impressive Entrance Hall which leads into Róisín Lafferty’s immersive Shepel Library and onto the luxurious Lalique Home Bar designed by Chara Ghandi, Founder and Director of Elicyon. Chara gives a tour of this intimate 20 square metre space: “The bar is a collaboration with our sponsor Lalique. There are Lalique pieces dating from 1926 to 2026 incorporated into the interior. We have designed hidden compartments in the timber wall panelling which open to reveal more Lalique. It’s at once serene and spirited.” Even the stools have tiny pieces from the French crystal house embedded in their fabric covering.

She says, “This is a room that celebrates the pleasure of unveiling. It’s a journey for the curious. Luxury here is about precision, comfort and atmosphere rather than spectacle. We wanted the space to feel intimate and indulgent. The design presents Lalique through a crisp contemporary lens. “Rebecca Larn, Creative Director of Elicyon, adds, “Hosting is back at the forefront!” And Frederick Fischer, Managing Director of Lalique observes, “Crystal brings light, depth and surprise to any interior. The bar is a perfect setting for Lalique to shine in a modern context.”

Enass Mahmoud, Founder and Creative Director of Studio Enass, designed the interior of the Garden Folly. She advises, “It’s a room evoking the escapism of an island getaway. At the heart of my work is storytelling. Here, I am the client envisioning a tranquil yet indulgent retreat designed for intimate joyful moments.” A shellwork frieze and scallop shell light pendent are breezy touches reflecting faraway places against the grounded richness of the gemstone red silk wallcovering.

It’s Martin Kemp Design’s first show at the Design Centre Chelsea Harbour. The Parlour has plenty of wow factor! Founder and Managing Director Martin explains, “This room was conceived as a response to the immediacy of contemporary life – it rejects the idea of a single focal point. Instead, The Parlour unfolds as a sequence of layered moments. Many of the pieces in this circular space are from Avenue, a new furniture brand by Martin Kemp Design.” He was formerly Creative Director of the ultra luxury developer Candy and Candy. His current clientele is equally high end and international, from Monaco to Mumbai to Mayfair.

Whether George Smith’s “human sized dog bed” for the Russell Sage Studio or the dog bed in Misia for Casamance Group Bedroom Suite by Henri Fitzwilliam-Lay or the 55 lacquered “wall boxes” of the Benjamin Moore Minhwa Salon by Young Huh, this year’s WOW!house – all 600 square metres – is about lavish attention to detail. And what’s next for Darren Price’s Size Group Façade? Perhaps Vanbrughian vermiculated voussoirs for WOW!house 2027? As last seen at The Drama of Architecture exhibition on the distinguished wine merchant turned playwright turned architect held at Sir John Soane’s Museum, Holborn.

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Donostia San Sebastián + Maitasuna

Hot Girls’ Spring

Eneko Goia Laso is a Spanish politician of the Basque Nationalist Party. He was elected to the City Council of San Sebastián in 2011 as the party’s leader, and was Mayor from 2015 to 2025. He says, “Donostia San Sebastián is renowned worldwide for its very special charm. It’s a different type of city: strikingly beautiful, packed with contrasts, traditional yet firmly embracing the future, while always maintaining that cosmopolitan ambiance that has characterised it through the annals of history.”

He finishes, “Due to its proximity to France and to having been the European nobility’s preferred holiday destination down the years, the Capital of Gipuzkoa certainly exudes an international air. It’s a city where visitors feel privileged to have had the smarts to pick this magical place as their holiday destination. At the seaside yet close to the mountains, it combines world class culture, exceptional cuisine and breathtaking architecture to offer a truly unique experience for all!”

The city hasn’t looked back since Queen Regent Maria Cristina selected it as her summer holiday destination following the death of her husband King Alfonso XII in 1885. She transferred the whole court temporarily each year to Miramar Palace which is perched on the Pico del Loro overlooking La Concha Bay, set in a landscape designed by Pierre Ducasse. Two years later a casino was built for the royal holidaymakers. Parks, courses for horses (Zubieta) and cars (Lasarte) and a golf course would follow. It’s where all the big hitters are headed this spring.

Higher again than Miramar Palace is Satrústegui Palace. The former is (brick and timber) Queen Anne meets Tudor; the latter, (stone) castellated Adam. Their share of Albion essence is not coincidental: English architect Ralph Selden Wornum contemporaneously designed both palaces. Satrústegui Palace was the summer residence of diplomat Joaquín Marcos de Satrústegui. Plans are afoot to convert it into a boutique hotel.

A sign in the garden of Miramar Palace helpfully sets out: “After the death of King Alfonso XIII in Rome in 1941, the estate was conjointly inherited by his four living children, Jaime, Beatriz, Cristina and Juan, all of whom lived in exile. In 1958 the property was split: the palace and gardens were passed to Prince Juan, Count of Barcelona. The other three siblings inherited the rest of the estate and sold this land to developers.” Skipping a few sentences, it transpires that after a conservation campaign, the City Council purchased the house and garden in 1972.

Iñaki Egaña writes in A Brief History of the Basque Country, 2016, “The Basque language, Euskara in Basque and Euskera in Spanish, is spoken by the people who have always inhabited the shores of the Cantabrian Sea and both sides of the Pyrenees. The expression Pays Basque has been used in France since at least 1710 to refer to the Basque Country, and the German traveller and statesman Wilhelm von Humboldt contributed greatly to the spread of the name.” The Basque language is unique; nobody knows where it originated. The 20th century dictator Francisco Franco banned Basque.

There are seven Basque provinces: Biscay Bizkaia (the Capital being Bilbao), Guipúzcoa Gipuzkoa (Donostia San Sebastián) and Labourd Lapurdi (Bayonne) all share Atlantic coastline. Álava Araba (Vitoria-Gasteiz), Navarre Nafarroa (Pamplona- Iruñea), Lower Navarre Behe Nafarroa (populated with villages) and Soule Zuberoa (Mauléon-Licharre) are all inland. The French Northern Basque Country includes Labourd Lapurdi, Lower Navarre Behe Nafarroa and Soule Zuberoa. The Spanish Southern Basque Country includes Álava Araba, Biscay Bizkaia, Guipúzcoa Gipuzkoa and Navarre Nafarroa. Easy. The million inhabitants of Greater Bilbao make up one third of the Basque Country population. San Sebastián’s headcount is nearly 200,000.

The knowledgeable Mila Caro of Devour Tours leads visitors around Old Town on a pints and pintxos evening. “In pintxo bars we stand to eat and drink: there are no tables, no reservations. The drain below the counter is for mussel shells. Bar owners like to see dozens of discarded shells at the end of a night. It’s a sign business is good! Basque cider was considered nutritious. It’s sour and dry and was good for sailors’ scurvy. San Sebastián cheesecake is creamy with no crust. It’s not sweet like American cheesecake. That bar 1813 is named after the year when the British army burnt the city after defeating the French troops who had occupied here for several years. This street is named 31 de Agosto after the exact date of the fire: it was the only street to survive the fire.”

“We’re now in Plaza de la Constitución which is the very heart of the Old Town. If you look up you can see numbers over the doors that open off the long rows of balconies on the upper floors. The flats were originally owned by the City Council and were leased out to members of the public for watching big events held on the plaza. The tenants had to agree to their sitting rooms being leased out every so often!”

“The foodie revolution of San Sebastián came about with the Gang of 12, a group of Basque chefs led by Juan Mari Arzak and Pedro Subijana in the 1970s. There are now three Basque restaurants with three Michelin stars and a total of 19 stars in the city. My brother’s restaurant Zelai Txiki received a Green Michelin star in 2023.”

“The Gilda is the original Basque pintxo and was created in the 1940s in Bar Casa Vallés. A regular customer named Joaquín Aramburu had the habit of threading the bar’s loose olives, anchovies and pickled peppers onto a single toothpick. At the same time the film Gilda starring Rita Hayworth was released. The film was considered hot and spicy! So is the appetiser and the name stuck. A Gilda these days usually is made up of Manzanilla olives, Cantabrian anchovies, Guindilla peppers and Extra Virgin olive oil. Sometimes sweet blueberry jam is put on top of the salty anchovies. Another local delicacy is black ink squid croquettes. Rioja became very popular in the 19th century. That wine region is a one hour 20 minutes drive from San Sebastián.”

Canapés or rather pintxos for breakfast (Aitana), sunset cocktails (Hotel Londres), a private afternoon boat ride (Ciudad Catamaran), an 800 year old church filled with ecclesiastical artefacts and contemporary art and the world’s largest miniature nativity scene (St Mary’s), two golden strands (Las Concha and Ondarreta), an island lighthouse (Santa Clara), a mountain top statue of Christ (Sacred Heart): Donostia San Sebastián is a city of culture. And partying. It’s almost midnight. The local football team Real Sociedad is playing Atlético Madrid in the final of the Copa del Ray, the Royal Spanish Football Federation’s annual knockout competition.

Blue and white flags are draped from every other balcony. The football colours are everywhere and on everyone. The match is beamed on mega screens throughout the city. It’s almost midnight. It’s a two-two draw. The tension is palpable. Penalties. Three-three. Seconds later the roar of nearly 200,000 fans ricochets across the squares and rockets down the streets, reverberating over the bay. Fireworks explode across the sky. The night is about to really begin.

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The Mulhollands + Ballyscullion Park Book Festival Bellaghy Londonderry

Better Lives

Animal and children’s rights activist Janice Blakley sums up the Saturday, “My love of and belief in the power of the written word was reaffirmed as I sat in awe listening to the authors at Ballyscullion Park Book Festival. A truly wonderful experience and privilege to have been there. To quote Jane Austen, ‘I declare there is no enjoyment like reading’.” Let Ireland’s leading literary festival begin. Celtic Grace musicians serenade arrivals.

Rosalind Mulholland, who owns Ballyscullion Park with her husband Richard, launches the festival, “You come from far and wide, all over Ireland and the UK. It’s just wonderful that you’re here as lovers of books, ideas, poetry, history and storytelling. I’d like to remind us of the power of literature to connect people across generations and borders. I hope you will discover new voices and enjoy inspiring conversations and most importantly leave with a renewed love of books and storytelling and – really most of all – have a wonderful time!”

Ballyscullion Park, a demesne just beyond Bellaghy (best known as the home of Seamus Heaney: a literary and arts centre has opened in the village in honour of the poet) and above Lough Beg in County Londonderry, is both a private home and a wedding venue. It adapts well to the book festival. The main event space is the Marquee in the Walled Garden. The Ringrose Room and Stables Room, smaller spaces, back onto the Walled Garden. The Mulhollands’ son George manages the grounds and accommodation. Their daughter Cordelia looks after social media and events.

Smaller temporary marquees have popped up for the occasion celebrating the finest of Irish food, art and of course books. Cocobros Chocolate is all about colourful temptations. Exquisite cards by floral designer and photographer Suzie Scott (owner of Florestina which specialises in wedding and event flowers) illustrate her floral arrangements shot against a black background with all the depth of Dutch Golden Age still lifes. Louisa Scott Jewellery is inspired by ancient cultures and the natural world. The talented goldsmith and jewellery designer Louisa is Suzie’s daughter. The Secret Bookshelf has decamped from Carrickfergus, County Antrim, for the weekend.

“It is a singular honour to introduce this wonderful woman at this – so far! – fantastic festival,” says Madelaine Keane, Literary Editor of The Sunday Independent. “Jung Chang was born in China in 1952 during the Cultural Revolution. She worked variously as a barefoot doctor, a steelworker and an electrician. She then left for England in 1978, obtaining a degree in linguistics at the University of York. She was the first person from Communist China to receive a doctorate from a British university. Her extraordinary memoir Wild Swans was published in 1991 and sold more than 13 million copies worldwide.”

Madelaine continues, “She went on to write a groundbreaking trilogy of the history of personalities of China including Mao which she wrote with her husband Jon Halliday, the Empress Dowager Cixi and the three Soong sisters. Her books have been unsurprisingly translated into 48 languages and she’s been awarded a CBE for her services to literature and history. Her new memoir Fly, Wild Swans was published last September.”

Jung explains, “After Wild Swans was published in the early 1990s many people have asked me to write a sequel to it but I always thought that there wasn’t enough material to say. And then in 2023 I changed my mind. I was talking to my mother who was very ill in Chengdu in China and I was watching her from the screen of my mobile because I was not able to go and see my mother even at her deathbed because of the books I had written. So obviously I was very sad and I looked at my mother – she was enfeebled by her illness but she was still strong and I thought since the ending of Wild Swans in 1978 more than 40 years had gone by. I wanted to write about our stories along with that of China and to bring those stories up to date.”

Aged 26, Jung passed a national exam for an overseas scholarship but she would not have been able to leave China because her father had spoken out against the Cultural Revolution. Her mother, though, had previously petitioned to the Prime Minister, Zhou Enlai, and secured a paper which didn’t clear her father’s name but stated he shouldn’t be arrested.

Over to Jung, “That note got my father out of prison and my mother foresaw that this piece of paper would be useful for her children in the future. She hid the piece of paper in one of the padded cotton shoes which my grandma had made for herself for her crushed and bound feet. The note stayed there for 11 years. And in 1978 my mother unstitched my grandma’s shoe, took out the piece of paper and gave it to the Reformist Government and that got my father rehabilitated, allowing me to leave the country.”

The only British book Jung read growing up was Oliver Twist. She smiles, “The picture of this starving child Oliver with big eyes wanting more was etched into my head when I was a child! We were allowed to read it because it showed how awful Capitalist society was. Before coming to England, the only foreigners I had talked to were sailors in a south China port. When I was studying English we were sent to practise our English with the sailors. My fellow students and I were eagerly awaiting them in the International Sailors Club. We grabbed them as soon as they came on shore and of course we had no idea what must be on their minds!”

She says, “The sailors had no idea what we were talking about because our textbooks had been written by teachers who’d never met foreigners themselves so they were direct translations of Chinese texts. In those days people used to say in Chinese, ‘Where are you going? Have you eaten?’ So that was the English greeting I learned which I used when I first came to Britain!”

Jung settled in London and would marry the Irish historian and writer Jon Halliday. Writing a book about China was not on her mind. That all changed when her mother visited England for the first time in 1988. “We were walking in Hyde Park one day and she suddenly yelled, ‘Look! Look at that stone!’ It was a flat round stone. She said, ‘That looks just like a millstone.’ A millstone was used to crush baby girls’ feet to produce the three inch golden lilies like my grandma’s. So I asked my mother to tell me more about herself, my grandma, the stories. She stayed with me for six months and by the time she left London I had 60 hours of tape recordings and I started writing Wild Swans. It was my mother who made me a writer. I owe my happy and fulfilled life to my mother.”

Madelaine observes how the love between Jung and her mother “just leaps off the pages”. And: “How deeply symbolic it is that the letter that gave you your freedom was stitched into the shoes which were such a symbol of repression.” Jung responds, “My grandma’s bound feet were also the origin of my urge to write Wild Swans in the first place. My mother’s optimism was not wishful thinking or burying your head in the sand. It was to fight to gain what is that seemingly impossible goal. If you lose that optimism and the hope you might as well give up. My mother never gave up. Her life had many tragic events but her stories were never depressing. I drew a lot of strength from my mother when I came to write Wild Swans and Fly, Wild Swans. My hope is also based on rational analysis and not wishful thinking.”

Communism may be less of a segue and more of a connection of dubious tenuousness, but onto Benjamin Treuhaft in conversation with Lynsy Spence, author and founder of The Mitford Society. Ben is the son of Jessica “Decca” Mitford, one of the six Mitford sisters who fuelled 20th century newsreels with gallons of glamour and considerable controversy. Getting into festival spirit, his left big toenail is painted in the national colours of Cuba; his right, China. Decca was the Communist Mitford. Ben is a renowned piano tuner and piano builder. In 1995 he set up a charitable enterprise to send 237 pianos to music schools in Cuba to replace Soviet made instruments ravaged by the tropical climate.

“We didn’t talk much about Decca’s family history until she started getting her fame when she wrote her autobiography Hons and Rebels,” says Ben. “I was about 11 or 12. Then the whole Mitford thing started coming out of the woodwork. I think my mum had been trying to avoid it. She was too busy being a Red! There was a lot of work to do in McCarthyite US at that time.”

He recalls, “None of my aunts forgave Decca for marrying a Jewish lawyer. He wasn’t one of them and didn’t want to be one of them. But mum and Debo loved each other and had respect for one another.” The Communist and the Duchess. The youngest of the sisters, Debo would marry the 11th Duke of Devonshire and transform Chatsworth in Derbyshire into a leading heritage attraction. Ben finishes, “Now all these books are coming out. It’s so nice to have people writing biographies of one’s mother and aunts. Listening to Jung Chang was so fascinating. I wonder what my mum would think of her?”

Ulster University lecturers Stephen Price and Peter McMulllan lead a lunchtime tour of the Bishop’s Palace ruins deep in the estate woodland. They are armed with digital recreation image boards of the 1787 house built by Frederick Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol and Bishop of Derry. “The Bishop’s Palace,” says Stephen, “had a 107 metre long façade with a domed central rotunda and two curved wings ending in pavilions which housed art galleries. He also laid out the picturesque landscape. The palace was dismantled in 1813.” An ivy clad stretch of one of the wings is all that remains.

Stephen confirms, “This palace was very similar to Ickworth, the Bishop’s house in Suffolk. The controversial image is our view of the oval hall in the centre of the rotunda. There are no extant drawings of the hall and descriptions are disparate and conflicting. All we know is that it had a double helix staircase accessing the two upper floors. The staircase was salvaged and taken to Shane’s Castle in Country Antrim, which was then destroyed in a fire. Rosalind noticed Fortnum and Mason’s shop in London has a good example of a double helix staircase!”

Richard Mulholland’s fascinating talk on the Bishop’s Palace and Ballyscullion Park is more than worth the sprint across the rain soaked lawn to the Stables Room. “The palace was never completed. The Bishop was a wonderful collector: one pavilion had French art; the other, German art. The portico was reused at St George’s Church of Ireland Church in Belfast. Pillars from the palace are now at Portglenone House in County Antrim. The replacement house Ballyscullion Park was built by Admiral Sir Henry Bruce, son of the Bishop’s cousin, in the 1840s. The architect was Sir Charles Lanyon. Ballywalter Park, my first cousin Brian Lord Dunleath’s house, is another Lanyon house. Some of the ceilings in the two houses are virtually identical.”

He continues, “In the 1840s the Mulhollands’ linen factory at Yorkgate in Belfast was the largest in the world. So the Mulhollands wanted to show off and built Ballywalter Park. It had the most wonderful conservatory but in recent years the metal had rotted and the glass was damaged. Pilkington Glass rebuilt the entire conservatory. It is perfect now. At £350,000 it would need to be!”

Richard’s grandparents, Sir Harry and Lady Sheelah Mulholland, bought Ballyscullion in 1938. Riddled with dry rot, they restored the house, added bathrooms and de-Victorianised it. “My grandmother came from Colebrooke Park in County Fermanagh, a simple unfussy house, which probably inspired her to simplify Ballyscullion. The sandstone pillars are very soft and easy to chip so needed to be restored. We wanted to paint the house white but when I sought a grant from Hysterical Buildings as I call Historic Buildings they wanted it painted Antrim Town Hall muddy brown! We didn’t take a grant.”

“Just after my grandparents finished the major restoration, the house and estate were requisitioned by the War Office as a military base. Most big houses in Northern Ireland were taken over during World War II. It was a small camp here of 80 soldiers. All the furniture was put into storage. At first Ballyscullion was used by the British army who didn’t look after it but then it was occupied by the Americans who were brilliant.” Richard has a literary lineage link: he’s a direct descendent of Jane Austen’s brother Edward Knight.

Mid Saturday afternoon the accomplished novelist from Omagh in County Tyrone, Martina Devlin, chats with the American author, journalist – and occasional provocateur! – Lionel Shriver. Ballyscullion doesn’t pull punches but does pull big names. Martina opens with, “A previous mayor of New York City floated this as an idea. In the midst of a housing crisis New Yorkers were to be offered money to host migrants. Lionel takes this as the premise for her latest novel.”

Lionel reveals, “This novel is trying to go at the issue of immigration in a way I find very few or perhaps no other fiction writers tend to do which means I am not just inevitably sympathetic with the plight of the immigrants themselves but I am also sympathetic with the plight of the host population. There are reasons why fiction writers are drawn to telling the story of the immigrant – the conventional quest structure, the immigrant is on a journey facing obstacles, has a goal, is probably disadvantaged in comparison to the host population. It’s a great setup – that’s exactly the sort of thing you want in your heroes.”

“Whereas the host population isn’t going anywhere by definition. It just sits there; it doesn’t seem to have a story. The people who are experiencing a large number of visitors are understood to be the backdrop. They’re either going to be facilitators accommodating newcomers or they’re just going to be bigots. The understanding is these are not important people, they are not the story. I think actually the experience of having your culture transformed before your eyes and inhabited by completely different people who were not invited – I think that is the story. It’s full of moral challenges.”

Lionel sees immigration as a definitive issue and that’s why she’s drawn to it: “Although I would qualify this novel has much more dimension than that. It is not meant to be restrictionist propaganda. I think it’s a book that represents all sides of the immigration debate. It doesn’t approach it as morally simplistic. I think everyone gets a comeuppance in this book including the highly progressive liberal altruistic mother who eventually brings considerable heartache on her family.”

“In some ways this book speaks for the host population but is also very critical because the host population is passive allowing this to happen whereas the immigrants in this book are represented as active,” she insists. “They’re going out and getting what they want. They want what you have and they’re going to get it. In a way the author is quite admiring of this and critical of people who allow themselves to be run roughshod over and give away their resources.”

Lionel believes, “Collectively Western civilisation is the most considerable civilisation the world has ever seen. It has made more advances in every field than any civilisation has ever made. It is something to be proud of but not to take credit for and I think that’s important. It’s something to feel an honour to inherit and an honour to transfer to another generation.” She lived in Belfast for 10 years from 1987.

Martina asks: “The title is A Better Life – for whom?” Lionel replies, “That’s the question. It’s a simple title. It is a resonant expression because we are constantly being told that immigrants are coming into our countries simply because they want a better life. The truth is everything we do in life is motivated to make our lives better. Just because someone wants something is it a good enough reason to give it to them?”

“To provoke a response in the reader is much better than putting them to sleep. A lot of books I encounter are genuinely soporific.” Lionel is in the ring. “I am not going to refuse to write about a subject because I am afraid of offending people. I am also always looking out for topics, plots, people, positions, perspectives that other people are not writing. It doesn’t make any sense for me to write another novel that illustrates that racism is bad. It doesn’t mean that I think racism is good but we don’t need that book right now. I like to write something that fills a gap about a subject that, sometimes for very good reason, no one else is writing about.”

“What do you mean by good reason?” questions Martina. The response: “It seems dangerous. It’s going to get you into trouble. It’s going to have the critics denouncing you. There have been leftwing critics who hate this book and that means I must have done something right. Although believe it or not I am a registered Democrat!”

Martina ends, “To wrap up – and remind everyone this is a literary festival! – do you have a tip for struggling writers?” The diminutive intellectual colossus leans forward: “I think the most important thing is to write whatever you damn well please and don’t worry about what other people think of you. Fearful writing is boring writing. Younger generations have been cowed so don’t allow yourself to be cowed. Don’t think you have to obey the rules. You can break all the rules you want as long as you do it with brio.” Nobody falls asleep during Ballyscullion talks.

Dr Charlotte Blease, who will give a talk the next day on her new book Dr Bot: Why Doctors Can Fail Us and How AI Could Save Lives, sums up the Sunday, “Ballyscullion Park Book Festival has a very eclectic mix of people and presentations: it’s a charming festival and day out. This event is extra special because of the warmth of the Mulhollands. This is the third year the family have opened their home and estate to host international writers. It’s the most memorable book event I’ve attended.” And so concludes Ireland’s leading literary festival for another year.

For book festival virgins and first timers to Ballyscullion Park, it’s easy to fall in love with both the event and the venue. Lionel Shriver declares in Abominations (2024) “falling in love twice is a lot of times”.

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Hôtel du Palais + La Rotunde Restaurant Biarritz

If You Know You Know

It’s the best address in town: One Avenue de l’Impératrice. Well, if it was good enough for Romy Schneider (performing in Tournage de La Banquiere 1980); Ernest Hemingway (Il passe l’ete 1959 a sillonner l’Espagne a bord de sa vielle Lancia suivant l’itineraire tauromachique du Mano à Mano de Luis Miguel Dominguin et d’Antonio Ordonex, preparant ainsi un livre sur la rivalite des deux plus grands Matadors de l’epoque. Sur la route, venant du Havre, Hemingway et sa femme Mary s’arreterent a Biarritz a L’Hôtel du Palais), Wallis Duchess of Windsor and Edward Duke of Windsor (inauguration of Biarritz Polo Grounds 1951) …

Dame Rosalind Savill, the relaunching Director of The Wallace Collection London, once quipped, “I hate the term ‘hidden gem’!” Hôtel du Palais, by anyone’s standards, isn’t a hidden gem. It’s the crown on the coast. The tiara atop the hill. Hidden gem, low key, undiscovered: none of these descriptions have ever been used for the finest hotel in Basque Country. The names of the salons of Hôtel du Palais recall its royal connections: Alphonse XIII, Edouard VII, Impérial, Mathilde. Second Empire style prevails throughout the hectarage of splendour.

A timber marquetry surfboard in the entrance hall crafted by artist Joël Roux is a reminder Biarritz is the capital of European surf. A hand painted surfboard in La Rotunde restaurant depicting the Emperor and Empress suggests deep down they really wanted to do more than fight wars and build palaces. Of course, they were dreaming of riding the waves fantastic.

The homogeneity of the architecture is deceiving, especially when viewed through a blaze of buddlejas. The current giant number three footprint is the outcome of several distinct building sprees. Architect Hippolyte Durand was appointed in 1854 to design a villa for the Empress Eugénie. Some things don’t change in the development industry: he was sacked the following year and replaced by the 27 year old Louis-Auguste Couvrechef. Three years later, Louis-Auguste died and was succeeded by Gabriel-Auguste Anclete. At least a few architects were kept employed. It’s still the best example of Louis the Hooey on the Bay of Biscay, new extensions included.

The words of Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors, echo across the marble halls, “Beautiful décor will always be one of life’s greatest pleasures.” She invented the phrase “shabby chic”. Hôtel du Palais is incroyablement chic.

Breakfast at the top table – centrally positioned in the vast semicircle that is La Rotunde to watch the crashing splashing arc of Atlantic – makes life worth living. Service à la Russe and buffet cater for the best of both worlds. Local delicacies include Gâteau Basque à la Cerise and Gâteau Basque à la Crème as well as Ossau Iraty and Bleu des Basques cheeses. A rainbow of juices covers apple, kiwi and spinach; apple, lemon and charcoal; lemon, carrot and orange. Eggs are easy like Friday mornings.

Later, Chef Christopher Scheller will share some epicurean seafood tips: “I love caviar particularly from Aquitaine, the world’s only caviar with Protected Geographical Indication status. We enjoy it Russian style in its purest form or served with ultra fresh peas for a subtle interplay between richness and vegetable sweetness.” He continues, “I’d heard of Banka trout by name but I only really discovered it when I arrived in the region. We cook it in various ways: home smoked in our own smokehouse, confit in fennel infused oil or simply seared on the plancha.” And, “We serve oysters from my friend Joël Dupuch. They can be enjoyed plain during our brunches or lightly grilled over charcoal at our garden parties, simply seasoned with a pinch of crushed Sarawak pepper. A real explosion of flavour.”

Much later, Christopher will share some epicurean vegetable tips: “Courgette flowers are true seasonal delights. We treat them like sweets. Raw and garnished with a delicate spider crab meat in the fining dining restaurant or as tempura in summer, to be savoured overlooking the ocean by the Sunset Pool.” He continues, “I discovered Les Cressonnières d’Aquitaine during my local research. I like to use their watercress in a fine hot cream to accompany scallops or serve it raw in a salad to add a touch of freshness to devilled eggs.” And, “White asparagus is this region’s signature produce. We prepare these Queens of the Sands in every possible way: poached and served with a citrus infused mousseline or pan seared and lightly caramelised with honey.”

Hôtel du Palais Biarritz: fit for an empress. Always.

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Après Demain Restaurant Biarritz + Les Mains

Repas du Siècle 

Service pouvant être compose de: Ail des Ours. Algues. Anchois de Getaria. Anguille. Asperges de la Ferme Henri. Bourgeons de Pin des Landes. Blé. Caviar d’Aquitaine Impérial Petrossian. Céleri. Champignons. Chiperons de St Jean de Luz. Chocolat. Choux. Clémentine. Cochon Kintoa de Pierre Oteiza. Coriandre. Framboise. Fromages. Fruit à Coque. Fruit de la Passion. Fruits de Mer et Crustacés. Groseille. Gin Drouin. Litchi. Moutards. Noix de Coco. Oeuf et Lait de Ferme. Olives. Petit Pois. Piment d’Espelette. Piquillos. Pomme. Poissons selon la criée. Rose. Safran. Sésame. Shiso. Soja. Tequila. Tournesol. Truffe.

We get around the pneumatic galaxy. Paris, London, Barcelona: L’Ambroisie, Core, Lasarte. Three restaurants with three stars. Biarritz. Après Demain. One star, but how it glows. Never has the nod of approval from France’s finest vulcanised rubber factory been more deserved. Such vitality, energy, brightness, floating on daylight until twilight purples the evening. We glide up the steps from stylish Avenue Louis Barthou and sail across the jasmine scented terrace before landing at our table. The décor is reductivist rustic. It’s all about exposure: stone walls, timber suspended ceiling, linen free tables, raw talent. A wealth of artisanal flair contributed to the interior: cabinetmakers Quentin Delion and Adrien Mantel-Brotherwood; floral designer Estelle Ducasse; ceramicist Isabelle Lamourelle; florist Claire Perrin; and knifemaker Christophe Lauduique.Dinner is everything a meal should be: inventive, ingenious, original, unpredictable, zany, crepuscular. The last adjective is possibly venue specific. Our wonderfully well informed waitress explains, “The name of the restaurant is a pun, un jeu de mots. The first restaurant was called Demain so this is literally Après Demain. It also refers to a hand – le main – theme. The name also suggests the next better thing to come – après.” Hands down, the best triple entendre ever! So even the name of this three year old restaurant is avantgarde, a French portmanteau that somehow sneaked into English parlance.Chef Patron Matthias Leuliette tells us, “Today’s dreams will be tomorrow’s realities. We are the day after tomorrow. We want the name of our project to be a promise to support positivity and protective agriculture. More than just organic, we work collaboratively with our suppliers, respecting the land of our children and taking responsibility for their animals. In the spirit of a guesthouse, we want each guest to feel unique, and so we carefully craft your personalised experience in the moment with what nature has provided.” At Après Demain style goes hand in hand with substance.

The sommelier pops €92 Pessac Léognan Château La Louvière 2019 (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon). Experiénce en Nine Temps €105 is a culinary celebration – is that the right word? – of the Seven Deadly Sins. Matthias suggests, “The Seven Deadly Sins are the roots of our desires. Tame them, and you’ll discover not your flaws but your humanity. Each sin, is part of you and all of humanity. But it’s not the sins that define who you are: it’s the choices you make in the face of them.” A stack of cards illustrated by local artist Katang, placed on a petite easel on our table, is an aide memoire.

Our waitress arrives holding a glowing full moon. What sin could this be? A flick of a card reveals: “Greed, avaritae. Greed is the art of keeping everything to yourself. But tonight, who among you will be the greediest? Since, by definition, not everything is meant to be shared, you’ll need to choose or fight for it. It’s up to you and your negotiation skills.” She confirms, “The whole of the moon represents greed!” French band Air plays in the background. Aha! The album Moon Safari.

Matthias elaborates, “For millennia, the moon has guided humanity, lighting up the night and setting the rhythm of our cycles. But did you know it also influences the earth, plants and even wine? Used by winemakers and farmers practising biodynamics, the lunar calendar divides days into four elements: leaf, root, fruit and flower. Each element corresponds to the optimal time to cultivate, harvest or taste in harmony with natural cycles. It’s a balance between earth and sky, a subtle dance orchestrated by the moon. But mankind, in its pride, sometimes seeks to rise above these cycles, dreaming or mastering nature and perhaps even reaching for the moon itself. Tonight, we invite you to explore these lunar influences through a gastronomic experience that connects your plate to the earth and the stars.” Now that we’ve seen it, we’re ready to eat the whole of the moon.Another course, another card: “Anger, ira. The oceans are exhausted. Fish stocks are disappearing. Political silence echoes louder than the waves. Here, anger becomes a dish. Cuttlefish, a sustainable resource, takes centre stage. A scorching marine broth is poured over lava stone. It shivers, cracks, evaporates, like a boiling sea. This hotpot is an echo of warming waters, pollution, depletion of life. Anger does not ask for forgiveness: it compels.” A wildly imaginative consommé bubbles in front of us.

The sommelier pops €45 Bergerac Barouillet 2024 (Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Sémillon, Chenin, Muscadelle). Perhaps it was the Louvière or perhaps it is the Bergerac but the sins are sliding into a blur. We all get a different plate for the next course. Focus; card time: “Envy, invidia. Here, every plate is different. You have yours, but the other one catches your eye. Is it better? Prettier? Envy creeps in without warning – subtle, sharp, irresistible. One glance, and doubt is born. Envy is a game. And here, we play it with every service, that silent game between curiosity and frustration.” Earphones accompany this course: Johnny Halliday is singing his 1986 hit song l’Envie, “Qu’on me donne l’obscurité puis la lumière …”Bread stick trees with beetroot leaves, sorrel ice cream, caviar pudding, lacto fermented white asparagus, samphire and almond, seaweed brioche, watercress cream of garlic chives, lime and gin foam, a Sonia Rykiel inspired duck sorbet … Such pride in the presentation: the kitchen clearly doesn’t suffer fools or slothfulness. One other sin springs to mind during our ninth course. Card time: “Gluttony, gula. That moment when reason fades, giving way to the pleasure of tasting everything. Often seen as excess, it is above all a tribute to the joy of savouring life. Inspired by abundance and the dreams of a child before a table overflowing with sweets and comforting dishes, it invites exploration and sharing. Whether it’s a generous seafood platter or a delicate cascade of bite sized treats, gluttony celebrates both indulgence and comfort – and the irresistible urge to try it all.”

Après Après Demain, where will compare?

Categories
Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Town Houses

Miranda de Ebro Basque Country + Architecture

Aristocrazies

Somewhat overshadowed by her coastal big sisters Bilbao and Donostia San Sebastián, inlander Miranda de Ebro is the least known of the Spanish cities of Basque Country. Although with a population of just under 40,000 – on a par with Drogheda in County Louth or Westport in Connecticut – she is at the lower end of urban scale.

The spirit of the place gradually reveals herself on the approach from the railway station to the River Ebro. There are two churches contrasting with one another close to the river. The Church of St Nicolás de Bari is strikingly contemporary with its bright brownish red brick and clean lines highlighted by stone trimmings: the roundness of a giant rosette and blind arches is a counterpoint to the squareness of the belltower. Circa 2005 perhaps?Only six decades out. The church was inaugurated in 1945 and the belltower was completed a decade later. A Romanesque church on the site was destroyed by fire in 1936. The architects were Ramón Aníbal Álvarez and Pablo Cantó Iniesta who belonged to the Group of Spanish Artists and Technicians for the Progress of Contemporary Architecture.Contemporary indeed: from the rationalised exterior to the transept free basilica plan, the Church of St Nicolás de Bari resonates with harmonious modern sensibility. The architects’ vision was brought to fruition by builders Sixto Erquiaga and the Segura-Jaúregui brothers. A banner hanging on the northeast facing Calle San Augustin façade states “Making a path; creating community”.The river bankside Church of the Holy Spirit is 700 metres to the west of the Church of St Nicolás de Bari as the Middle Spotted Woodpecker flies. This charming Romanesque with a Gothic arched entrance door stone building is the oldest place of worship in the city. Badly damaged in 1936 in the Spanish Civil War, the church was restored 36 years later. A Latin cross floorplan contains a single nave.Nestling amidst the rickety charm of the left bank Old Town is the Church of Santa Maria. It was built of salvaged stone in the 16th century Renaissance style. Even the pepper pot shaped bell tower is faced in stone. The layout is formed of three naves of equal length. The church faces tiny Plaza de Santa Maria and sides onto the four metre wide Calle la Cruz and Calle de las Escuelas.

Apolo Theatre backs onto Plaza de Santa Maria. The mustard coloured rendered building was built to the design of Fermín Álamo in 1921. A vertical extension by architect Miguel Verdú Belmonte, completed in 2015, contrasts with the original neoclassical architecture in colour (white) and style (minimalist). Another recent addition to the cityscape is the M Monument designed by local artist José Luis Dufourg Duaso. The 2010 giant 13th letter of the alphabet stands on the Calle del Ferrocarril roundabout. It’s painted in the city’s coat of arm colours: blue, yellow and red.

Perched on Picota Hill on the left bank above the River Ebro, the crumbling Castle of Miranda de Ebro is strategically located in this border region. It was built in medieval times and damaged in the 19th century Carlist Wars. The origins of the city are even older, likely dating from the Roman era. Miranda de Ebro has edge. Miranda de Ebro has grit. Miranda de Ebro has character. And she has the best oriel turret winter gardens imaginable.

Categories
Architecture Art Country Houses Design

The Heylands + The Smyths + The Clementses + Ballintemple House Garvagh Londonderry

Tranquilly Perfect Calm

“It’s never been sold outside the family,” commences Chris Clements. “My cousin inherited the house which has been in the family since the 1700s and he left it to me. We asked the National Trust if they wanted it but they weren’t interested. The Garvagh Historical Society would love to have taken this place over but they couldn’t get any funding. We have a farm in Castlerock and are retiring so have decided to sell to someone who can enjoy looking after it.” Ballintemple House and its 70 hectare estate lie on the edge of the pretty village of Garvagh in the north of County Londonderry.

He shares, “The first ancestor here was my great grandfather times four Rowley Heyland. He leased it from the Bishop of Derry; in those days it was a thatched cottage. It passed to his son Arthur Rowley Heyland and then to his daughter as a dowry and she married my great great grandfather Mitchell Smyth. He was a local minister. Mitchell bought out the lease of the house and built the front Georgian block onto it in the mid to late 18th century. The house then passed to his son Arthur Clements Smyth. He was a Major in the Marines and travelled all over the world.”

“When Arthur was getting old,” Chris continues, “his four daughters had married and his son had emigrated to Canada. My great great grandmother had died so he was on his own. In 1920 he sold Ballintemple to his first cousin Dominick Heyland. So it went from Heyland to Smyth and then back to Heyland again. He left it to his daughter who then left it to my cousin Hugh and that’s how I got it. It’s really a large farmhouse; every generation has bolted on a bit which makes it interesting.”

He adds, “When Dominick Heyland took it on he married a lady called Clara Tilling who was the daughter of Thomas Tilling who owned the London Transport Company. Thomas started the first horse drawn trams in London. At one stage there were 5,000 horses on the go and she pumped money into the place. They built a dairy and bottled their milk here and supplied it locally. They had pedigree pigs too. He died quite young. When the house was being sold by Arthur Clements Smyth all the sisters got various pieces. My grandmother got quite a bit of the furniture which we brought back with us.”As a result, Ballintemple House is a period piece. Time has not stood still though: few houses can boast of an early Georgian drawing room; late Georgian library; Victorianised dining room; bedrooms with early 20th century chimneypieces; and a late 20th century conservatory. Period pieces. Externally, grey walls (stone, roughcast render and pebbledash), grey slated roofs, and green painted window frames and doors visually bind together the various stages of its architectural evolution.A daffodil lined sweep of avenue weaving through woodland bordering a meadow leads to the east facing entrance front. Behold! This is the quintessential Georgian country house. If Sir Charles Brett had lived long enough to write a Buildings of County Londonderry edition, he would have categorised Ballintemple at the upper end of the Middling Sized Houses not quite making Grand Houses, with true Charlie panache and humour. The slight irregularity of the five bays of the later main block hints that this part was stitched into the fabric of an older building. More anon. The yard facing rear elevation is more informal with varying heights and projections. Windows range from two pane casements to two pane sashes to four horizontal pane sashes to a 24 pane sash.The most extraordinary architectural feature of Ballintemple House is its doorcase. Dublin is famous for its Georgian doorcases; rural Ireland, not so much. This country cousin is just as elaborate as anything being photographed by a dozen tourists on Merrion Square. Rather than an urban semicircular fanlight, a gentler elliptical headed fanlight stretches over the original wide timber door with its beaded muntin, four vertical panels and cast iron furniture flanked by panelled jambs and margin paned sidelights. Another departure is instead of the typical Dublin half umbrella spoke glazing bars, Ballintemple’s fanlight is vertically divided. The doorcase was recently fully restored with support from the Irish Georgian Society.

The conservatory overlooks an intimate side garden dominated by a pair of vast cast iron urns. No doubt salvaged from a country house? “My cousin bought them from Kelly’s auction of contents!” says Chris. People of a certain vintage will recall Kelly’s in Portrush, County Antrim, had a rather well known nightclub called Lush. These days, middle aged clubbers can enjoy a slightly more chilled experience at Lush Classical, an annual summer event held in Belfast combining trance DJs and the Ulster Orchestra. Techno strings.The library and dining room open off the powder blue entrance hall. The creamy wallpapered dining room captures the essence of the house’s evolution in one shot: 12 pane Georgian windows, acanthus leaf Victorian plasterwork and a very Art Deco timber chimneypiece. The outline of a doorway shows there was once an enfilade running along the front of the house. A portrait of a dashing military gentleman is in the burgundy library. The subject is Major Arthur Rowley Heyland and he was painted by Chris’s talented wife Chrissy. She based it on a miniature painted in Toulouse after the Battle of the Pyrenees, the only known picture of the war hero. On 17 June 1815, the eve of the Battle of Waterloo, the 34 year old Major wrote to his wife,

“My dear Mary. What I recommend my love in case I fall in the ensuing contest, is that my sons may be educated at the Military College, except Arthur, who is hardly strong enough: the hazards of a military life are considerable, but still it has its pleasures, and it appears to me of no consequence whether a man dies young or old, provided he be employed in fulfilling the duties of the situation he is placed in this world.”“I would wish my son John, whose early disposition has made us both happy, should serve in the Infantry till he is a Lieutenant, and then by money or interest be removed to a Regiment of Light Cavalry. I trust his gentlemanly manner and his gallantry in the field will make his life agreeable. Kyffin might try the Artillery Service and make it an object to be appointed to the Horse Artillery, which he can only hope for by applying himself to the duties of his profession. Alfred must get in a Regiment of Infantry, the 95th for instance, and my young unborn must be guided by his brother John and by your wishes.”

“For yourself, my dearest, kindest Mary, take up your residence in Wales, or elsewhere if you prefer it, but I would advise you, my love, to choose a permanent residence. My daughters, may they cling to their mother and remember her in every particular. My Mary, let the recollection console you that the happiest days of my life have been with your love and affection, and that I die loving only you, and with a fervent hope that our souls may be reunited hereafter and part no more.”“What dear children, my Mary, I leave you. My Marianna, gentlest girl, may God bless you. My Anne, my John, may heaven protect you. My children may you all be happy and may the reflection that your father never in his life swerved from the truth and always acted from the dictates of his conscience, preserve you, virtuous and happy, for without virtue there can be no happiness.”

“My darling Mary I must tell you again how tranquilly I shall die, should it be my fate to fall; we cannot, my own love, die together; one or other must witness the loss of what we love most. Let my children console you, my love, my Mary. My affairs will soon improve and you will have a competency, do not let too refined scruples prevent you taking the usual government allowance for officers’ children and widows. The only regret I shall have in quitting this world will arise from the sorrow it will cause you and your children and my dear Marianne Symes. My mother will feel the loss yet she possesses a kind of resignation to these inevitable events which will soon reconcile her.”“I have no desponding ideas on entering the field, but I cannot help thinking it almost impossible I should escape either wounds or death. My love, I cannot improve the will I have made, everything is left at your disposal. When you can get a sum exceeding £10,000 for my Irish property, I should recommend you to part with it and invest the money, £6,000 at least, in the funds, and the rest in such security as may be unexceptionable. You must tell my dear brother that I expect he will guard and protect you, and I trust he will return safe to his home.”

The following day, Mary Heyland was widowed.

“That gentleman was my great great great grandfather,” Chris explains. “Arthur was very much an action man. He was born in Belfast and joined the army, becoming a Major of the 40th Regiment. He was court marshalled because one of his senior officers hit one of the soldiers. He was put on a charge for the offence which was pretty unheard of: you did not put a commanding officer on a charge. It was upheld though and he was put on half pay. But he rejoined the army when he heard Napoléon escaped from Elba Island. At Waterloo he had his hat shot then his horse shot from underneath him. His sword was then shattered and on the fourth go he was killed. Arthur was buried out on the battlefield. He died young.”Major Arthur Rowley Heyland’s son Kyffin obeyed his father’s last wish and attended Sandhurst Military College before becoming a Captain in the 25th Regiment. Kyffin moved to British Guyana in 1831 to serve as a magistrate. He settled with his wife Ann and their three children in Georgetown, the capital of the colony. A family history reports, “Another child was on the way when Kyffin took ill. He was taken to Barbados where the climate was considered much healthier. There, Kyffin died the day before his 35th birthday.” Kyffin’s pregnant widow Ann wrote from Georgetown to her widowed mother-in-law Mary on 31 May 1843,“My dear Mama. I hope you will in this time of deep affliction allow me to address you. I have today received your letter to Kyffin in answer to the one of mine saying a favourable change had taken place. I dread, indeed am certain, that the intelligence of his departure from this world will reach you before one I wrote on 19 or 20 March to Kyffin’s sister Ann telling her of the rapid change that had taken place for the worse.”

“My dearest, beloved husband! It was in God’s appointed time. Oh, the perfect calm that reigned in his final withdrawal of his thoughts from this world and a firm hope in our Saviour, would have been his. As it is he always appears in my remembrance in this state of happiness and we have reason to hope that he is now and forever happy. To tell you that I feel desolate and that each day increases the knowledge of my loss of kind, cheerful affection and solicitude and to remind me more fully of my bereavement is sating little, but I bow with submission to the will of Him who thought it right to afflict me.”

There is an extraordinary looking brass lock on the entrance door with an equally extraordinary provenance. “Major Arthur Rowley Heyland’s son Alfred Heyland also joined the army and fought at Crimea He lost his arm and was nursed back to health in Florence Nightingale’s hospital,” notes Chris. “Engraved on the lock is, ‘Taken From The Hospital at Sebastopol Lieutenant Colonel Heyland 95th Regiment 8 September 1855’. Everyone has visions of the one armed gentleman leaving the hospital with this lock under his good arm!”Leading off the library, the deep green drawing room has a pair of tall windows gracefully skirting the floor. A sketch of Castleroe Castle hangs on the wall. The family history states, “Dominick Heyland came to Londonderry from England in 1611, either as a settler or with a garrison. The old castle of Castleroe was built in the 14th century. Hugh O’Neill, the Earl of Tyrone, was wed and spent his honeymoon there in the time of Elizabeth I. It was replaced by a fine new Plantation castle, also called Castleroe, 45 feet long with stone walls 32 inches think. The castle stood on a commanding eminence above the Bann River. The Heylands continued to occupy Castleroe until Rowley Heyland demolished it in 1767, so the story goes, to economise on the window tax. The family lived at Gortnamoyah for a while, then Rowley rented and later bought a Plantation style house in Garvagh. Ballintemple has been home to the Heylands to this very day. It had been built originally in the early 17th century and was later added onto several times.”Another picture in the drawing room is the earliest extant illustration of Ballintemple House. This watercolour clearly shows the bowed wing which contains the current drawing room. Attached to the bow is a single storey block where the main house now stands. The single storey block has a doorcase not dissimilar to the current one. Could it have been salvaged from the earlier house? The bow wing is not an addition to the main house as the Listing suggests. It predates the main house.The Ordnance Survey Memoirs of Ireland, Parishes of County Londonderry, 1830 to 1840, provide a description of Ballintemple: “The cottage is partly half circle, thatched and stands one storey. There is a large range of the dwelling attached to the back part of the cottage. It is also thatched and stands partly two storeys. There is a good fruit and vegetable garden enclosed by a quickset hedge. The demesne consists of about 30 acres and well enclosed with quickset hedges and iron gates. The demesne is also improved by plantations of various kinds of forest trees. The cottage stands on an eminence over a large glen and river and commands a delightful prospect of the neighbouring hills.”

Heading back into the depth of the house beyond the entrance hall, Chris concludes, “We call this the Corridor to Nowhere! This passageway used to lead into more rooms but in the 1970s a wing was demolished.” A kitchen and a pantry and lots of other nooks and crannies fill the back of the house. The seaweed green staircase hall in the centre of this 560 square metre house is the most Victorian interior. A tall arch headed stained glass window, internal peephole windows, roof glazing, tongue and groove panelling, encaustic floor tiles, rifles and taxidermy create a baronial appearance. A travel trunk with Earl of Leitrim stamped on it is a reminder of an aristocratic family connection. A very early electrics board attached to the landing wall shows how previous owners kept up with modern technology. Four bright and airy bedrooms – three with floor touching windows, all with head space entering the eaves – are spread across the first floor. Two further bedrooms, one originally for three servants, are on mezzanine levels.

A new chapter awaits the beautiful and unique Ballintemple House.

Categories
Architecture Art Design Developers Hotels Luxury People Town Houses

Bishop’s Palace Gardens + East Walls Hotel Chichester West Sussex

A Vapour That Appeareth

Black Mulberry Blue Colorado Spruce Cabbage Palm Cedar Deodar Chitalpa Copper Beach Cotoneaster Dawn Redwood Dogwood Eucryphia Evergreen Magnolia Fastigata Beech Fig Tree Flowering Cherry Flowering Crabapple Green Beech Handkerchief Tree Hawthorn Holm Oak Honey Locust Hornbeam Hybrid Elm Hybrid Lime Indian Rain Tree Italian Cypress Irish Yew Japanese Hackberry Japanese Red Cedar Judas Tree Laburnum Liquid Ambar Loquat Magnolia North American Indian Bean Tree Persian Ironwood Purple Maple Purple Sycamore Rowan Quince Red Leaved Prunus Sweet Chestnut Trachycarpus Palm Tibetan Cherry Tulip Tree Tupelo Variegated Sycamore Wellingtonia Redwood Wollemi Pine Yellow Buckeye.

Such is the arboretum that is the Bishop’s Palace Gardens of Chichester.

Day dancing to Constant Craving, Don’t Speak, Gloria, Music Box Dancer … in the voluted and cartouche’d and scrolled pedimented city that has a bar called The Ghost at the Feast and a street named Little London and a hotel called East Walls run by Jorge Kloppenburg and Anywhere Thompson. There’s a lot to unpick and unpack. “When there’s a challenge I say bring it on,” declares Anywhere, “and with faith you can do anything. We’ve expanded our chilli farm in Zimbabwe to 65 hectares. Here in Chichester we shop several times a week in the local farmers’ market. Everything is fresh and in season in our hotel. We only serve strawberries in July and August. We specially source Finger Post white wine and Vista Plata red wine for guests.”

Chichester CathedralChichester CathedralChichester CathedralChichesterChichesterChichesterChichesterChichesterChichesterEast Walls Hotel ChichesterEast Walls Hotel ChichesterAnywhere has three degrees. She seeks to be a role model for young women like her daughters, “I was working 40 to 60 hours a week and studying 40 hours a week. That’s how I achieved those degrees and I was running other things in the background. I want to be a voice and I will speak up no matter what it takes. My voice may not be heard today but it will resonate in time. Your colour does not and should not matter. What matters is in the inside.” She puts her beliefs into practice: the chilli farm provides employment for dozens of families and helps fund schooling.Her foundation degree was in physiology. “We were introduced to a morgue where I had to dissect a body,” Anywhere explains. “It’s about studying how organs, tissues and cells work together to maintain health. Then I did a biomedical science degree for four years. You learn about so much such as oxidative stress and how it is involved in age related conditions. Portsmouth University where I studied was the first in the country to introduce biomedical science. It’s known all over the world and so they invited me to specialise in clinical pathology. I now practise this medical specialty which focuses on diagnosing, treating and preventing diseases through analysing bodily fluids, cells and tissues.”

Nothing is a chimera to Anywhere.

Categories
Architecture Art Design Developers Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

Muse Restaurant Belgravia London + Six Course Tasting Menu

We Are Amused

SupperClub Middle East is the world’s premium culinary and lifestyle concierge as seen on Travel Markets, UA News 247, Business News, Gulf News etcetera. Established in UAE in 2020, three years later SupperClub expanded into Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman and Saudi Arabia. Egypt, Jordan, Pakistan, South Africa and Turkey all then came on board. In 2026, the company now has a strong presence in Australia, Canada, France, Italy, Malaysia, Singapore, USA and UK. Global expansion continues at pace.

How does it work? Members access the SupperClub app and view offers in their region of choice, place a booking request, the selected venue receives an email, and the members pay at the venue with discount automatically deducted. The WhatsApp concierge is on it like a Bentley bonnet. We’re constantly amazed at the millisecond response rate. It’s such a discreet and seamless service. This is really all about luxury positioning for us higher disposable income individuals. They’ve got it sorted.There are three tiers of membership: Gold, Diamond and Platinum. Booking credit varies while all have unlimited reservations and guests as well as that beloved dedicated WhatsApp concierge. Diamond and Platinum have 12 months access to offers; Gold has six months. Platinum includes a generous restaurant spend. Exclusive offers cover food and beverage; spa and health club access; fitness and wellness packages; and crafted coffee. SupperClub’s growth involves ultra high profile partnerships with Adnoc, Emirates Skywards, HSBC, MasterCard, Samsung and Virgin.

“We’re already in Singapore, we’re already in Thailand, we’re looking at Japan,” co founder Muna Mustafa tells us (her business partner is Mehreen Omar). “The expansion is ongoing! SupperClub is also marketed through the Visa Airport Companion app which just recently launched. So this is really exciting because for the first time with Visa, restaurants are going to get visibility direct to consumers on the app. This ability to communicate directly with guests is another boost of visibility for our restaurants and it’s all about location based marketing.” No codes; real benefits.

As a successful entrepreneur, Muna is willing to share lessons learned. Her key guidelines include leveraging industry insights and market experience. “Our understanding of the hospitality industry, consumers, sector insights and customer pain points was a huge advantage in a crowded marketplace.” She also advocates taking a hands on approach from day one and creating the first proof of concept. “We built a hollow minimum viable product to sell our concept and get business of the ground. Focus on progress not perfection.” Pivoting in response to market dynamics and having a strong hold on performance metrics are two more of Muna’s key guidelines.

Many of the restaurants available through SupperClub are Michelin starred. We discuss the merits of the French grading system with Muna. “I love it!” she confides. “My favourite thing is please tell me in what order I should eat the food so that I don’t have to think of that! It never gets old.” Exactly a century ago the first Michelin Star was awarded (Georges Blanc, Vonnas). But it wasn’t until 1974 that Michelin came to Britain. Meals are judged on five criteria: quality of ingredients; mastery of gastronomic techniques; harmony of flavours; personality and emotion conveyed by the chef in the food; and consistency across both the menu and various visits.

One Michelin star is for a very good restaurant in its own category and worth a stop. Two stars is for excellent cooking and worth a detour. Three stars is for exceptional cuisine and worth a special journey. Musing where to go for Saturday lunch doesn’t take long when we realise Muse is on the SupperClub menu. Tom Aikens’ intimate fine dining experience in an exquisite Belgravia mews was barely open before it snapped up a Michelin star. The Chef has form: at 26 he was the youngest ever British chef to be awarded two Michelin stars (Pied-à-Terre, Fitzrovia).

Interior designer Rebecca Körner’s lively hallmarks – abundance of colour, use of eclecticism and fluidity of shape – are evident in fuchsia walls, contemporary design in a period building, and lagoon shaped mirrors. The same hallmarks could be applied to the most marvellous six course tasting menu – pinkish reddish rhubarb, fusing the best of British and finest of French cuisine ideas, and the curves and curls of Tom’s culinary art. “Ever since childhood I’ve been drawn to the unknown,” says Tom, “the thrill of a surprise, the joy of a guessing game, the kind of moment that leaves you speechless. This menu is shaped by that same spirit. You’ll find hints, clues and personal anecdotes woven throughout, each one echoing a chapter from my life and career.”

Are you ready? Tom gives the lowdown on each course. Forever Picking, “Snacks inspired by the seasons. This stems from my recollections of being in the garden with my mother and picking anything that was edible.” Custard, mullet and Montgomery cheese grand amuse bouches are sprinkled with edible flowers from Nurtured in Norfolk. Making and Breaking, “The comfort and satisfaction I get from bread comes from many memories along the way. To me, it means comfort, satisfaction, sharing, connection, love and of course the joy you receive from the actual making and eating of bread.” Leek, marmite and fermented butters accompany treacle flavoured bread. Just Down the Road: ricotta, blood orange, bitter leaves, “Many miles have been travelled and countless hours have been spent during my ongoing quest to find the very best of British producers to supply Muse with ingredients. We celebrate Old Hall Farm as one of them because it’s just down the road from where I grew up in Norfolk.” Three down three to go.

Never Ending Time: cuttlefish, turnip, shiso, “However simple a dish may look, the time it takes to prepare it can go unnoticed. I would always say savour, don’t devour. Many hours disappear in the preparing, cooking and perfecting of the cuttlefish.” The Love Affair: pigeon, bourguignon, wild garlic, “France is very close to my heart. I have spent years in the middle of France as well as the wine regions of the south and the Capital, slowly but surely developing my love affair with food and France. This continued working alongside a few great French chefs. This is my ode to France.” We swap this for an intriguing pescatarian option. Far Too Tempting: rhubarb, custard, ginger, “A love for sweet and sour stems from some of my favourite childhood treats including old fashioned fruit salad chew sweets, moon dust and sticks of rhubarb picked from my mother’s garden and dipped in sugar. This is nostalgic tastes from the past turned into something deliciously refreshing.” Six of the best. Make that six and a half: chocolate and honeycomb canapés end the lunch with aplomb.

Our inner oenophiles are more than satisfied: as SupperClub guests we’re treated to William Saintot Champagne. The well informed sommelier successfully tempts us with Ktima Gerovassiliou 2024, Greek rather than our usual French Viognier. She explains, “It’s rounder, less aromatic.” Our waitress has done her homework and discusses a mutual interest of architecture and travel. “Malaysia is a must,” she advocates, “you have to visit the scenic Tioman Island and the traditional stone buildings of Sarawak in northwest Borneo.”

Ding-a-ling. Greeted by name at the front door we were whisked up the stairs to sit at the bar opposite five chefs at work. This is intimate dining: six bar stools, two snugs and three two seater tables in a space five metres wide by four metres deep. The downstairs lounge and bar with its impressive lime green Brionvega Radiofonografo (an industrial style music system designed in 1965 by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni) have the same footprint. The top floor of this cute corner mews house contains the restaurant office. A Bibendum maquette takes pride of place on the first floor bar.

“I am a muse, not a mistress,” sings Marianne Faithfull, no mere bauble, in Sliding Through Life on Charm on her masterpiece album Kissin’ Time (2000). “I wonder why the schools don’t teach anything useful nowadays?” she ponders. “Like how to fall from grace and slide with elegance from a pedestal.” Tom Aikens doesn’t need to worry – he continues to slide through life on charm. And running a very good restaurant in its own category which is worth a stop. In our experienced view, Muse is worth a detour. Or even a special journey.

And now for another Borneo. We are delighted that the British Government’s Office for Place has chosen us as one of the main sources for its publication International Design Codes (2024). This guide for local authorities and property developers uses case studies to provide lessons for new schemes and districts. One of the case studies is square kilometres ahead of the rest: our Amsterdam favourite, Borneo Sporenburg.

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Architecture Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Lissan House Cookstown Tyrone + Mary Martin London + Janice Blakley

Jean Pull

“The killing of Cecil was sickening, he was an iconic lion … Mary’s creations are breathtaking and to model this dress is a great honour,” mourned the headline of the 21 November 2018 Belfast Telegraph. Journalist Leona O’Neill reported, “When Cecil the lion was shot and killed in Zimbabwe by American millionaire dentist Walter Palmer in the summer of 2015, it sparked worldwide condemnation. Many took to social media to vent their fury but London fashion designer Mary Martin went one step further and channelled her anger over the senseless death into creating a stunning dress that was then modelled by a Northern Irish animal rights activist.”

Janice Blakley is Chair of Grovehill Animal Trust, a cat and dog shelter in rural County Tyrone. Mary Martin established her eponymous fashion empire based in London over a decade ago. Lissan House outside Cookstown in County Tyrone isn’t the most likely place for these two worlds to collide but there’s a continuity of female power history: its last owner Hazel Dolling kept the place going singlehandedly and set up a Trust to open it to the public after the death. Oh, and the house is ridiculously photogenic – the atmosphere seeps into the photographs.

“It’s a very intricate design full of symbolism like all my dresses,” explains Mary. “Layers of black tulle around the neck and shoulders represent the mane of the lion. I’ve used black sparkling silk for the body of the dress as a reminder of the starlit open sky of Zimbabwe, the last thing Cecil would have seen as he lay dying. God’s creation is intrinsic to all my work.” Mary is well versed in diversity and anti adversity and versatility so she chose a half century year old woman as the ideal 21st century model.

Mary Martin is also heavily involved in charity work. This year alone she has been honoured with the Cultural Impact accolade at the London Fashion Awards and named as one of Africa’s Top 200 Most Influential Women. She was coronated as a Diaspora Queen Mother in Ghana for teaching children to sew and make clothes in schools and orphanages.

The Lion Dress may be one of Mary’s best known creations but why settle for one design when you can have several suitcases full? Once fully ensconced in Lissan House, Janice twirls around a bedroom, runs down a corridor and drinks tea in a ballroom donned in The Floral Dress, The Green Dress, The Black Queen Dress … This story was picked up by a raft of publications and even now social media posts still appear on this memorable meeting of an international fashion artist with an Irish animal rights advocate.

Mary isn’t participating in fashion art; she’s reframing it. Janice isn’t doing a campaign shoot; she’s an anti shooting campaigner.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Design People

Lissan House + Demesne Cookstown Tyrone

Lack of the Axial Aesthetic

Ever since featuring it in the August 1995 edition of Ulster Architect, we have returned to Lissan House on numerous occasions down the years. Over a decade ago, we recalled the contrast between this Irish estate and English equivalents. On a visit to Polesden Lacey near Dorking in Surrey, the lawn had resembled a scene from a Baz Luhrmann movie. In sweltering heat, an alfresco jazz band had serenaded hordes of picnickers, sightseers and sunbathers. Another jaunt was to Calke Abbey near Swarkeston in Derbyshire. Once England’s least known country house, even on a misty day the car park was full and the adjacent fields had been turned into an overflow. Tours of the house were timed to avoid overcrowding.

Not so Lissan. While across the water, brown sign hunters in their Hunters queued to see how the other 0.1 percent had once lived, this County Tyrone estate has been peacefully free of picnickers, sightseers and sunbathers on all our visits. Admittedly both National Trust houses mentioned are close to conurbations while Lissan House is just over five kilometres from Cookstown, population circa 12,000. “I hope you felt privileged to have it all to yourselves,” begins Nicholas Groves-Raines. His architectural practice was responsible for the restoration of the house. “Lissan is a hidden, secret place and that is part of its great charm. It is well off the main tourist routes, the M1 and M2, and away from the tourist centres such as the north coast and Belfast, making it harder to entice visitors. However it is used by the local community and on a number of occasions they have even had to employ overspill parking for events.”

He explains, “The works recently completed at Lissan are only a first phase of a larger scheme to redevelop the demesne and bring all of the derelict buildings back into use as funds allow. In the next few years, it is hoped that Lissan will become a much more lively place whilst retaining its unique character. It would be good to firmly place Lissan House on the tourist map of Northern Ireland.” Lissan had its 15 inches of fame back in 2007 when the last owner fronted a campaign to win funding on the TV programme Restoration. In the end it lost out to Manchester’s Victoria Baths. Again a case of population density influencing situations.

Nicholas decided to specialise in conservation after witnessing the needless destruction of historic town centres and buildings in the name of modernisation. “I am an accredited conservation architect but work on a variety of projects including newbuilds,” he says. Born in County Down in 1940, he trained at Edinburgh College of Art. Nicholas and his Icelandic architect wife Kristín Hannesdóttir have bought and restored a succession of historic properties in the Scottish capital as their family home: Moubray House (1972), Peffermill House (1980), Liberton House (1997) and Andrew Lamb’s House (2010).

“Newhailes, just outside Edinburgh, is like Lissan,” Nicholas continues. “Now run by the National Trust for Scotland as a visitor attraction, it too was used as a family house until recently. Newhailes is a time capsule from the 18th century, having changed little from that period. Like much of Lissan, it remains pretty much as it was when the Trust acquired it. The house hasn’t been ‘restored’ as such, having only had essential repairs carried out to preserve it for the future.”

The exterior of Lissan House has changed fairly radically though. Out, mostly, went the casement windows. The one shade of grey of the walls disappeared. Nicholas relates, “Early photographs show the house had sash and case windows until the late 19th century. A few sashes had been reused in the buildings, so we did have good examples of the original detailing to work from. The modern casements were constructed from inferior quality timber and were not weatherproof due to poor workmanship and rot. They were crudely fitted into the former sash boxes that were still built into the walls. The majority were beyond repair and so a decision had to be made about what form the new windows should take. Sashes were installed to match the originals. The few windows that are not now sashes were mostly part of a late 19th century extension.”

The cement based render also dated from the late 19th century. “It was in poor condition and holding dampness in the walls,” he tell us. “There was ample evidence of the original lime render and off white limewash remaining in sheltered areas, backed up by early photographs that confirmed the house had previously been lighter in colour. The new lime render and limewash allow the walls to breathe and should protect the house for many years to come. Limewash helps to prolong the life of lime render.” The late Dorinda Lady Dunleath once recalled her childhood visits, “I used to go to dancing classes at Lissan. It was always so cold!”

Despite its size – 20 plus bedrooms – Lissan House is provincial rather than grand, almost devoid of architectural ornament. “The Staples family were originally industrialists rather than landed gentry,” says Nicholas. “Early visitors to the house mention a noisy forge nearby where locally mined iron was worked. Lissan started out as a much smaller house that was extended again and again over the centuries as money and tastes dictated. Unlike many mansions it was not built in a single phase to the designs of a professional architect or master builder. It is an accumulation of its varied history.” Lissan House Trustees now look after the house and estate. Several doorcases with shouldered architraves are evidence of a mid 18th century rebuilding. The only celebrity architect associated with Lissan, Davis Ducart, is thought to have designed the lake and Chinoiserie bridge around the same time as the rebuilding.

In her last interview before she died in 2006 aged 82, last in the line Hazel Dolling née Staples explained to us, “The roof at one time rose to a huge peak in the sky and is now double pitched and has given a lot of trouble over the years as there is only one downpipe for all the rainwater. This was quite a common arrangement in old Irish houses. The huge stones in the walls make it very difficult to introduce water pipes. One simply meets solid rock and has to try again. The lime plaster was over two inches thick and was made with horse hair.”

She recalled, “The farmyard was beautifully designed with its fine stables, large barns, byres and turf houses, all well shingled. The turf house is still a great feature of the demesne to this day; all the buildings have fine arches and walnut trees stand in the centre, planted so as to keep the visiting carriage horses cool, as flies disliked the pungent smell of walnut. In good summers they provide great nuts for eating and pickling. The yard and the four and a half acre walled garden were planted with hedges, fruit trees and flower gardens. A fine well shingled summerhouse no longer exists but many years ago someone built huge greenhouses. One was heated for lemons and melons, one for peaches and nectarines, one contained the vines.”

“It is very quiet in the house at night but I know all the creaks,” Hazel shared. “I live in a flat at the very top of the house which has the most wonderful views in every direction. There is a delicious smell of sandalwood or incense at times. When my husband was 90 he used to see all sorts of people sitting in rooms including undertakers in tall stove pipe hats. Visitors talk of people walking around in the night when no one is astir. I have a friend who has seen Lady Kitty here, Sir Thomas Staples’ widow, who made off with all the Lissan Plates. She said she was wearing a beautiful pink silk dress.”

Nicholas ends, “Lissan is unique and contains relics and remnants from all of its past, some of which are probably still hidden.” The house is full of charming quirks. The bow windowed Coachman’s Room joined to the early 19th century Tuscan porch by the arched canopy of the porte cochère. The Long Passage wing – tongue and groove panelled on one side, glazed on the other – linking the first floor of the main block to the stable yard resembling a train carriage suspended midair from the outside. The four storey cylindrical tower housing the secondary (spiral) staircase with a clock over its column of windows. An amber paned bay window bulging out from the Ballroom, a Victorian extension. The lean to glasshouse has long gone.

Hazel talked about the origins of the largest reception room: “My ancestor Sir Thomas, 9th Baronet, was much given to entertaining and for his musical evenings he built the beautiful Ballroom attached to the east of those, overlooking the Lissan Water and the Cascades and the Water Gardens. The Ballroom had Chinese wallpaper, central heating and a sprung floor, and was furnished in black and scarlet. Guests were required to put up with chamber music all day and half the night and this wasn’t to everyone’s taste. Very little of the wallpaper has survived but the huge marble fire marble is still intact and reliefs of Greek horses in a frieze over the massive double doors to the Library and the Blue Room. The room is glazed in orange and white glass, and in late summer, overlooks a steep bank of willow herb which falls down to the river and, in the evening light, fills the whole room with a beautiful rosy pink. The room was originally lit with candles and oil lamps but in 1902 when the water turbine was installed very attractive hanging electric lights with small green shades were bought to hang from the central dome.”

Most extraordinary of all – charming quirkiness taken to a whole new level – is the staircase which spreads horizontally and diagonally and vertically across and sideways and up the cavernous entrance space, with more dog legs than Crufts and more landings than Heathrow. Debo, 11th Duchess of Devonshire, referred to the staircase leading to her private quarters in Chatsworth, Derbyshire, as “a granted moment of privileged access”. The privileged access of Lissan is now shared with the public.

Jeremy Musson wrote up Lissan for Country Life in the 12 March 1998 edition. He states, “Sir Nathaniel Staples’ remarkable folie de grandeur was the vast Piranesian staircase, a dramatic, if eccentric, rearrangement of the 17th century staircase, which rises to the full height of the roof. The sketch of the original staircase by Ponsonby Staples, Sir Nathaniel’s youngest son, shows it coming out into the Hall’s centre, the set of triple balusters on each level were included and imitated in the new staircase, presumably built by an estate carpenter. Some were incorporated into the shelves above the Hall’s chimneypiece. The ceiling of part of the Hall and the Library were redone in pitch pine.”

Hazel for the final time, “The large Parlour, wainscoted in oak, has a very handsome staircase with 604 handmade balusters or banisters as they were called, all slightly different and some even put in upside down. There are 65 steps to the top of the house and five lands. Records refer to pretty closets and good garrets on the top floor of the house but some of these over the Hall were removed when the floors rotted away and the Hall now opens right up to the roof.” Jeremy surmises that more than half the house’s books, part of a huge library sold in 1900, were kept on the staircase and landings.

Lissan House is a rare survival of an Ulster country house last revamped in Victorian and Edwardian times. Mourne Park House outside Kilkeel in County Down (which also had a remarkable staircase) was another survivor which we knew well before it was badly burnt in 2013. A mid 20th century photograph shows a Staples wedding at their house Barkfield in Formby, Lancashire. It was recently restored by new owners. A Staples owned country house in County Laois, Dunmore near Durrow, was demolished around 1960. The 100 hectare Lissan Demesne is far enough from Cookstown to not be under threat of development. Soon, we will learn Lissan House can be hired for major fashion shoots.

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Art People

David Hockney + A Year in Normandie + Some Other Thoughts About Painting Serpentine Galleries London

A World Apart

“I have always believed that art should be a deep pleasure. There is always, everywhere, an enormous amount of suffering, but I believe that my duty as an artist is to overcome and alleviate the sterility of despair … New ways of seeing mean new ways of feeling. I do believe that painting can change the world.” And if any artist’s paintings can change the world, they are David Hockney’s.

A monumental digital printed mural wraps its way round the internal perimeter of Serpentine North. It’s like sitting in his garden in the north of France taking in the panorama through the seasons. A Year in Normandie, 2020 to 2021, is formed of more than 100 iPad paintings. The 88 year old isn’t afraid of embracing recent technology while still painting traditionally. This exhibition features the best of both worlds. Sterility of despair begone!

Five new still lifes and five portraits of his family and carers hang in the central space of the gallery. These paintings are united by their geometric frontal compositions and the recurring motif of a gingham tablecloth. Two more worlds collide: figurative and abstract art. David considers that as long as it is on a flat surface all figurative art is inherently abstract.

Hans Ulrich Obrist, Artistic Director of Serpentine Galleries, says, “We are excited to present a new exhibition by one of the world’s most important artists … In his new portraits he captures not only his sitters but also the very act of seeing, while the frieze offers a deeply personal meditation on the passage of time.” David Hockney offers us a slower, more colourful world where nature is nearer and a love for life is apparent. Outside, a swan swims up The Serpentine into the morning sun.

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Art Design

Beaghmore Stone Circles + Alignments Sperrin Mountains Tyrone

The Prehistoric Landscape

Seamus Heaney writes of a “stone circle chill” in On the Spot (2006). The Nobel Laureate Poet was, like most people, fascinated by prehistoric stone circles. He lived a few country kilometres from Beaghmore which lies high in the Sperrins, Northern Ireland’s largest mountain range. This is the darkest nighttime area in the Six Counties, suffering the least light pollution. Beaghmore (Bheitheach Mhór in Irish) means “big place of birth trees”. Dense woodland was cleared by Neolithic farmers and seven circles of stones, 10 rows of stones and 12 cairns were arranged in purposeful ceremonial positioning on the grass and heather clad moorland.

A total of 1,259 stones was uncovered during peat cutting in the late 1930s. Carbon dating places the circles and alignments 2900 to 2600 BC. Some of the stones have chisel marks which may be Ogham, an ancient Celtic secret sacred writing, a system of symbols used for divination in pre St Patrick days. Intrigue and enigma, magic and mystery, nobody knows what Beaghmore Stone Circles and Alignments stand for except for the astrological significance that three of the rows point to sunrise at the solstice and another row is aligned towards a lunar maximum. Millennia later, Bronze Age stones would provide inspiration for Environmental Art practitioners such as the English artist Richard Long. Seamus Heaney writes In A Kite for Aibhin “Back in that field to launch our long-tailed comet” (2010). That would be his last poem.

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Hotels Luxury Restaurants

Corinthia Hotel Whitehall London + Crystal Moon Lounge Sparkling Afternoon Tea

Midday Follies

“Love is patient, love is kind.” Corinthians 13:4

The Victorians were radical about town planning. In 1874 the Jacobean Northumberland House just north of the Thames opposite Waterloo in central London was swept away to create Northumberland Avenue. It would be another seven decades before Listing to protect British heritage would come into place. Manolo Guerci records in London’s Golden Mile (2021), “Northumberland House is the westernmost of the Strand palaces, one of the last to be erected and the last to disappear, with a history that spans nearly three centuries.” Tall buildings sprung up along this broad boulevard running from Trafalgar Square to Victoria Embankment. Metropole Hotel would soon become one of the impressive additions to this new townscape.

Francis Fowler (circa 1819 to 1893) and James Ebenezer Saunders (1829 to 1909) are not household names but they were clearly talented architects. Metropole Hotel commissioned by the Gordons Hotels Group was their design. Both men were members of the Metropolitan Board of Works (the forerunner to London County Council) although later removed for corruption. The 600 bedroom Metropole Hotel swung open the doors in 1886 to Savile Row frock coated gentlemen and their Liberty parasol holding ladies. “Meet at the Metropole” became a high societal signifier saying.

The hotel’s proximity to Whitehall Government Offices and the Palace of Westminster meant it was commandeered in both World Wars. In 1936 the building was purchased by the Ministry of Defence and remained in government use until the Crown Estate sold it in 2007. Four years later, the 283 bedroom Corinthia Hotel swung open the doors of the former Metropole building and the adjoining 10 Whitehall Place to Boss suit wearing gentlemen and their Balenciaga bag holding ladies. “Call by the Corinthia” has become a high societal signifier saying.

A storied site history includes Sir Winston Churchill watching the end of World War I street celebrations on 11 November 1918 from the windows of the building. In the 1920s the Metropole was well known for its Midnight Follies cabaret. Spies used one of the rooms and a network of underground tunnels led to government properties nearby. Another room was dedicated to monitoring UFOs. Sir Conan Doyle was a frequent guest: The Sherlock Holmes Pub on Northumberland Street is named after the author’s most famous literary creation. The press conference in James Bond movie Skyfall is set in the hotel.

Corinthia Hotel is an urban château, an impressive wedge of late Victorian architecture terminated by a bowed corner overlooking Whitehall Gardens. A double height oriel bay window projects over the main entrance on Northumberland Avenue. Pairs of Ionic (not Corinthian!) pilasters with swagged capitals frame the fully glazed doors. The basement and double height ground floor of the main block are faced in white stone; the upper five floors are faced in golden stone. The adjoining block is fully faced in white stone. Francis and James Ebenezer didn’t hold back on ornamentation, designing heavily decorated elevational grids of cornices and pilasters and window surrounds. A double row of dormer windows in the steep pitched roofs (some covered by fish scale tiles) is sandwiched between two storey high chimneystacks.

Afternoon tea is one of the truly quintessential British traditions. Top London hotels like to give it a quirky take and Corinthia is no exception. A chilled bottle of Lysegrøn, a Copenhagen Sparkling Tea, is the original accompanying elixir for the dry curious. As the sommelier pops the cork, a fresh citrus and green tea scent is released. The lively taste has notes of lemon grass and orange peel. There are long lasting hints of Darjeeling and green apple.

Hierarchically uniformed staff lead guests up and into the Crystal Moon Lounge named after the 1,001 crystal Baccarat chandelier hanging from a central seven metre diameter glass dome. “There’s just one red diamond orb,” the restaurant manager points out. “That’s appropriate for Valentine’s Day! We are using red striped fine bone china today too.” Ah, Valentine’s Day, the celebration of romance named after the saint whose remains are in Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church, Dublin. Romantic gestures will end with the party favour: a red box of English breakfast tea. “Would you like newspapers?” The Financial Times and Telegraph are delivered to the table. So is The Column, the hotel magazine. One of the waitresses is a fellow Emerald Fennell fan. “Wasn’t Saltburn just the best film? I’m off to see Wuthering Heights on my own later. I can’t wait!”

A glass of hot black Alfonso tea is the liquid amuse bouche. And then a neat row of finger sandwiches arrives (crusts are for starlings). Clarence Court egg mayonnaise with truffle on sourdough bread; Secret Smokehouse smoked salmon, nori and lime on brioche bread; and salted cucumber, chilli and coconut yoghurt on onion bread. Turns out coronation pepper is the new coronation chicken. The sandwich selection is bottomless: this is gonna take time. Cancel the matinée!

A waitress presents a white box of plain and sultana scones with organic strawberry jam and blackcurrant and Star Anise jam with Cornish clotted cream. For a moment, it’s like being teleported to a Week St Mary tearoom. The serving staff are all rather wonderful and good fun. Linen napkins are continually folded and laid; the tablescape constantly updated. “More Milk Oolong?” China is having a fashion moment.

Somebody strikes up chords and chromatics on the grand piano: I Can’t Help Falling In Love with You; I Will Always Love You; You’re Too Good to Be True … An unfallen avalanche of sweets appears. The yellow fruit finds a theme in lemon drizzle cake (an Irish country house favourite) and calamansi cheesecake (Philippine lemon). Apple and Speculoos (Belgian and Dutch crunchy delights) gâteau; pistachio and white chocolate cookies; salted caramel and milk chocolate tart; and vanilla religieuse all take the biscuit. In a good way.

“Afternoon tea is our signature service,” explains the Director of Food and Beverage Daniele Quattromini. “The Crystal Moon Lounge is right here in the middle of the hotel. It’s such a unique space. And we’re fortunate to have a designated time and space for afternoon tea. Our Baccarat crystal champagne flutes match the chandelier above. We have three antique trolleys from the 1920s.” A temporary display of photographic portraits by Lorenzo Agius adds familiar faces to the surroundings.

Corinthia Sparkling Afternoon Tea is one of hundreds of elevated experiences available through SupperClub Dining and Lifestyle Concierge. The Abu Dhabi based company offers members an international luxury range of buffets and brunches, tables and trips, midweek getaways and weekend spas. Just some of the other participating hotel groups include Four Seasons, Mövenpick, Raffles, Rosewood, Sofitel, Waldorf Astoria. SupperClub always lives up to its tagline: “Exclusive benefits, curated offers and frictionless bookings all in one seamless ecosystem.”

In Betjeman Country (1985), Frank Delaney writes about the poet and architecture critic Sir John Betjeman. Frank notes, “Outside in the sunlight, Whitehall shimmers impersonally … ‘Just as an old church is the history of its parish in terms of stone, so is Whitehall the embodiment of England,’ Betjeman wrote carefully. ‘The weakness of this analogy is that whereas most churches are open for the public to inspect, it is well nigh impossible to see inside Whitehall.’” The conversion of this secretive office block back to a hotel, 140 years after it first opened to the public, allows access once more to one of the vast stone buildings of this historic quarter. Corinthia Hotel has added personality, reinstating palatial glamour to Northumberland Avenue. The Financial Times review of the newly released film Wuthering Heights is a reminder love doesn’t always reach perfection. Unlike Sparkling Afternoon Tea in the Crystal Moon Lounge.

Upon leaving, the pianist Kevin Lee plays Moon River, keeping the crepuscular mood lit. He quips, “I’ve done the maths. You’re too young to remember this!” Quite the exit.

“Love never fails.” Corinthians 13:8

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Luxury Restaurants

Beijing Daxing International Airport + Zaha Hadid Architects

Radial Romance

Zaha Hadid never did get to see the finished project. She died in 2016, three years before completion. It’s yet another star in her architectural firmament or rather starfish in her architectural ocean. The world’s largest terminal in a single building. All 700,000 square metres. Current Studio Principal of Zaha Hadid Architects Patrik Schumacher was the co designer. The six storey airport – four above ground; two below – is arranged around a “central orientation space dome” to quote Zaha. Five aircraft piers radiate out from this vast atrium. The tip of the sixth arm is filled by the railway station plaza. Max eight minute walks to departure gates. Patrik this time, “Echoing principles in traditional Chinese architecture that organise interconnected spaces around a central courtyard, the terminal’s design guides all passengers seamlessly through the relevant departure, arrival or transfer zones towards the grand courtyard at its centre – a multilayered meeting space at the heart of the terminal.”

Disciplined, rigorous and highly intellectual, the design achieves a large measure of lyrical beauty from its deeply sensuous sinuous architecture meets sculpture form. Daxing is one hour’s drive south of Tiananmen Square, just round the corner in Beijing distance terms. It strategically and symbolically terminates the Central Axis of Beijing. This line leads from the Throne Room of the Forbidden City down the middle of the roughly symmetrical street plan of the city. Illustrated brass plates across the airport floor mark the city as compass: 48 kilometres from Bell Tower; 47.8 kilometres from Drum Tower; 46 kilometres from Pavilion of Myriad Springtimes Jingshan; 44.2 kilometres from Tian’anmen Rostrum; 43.3 kilometres from Qianmen; 41.4 kilometres from The Temple of Heaven; and 40.2 kilometres from Yongdingmen.

Under one of the vast mushrooming ceilings, shopping pods include Bally, Boss, Coach, Michael Kors, Montblanc, Polo Ralph Lauren and Jingdong Convenience Store. On the second floor, East Pacific Passenger Lounge provides a dining area, bar, gym, meeting rooms and bedrooms spread over a large oval floorplate. The great outdoors and indoors collide in themed indoor amenity areas: Chinese Garden, Countryside Garden, Porcelain Garden, Silk Garden and Tea Garden. These oases are sandwiched between the double ended prongs at the five aircraft piers of the symmetrical starfish layout.

There are juxtapositions and there’s the cutting edge Zaha Hadid Architects design (glass and metal) backdrop to the traditional Chinese Garden (timber and stone). Visitors could be forgiven for thinking they have arrived in the Forbidden City without ever having left the airport. A pair of exquisitely painted pavilions filled with polished antiques stand proud on either side of a pond. Rockeries and a gazebo complete the Willow Pattern scene. It’s hard to appreciate the full scope and scale of the airport either upon arrival or from the indoor outdoor experience. The sweep of undulating red roofscape – a contemporary bow to historic Eastern architecture – is best appreciated from the window of a China Southern Airlines plane.

Meanwhile back in London, Serpentine Galleries are collaborating with the Zaha Hadid Foundation this year to commemorate her legacy and mark the 25th annual Serpentine Pavilion – she designed the inaugural temporary structure in 2000. A series of lectures and events will fill architecture and design connoisseurs’ diaries this autumn. Artistic Director of the Serpentine Hans Ulrich Obrist says, “We often quote Zaha Hadid’s belief that there ‘should be no end to experimentation’. Zaha’s spirits remains a vital inspiration for our programme.” Director of the Zaha Hadid Foundation Aric Chen comments, “Through her boundary breaking life and work, Zaha changed the course of architecture. Her early and longstanding collaboration with the Serpentine played no small piece in this. We’re thrilled and honoured to start this collaboration with an institution she was so close to and one that so deeply shares her commitment to innovation and the public.”

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Architecture Art Design People

Spiritual + Physical Health Beijing

Real State  

A cross rising above the central pediment of an attractive if somewhat anonymous looking two storey rendered building may seem at first glance to be a surprising addition to the skyline just north of the Forbidden City in Beijing. Yet Kuanjie Methodist Church in Dongcheng District is one of an estimated 6,000 registered Christian churches and 15,000 registered ‘meeting points’ for five million believers in China. In 1967 the Bamboo Curtain (the Asian equivalent of Europe’s Iron Curtain) was lifted allowing international exchanges in knowledge and ideas to take place. At the same time a desire for spirituality and a religious search for meaning gained momentum. Ever since, the visible growth of Christianity during the post Mao era has been dramatic.

Khiok-khng Yeo is a brilliant academic bridging the gap in Western language led theology to reach a Chinese audience. He seeks to translate his understanding of God and humanity into the indigenous philosophical language of his own country. In What Has Jerusalem to Do with Beijing? Biblical Interpretation from a Chinese Perspective (2018), he filters Christianity through a Chinese prism: “Scripture does not contain syllogistic arguments for the existence of God; rather, it assumes that God exists. The scriptural tradition presents evidence for the existence and nature of God as an encounter with the living God. This tradition is in harmony with Chinese theology, especially when adapted to the yin yang model that speaks of the dynamic, bipolar nature of things.”

“These ‘both-and’ aspects of God are clearly seen in the concept of the Triune God. God is both the yin and the yang,” Khiok-khng contends. “The Trinity is incomprehensible and will always remain a mystery. But the term Triune seems to speak of ‘is-ness’: distinctiveness and relatedness. Note that interrelatedness is not only evident among the Trinity, but also obvious between the Trinity and the world … The Chinese method does not assume or assert its superiority, validity or comprehensiveness over traditional or contemporary methodologies of the West or the East. It seeks only to show the translatability of the Christian truth through the employment of the yin yang philosophy.”

He sets out the tenets of yin yang. Cosmology is more important than anthropology because anthropology is part of cosmology. Reality is change rather than being. Reality is relatedness: yin and yang are mutually inclusive. It’s all about reading the Bible culturally and reading the culture biblically. And a universal acknowledgement that, “For those who believe are entering into God’s rest where God’s presence meets them where they are. It is with every step to the mountaintop and down into the valley of darkness that they encounter God, one another, and themselves. Rest is not inactivity, but instead the untiring activity of that constant encounter with the presence of God.”

Yin yang is better known as one of the foundations of Chinese medicine. Tong Ren Tang Chinese pharmaceutical company was founded in 1669 to serve the Qing dynasty. It uses the philosophy of yin yang to diagnose, treat and balance opposing bodily forces. Dr Linda Chan explains, “Nothing in health is totally yin or totally yang. Relative levels of yin yang are continuously changing in the body. Normally this is a harmonious change but when yin or yang are out of balance they affect each other and too much of one can eventually consume and weaken the other.”

On a midweek winter’s morning, yin yang in action is taking place in Ri Tan Park to the east of the Forbidden City. Ri Tan, the Temple of Sun, was built in 1530 which was the 9th year of Jinjing in the Ming dynasty. It is one of five temple sites across the Capital. In the 1950s Ri Tan was classified as a 21 hectare public park, a green heart of the Chaoyang District. Colourful pavilions atop grey rockeries surround miniature lakes. A group of locals are practising Tai Chi Walking. This exercise is to consciously shift weight to maintain balance and internal flow. The full (yang) leg supporting weight is balanced by the empty (yin) leg which is weightless and ready to move. Arms are stretched out to maintain connection with the body’s centre and improve balance while guiding energy flow.

The philosophy even applies to the national drink of jasmine tea. Its warming yang character balances the cooling yin nature of the usual green tea base to improve digestion and create a harmonious spirit.

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Architecture Art Design Developers Luxury People Town Houses

Forbidden City Bejing + Lavender’s Blue

You Look Like a Beautiful Shaolin Kung Fu Monk

To start an article with a diction caution is rare but before imprecision and overuse dulled its impact there was iconic. And if anywhere owns that adjective it’s the Forbidden City, the world’s largest collection of ancient timber buildings. There are no fears of syntax slips with the highly audible and highly knowledgeable Mandy Wong, China’s leading travel expert, who’s about to condense several millennia of history into a four hour exclusive private tour.

But before a shallow dive into history, some governmental context. Purposeful sweeping change is no accident under the leadership of President Xi Jinping. While many factors have fuelled China’s economic success, his long term planning and a governance model combining strategic five year development plans with flexible adjustments remain among the key drivers, allowing policymakers to efficiently respond to emerging challenges. Western leaders take heed. Steady transformation is closely linked to the authoritative philosophy of President Xi’s The Governance of China. First published in 2014, the latest iteration is Volume V which has been translated into 40 languages.

The publication is a major theoretical innovation integrating the basic tenets of Marxism with China’s national and cultural needs. Volume V is a compilation of 91 of President Xi’s spoken and written works from 27 May 2022 to 20 December 2024. The President delivered a parliamentary speech on 16 May 2024 on The Promotion of High Quality and Sustainable Tourism. He opened by noting since the launch of reform and opening up of the country in 1978 and especially following the 18th National Congress of 2012, China’s tourism sector has enjoyed burgeoning development.

“We should pursue innovation while leveraging the traditional role of tourism, improve the quality and efficiency of the industry, and integrate its development with that of other sectors,” he stated. “Efforts should be made to improve and modernise the industry and strengthen the sector so that it can raise the quality of life, boost our economy, develop our spiritual home, better present the national image, and facilitate mutual learning among civilisation.” President Xi urged central departments and provincial authorities to strengthen their commitment and dedication to fostering high quality sustainable tourism through intensive collaboration for tangible results.

On 28 October 2024, the President made a parliamentary speech on how to Build China Into a Cultural Powerhouse. “Cultural heritage is a compelling witness to the splendid Chinese civilisation and also a precious treasure bequeathed to us by our ancestors,” he explained. “We should have a profound respect for history and love for our culture. We will undertake the systematic protection of cultural heritage under unified supervision and prioritise protection, sound utilisation, and minimal interference.”

Nowhere embodies that diktat requiring unification of supervision, prioritisation of protection, sound utilisation and minimal interference in relation to a historic asset than the Forbidden City. In 1994 the Chinese Government gave workers a second day off each week and so the weekend began. There are 1.3 billion or so people in the Middle Kingdom and today, Saturday, it feels like they have all descended on the ancient heart of the Capital. “Aubergine”! Chinese people say “qiézi” when posing for a photograph. It’s easy to end up saying enough aubergines to fill a field such is the exchange of capturing captivating beauty. But with 74 hectares and close to 1,000 rooms, there’s space for everyone.

President Xi gave a speech on 17 July 2023 at the National Conference on Eco Environmental Protection as recorded in The Governance of China Volume V, confirming, “The blue skies initiative is a top priority in the battle against pollution.” Yesterday and today and the day after were and are and will be blue skyed. “I don’t like the greyness of London in winter. Beijing is like Spain in January!” says Mandy. Except for the minus degrees temperature.

“There were 24 generations in total of the Ming and Qing Dynasties!” she declares at the entrance to the Outer Courtyard. “This really is the forbidden place. Only royals and staff were allowed to enter: everyone else was kept out. The moat is frozen now but in summertime you will see people boating on it. In 1367 the first King built a Forbidden City in Nanjing but he was scared of losing Mongolia so started building the Beijing Forbidden City in 1406. It was very fast building. The whole place was completed 14 years later in 1420. The following year Beijing became the Capital of the Ming dynasty. 14 Ming 10 Qing!”

Mandy blazes through the Outer Court into the Inner Court. “The Imperial colours are red and yellow. Red is lucky; yellow is supreme power. Green is earth; blue is heaven. Symmetry is so important in Chinese culture. Man and woman. Light and darkness. Even the stone animals. We always like balance. There are no trees in the Outer and Inner Courts to make them super safe. Kung Fu fighters could jump very high or hide behind trees. There are 18 layers of bricks under the paving so no tunnelling. Look! There are baby dragons on the roof.”

“Look!” demands Mandy again. “There are also pixiu on the roof. The pixiu is a powerful Chinese mythical creature resembling a winged lion. This creature is revered in Feng Shui as a potent guardian of wealth. It has a big open mouth and a big belly but no bottom: it eats a lot but there is nowhere for the food to go. That represents money not being wasted. The dragon is man; the phoenix is woman. There are no phoenixes and there were no women in the Outer Court.”

A sign along a stone terrace states: “Usually filled with water, these bronze and iron vats were used to protect the Imperial Palace from fire. Between Xiaoxue (Light Snow) and Jingzhe (Awakening of Insects) in solar terms, the vats were wrapped in cotton cloth and covered with a lid. When necessary, charcoal would also be burnt underneath to prevent the water from freezing. The earliest vat now preserved in the Forbidden City was cast during the Hongzhi reign (1488 to 1505) in the Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644). Ming vats are simple yet elegant, with plain iron rings on the sides and a wider upper body with a tapered base. Qing dynasty (1644 to 1911) vats feature rings held by side knobs with the faces of beasts, a large belly and a smaller mouth. At present there are over 200 bronze and iron vats in the Palace Museum, including 22 gilt bronze vats flanking the Hall of Supreme Harmony (Taihe dian), the Hall of Preserving Harmony (Baohe dian), the Gate of Heavenly Purity (Qianqing men) and the Palace of Heavenly Purity (Qianqing gong).”

She relates, “The Emperor had one official wife and hundreds of concubines. He would take a private tour around Shanghai and south China looking for beautiful versatile young ladies who were talented at calligraphy and music and bring them to live in the Imperial Palace. The East Palace in the Forbidden City was where the concubines all lived.” Beyond the red roofs the 21st century raises its head on the skyline. Citic Tower designed by New York practice Kohn Pederson Fox and London practice Farrells in collaboration with the Beijing Institute of Architectural Design is just over half a kilometre in height making it the tallest building in the Capital. There’s a historic link: its gently curving shape increasing in area to the base and top is based on a zun, an ancient Chinese wine holder.

A sign inside one of the pavilions states: “Hetian jade is the central pillar of Chinese jade culture. It comes from the vast and geologically complex terrain of Xinjiang, where archaeological evidence shows that jade has been used for over 4,000 years. Its earliest known use was in artefacts such as jade axes unearthed at the ancient Loulan site in Ruoqiang County, marking the initial phase of jade culture in the region. After the mid western Han dynasty, jade from Hetian began flowing into central China. It would dominate jade craftmanship for the next 2,000 years. From the 26th year of the Qianlong Emperor’s reign (1761) onward, Hetian jade began entering the Qing court as yearly tributes in both spring and autumn, and became the main source of jade in the Imperial Palace. The production and use of Hetian jade wares made an unparalleled advance, sparking another development boom in Chinese jade culture. The collection of the Palace Museum bears witness to over 5,000 years of Chinese civilisation and stands as a testament to centuries of cultural exchange and integration. In celebration of the Museum’s centennial, this exhibition selects representative pieces of Imperial Hetian jade wares of the Qing dynasty (1644 to 1911) from the Museum’s collection. Divided into five sections – Origins of Jade, Ritual Jade, Elegance of Jade, Ingeniously Crafted Jade, and Jade Ornaments and Dining Wares – the exhibition aims to illustrate the rich jade culture of the Qing dynasty, while highlighting historical interactions, exchanges and integration among China’s diverse ethnic groups, strengthening awareness of their shared national identity.”

“That red door has 81 knobs on it,” observes Mandy. “Nine knobs across by nine knobs down. Nine is for longevity in Chinese culture. Nine by nine is 81 is eight plus one is nine. We like the number eight: it means food fortune; you’re gonna get a lot of money. The number six means your life will flow easily like water.” Beyond the Outer and Inner Courts lies a tranquil garden. “This is an outdoor museum not a park,” she corrects. “That’s a young boy talking to a bird using bird noises. It’s a Red Flanked Bluetail – that’s a lucky bird. That brings luck! This is a very special occasion. You’re very lucky!”

Chinese cultural official and scholar Xheng Xinmiao served as the Director of the Palace Museum (as the Forbidden City is now formally called) from 2003 to 2012, shaping the preservation and display of the architecture and collection for future generations. In 2005 he said, “The collection of the Palace Museum primarily consisting of artefacts from the Qing Imperial Palace is both a historical testament to the ancient civilisation of China and a shared treasure of humanity. From 1945 to February 2005, a total of 682 donors contributed more than 33,400 items from their personal collections to the Palace Museum. Their generosity reflects their deep love for this land and exemplifies the noble virtue of serving the public. Among these donations are national treasures that have significantly enriched the Palace Museum’s collection, making its range of artefacts more systematic and complete. On the occasion of the Palace Museum’s 80th anniversary, the Jingren (Great Benevolence) Honour Roll of Donors was established in the Palace of Great Benevolence (Jingren gong) to engrave the names of these donors to display their finest contributions, highlighting their deeds and promoting their spirit. May this tradition of generosity endure as a profound blessing for the Chinese nation.”

On 19 January 2026 seven Chinese Government Departments including the Ministry of Culture and Tourism released a national plan to systematically promote the country’s cultural and linguistic heritage, setting clear targets for 2030 and 2035. Local governments, schools and institutions are encouraged to incorporate language and cultural development into regional planning, urban management and campus activities. Universities are urged to offer public cultural courses such as in Chinese calligraphy. The exquisite hand painted signs over the entrances to the buildings in the iconic Forbidden City are the ultimate symbol of China’s cultural and linguistic heritage.

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Art Design Developers Hotels Luxury People

Waldorf Astoria Hotel Beijing + Zijin Mansion Restaurant Beijing

The Short Now

It’s only 11.30 in the morning and already the restaurant is filling up with the bold and the beautiful, some solo, some plural. We’re in good company. The omnipresent winter sun is flowing into the second floor dining room through louvred windows, simultaneously highlighting and shadowing the beautiful interior like a giant weathervane. In the bowed corners of the quatrefoil shaped space quatrefoil shaped chains hang in front of hand painted silk depicting colourful birds.

In Chinese culture the quatrefoil shape or persimmon stem, symbolises good luck, fortune, prosperity and harmony – like so many things do! Quatrefoils appear again on the deep pile carpet and on the ceiling of the double height foyer directly below. We’re lunching in Zijin Mansion, the Michelin star restaurant in the epic Waldorf Astoria Beijing, beneficiaries of good luck, fortune, prosperity and harmony.

Chef James Wang is celebrating a decade of working up a storm in the hotel. He explains, “Inspired by traditional Cantonese cooking techniques and concepts, Zijin Mansion selects seasonal ingredients and combines them with local dietary culture, presenting traditional and authentic exquisite Cantonese delicacies for diners.” Signature dishes which we will enjoy include Zijin Metropolitan, a rich soup with South African dried abalone and fish maw. It’s the very essence of Hakka flavours.

Feeling dry curious we have a glass of Pinot Noir Sparkling Grape Juice. And then a couple of dozen courses. Yes! Lit to the left: old masters, new mistresses. Appetisers such as Marinated Abalone with Mushroom XO Sauce. Main courses include Panfried Boston Lobster with Basil, Onion and Scallions. Puddings include Double Boiled Coconut Milk with Chocolate Bird’s Nest. We’re eating the menu. All of it. The Chef knows all about delivering refined simplicity while highlighting a respect for the ingredients. Haute cuisine of China on a plate. Or rather a lot of plates, bowls and stands. We’re getting it.

Our bill per head arrives. Amuse bouche 0 RMB. Amuse Bouche 0 RMB. Sparkling Water 136 RMB. Pinot Noir Sparkling Grape Juice 196 RMB Michelin Set Menu 988 RMB. Subtotal 1,320 RMB. Service charge 15 percent. Total 1,518 RMB. That’s roughly £160 per person for a world class leisurely three hour meal so while not exactly bargain basement it does connect to that old Chinese saying, “Cheap things are not good; good things are not cheap.”

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

Waldorf Astoria Hotel Beijing + Suite 918

Far Beyond the Banks of the Yellow River and If It Were Not So

Chinese script raises writing to an art form. Chicagoans Adrian Smith and Gordon Gill Architecture’s bronze façade superframe elevates elevation to sculpture. Its eye catching appearance instantly catapulted the Waldorf Astoria to the top of Beijing’s galaxy of five star hotels upon opening in 2014. The architecture never looks better than when all aglow at sunrise and sunset in winter. A shining beacon. Nine bedroom floors have rows of full height rectangular bay windows set into a grid. The bay windows are not uniformly placed but rather are tuned to differing angles and orientations to maximise outlook and natural light penetration. Gordon calls this concept a “compound eye”.

Grey granite as a background material recalls the charcoal bricks of historic hutongs and creates a strong backdrop to the superframe. Standalone corner fins are an elegant solution to housing utilities. The bronze will change colour as it ages – a fitting metaphor for the ever evolving city and its constant flow of frenetic stimuli. The first three levels of the hotel are visually treated as one super plinth: full height louvred glazed panels are uniformly divided by the vertical components of the superframe. This is literally transparent architecture. The Hutong Courtyard behind the 12 storey 170 bedroom main block was designed by Ma Bingjian, the Director of the Beijing Ancient Architecture Design Institute. Inspired by Ming architecture, it provides more luxurious accommodation.

Michael Krauze, Director of Operations at the Waldorf Astoria Beijing, welcomes guests: “We offer a sanctuary just steps from the Forbidden City where Beijing’s superior heritage meets Waldorf’s legendary elegance. Every space is a journey that blends the ancient soul of the Capital with contemporary sophistication. A sincere and elegant service is deeply rooted in the cultural fabric of the city. Our interiors designed by Yabu Pushelburg balance bold contrast with timeless tradition. Every detail reflects exquisite craftmanship creating an atmosphere of refinement. This philosophy extends into every element of our service from checkin to the care of personal concierges, we’re always ensuring every detail is seamlessly arranged.”

Anyhoo, that’s the formalities over. What’s that blast of Channel V music coming from corner Suite 918 on the ninth floor? High above St Joseph’s Church and The Gundam Base on Wangfujing Avenue and Beijing Yintai Jixiang Office Building on Ganju Hutong and Peet’s Coffee in the Macau Centre there’s a non stop party taking place. Lobby, makeup room, drawing room, bedroom, lobby, Aesop goodies filled marble bathroom … it’s like living in a multi compartmented silk and lacquered cabinet. There’s the temptation lurking to never leave best in class Suite 918. By day five bay windows frame the city; by night five bay windows frame the party. The viewer becomes the viewed.

Who needs to venture out to an art gallery when you’re staying in the Waldorf? One of the many strikingly original important artworks hangs in the ground floor Long Gallery – an interior boulevard of desire. A sign next to Abandoning the Precision of Shape by Liu Xiaodong states, “A stunningly evocative oil on canvas painting of the Forbidden City, evoking a timeless dimension where the viewer of the piece is requested to think about the image’s common sentiment in our memory and to question the way we view the outside world.” The artist emerged as a leading figure in 1990s Chinese Neo Realism and has continued to successfully tread the line between figurative and conceptual art ever since.

The Palace Servant by Ling Jian is a powerful showstopper at the end of the Long Gallery. An oil and acrylic painting of an outsized androgynous face has piercing eyes and wedding dress red lips pursed ready to speak and more. In Peacock Alley – a lounge named after the walkway between the original Waldorf and Astoria Hotels – Scattered Aesthetic and Concrete Depth by Chi Peng is a mixed media abstract combining craft and art telling the history of painting on materials other than canvas. An ink on ice paper artwork hangs in the entrance foyer: the two twin teacups and saucers of Shao Fan’s Integrated with the Universe speak of the Taoist concept of being integrated with this world. In a first floor lobby, a cluster of vitrines display Waling Artist in the Wild by Yang Maoyuan. Using classical marble busts as prototypes, he rounds off features and polishes the edges of heads in a conversation about the Chinese philosophy of beauty and harmony.

An absolutely flawless effortless seamless peerless airport to car to suite journey is partly to blame for us not ever wanting to leave. Suave concierges in black and tan uniform rush to open car doors, entrance foyer doors, lift doors, suite doors and later come laden with cake and fruit and bear buddies to welcome in the night. Sunrise, sunset, swiftly fly the hours, seedlings turn overnight to sunflowers, blossoming even as they gaze.

Leave the suite leave the suite leave the suite. Ok, but only for breakfasting downstairs in Brasserie 1893. A Bear Buddy’s Breakfast Menu on our table lists Golden Toast Boats (buttered toast served with maple syrup and berry cream), Crispy Fried Double Layer Milk Roll (served with chocolate sauce, shredded coconut and roasted pistachio) and Dragon Onion Rings. Tempting but nothing beats Tofu Pudding (yellow fungus and egg sauce, spring onion, chilli oil) and Fried Dough Sticks with Soy Milk. That, plus hawthorn strip and snow leopard melon cubes. Red Velvet Croissant (looks like it’s wrapped in streaky bacon outside; burst with cream inside), celery and grapefruit juice, and coffee with sugar crystals of course round off the morning’s sojourn. Sino French cuisine at its finest. This is our winter of content.

Zijin Mansion is the Michelin starred restaurant in our hotel but that’s another story on another storey.

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Architecture Art Design Town Houses

Siheyuans + Hutongs Beijing

Earth Angel

Walking along hutongs is one of the great cultural experiences of Beijing. They are narrow lanes or alleys winding between grouped single storey courtyard houses called siheyuans that allow tantalising glimpses into the residential quarters of locals. The paraphernalia of daily living lines hutongs: laundry, lanterns, flowerpots, chairs, bicycles and the ubiquitous mopeds. A blurring of public, private and shared space adds to their unique charm. Some hutongs include cafés, shops and public conveniences abutting the houses.

The history of hutongs dates from the Yuan dynasty (1271 to 1368) and they remained popular throughout the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368 to 1911). In 1949 records suggest there were around 3,250 hutongs in Beijing, many of them concentrated around the Forbidden City in the Dongcheng and Xicheng Districts. In 2003 only circa 1,500 and that has reduced to about 1,000 such is the demand for development land for multistorey apartment and office blocks. Finally, the Chinese Government has realised their architectural, cultural and tourism significance and hutongs are now protected.

There never were hutongs beyond the Second Ring Road, a highway which traces the line of the city walls demolished by Chairman Mao Zadong in the 1950s. Beijing was a low rise walled city for centuries, the single storey network of siheyuans along hutongs. The flat skyline was only interrupted by landmark barbicans, pagodas and temples.

The courtyard layout of siheyuans, many with cloistered loggias, provides shelter from sweltering summers and icy winter. Grey walls and grey tiled roofs give these inward looking houses an enigmatic appearance. The charcoal colour of the walls comes from the firing technique of spraying water on bricks in a closed kiln. The angularity of the ground floor massing contrasts with the distinctive sloping roofs. Flying corner eaves are not just visually attractive: they are effective for drainage as well.

Plain grey walls are relieved by colourful ornate entrances to grander siheyuans. Chinese architecture is as much about symbolism as beauty and functionality, and entrances are no exception. Shi shi (a pair of stone lions) often guard front doors. The male lion on the right will have his right paw resting on a ball which is for protection and wisdom. The female lion on the left will have her left paw resting on a cub which is for guardianship and compassion. A screen wall just inside the entrance is to block the direct flow of negative energy and provide privacy.

Air conditioners clinging to elevations, some in decorative metal boxes, are the most visible concession to modern comfort. These days siheyuans on hutongs are hot property with a cool cache. On a cold winter’s morning, a group of men are sitting on the pavement outside a siheyuan seemingly oblivious to the minus degrees temperature.

On 27 May 2002, President Xi Jinping addressed the 39th group session of the 19th Chinese Communist Party Central Committee: “China’s long, extensive and profound civilisation is one of the distinctive qualities of the Chinese nation. It underpins contemporary culture and creates a spiritual bond among all people of Chinese descent across the globe. It provides valuable resources and inspiration for China’s cultural innovation.” Beijing’s hutongs vividly illustrate that distinctiveness while their continued use and, in places reinvention, is a marker of cultural innovation.

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Architecture Art Design Developers

St Joseph’s Catholic Church + Wangfujing Church Beijing 

A Colossal Hope

“We live in a word based universe. That’s the key of the logos for me. This universe is not simply a product of natural unguided forces. It is a product of a rational Creator,” says mathematician and theologian Professor John Lennox. “As you get nearer the end hope should get brighter.”

Religion is the hurrah of the unoppressed creatures, the heart of a loved world, and the soul of soul felt conditions. It is the opium of the people. And why not? Subversive solace of the higher kind along this fleeting avenue. St Joseph’s Church (also known as the Wangfujing Church) has had an eventful past. In the 12th year of his reign, 1655, the Sun Zhui Emperor of the Qing Dynasty granted two Jesuits missionaries a courtyard. The Italian Father Louis Buglio and the Portuguese Father Gabriel de Magalhauens built a church on the site.

In the 59th year of the reign of the Kang Xi Emperor, 1720, the church and its outbuildings collapsed during an earthquake but they were rebuilt the following year. In the 12th year of the Jia Qing Emperor, 1807, the church library and most of the outbuildings were destroyed in a fire. The Emperor then ordered the church to be demolished and just one outbuilding remained as a prayer house. Bishop Louis Gabriel Delaplace raised overseas funding to erect a new church in 1884. During the Boxer Rebellion, on 13 June 1900 history repeated itself and the church was demolished. So far so not so good.

The Jesuits rebuilt St Joseph’s in 1904 in an uplifting Romanesque Russo French style. It’s constructed of stone as grey as the brick of the adjacent Ganyu Hutong. Why have one belltower when you can have three? A fearfully and wonderfully made domed acoustic trinity. The first half and more of the 20th century continued to be pretty rocky. The church was closed in 1966 during the Cultural Revolution but then in a change of fortune the Beijing Municipal Government under Paramount Leader Deng Xiaoping funded its restoration a decade later. St Joseph’s has been an active church and tourist attraction ever since reopening on Christmas Eve 1980. At Sunday morning Mass, a full congregation heartily sings in Mandarin, facing a white baldacchino (replicated outside) below crystal chandeliers. Words matter. Zànměi zhǔ!

“The anchor point in the end is that the logos became human and we beheld His glory: a human being in which God encoded himself in Christ,” says Professor John Lennox. “The hope for the future depends on the events of the past. There’s a new world coming. And it’s going to happen.”

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The Peninsula Hotel + Jing Restaurant Beijing

Peking Pie

“Jing” has multiple Mandarin meanings including peacefulness, reverence and essence. And as it turns out, marvellous restaurant. Welcome to The Peninsula Hotel where no man is an island.

It’s a bit like eating in a super posh Westfield if you’re a Londoner or Macy’s for New Yorkers. The lower and much lower ground floors of The Peninsula form one of Wangfujing District’s finest luxury shopping malls for well dressed interiors and citizens. Basement Level I: Arc ‘Teryx, Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Jenny Packham, Louis Vuitton, M L Luxia, Minotti by Domus Tiandi, The Peninsula Boutique and Zilli.  Basement Level II: Baxter, Domus Tianti, Giorgetti, Henge, Living Divani, Oluce, Onno, Poliform, Promemoria and Salvatori. Jing Restaurant is on Basement Level I. Its little sister Huang Ting Brasserie is on Basement Level II.

We’re celebrating life in a rather literal way having dodged the ubiquitous duvet clad mopeds which swerve and keep going rather than stop at pedestrian crossings. All those inflight Baduanjin exercises on China Southern Airlines possibly made us more supple at dodging oncoming traffic. At this rate we’ll be up for some postprandial synchronised dancing later in Ri Tan Park. Front of house, or rather front of retail unit, beckons us to the bar. A card awaits: “Dear guest, welcome to Jing. Before starting a gastronomic journey we invite you to enjoy one glass of apéritif at the bar. Bon appetit! Jing team.” The apéritif is a Kalimotxo which originates from Basque Country and is a combination of red wine and cola. A bottle of Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups, Montlouis Sur Loire Remus, 2023, swiftly follows.

Hand painted wallpaper and gigantic circular semi transparent silk embroidered screens cocoon guests in luxurious surrounds. French born Chef de Cuisine William Mahi is redefining modern French cuisine with Basque and Asian creativity. Mang-mang sik! He teases out the essence of food sourced from the China Sea, Chongqing farms, Sichuan Lakes and Yunnan Mountains with precision, sincerity, refinement, purity and harmony. We get around so what are our cornerstones of a beautiful meal? Easy. Hervé This defines three out of four of them in Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavour, 2002. All non calorific.

Champagne: “When we hear the unmistakeable sound of the cork popping off a bottle of Champagne, we stop talking and look closely at what happens as it is poured into our glass. If the foam subsides slowly, if the frill of bubbles is delicate and persistent, and if the liquid is effervescent, the wine is considered to be of good quality.”

Truffle: “The black diamond! An immense amount of ink has been spilled in singing its praises. No food writer fails to mention its appearance on a menu, and no chef neglects to feature it when he aims for stars. In Europe there are 10 sorts of truffles, which is to say mushrooms of the Tuber genus. The black truffle, also called a Périgord truffle, is harvested principally in Spain, France, and Italy, but its gastronomic qualities vary from region to region.”

Foam: “Low in fat because they are essentially made of air – foams came to prominence with the rise of Nouvelle Cuisine in France in the 1960s and then gained broader popularity as a consequence of the growing interest in lighter foods on both sides of the Atlantic. Today, with the advent of molecular gastronomy … they are very fashionable among gourmets.”

Caviar.

Dom Pérignon. Champagne, tick. A waiter appears with a bread trolley and gives a performance of firmly slicing the freshly baked offering while pointing out the yeast jar on display. The staff to client ratio is high although it is a random Wednesday lunchtime. Piped easy listening jazz contrasts with the formality of service. Sweet pea tarte amuse bouche. The Brie Truffle (Normandy Brie D’Isgny, Yunnan black truffle, pear). The black stuff, tick. Spider Crab Tart (spider crab, shiso, sea urchin, basil oil, oxalis flower, citrus confit, crab foam, horseradish, dill flower). “The crab consommé has been simmered for 24 hours,” the waiter explains. Foam, phew. Scallop Blanc de Noir (pan seared scallop, brown butter, pear). Ya’an caviar and chive salmon tartar amuse bouche deliver the fourth cornerstone of a beautiful meal.

The dining space as subterranean capsule. Underworldliness. A sanctuary of taste. Who needs windows when you’ve priceless contemporary art to admire? Chi! Chi! Chi! Such is the importance of food that while Europeans count heads per population, Chinese count mouths. Spinning plates: Maître d’ Oliver Huang and his waiting staff are as deft and elegant as ballet dancers, effortlessly weaving round the tables with extravagance of grace and posture in a timeless duration of curation for this is not mere service.

Edible flowers are scattered over one course. Ah! Could this be our fifth cornerstone of a beautiful meal? Fig walnut toast with brie truffle mascarpone followed by a glass of Americano egg foam tick two of our current cornerstones once more. Peartree and cinnamon clove ginger tea is the ultimate palate cleanser. The waiter dons white magician’s gloves for handling the silverware – a drawer full of cutlery appears and disappears throughout the meal. The stiffly starched linen tablecloth covering the round table as big as the silk screens is regularly hand vacuumed. Steaming hot hand towels keep our hands clean.

Protein forward Chinese truffles come from the foothills of the Himalayas where they are harvested at an altitude of about 2,000 metres. The main production areas are Yongren County in Yunnan Province and Panzhihua in Sichuan Province in very southwest China. They are planted at least a dozen centimetres below ground. The Chinese truffles have a bumpy dark brown surface covered in low scales displaying an inverted pyramid form with a square base similar to the Périgord truffle. Lunch in Jing is all about gourmet satisfying fashionable molecular gastronomy.

Oh and for good measure, “Bei” like “Jing” also has multiple Mandarin meanings including preciousness, treasure and north. Jing relishes in preciousness of cuisine in an artistic treasure trove north (east) of Tian’anmen Square. Nothing too tenuous there.

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Art Design Fashion

Hanfu + Beijing

After a Fashion

“Boom boom boom boom, boom boom boom boom, boom boom boom boom, doom doom doom, ok boom boom, toom toom, ok boom boom.” The catchy lyrics of Taiwanese popstar Angela Zhang’s hit (written by Harry Sommerdahl and Yi Wei Wu) go down a storm with the bright youngish things clad in Urban Revivo designer gear in downtown Beijing clubland. So far so 21st century. But away from the midnight smoky dancefloors, daytime streetwear in the Chinese Capital is taking on a different look. Very different.

Strolling down Donganmen Avenue biting on tanglulu, a Beijing street food of skewered fruit dipped in hardened sugar syrup, the bright youngish things could just as easily be sipping jasmine tea centuries ago in the Forbidden City. What’s happening? A millennia old fashion has been popularised by that most contemporary of influences: social media. Historical television dramas like The Story of Minglan set in the Northern Song Dynasty of 960 to 1127 AD are also fuelling the fashion.

Local tour guide Mandy Wong explains, “The Imperial style is super popular with young people coming from remote villages to experience life in Beijing. About 60 percent of immigrants in the city come from the Chinese countryside. Beijingers are also getting in on the act. Hanfu as it’s called is more than just fashion: it’s a way of expressing a form of national pride and cultural heritage that was suppressed last century. They are dressing like the Imperial royal family and their concubines, servants and warriors.”

Han Chinese is the world’s largest ethnic group and the name derives from the Han dynasty of 206 BC to 220 AD which shaped and unified Chinese civilisation. The style though originated in the second millennium BC so today’s generation have plenty of opportunities for breadth of eclecticism and depth of interpretation. Key components are Beizi (a cloak popularised by later dynasties), Ruqun (a short jacket and long coat) and Shenyl (a robe worn by Han and Jin dynasties). As for headdresses, the silhouette rules whether wearing a Mianliu crown with tassels or a Fenghuang crown with jewels. Some of the boys complement their dark outfits with guyliner. The girls’ pale foundation matches their long white fur trimmed capes. Fans double as sun protectors, even in winter.

It’s a case of the Emperor’s old clothes.

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Lavender’s Blue + Beijing

Like You Never Went Away 

You’re everywhere. Empirically attractive, imperially gorgeous. Positively pulsating with pulchritude. And as for this current megalopolis: it’s the acme of urban aspiration and cultural inspiration. Amongst the jade and jardines and jacquard silks; amidst the mist shawled vales and curlicued dragons and parasol clutching mandarins; centrist centring on the premier international consumption hub to the east of the world’s longest central axis, we’re doing our germane best for Sino Anglo Irish relations. Recalling the sinistral Ming and Qing dynasties; admiring the syncretic Xi Jinping era. Our very own white lotus revolutionary revelation has begun. Focusing on the glimmers. Hypnogogic mesmerisation; pedagogic realisation. We’ll always remember you dancing under city lights.

In years to come, looking back over Lavender’s Blue, reflecting on its modest commission to simply brighten the reader’s day, this record of a midwinter’s visit to Beijing – pics and prose capturing the paradigm of a paradisal time – will surely be seen to have delivered that meek mission. Although the ending of Marcel Proust’s 1913 The Way by Swann’s does caution, “The places we have known do not belong solely to the world of space in which we situate them for our greater convenience. They were only a thin slice of contiguous impressions that formed our life at that time; the memory of a certain image is only regret for a certain time; and houses, roads, avenues are as fleeting, alas, as the years.”

Wherever there’s the high life there’s Lavender’s Blue. Especially on days ending with a Y. Perhaps it really is then an infrangible storehouse of exquisite epiphanies with a strong dose of chimerical aestheticism. A finely hewn form of winsome writing and formidable photography. Savour each missive from our Champagne fuelled truffle laden foam light caviar heavy production line of epigrams and epiphanic imagery. Dithyrambic ramblings are us. Think Felicità. Like very fine wine, Lavender’s Blue is an acquired taste. But – health warning – those who remain intellectually alert enough to sup at this fountain will end up addicted. We’re talking opium level.

Categories
Architecture Art People

Ming Wong + The National Gallery Trafalgar Square London

Gallery as Mirror

The Director of The National Gallery, Sir Gabriele Finaldi, introduces the 2025 Artist in Residence Ming Wong. It’s the screening of Ming’s 20 minute film Dance of the Sun on the Water (Saltatio Solis in Aqua) in the underground Pigott Theatre below the bustle of Trafalgar Square. Sir Gabriele states, “The Artist in Residence programme has been running here since the 1980s. It’s amazing to think it’s over a generation old and the number of artists who have come through The National Gallery and sort of lived with us and then produced an exhibition. I think back to Paula Rego, Maggie Hambling, Peter Blake, George Shaw and in its most recent iteration I think of Rosalind Nashashibi, Ali Cherri, Céline Condorelli and Katrina Palmer. We’re very pleased to welcome Ming to this roll call of distinguished artists.”

He continues, “We’re very proud that The National Gallery has a practising artist’s studio in it. You may think of The National Gallery as a museum of old art but in fact since its beginnings it’s had a particular concern to be open and welcoming to the creative activity of contemporary artists. That’s the studio that Ming has been working in – it’s a sign of our commitment to continuing the tradition of an artist coming to experience The Gallery, to experience The Gallery as a colleague, and to turn that into an artistic response of their own. That’s what we’re seeing Ming do at the moment. He’s decided to respond to the rather amazing group of paintings of St Sebastian. The Artist in Residence’s response is always very personal and that’s what makes this significant and distinctive. It’s also offers a prism for the public to look at the Collection in a different way.”

Priyesh Mistry, Associate Curator of Modern and Contemporary Projects at The National Gallery, confirms that the 55 year old Singaporean artist Ming has produced an incredibly involved outstanding project presenting St Sebastian for a contemporary audience. Ming worked for 10 years in London after completing his Masters in Fine Art at Slade School of Art before moving to Berlin, explains Priyesh. The artist drew on experiences of his formative years in London. Ming Wong arrives in The Gallery as St Sebastian, arrows piercing his tweed jacket. The full meaning of the artist as art will soon be revealed.

Ming shares his thoughts on being appointed Artist in Residence: “First of all a feeling of puzzlement – why me? And then very quickly when you accept this residency you know that the screws are tightened. That was followed by a period of awe and fear which was assuaged very quickly when I met the team that we have here at The National Gallery. It’s such a privilege when I’m being taken around by each and every curator who showed me their ‘babies’ in the Collection, meeting heads of departments, getting to know how things function in this institution. That was a marvellous opportunity. It took me almost eight months before the idea landed of what I wanted to do.” Coinciding with the end of The Gallery’s bicentennial celebrations, Ming wanted to acknowledge the scope of history and time across centuries and geographies.

During his research he was surprised to come across St Sebastian reappearing in so many different guises down the ages. “I learnt more about his martyrdom and what he represented to people over the centuries,” Ming says. “As a protector against the Black Death, as patron saint of athletes, archers, policemen … It wasn’t until I decided to rewatch the 1976 film Sebastiane by Derek Jarman that things started to click. I work a lot with the history of cinema. In a way I am copying the Masters only in my case I tell stories with moving images. These clues all came together. It was late in the day when I had the idea and then we had to get into production almost straight away because I knew we had an opening in January!”

That chequerboard sun dappled staircase rising above the Pigott Theatre past carved stone letters leading onwards and upwards, ever ascending, to The Sainsbury Wing and Gallery 10. Ming’s artwork sits in the middle of the spaces hung with paintings of St Sebastian. He shares how his idea for “medieval televisions” transmitting Dance of the Sun on the Water (Saltatio Solis in Aqua) was inspired by the narrative pictures in predellas of medieval altarpieces. The use of Latin dialogue with Latin and English captions was inspired by Sebastiane. He chose a cast of Asian or part Asian actors, mostly British, who along with the artist play the role of Roman soldiers as well as taking it in turns to be St Sebastian.

Back to the artist’s pierced tweed jacket. Spoiler alert: Ming Wong’s message is we are all visitor and apparition. Destroyer and martyr. History is us. We are Roman soldiers. We are St Sebastian.