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Architecture Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Lissan House Cookstown Tyrone + Mary Martin London + Janice Blakley

Jean Pull

“The killing of Cecil was sickening, he was an iconic lion … Mary’s creations are breathtaking and to model this dress is a great honour,” mourned the headline of the 21 November 2018 Belfast Telegraph. Journalist Leona O’Neill reported, “When Cecil the lion was shot and killed in Zimbabwe by American millionaire dentist Walter Palmer in the summer of 2015, it sparked worldwide condemnation. Many took to social media to vent their fury but London fashion designer Mary Martin went one step further and channelled her anger over the senseless death into creating a stunning dress that was then modelled by a Northern Irish animal rights activist.”

Janice Blakley is Chair of Grovehill Animal Trust, a cat and dog shelter in rural County Tyrone. Mary Martin established her eponymous fashion empire based in London over a decade ago. Lissan House outside Cookstown in County Tyrone isn’t the most likely place for these two worlds to collide but there’s a continuity of female power history: its last owner Hazel Dolling kept the place going singlehandedly and set up a Trust to open it to the public after the death. Oh, and the house is ridiculously photogenic – the atmosphere seeps into the photographs.

“It’s a very intricate design full of symbolism like all my dresses,” explains Mary. “Layers of black tulle around the neck and shoulders represent the mane of the lion. I’ve used black sparkling silk for the body of the dress as a reminder of the starlit open sky of Zimbabwe, the last thing Cecil would have seen as he lay dying. God’s creation is intrinsic to all my work.” Mary is well versed in diversity and anti adversity and versatility so she chose a half century year old woman as the ideal 21st century model.

Mary Martin is also heavily involved in charity work. This year alone she has been honoured with the Cultural Impact accolade at the London Fashion Awards and named as one of Africa’s Top 200 Most Influential Women. She was coronated as a Diaspora Queen Mother in Ghana for teaching children to sew and make clothes in schools and orphanages.

The Lion Dress may be one of Mary’s best known creations but why settle for one design when you can have several suitcases full? Once fully ensconced in Lissan House, Janice twirls around a bedroom, runs down a corridor and drinks tea in a ballroom donned in The Floral Dress, The Green Dress, The Black Queen Dress … This story was picked up by a raft of publications and even now social media posts still appear on this memorable meeting of an international fashion artist with an Irish animal rights advocate.

Mary isn’t participating in fashion art; she’s reframing it. Janice isn’t doing a campaign shoot; she’s an anti shooting campaigner.

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

Waldorf Astoria Hotel Beijing + Suite 918

Far Beyond the Banks of the Yellow River and If It Were Not So

Chinese script raises writing to an art form. Chicagoans Adrian Smith and Gordon Gill Architecture’s bronze façade superframe elevates elevation to sculpture. Its eye catching appearance instantly catapulted the Waldorf Astoria to the top of Beijing’s galaxy of five star hotels upon opening in 2014. The architecture never looks better than when all aglow at sunrise and sunset in winter. A shining beacon. Nine bedroom floors have rows of full height rectangular bay windows set into a grid. The bay windows are not uniformly placed but rather are tuned to differing angles and orientations to maximise outlook and natural light penetration. Gordon calls this concept a “compound eye”.

Grey granite as a background material recalls the charcoal bricks of historic hutongs and creates a strong backdrop to the superframe. Standalone corner fins are an elegant solution to housing utilities. The bronze will change colour as it ages – a fitting metaphor for the ever evolving city and its constant flow of frenetic stimuli. The first three levels of the hotel are visually treated as one super plinth: full height louvred glazed panels are uniformly divided by the vertical components of the superframe. This is literally transparent architecture. The Hutong Courtyard behind the 12 storey 170 bedroom main block was designed by Ma Bingjian, the Director of the Beijing Ancient Architecture Design Institute. Inspired by Ming architecture, it provides more luxurious accommodation.

Michael Krauze, Director of Operations at the Waldorf Astoria Beijing, welcomes guests: “We offer a sanctuary just steps from the Forbidden City where Beijing’s superior heritage meets Waldorf’s legendary elegance. Every space is a journey that blends the ancient soul of the Capital with contemporary sophistication. A sincere and elegant service is deeply rooted in the cultural fabric of the city. Our interiors designed by Yabu Pushelburg balance bold contrast with timeless tradition. Every detail reflects exquisite craftmanship creating an atmosphere of refinement. This philosophy extends into every element of our service from checkin to the care of personal concierges, we’re always ensuring every detail is seamlessly arranged.”

Anyhoo, that’s the formalities over. What’s that blast of Channel V music coming from corner Suite 918 on the ninth floor? High above St Joseph’s Church and The Gundam Base on Wangfujing Avenue and Beijing Yintai Jixiang Office Building on Ganju Hutong and Peet’s Coffee in the Macau Centre there’s a non stop party taking place. Lobby, makeup room, drawing room, bedroom, lobby, Aesop goodies filled marble bathroom … it’s like living in a multi compartmented silk and lacquered cabinet. There’s the temptation lurking to never leave best in class Suite 918. By day five bay windows frame the city; by night five bay windows frame the party. The viewer becomes the viewed.

Who needs to venture out to an art gallery when you’re staying in the Waldorf? One of the many strikingly original important artworks hangs in the ground floor Long Gallery – an interior boulevard of desire. A sign next to Abandoning the Precision of Shape by Liu Xiaodong states, “A stunningly evocative oil on canvas painting of the Forbidden City, evoking a timeless dimension where the viewer of the piece is requested to think about the image’s common sentiment in our memory and to question the way we view the outside world.” The artist emerged as a leading figure in 1990s Chinese Neo Realism and has continued to successfully tread the line between figurative and conceptual art ever since.

The Palace Servant by Ling Jian is a powerful showstopper at the end of the Long Gallery. An oil and acrylic painting of an outsized androgynous face has piercing eyes and wedding dress red lips pursed ready to speak and more. In Peacock Alley – a lounge named after the walkway between the original Waldorf and Astoria Hotels – Scattered Aesthetic and Concrete Depth by Chi Peng is a mixed media abstract combining craft and art telling the history of painting on materials other than canvas. An ink on ice paper artwork hangs in the entrance foyer: the two twin teacups and saucers of Shao Fan’s Integrated with the Universe speak of the Taoist concept of being integrated with this world. In a first floor lobby, a cluster of vitrines display Waling Artist in the Wild by Yang Maoyuan. Using classical marble busts as prototypes, he rounds off features and polishes the edges of heads in a conversation about the Chinese philosophy of beauty and harmony.

An absolutely flawless effortless seamless peerless airport to car to suite journey is partly to blame for us not ever wanting to leave. Suave concierges in black and tan uniform rush to open car doors, entrance foyer doors, lift doors, suite doors and later come laden with cake and fruit and bear buddies to welcome in the night. Sunrise, sunset, swiftly fly the hours, seedlings turn overnight to sunflowers, blossoming even as they gaze.

Leave the suite leave the suite leave the suite. Ok, but only for breakfasting downstairs in Brasserie 1893. A Bear Buddy’s Breakfast Menu on our table lists Golden Toast Boats (buttered toast served with maple syrup and berry cream), Crispy Fried Double Layer Milk Roll (served with chocolate sauce, shredded coconut and roasted pistachio) and Dragon Onion Rings. Tempting but nothing beats Tofu Pudding (yellow fungus and egg sauce, spring onion, chilli oil) and Fried Dough Sticks with Soy Milk. That, plus hawthorn strip and snow leopard melon cubes. Red Velvet Croissant (looks like it’s wrapped in streaky bacon outside; burst with cream inside), celery and grapefruit juice, and coffee with sugar crystals of course round off the morning’s sojourn. Sino French cuisine at its finest. This is our winter of content.

Zijin Mansion is the Michelin starred restaurant in our hotel but that’s another story on another storey.

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Architecture Art Design Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

The Peninsula Hotel + Jing Restaurant Beijing

Peking Pie

“Jing” has multiple Mandarin meanings including peacefulness, reverence and essence. And as it turns out, marvellous restaurant. Welcome to The Peninsula Hotel where no man is an island.

It’s a bit like eating in a super posh Westfield if you’re a Londoner or Macy’s for New Yorkers. The lower and much lower ground floors of The Peninsula form one of Wangfujing District’s finest luxury shopping malls for well dressed interiors and citizens. Basement Level I: Arc ‘Teryx, Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Jenny Packham, Louis Vuitton, M L Luxia, Minotti by Domus Tiandi, The Peninsula Boutique and Zilli.  Basement Level II: Baxter, Domus Tianti, Giorgetti, Henge, Living Divani, Oluce, Onno, Poliform, Promemoria and Salvatori. Jing Restaurant is on Basement Level I. Its little sister Huang Ting Brasserie is on Basement Level II.

We’re celebrating life in a rather literal way having dodged the ubiquitous duvet clad mopeds which swerve and keep going rather than stop at pedestrian crossings. All those inflight Baduanjin exercises on China Southern Airlines possibly made us more supple at dodging oncoming traffic. At this rate we’ll be up for some postprandial synchronised dancing later in Ri Tan Park. Front of house, or rather front of retail unit, beckons us to the bar. A card awaits: “Dear guest, welcome to Jing. Before starting a gastronomic journey we invite you to enjoy one glass of apéritif at the bar. Bon appetit! Jing team.” The apéritif is a Kalimotxo which originates from Basque Country and is a combination of red wine and cola. A bottle of Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups, Montlouis Sur Loire Remus, 2023, swiftly follows.

Hand painted wallpaper and gigantic circular semi transparent silk embroidered screens cocoon guests in luxurious surrounds. French born Chef de Cuisine William Mahi is redefining modern French cuisine with Basque and Asian creativity. Mang-mang sik! He teases out the essence of food sourced from the China Sea, Chongqing farms, Sichuan Lakes and Yunnan Mountains with precision, sincerity, refinement, purity and harmony. We get around so what are our cornerstones of a beautiful meal? Easy. Hervé This defines three out of four of them in Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavour, 2002. All non calorific.

Champagne: “When we hear the unmistakeable sound of the cork popping off a bottle of Champagne, we stop talking and look closely at what happens as it is poured into our glass. If the foam subsides slowly, if the frill of bubbles is delicate and persistent, and if the liquid is effervescent, the wine is considered to be of good quality.”

Truffle: “The black diamond! An immense amount of ink has been spilled in singing its praises. No food writer fails to mention its appearance on a menu, and no chef neglects to feature it when he aims for stars. In Europe there are 10 sorts of truffles, which is to say mushrooms of the Tuber genus. The black truffle, also called a Périgord truffle, is harvested principally in Spain, France, and Italy, but its gastronomic qualities vary from region to region.”

Foam: “Low in fat because they are essentially made of air – foams came to prominence with the rise of Nouvelle Cuisine in France in the 1960s and then gained broader popularity as a consequence of the growing interest in lighter foods on both sides of the Atlantic. Today, with the advent of molecular gastronomy … they are very fashionable among gourmets.”

Caviar.

Dom Pérignon. Champagne, tick. A waiter appears with a bread trolley and gives a performance of firmly slicing the freshly baked offering while pointing out the yeast jar on display. The staff to client ratio is high although it is a random Wednesday lunchtime. Piped easy listening jazz contrasts with the formality of service. Sweet pea tarte amuse bouche. The Brie Truffle (Normandy Brie D’Isgny, Yunnan black truffle, pear). The black stuff, tick. Spider Crab Tart (spider crab, shiso, sea urchin, basil oil, oxalis flower, citrus confit, crab foam, horseradish, dill flower). “The crab consommé has been simmered for 24 hours,” the waiter explains. Foam, phew. Scallop Blanc de Noir (pan seared scallop, brown butter, pear). Ya’an caviar and chive salmon tartar amuse bouche deliver the fourth cornerstone of a beautiful meal.

The dining space as subterranean capsule. Underworldliness. A sanctuary of taste. Who needs windows when you’ve priceless contemporary art to admire? Chi! Chi! Chi! Such is the importance of food that while Europeans count heads per population, Chinese count mouths. Spinning plates: Maître d’ Oliver Huang and his waiting staff are as deft and elegant as ballet dancers, effortlessly weaving round the tables with extravagance of grace and posture in a timeless duration of curation for this is not mere service.

Edible flowers are scattered over one course. Ah! Could this be our fifth cornerstone of a beautiful meal? Fig walnut toast with brie truffle mascarpone followed by a glass of Americano egg foam tick two of our current cornerstones once more. Peartree and cinnamon clove ginger tea is the ultimate palate cleanser. The waiter dons white magician’s gloves for handling the silverware – a drawer full of cutlery appears and disappears throughout the meal. The stiffly starched linen tablecloth covering the round table as big as the silk screens is regularly hand vacuumed. Steaming hot hand towels keep our hands clean.

Protein forward Chinese truffles come from the foothills of the Himalayas where they are harvested at an altitude of about 2,000 metres. The main production areas are Yongren County in Yunnan Province and Panzhihua in Sichuan Province in very southwest China. They are planted at least a dozen centimetres below ground. The Chinese truffles have a bumpy dark brown surface covered in low scales displaying an inverted pyramid form with a square base similar to the Périgord truffle. Lunch in Jing is all about gourmet satisfying fashionable molecular gastronomy.

Oh and for good measure, “Bei” like “Jing” also has multiple Mandarin meanings including preciousness, treasure and north. Jing relishes in preciousness of cuisine in an artistic treasure trove north (east) of Tian’anmen Square. Nothing too tenuous there.

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Art Design Fashion

Hanfu + Beijing

After a Fashion

“Boom boom boom boom, boom boom boom boom, boom boom boom boom, doom doom doom, ok boom boom, toom toom, ok boom boom.” The catchy lyrics of Taiwanese popstar Angela Zhang’s hit (written by Harry Sommerdahl and Yi Wei Wu) go down a storm with the bright youngish things clad in Urban Revivo designer gear in downtown Beijing clubland. So far so 21st century. But away from the midnight smoky dancefloors, daytime streetwear in the Chinese Capital is taking on a different look. Very different.

Strolling down Donganmen Avenue biting on tanglulu, a Beijing street food of skewered fruit dipped in hardened sugar syrup, the bright youngish things could just as easily be sipping jasmine tea centuries ago in the Forbidden City. What’s happening? A millennia old fashion has been popularised by that most contemporary of influences: social media. Historical television dramas like The Story of Minglan set in the Northern Song Dynasty of 960 to 1127 AD are also fuelling the fashion.

Local tour guide Mandy Wong explains, “The Imperial style is super popular with young people coming from remote villages to experience life in Beijing. About 60 percent of immigrants in the city come from the Chinese countryside. Beijingers are also getting in on the act. Hanfu as it’s called is more than just fashion: it’s a way of expressing a form of national pride and cultural heritage that was suppressed last century. They are dressing like the Imperial royal family and their concubines, servants and warriors.”

Han Chinese is the world’s largest ethnic group and the name derives from the Han dynasty of 206 BC to 220 AD which shaped and unified Chinese civilisation. The style though originated in the second millennium BC so today’s generation have plenty of opportunities for breadth of eclecticism and depth of interpretation. Key components are Beizi (a cloak popularised by later dynasties), Ruqun (a short jacket and long coat) and Shenyl (a robe worn by Han and Jin dynasties). As for headdresses, the silhouette rules whether wearing a Mianliu crown with tassels or a Fenghuang crown with jewels. Some of the boys complement their dark outfits with guyliner. The girls’ pale foundation matches their long white fur trimmed capes. Fans double as sun protectors, even in winter.

It’s a case of the Emperor’s old clothes.

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Art Design Fashion People

The Africa Centre Southwark London + Mary Martin London

Black History and Futures Month

A Dame in Britain. A Queen in Ghana. A Day in Atlanta. Honour in three continents. More of Mary Martin later. The flank wall of The Africa Centre in Southwark’s cultural quarter a few blocks away from the Thames is filled with a mural of Ignatius Sancho (1729 to 1780). He was the original polymath, the seminal multihyphenate. A former enslaved African, he rose through 18th century society – no mean feat – relying on grit and talent to become a celebrated British writer, composer and abolitionist. Ignatius would also become the first person of African heritage to vote in a British general election. The portrait by London based visual artist Neequaye Dreph Dsane, known as Dreph, is loosely based on a 1768 portrait by Thomas Gainsborough. Ignatius set the bar high.

In his opening address at the Honorary Doctorate Conferment Ceremony held in The Africa Centre, Dr Matthew Godwin Mario on behalf of Myles Leadership University emphasised the importance of recognising people from diverse backgrounds who have made immense contributions to global development and continue to create opportunities and spaces for the next generation of leaders. “Myles Leadership University believes that leadership is not limited to the classroom,” he stated, “but lived through service, impact and innovation. Today we honour those who exemplify these values.”

This year’s honorary doctorate recipients were Chief Light Aboetaka (Chief Executive and Founder of African Afforestation Association in Germany). Adesegun Adeosun Junior (Cofounder of Afro Nation and Founder of Smade Entertainment Group in the UK). Henrietta Uwhubetiyi Amatoritsero (Chief Executive of Casual Queen Clothing in Nigeria). Bash Amuneni (Architect, Poet and Cultural Administrator in the UK). Bilkiss Moorad (Chief Executive of LegalWise in Botswana). Ogechi Origbe (Chief Executive Mattoris Supamart in Nigeria). Dr Tonye Rex Idaminabo (Chief Executive of Reputation Poll International and Founder of African Achievers Awards in Britain). Ignatius Sancho would approve of the list.  Miss World Angola Núria Assis said, “C’est un grand privilège d’être ici pour représenter mon pays.”

Keynote speakers were Professor Akin Akinpelu (Forbes Coaches Council in Nigeria), Dr Jola Grace Emmanuel (International Speaker and Author) and Dr Anurag Saxena (International Banker). Keynote speaker Jola Grace noted, “We are all created on purpose with a purpose: nothing just happens and aligning with your purpose brings fulfilment and peace. Your purpose was created before you was, so it cannot expire. Before we were formed in our mother’s womb, God knew us and He ordained us. He gave us our assignment, our task, our purpose way before we were formed in our mother’s womb. Sometimes God doesn’t show us the whole picture but just a snippet, expecting us to trust Him all through the journey.”

The Ceremony united leaders, visionaries and changemakers under one roof to honour service, education and the spirit of global leadership. Attendees included the ultra successful businessperson Anywhere Thompson, owner of East Walls Hotel Chichester, and Jeremie Alamazani, Founder and Chief Executive of Wealth Partners Ltd. Jeremie shared, “I understood that my colour could be an issue, could be a problem with certain people but the way to minimise your colour is to increase your skill. When you get on a plane you don’t ask the colour of the pilot or his faith. You want a professional. And when you reach a certain level people are checking more your value – what you are bringing to the marketplace – more so than your colour.”

Jeremie continued, “So I knew that my colour could come as a way to explain why I was not given something, why I was slowed down in a process. Still, try to be the best you can and they will not be able to avoid you regardless of what they think of you. So I don’t expect to be loved, I don’t want to be loved. I want you to respect me because I’m good at what I do.” A Myles University Initiative discussed after the Ceremony was Project Educate 1,000. This initiative supports worldwide access to higher education for underprivileged children. Its mission is to empower five million youths by 2045. Jeremie is a Trustee of the African Caribbean Leukaemia Trust and has many community commitments in Africa including financially supporting the Mere Teresa de Calcutta Primary School in Kisangani, Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Dame Mary Martin, Founder and Chief Executive of Mary Martin London, the international fashion house, also supports many charitable causes including teaching underprivileged children in London to sew and make clothes. At the Ceremony, Mary was recognised with a Golden Plaque for her leadership and continuing contribution to British and international fashion. Earlier this year she was made a Dame of the Knightly Order Valiant of St George. Even earlier this year Mary was crowned Diaspora Queen Mother Mama Nenyo I by the Ewe Kingdom Chiefs of Benin, Nigeria, Togo and Ghana. Last year, Atlanta City Council declared the first Saturday in December to be Mary Martin Appreciation Day. The third Monday of January every year in Atlanta is Martin Luther King Junior Day.

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Art Design Fashion People

Marie Antoinette + Victoria + Albert Museum London

Tomorrow is Not Another DayHigh camp and high treason, glamour and gore, makeup stories and made up stories, big wigs and bigwigs, political incorrectness and incorrect politics, the Marie Antoinette show at the Victoria and Albert Museum is a fitting and well fitted tribute to la dernière Reine de France. It’s the first ever British exhibition dedicated to the anglophile royal.

Marie Antoinette is the most fashionable queen in history,” sparks curator Dr Sarah Grant so there are plenty of frocks on display. Long before she was incarcerated in Temple Gaol, Marie Antoinette was a prisoner of the largest gilded cage in history. Shipped off aged 14 from her home in Austria to be married to her cousin, becoming Queen at 18, she was never allowed to leave France. Courtiers updated her on the latest London trends.

“This was a woman whose choices practically generated the industry around couture and jobs for thousands of people,” barks Manolo Blahnik, one of the show’s sponsors. Hers was a rarefied vision unrivalled by subsequent regal patronage. Yet when she opted for simpler muslin dresses and straw hats in the 1780s over the ostentatious court gowns she had previously popularised, the silk merchants accused her of abandoning their industry.

More than 230 years after her death it’s hard to distinguish between the wild fiction and wilder truth. Myths are immortal. She almost definitely didn’t suggest the poverty stricken should stick to calorific sweet stuff but wouldn’t it be fun if she really did quip “I do take little care of my appearance”? Real letters trump fake news. Marie Antoinette’s mother, Empress Maria Theresa, admonished her in a letter of September 1776, “All the news from Paris is that … your finances are in disarray and weighed down with debt.”

Frivolity not form follows function when it comes to her choice of gardening tools. But hey a girl has to look good even when digging up soil! Her harpsichord is a reminder that Marie Antoinette was more than a clotheshorse. She was an accomplished musician and popularised the salon concert. A chair represents her interest in interior decoration: the Louis XVI furniture style is named after the wrong marriage partner. Seize that Seize!

But a headless dressed dummy is a harbinger of the horror ahead. Turn the corner into the penultimate exhibition space and in place of a crinoline is a smock. Next to a guillotine. A neon sign contains her words of August 1793 “Nothing can hurt me now”. She would be killed two months later. Aged 37, the Queen of Arts lived one year longer than the future Queen of Hearts.

Turn the next corner for a posthumous party. Today is a new day. True fashion never dies. Just ask John Galliano.

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Architecture Art Design Fashion Luxury People Restaurants

Supporters’ House + The National Gallery Trafalgar Square London + Christmas

The Art of Buying

In 2023 it was the reboot of the National Portrait Gallery. This year it’s The National Gallery which holds the world’s preeminent collection of paintings made in the Western tradition starting in the early 13th century. Following the landmark reopening of the Sainsbury Wing in May came the launch of Supporters’ House and two newly created retail spaces. The Christmas 2025 range features many products designed inhouse and available exclusively at The National Gallery. Consumerism with a conscious: every purchase directly supports the art collection

The entrance door to Supporters’ House is to the immediate left of the portico overlooking Trafalgar Square. A rabbit warren of offices, stores and stock rooms have been opened up into four large spaces: a lounge and bar, restaurant, private dining room and salon event space. Interior designer Job Hoogervorst of Studio Linse says, “We wanted it to feel like it’s always been there. The initial wish was that it has an echo from The National Gallery.”

Revealed internal arches add a strong sense of structure to the corridor and spaces. Deep colours inspired by the permanent collection are used to saturate each space from the walls and window shutters to the ceiling. Job comments, “The place is quite architectonic so it is as if each room has been dipped in a colour.” Furniture from the archives has been repurposed and reupholstered. The original parquet floor has been restored. Studio Linse’s cultural hospitality space designing experience includes the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

The Gallery is also launching an international architectural competition for a new wing. This has already attracted £375 million of cash pledges including the two largest ever publicly reported single cash donations (£150 million each) to a museum or gallery. Director Sir Gabriel Finaldi states, “We are hugely excited by this development and are immensely grateful to our donors for their support – on an unprecedented scale – as The National Gallery steps into its third century. We look forward to an ever closer collaboration with Tate on this significant new initiative.”

The Painter’s Tree is a set of Christmas decorations handcrafted by Cambodian women. Felt figures include Caravaggio, Gainsborough and Rubens. The new scented edit offers soaps and hand creams traditionally made in Sussex with wrapping based on details from National Gallery paintings. Scents include Fig and Grape, Pine and Eucalyptus, and Jasmine. Details of paintings also feature on this season’s fashionwear such as Van Gogh’s famous hat embroidered on a jacket.

It’s the most wonderful time of the year … to visit The National Gallery and get shopping!

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Art Design Fashion People

Design Museum London + Blitz Club

Old Romantics  

In the late Nineties early Noughties it was The Frames in Belfast, The Pod in Dublin and The End in London. The definite article was a clue you were definitely going to have a good time. In the beginning, before these epochal nightlife venues tripped the light fantastic, there was Blitz Club. Or at least in the early Eighties. David Bowie, Siobhán Fahey, Boy George, Gary Kemp, Zandra Rhodes, Peter York … they all cut loose on its dancefloor in Covent Garden. Spandau Ballet was the house band. The latest show at the Design Museum London celebrates this tiny short lived yet influential Club (just 18 months of fun filled nights) founded by Steve Strange and Rusty Egan.

Clothing, textiles, artwork, records, music videos, ephemera and best of all an immersive nightclub complete with clubbers and discarded bottles of Blue Nun make for an escapist visitor experience.  Produced inhouse, Senior Curator Danielle Thom worked with many of the clubbers who loaned their belongings. “Almost all of the material in this exhibition has come straight from the original sources,” she confirms. “Take the dresses – they are not generic. They are things that were actually worn to the Club. That immediacy adds a valuable layer to the exhibition.”

Visitors can dial a rotary telephone to listen to interviews by Blitz Kids (the name given to frequenters of the Club by the media). Danielle says, “We are the Design Museum so are interested in design in all its facets – all its creative outlets. We wanted to capture that moment when visual design, fashion design, culture and the media start to shift at the opening of the decade.” She notes that cultural influences on Blitz ranged from architectural futurism to the Weimar Republic.

“The exhibition’s emphasis on fashion isn’t on the designer output that would emerge from the Club but on how people were actually styling themselves,” Danielle confirms. “Their clothes were gathered from jumble sales and theatrical costumiers and also pieces their friends would run up for them on sewing machines. It was necessarily very rough and ready because they had little in the way of money. But what they did have was ingenuity and creativity.”

ID and The Face magazines were birthed from this scene. Many of the editors, photographers and writers were Blitz Kids who featured clubbing contemporaries on their pages. Danielle highlights this symbiotic relationship of coverage creators and content. She says, “There was a shift in emphasis from fashion which is trend led and top down to style which is personal and idiosyncratic.” This individualistic marrying of stylistic and aesthetic awareness divorced from the mainstream with music would become the engaging singular legacy of Blitz Club.

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Architecture Art Design Fashion Luxury Town Houses

Paris + L’Art de Vivre

Releasing the Pressure

A dash across Paris can easily turn into a Coco Mademoiselle Chanel ad style escapade. Sipping morning coffee on a balcony of Le Milie Rose Hôtel teetering over Rue des Petites Ecuries (Street of Little Stables). Popping into Pleaseness for an 80s retro retail kick. Saying salut to François (Mahé) and Nico (Francioni) in La Mâle d’Effeenne. Lighting a candle in St Paul and St Louis Church. In an increasingly byzantine world, the French Capital never fails to elevate the body and soul.

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

St Pancras Renaissance Hotel + Victor Garvey at The Midland Grand Dining Room St Pancras London

No Rotten Tomatoes

So long ago. Back in 2011, we interviewed Harry Handelsman, the visionary replacing ossification with revivification at the majestic St Pancras Renaissance Hotel. Rewinding 14 years: a Polly Morgan taxidermy of a fox snuggled in a glass dome in the reception is a sign this is no ordinary office block. The Edison Building on Old Marylebone Road is named after the world’s most prolific inventor Thomas Edison. Its 1930s Art Deco exterior has been reinvented by architect David Adjaye who’s cloaked it in his trademark charcoal grey rendering. The client was Harry Handelsman of Manhattan Loft Corporation, the property developer who brought loft living to London before reinventing the Capital’s best Victorian railway hotel.

“This could have been a cool apartment building but I wanted to do something more exciting,” starts Harry. He’s clad in a charcoal grey suit, no tie, sitting in his charcoal grey top floor corner office. So far, so suave. Sliding doors open onto a huge decked terrace. “I called on my friend David. He designed an amazing transformation.” Adjaye Associates now occupy the ground floor of the Edison Building which has filled up with design companies. Munich born Harry worked as a financier in New York before arriving in London in 1984. He soon realised the potential for American style loft living in Britain. “Lofts are the concept behind giving buildings a new lease of life – they’re exciting and wonderful places,” Harry enthuses. He set up Manhattan Loft Corporation in 1992. To date around 1,000 apartments have been completed in the UK and Germany.

“We’ve no concerns about building something new though,” he adds. “Even our first scheme in London – Bankside Lofts next to what is now Tate Modern – was part newbuild. So much other new development seems too simplistic. It needs to be more energetic, more dramatic. We want to give our developments a bit of punch!” There’s nothing unenergetic or undramatic about St Pancras Renaissance Hotel. And it literally has punch – as we will discover later.

Two decades after he brought loft living to London, he’s also the best man to know what’s next in the residential development world of 2011. “High rise apartments. That’s the way things are going,” states Harry. “London is the most exciting city in the world. Development can make such a positive contribution. It’s not all about commerce. Each of our projects is different. An exciting thing is that we can make a positive difference to the cityscape. We are incredibly privileged. My team is second to none, combining creativity and commitment. I wish the planning regime would be simplified but any issues aren’t insurmountable. There’s enough appreciation of design quality. If it was all smooth sailing I wouldn’t have any grey hairs!”

Also in 2011, a busy year, we reviewed the hotel opening for Luxury Travel Magazine. Paris in two hours. Amsterdam in four hours. Lobby in 2.4 minutes. Those are the travel times from the First Class platform of the Eurostar train in London to St Pancras Renaissance Hotel … and so we continued, the excitement lifting off the screen. The motif of the hotel is the peacock which represents rejuvenation – and not just vanity (although with such architectural beauty that would be justifiable). When a peacock loses a feather it grows back perfectly. St Pancras is more like plume replacement. In 1865 Sir George Gilbert Scott won a competition held by Midland Railway to design a hotel for St Pancras Station. The client’s vision was for an understated building. The architect had other ideas.

A Gothic Revival extravaganza, his gargantuan fairytale confection of towers, turrets and terracotta tiles overwhelmed visitors when it opened in 1873, did once again in 2011, and still does in 2025. The verticality of a 72 metre high clocktower is balanced by the horizontality of a sweep of 150 metre wide frontage and the third of a kilometre depth including engineer William Barlow’s railway terminus behind the hotel. If the hotel is all about design and detailing, the terminus with its 800 cast iron columns and 2,000 wrought iron girders is a pure expression of structure and function – the sort of thundering modernity captured on canvas down the line in Joseph Turner’s 1844 Rain, Steam, and Speed: The Great Western Railway.

Sir George’s design incorporated all the latest fittings too: the first lift in a British hotel; the first revolving door in Britain; 40 centimetre thick fireproof walls. The latter was to contribute to its downfall. Time stands still for no architect or builder or hotelier. Not long after it opened, en suite bathrooms became all the rage for grand hotels. Thick internal walls did not adapt well to the insertion of bathrooms. The hotel eventually closed after just 62 years of operation and was downgraded to British Rail offices. It was even threatened with demolition in the 1960s before Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman successfully campaigned for its retention.

This Grade I Listed Building was finally saved by Harry Handelsman. A labour of love, albeit an expensive affair. His company Manhattan Loft Corporation spent £100 million converting the three upper floors to 67 apartments and a further £150 million rejuvenating the remainder of the building back to a hotel. It’s a physical embodiment of joie de vivre. The peacock’s feathers have truly regrown. Such rare and colourful plumage! The original entrance hall is now a bar with a polychromatic corniced ceiling, encaustic filed floors and walls dripping in gold leaf. Upstairs, the Renaissance inspired ceiling of the Ladies’ Smoking Room cost nearly £1 million to restore. It was the first place in Europe where females could acceptably smoke in public. This room now aptly leads onto a smoking terrace (or at least did until the boring ban was introduced).

The St Pancras Railway Terminus designed by engineer William Henry Barlow was – wait for it, another record breaker – the single largest railway structure of its time. The former taxi rank between the railway shed and original hotel (originally the pedestrian entrance to the railway platforms) has been converted into a cavernous glass roofed lobby lounge. The adjacent Booking Office is now a brasserie and bar serving traditional English delights such as quail’s eggs with anchovies. Victorian drinks like Garrick Club Punch and Moonlight White Tea are served on neverending bar. The grand staircase is the interior pièce de resistance. It’s a cathedral of colour with hand painted fleur de lys walls framed by Midland Stone arches and vaults. Exposed structural ironwork under the flights of stair fuses romance and technology. Harry’s workforce even aged the carpet on the dizzying array of fanciful flights of stairs. In 2011, we observed that the limestone pillared Gilbert Scott Restaurant looked positively restrained in comparison. Celebrity Chef Marcus Wareing’s team offered its own take on nostalgic classics such as Queen Anne’s Artichoke Tart and Mrs Beeton’s Snow Egg. The Gilbert Scott Restaurant was the setting of our first lunch with Dame Rosalind Savill, then Director of The Wallace Collection, London’s best museum.

Harry carved 38 bedrooms out of the old building and inserted 207 into a new sympathetically designed extension. Once more, the hotel caters for the demands of five star guests. A subterranean spa occupies the former steam kitchen. Our Luxury Travel Magazine 2011 article ended with Stairway to Seven (Facts). A double storey apartment is housed in the clocktower. English Heritage only allowed a 20 colour palette which includes Barlow Blue and Midland Red. The latter hue has a tomato tinge to it, an augury of our 2025 dinner. On Thursday nights in 2011, DJ Eloise rocked the Booking Office and on Friday nights it was the turn of DJ Zulu. The diamond shape is another motif of the hotel and 725 can be found in the Booking Office.

In 2018, Harry reminisced, “I always knew that St Pancras would be a challenge. The complexity of the structure and the Grade I Listing by English Heritage allowing only minimum intervention in the creation of a 21st century hotel was always going to be difficult. Many of my business compatriots thought that I was mad for undertaking such an ambitious project. At times I thought they were right. It was the sheer excitement and privilege of being given the opportunity and responsibility for this most fascinating building that kept me from desperation.”

That was then and this is now: 2025 to be precise. We’re staying in a modern bedroom of St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, dining in the restaurant and late night drinking in the hotel opposite. Bedroom furniture was graduated by wood when our hotel first opened. The best rooms on the first floor contained pieces made of oak or walnut. Second floor rooms had oak or teak furniture; third floor, mahogany; poor old fourth floor, ash. Decoration is more democratic this time round. Our fourth floor room is elegant simplicity: pattern free, clutter free, bad artwork free. The view is of the British Library, another vast red brick building (designed by Colin St John Wilson in the 1990s) although not quite so beloved as its neighbour. Our two paned rectangular window is set in a Gothic arch on the exterior: contemporary inside, traditional outside. Richard Griffiths’ architecture hits all the right notes. RHWL was the overseeing design practice of the development. Encaustic tiles on the floors of the long bedroom corridors draws the original hotel into the extension which fits neatly between the rear of the hotel and the side of the station.

The Gilbert Scott Restaurant closed in 2021. Two years later, The Midland Grand Dining Room by Patrick Powell (an Irish chef) opened before closing last year. And that brings us to The Midland Grand Dining Room by Victor Garvey (a mostly American chef). His CV includes working at two of the world’s most famous restaurants: El Bulli in Barcelona and Noma Copenhagen. Victor’s maternal grandmother was a personal chef for Charles de Gaulle so it makes sense the rebooted restaurant offers French haute cuisine even before you hop across the Channel on the Eurostar.

“There are only a few times in a chef’s life when they get handed a dining room,” says Victor, “and I’m extremely honoured and privileged and excited to be able to embark on this journey in something like this. The idea behind the menu here stems from respecting tradition but innovating and making it lighter and making it more streamlined and making it more concise and finding a way to tell the story of that incredibly deep French culinary heritage and respecting it but updating it. Old world, new ideas.” The sausage shaped Dining Room has a robust neoclassicism of the mid Victorian muscularity ilk befitting its original use as the Smoking Room. The Midland Grand isn’t the only French newcomer in town: a week later we will venture to the wildly popular Joséphine Bouchon in Fulham for cabillaud au beurre blanc à l’é chalote. Chef Claud Bossi of Bibendum South Kensington fame is once again putting the Lyon into lyonnaise in the English Capital.

Tick tock. It’s Pimm’s O’Clock on the Champagne Terrace (we’ve worked up a thirst strolling through the wetland habitat of Camley Street Park). One of London’s hidden gems, the Champagne Terrace is perched below the back of the hotel entrance tower and looked down on from the modern bedroom wing. Oysters are only to be consumed in months with an R and Pimm’s are only to be downed in months without an R. James Pimm’s recipe of liqueurs and herbs remains a warm weather winner 185 years after it was trademarked. In The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook (1982), Peter York and Ann Barr order, “May: at the first sign of summer, Pimm’s.” But no accompanying oysters.

We’re all on for tenuously excused partying and it doesn’t come much better than the 5.05pm Punch Ritual in the Booking Office for guests to celebrate the 152nd anniversary of the original hotel opening. It’s a few days off the actual date (5 May) but we don’t fuss about detail. Historic fountain penned letters from the hotel’s archives are shared while the sommelier stirs his cauldron of elixir. We’ve barely ordered more drinks in the main hotel bar when we’re ushered to our window table in The Midland Grand Dining Room. Oh the anticipation! The à la carte caters for the carnivorous so our waitress suggests vegetarian alternatives. In between pretty amuse bouches and freshly baked bread we’re served a sliced tomato starter and a diced tomato main. We’re all on for retaining our Parisian waistlines. Minimalist plates in maximalist architecture. Pudding is l’Opéra which turns out to be a delightfully deconstructed coffee cake.

A quick dash across the road and we’re soon zooming up 11 storeys in the external lift of The Standard Hotel to Sweeties bar for Power Play cocktails (Belvedere Vodka, Dry Vermouth, Sweeties Savoury Brine). We skip the Bloody Marys: enough tomato for one day. Sure enough, against a darkening pink sky, St Pancras Renaissance Hotel looms in all its pinnacled silhouetted glory. But it’s not over till the fat lady sings or the slim girl walks: before stepping onto the First Class Eurostar to post paschal pastures anew in Paris we’re off to Lightroom (a Louboutin’s throw from the hotel and Central St Martin’s Art College) for a Vogue installation. A tomato red Mercedes roars up and the fashion artist Dame Mary Martin emerges to join us – from the hemline to the frontline of fashion. So now.

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Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Hiroyuki Murase + Suzusan

Looks At Us Now

We’re on an exploratory journey led by top German journalist, stylist and trendsetter Ilona Marx. The city is our oyster on a spring Saturday. In an early 20th century former bakery in Ronsdorfer Strasse amidst music recording studios is the most discreet atelier imaginable. Low key, high fashion. We’re here to meet Hiroyuki Murase, the inspiring CEO and Creative Director of Suzusan. His fashion and interior pieces are for sale in 125 stockists worldwide from Ireland to Israel and Lithuania to Lebanon. He is bringing a new elegance to storied lineage.

“I found this building space five years ago,” Hiroyuki begins. “My office and workshop are here too. I studied fine art when I was 20 at the University for the Creative Arts in Farnham Surrey actually! Tuition fees are so high in the UK a friend of mine in Germany told me that studying here is for free. So I researched the art scene in Germany and came to Düsseldorf’s well known Kunstakademie. I didn’t study fashion or textiles: I still studied fine art.”

We’re intrigued how his business came about. “Well, my family has been doing this dyeing technique for 100 years in Japan. It’s a very traditional handicraft called Shibori and where I am from – a village called Arimatsu between Tokyo and Kyoto – is well known for this. The Shibori technique is over 400 years old and was used mainly for making kimonos. Every family in our village was once involved in this industry. I am the fifth generation now practising Shibori. Initially, I didn’t want to do what my family does so I escaped. After spending some years in Europe, I recognised actually this is beautiful.”

Hiroyuki continues his story, “Dyeing was dying! There were no young generations making it. There once were more than 10,000 Japanese artisans but when I was studying my father was one of the youngest and he was over 60. In Japan when you talk about Shibori people think of their grandmother’s kimono. It’s like talking about the past or old things. But a show in Europe was a turning point for me. My father came to the UK and showed his textiles at a fair he was invited to. He couldn’t speak any English so he called me to support him to I went to the UK.”

Hiroyuki’s female pet tortoise Ken ambles past us across the tiled floor. “People saw these fabrics from my home village and how beautiful they are – I also saw how people reacted to the Shibori. It was all new to them. Then I met Victoria Miro at her huge art gallery near Old Street in London. I met her by chance and showed these textiles to her. And she said well they’re beautiful and she wanted them immediately. Victoria Miro is like the godmother of contemporary art and I studied contemporary art! Eastern handicraft is right now.”

He started his own brand in a student flat in Düsseldorf in 2008. And the rest is history. And the present. And the future. Young people are now working for Suzusan in the artisanal studios of Arimatsu, making exclusive much sought after clothing with individual contemporary designs. It takes three to four days to make one garment and one to two months to make a kimono. Silk and cotton are traditional Shibori materials but Hiroyuki also uses luxury materials like cashmere. He sits down on the floor next to Ken and gives us a demonstration of the tying and sewing methods which are the initial stages of the process before dyeing takes place. Outside, the rose clad terrace is gaining colour to the day.

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

Düsseldorf +

Completing the Circle

“He made a circle out of a lake; he formed two rivers from the circle; he flooded and destroyed an island, creating a sea,” writes Gore Vidal in The City and the Pillar (1949). “Dorf means ‘village’ and Düssel is a tributary flowing into the Rhine,” announces the well informed tour guide Katja Stuben. The origins of the city may lie in 7th century farming and fishing settlements where the minor River Düssel flows into the major River Rhine. In 1288 the ruling Count Adolf V of Berg granted a town charter to Düsseldorf. “Today there are around 700,000 people living in Düsseldorf but it still resembles a village. It is a friendly local community with all the benefits of a city.”

Düsseldorf mainly developed on the east side of the Rhine,” Katja explains. “Only about 10 percent of it is on the west side in Oberkassel, Niederkassel, Lörick and HeerdtDuring World War II much of the city was damaged or destroyed but the Art Deco residential buildings in Oberkassel were relatively unscathed. These are now some of the best properties in the city overlooking the riverside Rheinwiesen Meadows.” There is a surprisingly large restored and rebuilt Old Town known as Altstadt. “The cobblestoned square of Burgplatz connects the banks of the Rhine to Altstadt. In the middle of Burgplatz is Schlossturm, the remaining medieval tower of the ducal palace.”

Two of the oldest and grandest buildings in Altstadt are the Catholic Churches of St Lambertus and St Andreas. Founded in 1288, St Lambertus overlooks a courtyard behind Burgplatz. Its wonky spire, one of the many idiosyncratic glories of the city’s exhilarating skyline, is the result of an 1815 reconstruction which was too heavy making the roof tiles gradually twist. In contrast to the red brick walls of St Lambertus, the exterior of St Andreas is painted lemon yellow and pepper grey. This Baroque ecclesiastical edifice founded in 1622 stands further to the east of Burgplatz. HeimWerk is the best brasserie in Altstadt to sample schnitzel. The vegetarian option is vegetable and potato rösti in a marinade of horseradish and mustard topped by carrot flakes.

“Japanese people settled in Düsseldorf in the middle of the 20th century,” records Katja. “They came to establish businesses in the steel industry. The population of this city is now around one percent Japanese. Little Tokyo is the Japanese business district. The Michelin starred Nagaya is one of the best Japanese restaurants in Europe. There are still traditional Eastern travel agents in Little Tokyo.” Heading westwards geographically and culturally, Königsallee is devoted to luxury fashion houses and hotels. The glitzy five star Steigenberger Park Hotel overlooks this verdant boulevard. Its retail concessions include Dolce Gabbana, Givenchy, Stefano Ricci, Catherine Sauvage and Wellendorff. Everyone and everything in this postcode is preened to perfection, even the posing pondside ducks.

“Let’s go up the 240 metre high Rheinturm – the Rhine Tower!” suggests Katja heading back to the river. “The penultimate floor viewing gallery of the tower rotates a full circle once an hour like it’s on rollerblades.” Slanting windows frame an eagle eye’s view of the Landtag North Rhine-Westphalia Parliament building completed in 1988 to the design of Eller Maier Walter. Its floorplate of overlapping and concentric circles draws on an aspiration for openness and transparency in politics. A decade younger is Frank Gehry’s RheinHafen Arts and Media Centre on Am HandelsHafen in his “where’s my T square gone” trademark idiom. Each of the three curvilinear concrete volumes is individually finished. The northernmost block is white painted render. The southernmost, red brick. The middle block is coated in stainless steel. Using identical rectangular windows set in deep surrounds (except for the ground floor windows which are similar but taller) demonstrates the architect’s functionality of fenestration amidst whimsy of form. Later, the moon will rest on this tricoloured trio.

She points out, “Look down again and beyond RheinHafen is MedienHafen, the Media Harbour which was the old riverside industrial area. It mostly accommodates media, communications, IT and fashion companies now. Many of the big international architects have designed buildings there: Will Alsop, David Chipperfield, Steven Holl, Helmut Jahn,  Renzo Piano. Ok, let’s go shopping now. Schadow Arkaden on Schadowstrasse is one of the large shopping centres in Düsseldorf.” The nearest subway station is a work of art. A screen over the line records anonymised images of passengers entering the building with a few minutes delay, deriving geometries – many circular – from their movements. Called Turnstile, this installation was designed by local artist Ursula Damm.

Borrowing the words of Gore Vidal “On the warmest and greenest afternoon of the spring” Carlsplatz is where everyone aesthetically pleasing is hanging out for food and wine. It’s a downtown upmarket market. “Three guys – Philipp Kutsch, Björn Schwethelm and Nico von der Ohe – started Concept Riesling in Carlsplatz in 2017. They source from young to vintage wineries. There are 1,500 bottles to choose from priced right up to €7,000,” Katja confirms. Prost! Sláinte! Cartwheeling is the urban sport of Düsseldorf. Happiness is the city’s default disposition. Next to Concept Reisling is a potato stall; many varieties have girls’ names. Adretta, Gunda, Laura, Marabel, Rose, Theresa and Violet all vie for attention.

“Twilight and the day ended,” prompts Gore Vidal. There’s so much promise and pleasure in the air. Destination: The Paradise Now on Hammerstrasse. Co owner Garciano Manzambi shares, “I wanted to bring the holiday vibe of Mykonos to my hometown. We can accommodate 800 people who come early and stay late. Come with me and check out the nightclub.” But first there is caramel and truffle pasta to enjoy on the vast terrace. And bread. “This butter is heated and whipped to give the taste of nut and truffle,” explains the friendly waitress. Everyone is friendly in Düsseldorf. “Your wine is from the Pfalz, one of the famous regions of German vineyard production.” Sorbet is Stilllebenmalerei. The Paradise Now is open till 3am on weekends. The hot DJ is already mixing cool tunes. Everyone here is genetically blessed and materially privileged. Dining, drinking and dancing in the same venue till dawn or at least the wee small hours will unfold as a theme of this city. Fast forward 24 hours and cruising up the Rhine on the KD (Köln-Düsseldorfer) is what it’s all about. Good food, good company, good music and thank goodness two discos to shape those midnight grooves.

On another day, leading journalist and trend consultant Ilona Marx cuts a dash as she shares her creative passions under the constant blue velvet sky which is crisscrossed by white streaks, a reminder that the airport lies in the city itself. Five years ago, goldsmith and jewellery designer Lisa Scherebnenko took over as Director of Orfèvre. The gallery and workshop is on the prestigious Bastionstrasse. She relates, “I use classy materials for jewellery: silver, gold, platinum but also tantalum which is a very special one. Do you know about it? Tantalum is a super nice material and not a lot of jewellers use it because it’s very hard to work with. But it’s very beautiful and really lovely on every skin.” Very fine jewellery has been made in Orfèvre since it opened in 1969. Her Rope Collection uses intertwined circular forms. Further down Bastionstrasse is Constanze Muhle’s eponymous atelier. “This is a hidden gem with collections from the likes of Nasco, Neni and Bruno Marnetti inside,” Ilona observes. “Constanze is incredibly well informed.”

Ilona states, “Ruby Luna is one of our trendiest hotels. The name comes from the popularity of the moon landing in the mid 20th century. This building started life as a Commerzbank drive through in the 1960s. It was designed by architect Paul Schneider-Esleben. You can still see the control panel of the bank which is now the breakfast bar of the hotel! Come on up to the rooftop terrace for a view of the city and the Rhine.” Upstream is Kunstpalast which celebrates art history. Mid 20th century Arno Breker figurative sculptures line the lawn. Midtown is K20, another museum, known for its modernist art such as Andy Warhol’s 1962 silkscreen ink and pencil on linen A Woman’s Suicide.

Lunch of porcini mushroom ravioli is on the stylish terrace of Schillings overlooking Hofgarten. This restaurant is on the ground floor of Schauspielhaus. The theatre with its white ribbed concrete exterior forms an enigmatic volume resting on pilotis (The City and the Pillars pluralised into physicality?) in front of the partly glazed ground floor. It was built to the design of local architect Bernhard Pfau in 1970 and has an enigmatically timeless quality. The dining room is as monochromatic as the exterior. Previously, Katya had discussed some local cuisine. “Himmel und Erde is a traditional brewery dish. It is mashed apple and potato. The name means literally ‘sky and ground’! Then there is Sauerbraten which is made of hot brown raisin. Adam Bertram Bergrath mustard or ‘ABB’ dates back to 1726. It comes in a refillable ceramic pot. Van Gogh included a pot in one of his paintings.” A circularity of existence.

Cultural hours with creative Düsseldorfers don’t come any better than learning about art and fashion and life with Hiroyuki Murase, Kaoli Mashio and Klaus Rosskothen. CEO and Creative Director of the internationally successful fashion and interiors label Suzusan, Hiroyuki has a studio in a historic former bakery building in Ronsdorferstrasse. He relates, “My family have been doing the dyeing technique called Shibori for 100 years. This traditional craft is usually for making kimonos but I use it in a contemporary way for a range of clothes as well as cushions and other items for the home.” Hiroyuki’s wife Kaoli’s studio is hidden at the end of a wisteria clad mews in the Grafenberger Wald area. Her critically acclaimed paintings and mixed media art are borne of an intense study of simplicity, nonduality and infinity. Across the city, former graffiti artist Klaus established Pretty Portal on Brunnenstrasse in 2007. His influential gallery represents emerging and established urban artists across Europe.

Later, architect Micky Damm of Studio Baukunst in the Bilk quarter will complete the circle. “We always try to develop circles. We want a client to have a bigger benefit than he would usually expect. And at the end of every project we want everyone to look with their eyes and say we would like to do another project. So that’s it. Those are the terms of the circle. We are developing properties for clients but we also support the subculture of artists and musicians. So you need the creatives and clubs to have this special space. And the other ones who pay full rent. This keeps a space alive. If you make these circles work then everyone is happy.” Everyone is happy. This is Düsseldorf turning full circle.

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Architecture Art Country Houses Design Developers Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

Lavender’s Blue + 1,000 Articles

Upward We Fly

The Tuamgraney born London based novelist Edna O’Brien once remarked, “There’s a very interesting thing about memory and exile. It is only when you leave someone or something that the full power if you like, the performance of it is in you, it’s inside you. So separation brings the emotions and ultimately a book. I think a book is the accumulation of emotions written in a particular, hopefully musical, way. It’s a beautiful feeling actually; it’s like the whole influx of something that is stronger than memory. Of course, it’s memory but you’re back in it, not writing it secondhand. Again, that counts for a certain derangement.”

It all started with Cliveden. In September 2012, we received an invitation to stay in the Berkshire hotel but as hard copy publications back then were disappearing faster than Veuve Cliquot at one of our soirées, we came up with the idea of publishing an article online. And so Lavender’s Blue was born. The name has triple derivation after our home (“Your house is so cinematic!” declares film director Stephan Pierre Mitchell), our location and the song by Marillion. Before long, every PR in London and further afield learned we always turn up, give good party, and even better copy. Although five parties in one day starting with an 11am Champagne reception for New York thinker John Mack in the Rosewood Hotel was pushing it even by our standards. Actually, it all really began in April 1995 with a column House of the Month in Ulster Architect magazine, edited and published by the bold and brave and brilliant Anne Davey Orr. But that’s a whole other story.

While most events are one-offs, from a vanishing crystal coach at Ascot to a vanishing guest on the Orient Express, others would become annual events. If the preview of Masterpiece (in Royal Hospital Chelsea grounds) was an early summer hit each year, the Boutique Hotel Awards (in Merchant Taylor’s Hall) would quickly become a midwinter highlight. Fortunately Masterpiece has been replaced by The Treasure House Fair and WOW!house and we’ve landed ourselves on their preview lists. We’re also proving a hit at the annual International Media Marketplace.

Behind the curtain. That’s our forte. And we don’t just mean peeping round the iron variety (think Gdańsk). We’re not only through the gates: we’re over the threshold. We gain access where others dare not tread. If it’s an Irish country house, we’ll stay with the owners and explore the cellars and attics – preferably when they’re tucked up in their fourposter (Temple House). We’ll pop into the kitchen to see what’s really going on whether in Le Bristol or Comme Chez Soi. We’ll talk to the lady of the manor and a millworker (Sion Mills). Sometimes it takes a village to raise an article: in Castletownshend the fun began over breakfast at The Castle continuing through public houses and private houses up Main Street before ending back in The Castle by dawn.

If “design” is the mauve thread that sews Lavender’s Blue together, “celebration of life” is our way of banishing anything mentally blue. Illuminated by art and architecture, fashion and the Divine, we’re mad for life, channelling that literary derangement. But if it ain’t good, it don’t appear. Simple. At the opposite end of the spectrum, some events are far too private to be published such as an impresario salon recital in one of London’s grandest houses surrounded by more Zoffanys than The National Gallery owns while sampling the owners’ South African wine cellar. Or a party in Corke Lodge, County Wicklow, with more diplomats per square metre than Kensington Palace Gardens being serenaded by the Whiffenpoofs on the folly gladed lawn.

Lavender’s Blue is all about places and people so we rarely do personal. You won’t read how we were catastrophically frogmarched out of The Lanesborough (too much catwalking) or categorically told to pipe down in Launceston Place (too much caterwauling). Or the full story of hijinks with the model Parees which one friend described as sounding like an escapade from an Armistead Maupin short story. Original writing and original photography – and occasionally original drawing (from a two minute sketch of Mountainstown House to a 10 hour floor plan of Derrymore House) – are our creative cornerstones. We never plagiarise except from ourselves: to quote from one of our most read articles, Beaulieu House, “Lavender’s Blue is the brilliant coated edition of universal facts, riveting mankind, bringing nice and pretty events.” We’ll coin the odd phrase too from “Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder” to “You can’t be this fabulous and not make a few enemies!”

What’s our literary style? Well we’re not paid up members of Plain English for starters. Lord Wolfe would blanche at such opening gambits as, “There’s nothing standard in The Standard” or “Mary Martin London fashion is more than an antinomic macédoine: it is a semiotic embrace of science and conviction made manifest in materiality, tactility and sartorial disruption”. There are a quarter of a million English words to choose from (compared to a mere 100,000 in French and a meagre 85,000 in Chinese) so why reach for simplicity when you can stretch the lexicon? We don’t like to namedrop but as Daphne Guinness shared with us about her lyrics at a party in Notting Hill, “There are some words I just really like the sound of!” A picture tells 1,000 words and sometimes we’ll deliver 1,000 words and 1,000 pictures. But how can you keep the shutter open when you’re cherishing Chatsworth or roaming round Rochester? We’re not just about obvious glitz and glamour. So we frequent Hôtel Meurice in Paris and Hôtel Meurice in Calais. We’ve explored Georgian Bath and Georgian Dover. Doubling down on clichés is avoided except in derision while downing Chapel Down south of the Kent Downs.

How long does an article take to prepare? Some flow with automatic writing on a commute or in bed or in the bath in almost unconscious reverie. Others take decades. Mourne Park House started with a memorable visit in 1992 (the boathouse collapsed and gracefully slid into the lake mid morning coffee) and continued with return visits up to 2021 (by then the house was badly burnt). Crevenagh House was photographed over two decades in every season from heavy snow to scorching sunshine. We visited Gunnersbury Park four times over a London heatwave to capture it morning, noon, evening, and after supper. We also vacationed at Murlough four times, Irish Sea hopping in search of elusive sunlight. Montevetro and Marlfield both first appeared in Ulster Architect before being resurrected on Lavender’s Blue. Marlfield is the work of genius architect Alfred Cochrane with later lodges by the talented Albert Noonan. And on that note, John O’Connell’s work (Montalto) and tours (Ranger’s House) have added an abundance of sparkle to Lavender’s Blue.

We’re always up for top drawer collaborations: polo in Buenos Aires; the Government in Montenegro; Audi in Istanbul; Boutique Hotels Club in Bruges; Guggenheim in Bilbao; Rare Champagne in Paris. Did we mention Paris? The friendliest city in the world! As long as you’re in the right set, of course. We know our French, spring, red and rings. Oh, and we’re easily dragooned to fashion shows stretching the bailiwick especially when it comes to fashion artist Mary Martin London. Vintage models (Goodwood, Carmen dell’Orefice and Pattie Boyd), modern models (Esther Blakley, Janice Blakley and Katie Ice – all beautiful, all gazelles), royalty (Queen Ronke and Catherine Princess of Wales) and pop star royalty (Heather Small) have all enjoyed Lavender’s Blue exposure. There are even occasional segues into filming (Newzroom Afrika and English Heritage) and the dreaded bashing of ivories (Rabbit).

The current culmination of Lavender’s Blue is an exquisitely printed hardback coffee table book of substance on the Holy Land. The first edition of SABBATH PLUS ONE was an instant sellout at Daunt Books Marylebone. It’s now on the coffee tables of all the best homes – including a certain Clarence House. Oh yes, King Charles III is really enjoying his copy. “Your most thoughtful gesture is greatly appreciated …” So it’s time for the second edition. Same high quality print with a reddish burgundy rather than navy blue hard back hand stitched fabric cover. We’re still gonna vaunt about Daunt. Only the finest. In all the best libraries now, not least earning its stripes at Abbey Leix House and Pitchford Hall. And lobbies: The American Colony Hotel and The Jaffa.

We do love our triple Michelin starred places (L’Ambroisie, Lasarte, Core). Champagne! Foam! Truffle! While most of the restaurants we have visited are still thriving, unknowingly at the time, Lavender’s Blue would become an archive for quite a few. Aquavit, Bank Westminster and Zander Bar, Duddell’s, Farmacy, Galvin at Windows in The Hilton Park Lane, The Gas Station (one of our regular rendezvous with fellow gourmand Becks), Hello Darling, Marcus Wareing’s Tredwell’s, 8 Mount Street, Nuala, Plateau, Rex Whistler at Tate Britain, San Lorenzo, Senkai, Tom Kemble at Bonham’s, and Typing Room all in London have disappeared. So have Scheltema in Brussels, Le Détroit in Calais, The Black Douglas in Deal, The Table in Broadstairs, l’Écrivain in Dublin, Cristal Room Baccarat in Paris, and Forage and Folk in Omagh.

Still, nothing tastes as good as skinny fries. It’s survival of the fattest! Impressive as it was, Embassy Gardens Marketing Suite was never built to last. Erarta Art Gallery, Fu Manchu nightclub (the real Annabel’s!) and The Green and Found gift shop are lost in the mists of time. We’d barely photographed Quinlan Terry’s 35 year old junior common room bungalow at Downing College before the wrecker’s ball entered the site. We’re already missing our perfumer neighbour Sniff.

Even sadder, we have become the repository for final curtain interviews. Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors magazine and Anna Wintour’s first boss, the 9th Marquess of Waterford and the musician Diana Rogers entertained us – and hopefully you – with their end of life witticisms. David George, a reader of our Diana in Savannah article wrote, “I was married to her for 10 years and we were together for more than two decades. When you look in the sky she is the brightest star that you will ever see! I love you sweet middle class princess! Rest in peace, all my love, David.” We featured artist Trevor Newton’s final solo show and fashion designer Thierry Mugler taking his au revoir bow at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs Paris. Now historic photographs of model Misty Bailey appeared on Lavender’s Blue. Lindy Guinness, the last Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava, shared thoughts at one of her last townhouse parties full of people one should know like the international tastemaker Charles Plante. Beresford Neill reminisced on early 20th century Tyrella. And of course, two memorial pieces to the much missed Dorinda, Lady Dunleath. The last book launch of Dame Rosalind Savill, the inspirational scholar of European decorative arts and visionary museum director of the Wallace Collection, is another moving memory now frozen in time.

Readers’ comments are always of interest. Standout messages include a painting request to Ballyfin; advice on the best photographic viewing point at Dungiven Castle; revealing a shared love of Mary Delany or the Mitfords; a discussion of the meaning of Rue Monsieur; Samarès Manor relatives trying to contact each other during a Jersey storm; and an unreported baby drowning in a mansion swimming pool in Sandwich Bay. Mount Congreve attracted interesting comments including from James Sweeney who wrote, “I worked in Mount Congreve Estate for many years as a Private Chef to the Congreves. It was a joy and a pleasure and has given me cherished memories. Mr Congreve was an amazing man and I owe him a great deal for his wisdom that he kindly let me benefit from.”

Ewelina from Beauty on the Cliff poetically scribed, “Waterford is my home since 17 years and Mount Congreve was always my soft point. The moment when you enter the place is simply magical. I’ve been inside the house recently, just before yesterday. I was inside of the Blue Wedgwood Room … well … only the pale blue walls and the beautiful but sadly empty china cabinets reminded me about past grandeur of this place. It’s really really heartbreaking to see the empty rooms, stripped from everything … even the curtains … the books all over the floor in the library … totally without the respect for Mr Congreve. I hope that Waterford City Council didn’t forget that was someone else’s home. As Mr Yeats said, ‘Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.’ Thank you so much for your review. Kindest regards from Waterford.” Sara Stainsby messaged, “Really interesting essay on Stapleford Park. My great grandparents worked there, my grandmother was born there and was married in the church. In the 70s I visited my great grandparents when they lived in a flat above the stables …” Birthday wishes (Portrait) and restoration concerns (Barden Towers) are always welcome. Even more welcome was a Champers accompanied poem hand delivered to the state dining room (Hartwell House).

There are direct messages too: “I came across your Lavender’s Blue series starting from Auchinleck then Crevenagh House and Tullan Strand. I can see from your McClelland connection that you have an interest in Northern Ireland including Donegal … I found that your articles on architecture address the most erudite, meticulous and expansive aspects of the subject so perhaps the work of James Taylor in late Georgian times will fall beneath the range of your interest in the style and proportions of symmetrical Palladian buildings.” We jumped straight in a car to Islington. Likewise when tipped off about Stockwell Park. A reader enjoyed our “wonderful commentary on various aspects of Ballyshannon … tis wonderful to share your thoughts about my hometown”. We’ll accept high praise from Ireland’s greatest host: “I just love your articles striking notes of deepest erudizione to soprano and coloratura gossip! I’m so glad you were the catalyst to my party and I can’t believe it went so well.”

Amazing Grace Point inspired a declaration of faith: “Lough Swilly and Fort Dunree is one of the most wonderful places in Ireland to visit, and especially to look out across the waters where so many great ships have sailed. But most of all – to ponder the words of Amazing Grace written there by John Newton. His miraculous conversion credited to his mother’s prayers. She never gave up, like my mother, who never gave up but prayed me into the Kingdom.” Messages come from above and down under: “I hope you don’t mind me emailing you but I happened to walk into a beautiful graveyard today in Picton, Australia, and happened to come across this one particular headstone. I was instantly intrigued as my grandparents were from Donegal in Ireland and I wanted to see if this was close? Anyway I just read about Mountjoy Square and when the area become established. I’m not sure but working out the dates I think this couple might have been some of the original inhabitants? I saw an article that you wrote and just wanted to share this with you – you may or may not appreciate it but I wanted to bring this couple home!” They’ve come home.

Artist and art restorer Denise Cook crosses the rare divide from comment provider to content provider sharing her expanse of knowledge from Pink Magnolias to the Rector of Stiffkey. So does Dr Roderick O’Donnell, world authority on all matters Pugin. Another reader turned writer, the ever erudite historian and patron of the arts Nicholas Sheaff, brought Gosford Castle completely (back) to life. “There is really too much to say,” to parrot Henry James in The Portrait of a Lady, 1881. Haud muto factum.

As Reverend Prebendary Andy Rider once quipped, “You do get around.” Amsterdam to Zürich, Brussels to Verona, Channel Island hopping, nowhere is safe from the Lavender’s Blue sagacity filled patrician treatment. As for our favourite place, that’s simple: Bunbeg Beach, especially at 10.30pm on a sun drenched midsummer night. Chronicling our times, we produce the material – and sometimes we are the material. But only when shot by the likes of top cinematographer Mina Hanbury-Tennyson-Choi and shoot the shoot supremo Simon Dutson. Striking a striking pose. Fading grandeur (the interior not the model).

“The whole earth is filled with awe at Your wonders; where morning dawns, where evening fades, You call forth songs of joy,” Psalm 65. Lavender’s Blue is between the bookends of everything that was and is to come. It’s about dealing with things as they are, not as they should be. We’re all about orchestrating a fresh approach, synthesising Baroque stridency with Palladian refinement. Our oeuvre is a sumptuous sequence of artistic compositions. On the frontline, turning to face the light. Mary Oliver always gets it right: Instructions for Living a Life, 2010, “Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it.” Thank you to all our readers. Thank you Council Bluffs. In the short now, to pluralise the words of the French Resistance fighter Simone Segouin, “We’d do it all again.”

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Art Design Fashion People

Heather Small + Brenda Emmanus + Andrew Eborn + Mary Martin London + Lavender’s Blue

That Jacket

Ever since Heather Small unleashed to the world her unbelievable vocal range with the ultimate Eighties remix Ride on Time (accurately described back then as “a payload of pure euphoria”), she’s been forever moving on up, projecting a pure renaissance under dreaming spires all the way to Itchycoo Park. As well as being the frontispiece of the internationally successful band M People for decades, Heather’s own career has remained stunningly stellar. Today Heather is dressed head to ankle in Mary Martin London. She’s working those Jimmy Choo heels.

Heather Small is the petite toned embodiment of empowerment blessed with an orchestra of a voice and a down to earth personality despite her megawatt presence. Yep, she’s just as stunning in person. “The love we have for each other should be regardless of colour or creed. I’ve grown up in a society that doesn’t reflect me. I’m a dark skinned black girl. I’m a proud sista! Everyone should be proud. I’m in control. I’m aware of who I am – I am very happy with that. Fashion means quite a lot to someone like me in the music industry. Fabric, cuts, the way fashion makes you feel.”

“I met Mary at a fundraising event. Mary spoke quite a lot – so do I! She’s got a wonderful brain. Mary is very very observant – any situation gives her inspiration. She reimagines her surroundings as a piece of clothing. A feeling, a vibration. That’s what I noticed about her. Mary’s clothes are ultra creative, a really good cut. It’s always about the bigger picture with her, more than fashion. There’s a bigger statement at the heart of them, what it’s like to be different, marginalised; she’s an inspiration. It’s more than apparel. It’s about sisterhood! Let’s laugh. Let’s have continuous applause by putting a crown on each other’s head! Above all have fun. Mary’s as mad as a box of frogs!”

“I do believe in God. We are put on earth to fulfil a purpose. We need to learn how to be the best to ourselves and each other. Take yourself to a higher place and touch others. I believe in the goodness of people. Always tell the truth because anyone who hears the truth whether they want it or not they take notice … Singing has been a passion all my life. Mary’s clothes represent me.”

Lawyer and television presenter Andrew Eborn adds to the infinite pool of talent today. Broadcaster and journalist Brenda Emmanus OBE was the lauded BBC’s Arts, Culture and Entertainment Correspondent for 18 years. Right now, she’s busy working on a range of projects including an ITV documentary to mark the late Princess Diana’s birthday. Brenda is a friend and client of Mary and is wearing one of her black and red striking creations. It accentuates her model looks. She knows Heather too. “I can’t remember exactly when I met Mary. I knew her on the scene, the celebrity community of people in my life network. Mary just appears in your life! Once she’s in she makes an impression. She’s a generous friend, an open person.”

“As a child I cut out dolls from magazines and dressed them up. I’ve very eclectic taste. My work in the newsroom is quite formal but my role allows me to be much freer to wear more what I like. I’m mainly a lover of dresses although I do love trousers – the androgynous look – too. I love dramatic dresses that really embrace fashion. I’m up for drama on stage but go casual at the weekend. I’m stimulated by the visual, beauty and art.”

“I love the childlike quality to Mary’s apparel. She doesn’t use design patterns; she just creates from the heart. Mary’s impulsive – she likes to try things like a child with paints. She’s passionate and curious about everything: Pop Art, the Renaissance, music. She works as an experimental artist. Like most geniuses she’s not afraid to try and fail. She takes you out of your comfort zone. Mary allows me to pull out my inner diva, to go wholly out: she’s all bells and whistles! She’s fearless with high drama and that’s what makes her fun, mad fun!”

“I host a lot of awards and red carpets. Two days before one of my events I needed something … and a ballgown appeared from nowhere! That’s what’s amazing about Mary, creating an outfit from scratch within a day or two. Thanks to her I looked great on stage presenting the Screen Nation Awards. Mary makes you try stuff you probably wouldn’t think of trying. She’s like a motor. But she values my opinion – we have an exchange of ideas.”

Mary is not a wallflower. She’s a whirlwind; you know when she’s present. I learned that Mary studied really late overcoming a challenging childhood through dreams and ambition. She’s found herself. She has a clear vision of what she is as a designer. Mary has a rightful place in the world of fashion. What she’s achieved in such a short time, going international! She sees joy in everything. A crazy but extraordinary woman! She’s very resilient. Self triumph over adversity.”

“Experience higher being. I have learnt to trust my inner voice, my intuition. Media is so impressed by the outer world but the inner one is so important. Life is a journey. Be true to your own spirituality. Surrender to the path the universe has mapped out for you. I meditate a lot for calm and peace. Be still – there’s so much to learn. Reset who you are. Value art, love, people, creativity. We’re not on this planet for a very long time.” After the day in the studio, as if to prove everyone right, Mary wins the African Continent’s Citation of Honour. Just like that. Ayekoo!

Heather is all smiles. “You look very cool.”

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Art Design Fashion Hotels Luxury People

The Londoner Hotel Leicester Square London + Halfpenny London Christmas Tree

The Most Brilliant Season

Kate Halfpenny, Founder of Halfpenny London, shares, “I design organically from the heart, experimenting with sumptuous fabrics, allowing myself the freedom to play with proportions and break the rules, creating beautiful pieces that excite me, push the boundaries and – more importantly – make you feel like the very best version of yourself when you wear them.” She adds about her eponymous bridalwear, “Halfpenny London has spent two decades dressing literally thousands of women for their wedding day.” And now it’s her turn to dress a Christmas tree for the reception of the world’s first super boutique hotel, The Londoner.

Gigantic bows made from repurposed bridal fabric cutoffs embody the designer’s dedication to conscious creations and the hotel’s commitment to conservation. Baubles are so last season. Hand drawn renderings on disks inspired by gold coins, a play on Kate’s surname, appear between the bows. Cocktails crafted with London perfumer Miller Harris’ bridal fragrance embrace the marriage theme. Yellow fin tuna and green pea canapés are fit for a wedding breakfast. Fashion into decorative taste, scent into taste, taste into art, this festive season is all about fabulous fusion. Nobody does it better than Halfpenny London. Nowhere does it better than The Londoner.

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Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Mary Martin London 10th Anniversary Show + Africa Fashion Week London 2024

The Relaunch of Modernity

Genesis to revelation, alpha to omega, 2014 to 2024, a decade of decadence, tenure insightfulness, a period of drama. Actress Vivienne Rochester proclaims: “In the beginning God created the heaven and the earth, and the earth was without form and void. And darkness was upon the face of the deep. And the Spirit of God moved upon the face of the waters. Life and the atmosphere that supports it underwent an extraordinary transformation. Life took a quantum leap from a single cell to a complex man. An awesome power on earth. Mother Earth supported mortal man. She said, ‘May the long time sun shine upon you, all love surround you and the pure light within you guide you on your way.’”

Vivienne announces, “From the time humans first walked the earth they have created and have been creative. We dance! We sing! We connect! We thrive! We evolve through our creativity and today we are privileged to see the creativity of Mary Martin London who uses the abundance of the earth, its cultures and its history to give context and storylines to her creations.” The fashion play begins in – where else? – the Garden of Eden floodlit by an illumination of Vincent van Gogh’s The Starry Night. But first, a short film of the unstoppable rise of the fashion artist told through her friends like singer songwriter Heather Small.

“I’m going to town for my 10th anniversary!” Mary had said a few months earlier over coffee in her south London atelier. Literally: Kensington Town Hall. “I’m bringing all the fashion – and so much more. It’s going to be an extravaganza of the arts. There’ll be artistic performances to accompany the highlights from my main collections: Fairytale; Hidden Queen; Queen of Africa; Blood, Sweat and Tears; Return, Black Excellence, Divine Intervention.”

Models strut down the catwalk in 50 sartorial masterpieces to a rapturous reception. The musical performances are as eclectic as the fashion. Hafsa Kazeem, a 12 year old musician, plays the African drum while Maxine Booth dances in contemporary waves of motion and emotion. Crossover soprano Emma Nuule delivers a breathtaking rendition of Giacomo Puccini’s O Mio Babbino Caro. Over a century after the opera Gianni Schicchi was first performed, she provides an enthralling A flat major musical interlude – 176 seconds – expressing the lyrical brilliance of Giovacchino Forzano’s libretto.

Singer Ashleigh Bankx performs her latest hit Miss You. Her sound is a fusion of influences from hip hop to sungura, a Zimbabwean genre of lead, rhythm and bass guitar melodies. Zimbabwean born London raised, Ashleigh started making music after finishing her law degree at Brunel University. Adasnoop mixes it up even more with her Afrobeats. Finally soul singer Jenessa Qua sings “I’m Every Woman” while Mary takes a bow before being joined by Queen Ronke and the full cohort of models.

Maxine also takes to the catwalk in one of the statement dresses. “I feel like I’ve known Mary for years,” she says afterwards, “even though this was my first show with her.” She dances, models, sings, presents and practises lymphatic drainage therapy. “Mary’s clothes are more than just elegant and sometimes sassy designs. They really make you feel good. Modelling requires a specific mindset. You have to be confident in who you are while letting the clothes shine. I’ve learnt to embrace my individuality without fear of judgment.” Such immediacy, such form, a proclivity of all existence itself.

One of the beautiful relationships Mary will later commend is her friendship with former accountant, organisational psychologist and ballerina Sue Elabor. They had a chance meeting while volunteering – Mary might be hugely creative and enormous fun but she takes her charitable work very seriously. She made The Green Ballerina for Sue. This outfit was showcased at the patrician Foreign and Commonwealth Office London photoshoot. Who could forget Swan Lake reverberating off the marble walls of Durbar Court as Sue peerlessly pirouetted one midsummer morning? The curtains of 10 Downing Street next door really were twitching.

Speaking at the US Embassy a few days before the opening show, HRM Queen Ronke Ademiluyi Ogunwusi, Founder of Africa Fashion Week London, recognised Mary’s contribution to the international arts world. “Mary was recently honoured by the Council of the City of Atlanta, Georgia, with a day named after her. It’s clear that the USA and UK can build bridges through diplomacy and fashion. Black history is an ongoing journey encompassing resilience, collaboration and creativity. It’s not merely a month long celebration. We can collectively honour our past, celebrate the present and inspire a future where our cultural heritage is respected and valued beyond borders.”

Afterwards, Mary would reflect, “God blessed me – He wanted this show to happen. I am very happy with it. I’m always to the left. I brought personality and all the arts to it. I wanted more than just a catwalk. It’s been a beautiful ride full of beautiful relationships.” Mary said she would like to give special thanks to: family and God, Sue Elabor, Stuart Blakley, HRM Queen Ronke Ademiluyi-Ogunwusi The 1st of Ile-Ife Kingdom, Africa Fashion Week London, Adil Oliver Sharif, Smade, Reuben Joseph, Nick Galbusera, Allan Henry, Cecil Adjalo, Jeremie Alamazani, Monika Schaible, Lia Boothman, Litehouse, Vermondo Boshoff, Shaun Bailey Baron Bailey of Paddington, and every model, photographer, makeup artist and stylist past and present. All the while dancing, singing, connecting, thriving. On the frontline. Mary Martin London embodies Psalm 139:14, “I praise You because I am fearfully and wonderfully made; Your works are wonderful, I know that full well.” The haunch of eternity.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Design Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

Marlfield House Hotel + The Duck Restaurant Gorey Wexford

A Bon Mot Cast in Stone

Margaret and Laura Bowe inherited good taste from their parents,” states architect Alfred Cochrane. He worked on Marlfield House Hotel over a 15 year period starting in 1982. “Mary their mother has incredible style and she wanted more accommodation. My work at Marlfield is Postmodern. I wanted the Conservatory to be a room away from the house, not directly attached. It’s inspired by Richard Turner’s  Botanic Gardens Belfast and the National Botanic Gardens Dublin glasshouses as well as Brighton Pavilion. The pond front of the single storey wing is designed to resemble a French hunting lodge. I had to insert a fire wall into the Staircase Hall of the original house. The Bowes bought superb 18th century fireplaces like the one in the Library. Great artists were brought on board: Marina Guinness and Victoria Ormesby-Gore created the Print Room and Nat Clements painted the murals in the Entrance Hall. Mary’s husband Ray dammed a stream to create the pond.”

Alfred’s work augments Marlfield’s presence both physically and aesthetically. Creative clients helped. “We’re all mad about design,” declares Laura Bowe. “Our family all have a good eye. I worked in Alfred’s practice for a while.” Mary and Ray bought the house and 15 hectares from the widowed Lady Courtown in 1977. It was built in 1852 by the 4th Earl of Courtown as a dower house. The house is tall, slim and elegant. Three storeys: four bay entrance front; four bay corresponding garden front with a two bay breakfront; and two bay bowed side elevation. The other side adjoins a two storey ancillary wing. Faced with rugged semi coursed rubblestone and red brick quoins. A parapet free pitched roof over deep eaves is punctuated by tall chimneystacks. The 5th Earl swapped some of the ground floor multi pane windows for plate glass sashes in 1866. “Courtown House was across the road,” comments Laura. “It was sold to the Irish Tourist Board in 1948 and pulled down.” Jeremy Williams records in his 1994 guide Architecture In Ireland 1837 to 1921, “Courtown House, the seat of  the Earls of Courtown, was much modified during the 19th century … William Burn was involved in remodelling the house.” The 9th Earl, James Patrick Montagu Winthrop Stopford, recently enjoyed a weekend at Marlfield.

The vivid reinvention of the former dower house, a joyous revivication, begins at the entrance to the grounds. In place of traditional stone pillars are Alfred’s whimsical wrought iron columns supporting wry wiry pineapples. This design is shadowed in a gazebo on the lawn. The entrance portico of the house bridges the gap between Neoclassicism and Postmodernism. There’s a layering of stylistic language at play, apropos for a polyglot architect. A Doric centrepiece steps forward from smooth stone bays; it’s deconstructed to become not so much a broken pediment as a broken temple ‘glued’ together with glazing. Beyond lies the vast semicircular Entrance Hall partly mirrored in plan by a bowed external water feature. A picture gallery connects the Entrance Hall to the State Suites of the single storey wing: the French Room, Georgian Room, Morland Room, Print Room, Sheraton Room and Stopford Room. “Inspiration for the Print Room came from Mariga Guinness’s work at Leixlip Castle and of course Lady Louisa Connolly’s famous Print Room at Castletown,” notes Margaret. “When the doors are pulled across the bed alcove, wedding ceremonies are often performed in this room.”

There are another 13 bedrooms, all with marble bathrooms, upstairs in the main house. Guests can dream and more in coronet, fourposter and half tester beds. The Conservatory on the garden front balances the State Room wing on the entrance front. History, luxury, harmony, geometry and symmetry: all are important at Marlfield, a billet-doux to hospitality. The Conservatory, an adventurous addition, is a tripartite triumph in cast iron and glass. A central projection balloons up to a storey high ogee shaped dome. The vertical frame of distinctive lattice metal pilasters topped by stylised Ionic capitals is as stylish as anything produced in the Regency era. The Ionic order with cerebral associations bestowed upon it by Vitruvius has long carried intellectual heft. Soaneian mirrored cornicing, cills and starburst ceiling roses reflect the omnipresent brilliance.

“I worked with Alfred and his business partner Jeremy Williams in the summer vacations while I was studying architecture,” says Albert Noonan. “I was involved in drawing the magnificent curvilinear Conservatory. Extending a period property is full of design challenges. Alfred tackled these challenges with confidence, building on historic references to create a statement piece that harmonises well with the original building both inside and out. The Conservatory is a joy to walk around and the interior with frescoed walls brings the beautiful gardens into the Dining Room. Stylistically it has not dated and looks as good today as when it was first built.” It reminds us of sitting in the conservatory of Ballyfin, County Laois, or Rokeby Hall, County Louth.

Albert reminisces, “As a young architect I was impressed by the uplifting experience of visiting Alfred’s projects. His designs deliver on functionality but they also incorporate creative details that add a sense of intrigue and visual interest. This approach to design influenced my career – I endeavour to create designs that not only meet clients’ brief of functionality but also create appropriate environments that are uplifting and pleasurable experiences for the end user.”

In a mark of approval, a continuum of tradition, an aligment of the story arc, a refinement of the built form, he would return to Marlfield to design the restoration and conversion of the coach house, potting shed and gardener’s tool shed into The Duck. The hotel and restaurant share the same avenue but then it forks off into different, albeit abutting, worlds. “The Duck is a meeting point for all directions in good or bad weather,” Margaret clarifies. “People come in the summer to sit on the terrace. People come in the winter to be near the fire. It sits 100 for lunch and 120 for dinner.” There’s a rustic feel inside: exposed stone walls and timber panelling. “The beauty of the restaurant is it overlooks the kitchen garden. There’s a kilometre long walk around the meadow. This whole place is in use, all 36 acres.”

Two years later, Albert designed the remodelling of the tiny Gatelodge, transforming it into a spacious two bedroom single storey residence. “It’s extremely popular,” confirms Margaret. “People never stay once.” A pair of simple gate pillars marking the entrance to the Gatelodge garden is repeated in the hedge opposite lining the avenue: that symmetry in action. He recalls, “The original Gatelodge was a classic and modest design and the extended building retains these attributes externally. Internally, we created visual interest through elevated ceilings and a varied palette of materials and textures including exposed brick walls, timber panelling, stone flooring and earthy muted colours. Laura has a great eye for furniture and fixtures that convey a sense of luxury and comfort.” An opaque circular ceiling window – like the one over the Staircase Hall of Alfred’s County Wicklow home – lights the Lobby leading into the large open plan Reception Room.

“Following on from the Gatelodge project, the Bowes wanted to provide more bedroom accommodation,” remarks Albert. “Rather than extend the main house it was decided to provide five freestanding Pond Suites. They’re of a contemporary design intended to complement the woodland setting. Each Suite has large windows and a terrace orientated to capture great views over the pond and island.” Margaret adds, “They’re called The Peacock, The Fox, The White Heron and The Blue Heron. We named the two bedroom suite The Nest.”

He continues, “The Pond Suites are constructed in a lightweight timber frame walling sitting on bored pile foundations to minimise disruption to the ground beneath. The floors are floating just above ground level. Main exterior walls are clad in cedar which will transform into a silver grey finish over time. The rear walls and monopitched roofs are clad in black coated zinc. We used Crittal steel windows. The monopitched design maximises the height of the façade glazing.”

As night falls and sun sets, dinner in the Conservatory hits more high notes than a Wexford Festival Opera diva. First there’s the prelude of parmesan and spice bread which sides the Courgette and Goat’s Cheese Canapé. Mozart in a mouthful. Seared Irish Scallops (roast apple purée, Granny Smith crisp) form the brisk and lively first movement of this incredible edible symphony. Pachelbel on a plate. Roast Onion Soup is lyrically relaxing. Bach in a bowl. Fillet of Pan Seared Halibut (concasse of tomato, sugar snap peas, mussels, lemon beurre blanc) ups the tempo and pumps the mood music. Tchaikovsky on the tastebuds. Marlfield Garden Rhubarb Millefeuille (vanilla pastry cream, candied ginger) provides a rollocking finale. Pudding is La Passione. Encore will be breakfast and encore une fois coffee and shortbread while the car pulls up for departure.

“I joined the team in 1994 after working in event management in London,” Margaret concludes. “Laura arrived back in 2004 after leaving the film industry. She is responsible for brand development and I take care of the sales department. On a daily basis, we manage the hotel together. Ireland is essentially a rural country and I’ve lived in the countryside for much of my life. My love of nature is my way of expressing the attachment, this Irish identity.” A tortoiseshell runs past into the herbaceous border. Margaret mourns, “George the peacock and the ginger cat died a couple of years ago. In July and August, George was always crowing, calling out for a lady. There are three cats now. They just appear! There are lots of birds too.” On cue, a heron swoops out of the pond, past two gliding ducks.

Five years after opening, Marlfield became a member of the coveted Relais et Châteaux group. Add sustainability to its list of qualities. The Gatelodge has triple glazed windows and a heat pump. That open plan layout is never draughty. “We strive to constantly reduce our carbon footprint,” assures Margaret. “We operate on green energy and are moving towards biogas. The Pond Suites are close to zero carbon. Our menus use local produce within a radius of a few kilometres. Over the last two years we have planted at least 150 trees.”

Courtown House long gone, Marlfield House is in its golden era. The dowager is now the doyenne.

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

Pont Street + 11 Cadogan Gardens Hotel Chelsea London

Beautiful as a Story

“Architectural fashion is so often a reaction to what went immediately before. There’s even a perceptible difference between the father A W Pugin and the son E W Pugin’s work. The second generation architect’s designs are more rationalised,” believes artist and architectural publisher Anne Davey Orr. “Later, the use of concrete in the 20th century would issue in a much more open expression of materials and structure.”

The penultimate decades of the last two centuries both stuck to something of a “more is more” mantra. A sort of turn of the century syndrome. Eclecticism gone wild. Not without honour and slightly mad. Pont Street for the 1880s and 90s; Postmodernism for the 1980s and 90s. Out went conformity and goodbye to context; in came variety and hello to contrast. It was the ever inventive cartoonist Osbert Lancaster who came up with the name Pont Street Dutch due to the style flourishing in Chelsea. It could easily have been North German Revival, Flemish Revival or New Queen Anne. Or even Hans Town or Cadogan. Sir John Betjeman abbreviated it to Pont Street, making it even more geographically precise. He calls it the “new built red as hard as the morning gaslight” in his poem The Arrest of Oscar Wilde at the Cadogan Hotel. These days the SW postcodes are as golden as they are terracotta.

That’s the name explained but who invented the style? Architect John James Stevenson claimed Queen Anne as his creation. The practice Ernest George and Harold Peto produced some of the most overblown examples in Harrington Gardens but really the style was to become synonymous with the dominating work of Norman Shaw. Pont Street rang the death knell, scrawled the writing on the wall, beckoned the banshee for regular terraces, heralding an asymmetric age of individualism. “Look at me, look at me!” screams each house as the rooflines tipsily whoosh and swoosh over more Dutch gables than Keizersgracht. Against the navy canvas of a sun drenched winter’s morning, and to be repeated nine years later on a sun drenched summer’s morning, the red brick dressed with white stone renders Pont Street a patriotic tricolour.

Such strength of character allows 20th century blips such as the picture window spanning the penthouse of 41 Lennox Gardens to be immersed into the wider townscape. The houses celebrate their birthdays: “1884” shouts 25 Lennox Gardens from metre tall letters on its third floor. A few doors up, 43 Lennox Gardens announces to the world it’s a year younger. A wander in wonder along the streets of SW1 and SW3, the blessed boulevards of the Cadogan Estate, throws up a maximalist impure visual feast, an aesthetic eyeful, for the devil and angels are in the detail.

At a glance, here are some of the hyperactive highlights. Keyhold silhouette broken pediment copper domes in Sloane Gardens. Double decker dormers in Culford Gardens. Witch’s hat copper turrets where Draycott Place meets Blacklands Terrace. Quoined porthole windows peering out of 54 to 58 Draycott Place. A neo Elizabethan fretwork loggia hugging 3 Cadogan Gardens. Pierless Brighton balconies clinging onto 85 to 87 Cadogan Gardens. A château mansard atop 89 Cadogan Gardens. Twin Queen Anne fanlights surmounting the doorcase of 105 Cadogan Gardens. Stumpy Ionic pilasters holding up egg and dart capitals framing the porch of 60 Cadogan Square. A pair of ballsy busty bulbous oriel windows on the side elevation of 63 Cadogan Square. And that’s just at a glance.

Pont Street the address bisects Cadogan Place Gardens under the watchful eyes of the 18 storeyed 1961 Jumeirah Carlton Tower. But the great swathe of red is mostly found between Sloane Street and Lennox Gardens. The extremities of Pont Street dive back into stuccoland. A morning of architectural investigation must be balanced by an afternoon of gourmet indulgence. Historically, afternoon tea was the outcome of dinner slipping to beyond 7pm by the opening years of the 19th century. Hiccupping ladies at first surreptitiously downed tea and gobbled cake in their boudoirs after midday. By 1842, trailblazing trendsetting taboo busting gal about castle Anna Maria Russell, 7th Duchess of Bedford, was bolshily dispensing tea in her sitting room to fill the gap created by the evening meal becoming later and later thanks to gaslighting. Fast forward to the Pont Street era and both sexes were merrily letting rip into cucumber sandwiches and scones with clotted cream in the drawing room or on the lawn. Where better then to indulge than 11 Cadogan Gardens, the hotel launched by the eponymous Estate in 2012? A Darjeeling fuelled calorific high awaits: Carrot Cake Explosion; Chocolate Fudge Bar; Lemon Drizzle Loaf; Macarons; Raspberry Orange Battenburg.

The first part of the hotel’s name is mildly misleading: the reception rooms and 54 bedrooms are spread across four townhouses (“5, 7, 9 and 11 Cadogan Gardens” being something of a mouthful). Bright red brick with white trimmings, in some places to stripy effect (more bands than a 12th of July march); terracotta tracery and scrolls; rusticated Doric columns and shortened Ionic columns; rectangular metal balconies and semicircular brick balconies; windows of every frame and shape and type (more casements than a West Belfast cemetery; and again more sashes than a 12th of July march) and orientation (more than a Pride march in London); oriels, chamfered bays and rectangular bays; flat, round arched and segmental arched windows; mini, Dutch and swan neck gables; 11 Cadogan Gardens is as dynamic Pont Street as it gets. The last part of the hotel’s name is wildly accurate. It faces a densely treed green square. The only two London members of the exclusive Relais et Châteaux group are 11 Cadogan Gardens and its sister hotel further round the square, The Chelsea Townhouse.
The interior is just as eclectic. A maze of lacquered cloistered sequestered panelled hallways and lobbies and corridors and passageways leads into the consciously picturesque opalescent Drawing Room. Starched linen at the ready, afternoon tea awaits, designed to instil a divine inertia into the remainder of a stimulating day. Decked and bedecked, espaliered and jardinièred, the Terrace is tucked between the townhouses and the mews. Alive with remote anticipation, it’s a place to dwell on the meaningfulness of life. Another surprising place is the Versailles inspired Mirrored Hall, a space designed to contemplate the advantage of beauty. Monochromatic photographs of supermodels line the descending staircase to the basement gym. Oil paintings of aristos line the ascending staircase to the bedrooms. Souls of different ages bordering the universe in process of consummation. This hotel has a distinct and dynamic personality, one that is warm and sensuous.

Over to the father of town planning Manning Robertson of Huntington Castle, County Carlow, for some pontification on not just Pont Street but classification itself. Everyday Architecture, 1948, “Definitions of architecture are as unsatisfactory as any other expositions of the aim and meaning of the arts; but if architecture is to be alive at all it must clearly involve the erection of buildings to suit the demands of the period, and the embellishment of those buildings according to the dictates of the materials in use, the treatment being a direct reflection of the outlook of the epoch, based of course upon past work, insofar as it is applicable. We cannot say that the 19th century, which produced principally a dead copying of the past, did not reflect itself truly; it was, on the contrary, amazingly accurate in illustrating that the worship of material prosperity is not consistent with a high level of art.”

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Design Fashion People

Misty Bailey +

And Then Came Paradise 

Some people suit blonde hair. Not many suit brown, blue or blonde hair. There was only one Misty Bailey. The Jamaican British beauty packed a lot into her three decades. She started modelling aged 15 and soon was the face of campaigns for Adidas, Balmain, Bottega Veneta, Ellesse, L’Oréal, Louis Vuitton, Revlon, the list goes on. Misty also modelled for London’s leading fashion designer Mary Martin London. A British Vogue regular, her wider achievements were recognised when she was appointed Ambassador for the UK Parliamentary Society for Arts, Fashion and Sports. It was always a thrill to chat to Misty backstage at Africa Fashion Week London before she took the catwalk by storm. Some people light up a room. Not many light up a show.

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Architecture Art Country Houses Design Developers Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

The Gunton Arms Thorpe Market + West Runton Beach Norfolk

Why Bee Aye Ate Al

It’s so exclusive there’s a two month waiting list for a weekend meal and a six month wait for a bedroom. There’s a no vehicle policy – a green path crosses 400 hectares of rolling parkland to the front porch (the car park is hidden behind a copse). It has one of the finest private collections of contemporary art in Britain. The ground floor rooms are decorated by England’s best known restaurant designer. The owner is married to an American supermodel. Welcome to The Gunton Arms. Cheers!

The story starts in 1982 when property developer Kit Martin, businessman Charles Harbord-Hamond and art dealer Ivor Braka purchased the Gunton Park Estate and restored the buildings and land. The main house, Charles’s family home, was carved into several properties. Kit’s father Sir Leslie Martin ran the Department of Architecture at the University of Cambridge along with Sir Colin St John “Sandy” Wilson in the Modernist mid 20th century.

The Gunton Arms, a long low two storey building faced with grey stone and decorated with fretwork gables, was originally Steward’s Farm, a shooting lodge attached to Gunton Hall. In 2011, Ivor launched The Gunton Arms, a pub with 16 bedrooms, in the Victorian building and the rest is history. Or at least a new chapter of history.

Jonathan Meades writes in The Plagiarist in the Kitchen (2017), “Nothing needs reinterpreting. Nothing needs a ‘twist’. The wheel has already been invented. The best a cook can do is improve on what’s there – that usually means stripping out redundant ingredients. It means going back to the very foundations, of starting from zero in order to reach a point that has been reached many times before.” The menu at this pub takes a leaf out of Jonathan’s book. There may be dishes like Portwood asparagus and feta salad with shallot dressing on the menu but traditional pub grub like cod fishfingers with chips and mushy peas also makes an appearance.

Knightsbridge based Ivor explains, “I’m closely involved but not every day. Luckily I took the advice of Mark Hix, former Head Chef of Le Caprice, J Sheekey and The Ivy among others. Mark effectively gave me his Head Chef Stuart Tattersall and Simone, Stuart’s partner, to take on my first pub. They’d wanted to start their own pub in the country but decided under Mark’s encouragement to join me.” Steaks are cooked on an open fire. St Véran burgundy tops the wine list.

Who better to do an impromptu tour of the pub artwork than the owner himself? His story. “What is common to all of the pieces is that they are made by people who have a passionate commitment to what they create. They are not for decoration only to just be easy on the eye; they are to stimulate, to provoke thought and to evoke emotion.” The list of artists reads like a guide to 20th and 21st century art from figuration to abstraction: Frank Auerbach, David Bailey, Tom of Finland, Lucian Freud, Gilbert and George, Damien Hirst.

But Ivor doesn’t neglect local and historic connections either: “At high level over the wood panelling in the entrance hall there are photographs relating to the history of Gunton, Gunton Hall and especially the Suffield family and its connection with the Royal Family and Lillie Langtry, the actress and mistress of the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII. Langtry was the most celebrated beauty of her day. Whilst the Prince of Wales was staying at Gunton Hall she stayed at the shooting lodge to be close to him.” The current Prince of Wales frequents the pub. History repeating itself. “To one side of the front door is a work by Hans Peter Feldmann, an artist who specialises in adding the unexpected to old paintings he has found in antique shops. Here, he has given a formally posed 19th century lady a black eye, a clear reference to domestic violence. It’s a picture that’s comic but with obvious serious intent.” History, updated.

The Elk Room is the main bar and restaurant. Ivor says, “This room is dominated by the massive fossilised skull of a Giant Irish Elk, the largest deer that ever lived. It was found in a peat bog in Ireland and is over 10,000 years old. I bought it at an auction in Ireland and it was formerly in Adare Manor, a Gothic house designed by Pugin for the Earl of Dunraven.” Like several major Irish country houses, such as Carton in County Kildare, Adare Manor in County Limerick is now a five star hotel resort.

“In the corner of the room are a series of lithographs depicting alcoholic women and their children by Paula Rego. Born in Portugal but working all her life in England, Rego is regarded as one of Britain’s most distinguished artists. Her work has a dark humour and complexity of purpose redolent of the tragicomic vision of Goya or Cervantes. These lithographs are the result of a request from a wine producer to design memorable labels for their product. Rego responded by letting her imagination run riot with this series focusing on lonely women with babies desperately turning to drink.” The company never did use them. Too memorable.

The Elk Room flows into The Emin Room. “Addiction is again a running theme in this interior: the addiction to love and emotional need which comes over strongly in Tracey Emin’s three neon works Trust Me, I Said Don’t Practice On Me, and Everything for Love,” Ivor relates. “All these works directly convey a need for sincerity, for total emotional commitment and a huge fear of the possibility of the lack of it. The neons are executed in the artist’s elegantly distinctive forward sloping handwriting. To me, Tracey Emin, with her total dedication to her work and her directness, is one of the most impressive artists working today.” Martin Brudnizki designed the downstairs rooms; Robert Kime, the upstairs.

Racy humour is all around. Falling Leaves by Jonathan Yeo, famous for his red portrait of Charles III, is actually a collage of cutouts from porn magazines. Ivor jokes it’s “clitorati”. As a male appendage counterpart, a metal doorknob drops the K. There’s a chromatically vivid image by British photographer Miles Aldridge of the Buffalo New York born supermodel Kristen McMenamy. She rose to success in the 1990s with her ethereal alternate beauty. Kristen is a Donatella Versace favourite and friend of Linda Evangelista.

Yet there’s also serious commentary. He finishes, “Kitaj constantly involves his Jewishness in his art and this small portrait derives from a famous photograph of Hitler’s admirer and Nazi sympathiser Unity Mitford. Kitaj is deliberately implicating the English upper classes with antisemitism and an admiration for the German fascist regime.” History must not repeat itself.

“I will defend the fashion world to the end because I know it personally,” opines Kristen, who is Ivor’s wife. “From the outside it might look like a vanity project of marketing and capitalism. But from the inside it’s a lot of great people. I don’t think I was specially phenomenal looking – because I wasn’t. I had to work a little bit harder than the others. You look at some girls and they’re just so incredibly beautiful. But some of those beautiful girls don’t last because they don’t have something, that magic. I would say with the top girls you gotta have something more than just the way you look.”

The following morning, a stroll along the windswept West Runton Beach, which as the crow flies is about as close to Amsterdam as London, waves splashing “barely suggestive of the violence of the deep” (James Baldwin, Another Country, 1963), is like being immersed in an Edward Seago watercolour. Now that’s another artist whose work should be hung at The Gunton Arms. Just saying.

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Architecture Art Country Houses Fashion People

English Heritage Georgian Makeup + Kenwood House Hampstead London

Big Wigs Going Viral

“Hello! I’m Fashion Historian Amber Butchart and welcome to Kenwood House which is cared for by English Heritage. We’re standing inside an incredible Georgian house in north London that was once home to William Murray, 1st Earl of Mansfield, and his high society companions in the 18th century. Today we’re looking at the late 18th century and we’re going to show you how to recreate an authentic Georgian look inspired by one of the people whose portraits hang here at Kenwood. We’ll be exploring not only what the cosmetics can reveal about England during this period, but we’ll be investigating why bigger was better when it came to hairstyles of the Georgian aristocracy. Plus we’ve got an extra special treat for you. We’re going to be recreating two Georgian looks and talking about how women and men used makeup to make an impression on Georgian society.”

Cosmetics reached a zany zenith in the closing decades of the 18th century. Powdered wigs piled high with miniature ships celebrating naval victories, mouse fur eye brows, zinc and arsenic makeup: this is beauty to die for. Breeches and crinolines donned, the new Lord and Lady Mansfield are ready for a busy day’s strolling and lolling around while the cameras are rolling. So many cantilevered staircases and hard landings! Then it’s time for The Reveal in Kenwood’s Library, the hall of a myriad mirrors. Oh yeah, always the talent. The cast and crew:

  • Director Producer Hannah Silverman
  • Producer Katie Kennedy
  • Camera Director Joel Bates
  • Camera Thomas Buttery
  • Camera Liam Southall
  • Sound Zander Mavor
  • Photographer Abi Bansal
  • Fashion Historian Amber Butchart
  • Makeup Artist Rebecca Butterworth
  • English Heritage Curator Esmé Whittaker
  • Male Model Stuart Blakley
  • Female Model Ashleigh Murray

Categories
Art Fashion People

Daphne Guinness + Sleep

Be Careful What You Dream

Racing across London in the heat of a midsummer afternoon, the car windows down, the wind in our hair, causing waves, making waves, waving to passersby, while over the airwaves Solitaire plays. “She prayed for salvation. She wept for their pride. She cried for San Sebastián. And every single arrow in his side.” We’re duetting with our driver. The anticipation crescendos as we arrive at our secret destination. Diana Mitford’s granddaughter and Desmond Guinness’s niece doesn’t disappoint.

Daphne Guinness is even more exquisite, more elegant and more eloquent in real life. And just a little shy although by the end of the afternoon we have her laughing. She has her grandmother’s sharp cheekbones and her uncle’s piercing blue eyes. A model figure is accentuated by a trademark monochromatic outfit. She knows how to pull off a silhouette. Her white blonde pompadour (‘hair’ is for non human art installations) with just a dash of pink is splayed up with the help of kanzashi. Alexander McQueen sculptures to stride on (again, not mere ‘shoes’) and silver clad fingers complete the look.

Sleep is Daphne’s fifth album and is getting justifiably rave reviews. Traces of Beethoven and Pet Shop Boys are discernible but her music style is unsurprisingly unique. “The album has taken from conception till now three and a half years. I’ve released five videos from it so far. I want to be the crossover between sound and vision, the two different disciplines. And because I’ve been working with many photographers over the years, especially David LaChappelle. To me, when I’m writing the songs they’re all quite visual. Some of the tracks are condensed classical form: first act, second act, third act, fourth act, resolve. Others are just pop tracks with none of that narrative. But several are actually building out worlds in verse.”

“My first album was made with visionary photographer and director Nick Knight. And then Paul Fryer for the second one. Two with David. And then this one with Malcolm Doherty and David and so on. The good times always have to start!” We tell Daphne that every track on her album could be a single. “That’s what you try and do as an artist. In writing lyrics I try to cut out every piece of slack, chop every word that isn’t useful. A song can come kind of fully formed but then you need to sculpt it.” We venture how she has taught a generation to pronounce ‘chimera’. Daphne bursts out laughing. Surprisingly loudly, considering how softly she speaks. “Sometimes you just use a word because it’s really fantastic to use and add some nuance round it.”

“I didn’t go to university. I’m an autodidact. I read books all the time. My song Love and Destruction is a condensed reading of Nietzsche. It’s a philosophical text.” But she needed encouragement to take the first steps in her artistic musical career – that shyness. “I was in the studio for my first album, crouched under the desk in a corner and David Bowie came in and dragged me out by the ankles and said, ‘Come on – out! You’ve got to stand up! Stop hiding!’ Anyway, he really was instrumental in that album and was the shadow producer or godfather producer. I was his project – how wonderful to be his project. He was very funny and great.”

Daphne reminisces about her childhood. “I spent my early life in the country nine miles from Nuneaton, on the border of Leicestershire and Warwickshire. When I was growing up there all the mines were being shut down. It’s very grey, it’s very bleak. But it’s brilliant! It’s actually quite nice growing up in a bleak place. You develop an imagination around that. People ignore the Midlands at their peril. I have moved around a lot – Spain, Switzerland, Ireland, France, the US.”

“I went to school in London to begin with and then I was sent away to a really really bad boarding school and I kind of fell apart. I got into Guildhall where I trained as an opera singer, did all the exams. I then went off and got married at 19 and had three children. And again, the autodidact came out and I continued to train in opera.” We just have to bring up Solitaire. That infectious laugh once more. “You know it’s almost worth going through all the terrible things in my life to get a song like Solitaire. It almost sounds like you need to be nearly killed or put into the most terrifying positions to end up with a song like that! I expelled ghosts. I collapsed after I recorded the song – it was like everything was gone.”

Mishima is the second track on Sleep and is about the Japanese writer. I had a Japanese nanny from I was three to five so I was fluent in Japanese. When Mishima died she was in tears. She taught me how to do reciprocal behaviour – my father found me in tears on the staircase at home and he said, ‘What are you doing?’ I mean, you can see from my hairstyle …” Ah, the origin of the kanzashi. “What’s really interesting is the San Sebastián connection in Solitaire. Mishima famously did these pictures of San Sebastián with the arrows. Our home in Cadaqués was named after San Sebastián. There are so many weird threads that go in and out. You couldn’t make it up!”

“I was going to give up recording after my third album. I thought it was pretty good. It was a monster to mix this album with all the strings and the drums. Normally at this stage of an album I’m ready for hospital … That’s why I started doing videos because I wasn’t sure if I would survive this process. I thought well if I do videos and something happens … Actually I feel alright. I hope people like the album and the words and the atmosphere get through. You have no idea if it’s going to resonate with anybody else but I’d prefer to live and die on a perfect pitch, stanza, iambic pentameter, to get a real message across.”

“We’re living in urgent times. But Sleep has got a very upbeat sound and yet the message is serious but actually there’s optimism in it. All the tracks are my favourites in so many ways. The only person I’m trying to beat is myself really. I don’t even go for a walk without a goal.” We don’t want to leave but our driver has arrived and it’s time to go. He blasts No Joke full volume on the return journey. “You’re flesh and blood. You won’t be here for long. Don’t push your luck … Before your eyes, an enigma lies.” Debo Devonshire’s great niece and Clementine Lady Beit’s cousin twice removed doesn’t disappoint. In Daphne Guinness’s departing words: “It’s a mysterious journey.”

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Architecture Design Fashion Luxury People Town Houses

Rue St Honoré Paris +

A Street Named Desire

Material cravings (if Isabel Marant and Alexander McQueen are your bag) and spiritual needs (if Polish incense is your style) are catered for along this two kilometre stretch of glory through the 1st and 8th Arrondissements. Rue St Honoré even has its own Pantheon. The 1670s circular worship space set in a square block which forms Église Notre Dame de l’Assomption, better known as Paroisse Polonaise (the Polish Church), was inspired by the Ancient Rome masterpiece. Designed by Charles Errard, a six columned Corinthian portico leads into the 24 metre diameter rotunda. A fresco by Charles de la Fosse representing the Assumption of the Virgin fills a roundel in the centre of the 65 square metre coffered dome. The only source of natural light is from eight clerestory windows.

The allure of turning right off Rue St Honoré towards the Seine onto Rue du Rivoli eventually proves impossible to ignore. Destination Hôtel Le Meurice. Chablis Cru les Vaillons Albert Buchot 2021 on ice awaits. Musing on the material versus spiritual or perhaps material versus cultural, mid last century Debo Duchess of Devonshire took her daughter to Paris for “some improvement”. As recounted in a letter by Debo’s Paris residing sister, the novelist Nancy Mitford, the ladies got as far as Notre Dame when Her Grace announced, “Now darling, you’ve seen the outside so you can imagine the inside. Let’s go to Dior.”

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Art Design Fashion People Restaurants Town Houses

Zoop Retro + Free the Gallery + Haynes Lane Crystal Palace London

Great Exhibitions

Crystal Palace has always had edge. Last century it was a favoured hideout of pirate radios thanks to being one of the highest places in London. MSM radio comes from the Eiffel Tower lookalike transmitting station that pierces the sky. These days it’s The Triangle below the mast (time to rebrand it TriBeMa?) that’s getting all the attention. The revival of this angular patch on a plateau radiating off Church Road, Westow Hill and Westow Street has avoided the slips of gentrification and gone straight to urban authentic.

Brimming with life, flowing with ambience, frothing over on fun are its 48 restaurants, 37 wellness shops, 11 antique stores, 10 clothes shops, 10 pubs, nine giftshops, eight gyms, seven interiors shops, six charity shops, six convenience stores, three beer and wine shops, three flower shops and two pet shops. Most of the pubs are fine examples of Forget Temperance Victorian architecture.

An exciting vertical and rear extension has transformed Westow House, a pub overlooking Crystal Palace Park with an uninterrupted view of the transmitter. Two extra storeys and a substantial return wing designed by Daria Wong Architects contain function space and 23 bedrooms attached to the pub downstairs. This reinstates the building to its original four storey height and proportions pre World War II bomb damage. Haddonstone replicated historic stone details using 3D scanning technology.

In contrast to Westow House, Haynes Lane is one of Crystal Palace’s hidden gems. Tucked behind Sainsbury’s off Westow Street, it’s lined on one side by a pretty Victorian terrace stepping down the hill. On the other side, brick warehouses wedged into the hill around a courtyard are now a lively vintage market. Free the Gallery occupies the upper level: it’s a pop up space. Zoop Retro has taken it over along with an exhibition by artist Nick Slim.

Peter Raistrick, owner of Zoop Retro, relates, “I’d just arrived in London from Middlesbrough in 1990 to study for a graphic design degree at the London College of Communication and I found a discarded Levi’s denim jacket that looked unusual so I tried to repatriate it and nobody in the immediate area wanted it. So I went to a specialist retailer on Kensington High Street and they gave me £60 for it. That spurred my interest in dealing in vintage clothing. I opened my shop in Crystal Palace three and a half years ago. One rail turned into two turned into three. I have 12 rails in this pop up. I also have my permanent shop downstairs.”

“Nineties Levi’s jackets still sell well,” he notes. “As do Adidas Originals not to be confused with newer variants. Denim is always popular. Zoop Retro is about going back in time to Nineties club culture. I also sell quirky stuff like South Korean graphic prints.” Haynes Lane is quite the social hub and no time more so than on a sunny Saturday afternoon.

Nick arrives over from his studio on Westow Hill. He shares, “I create distinctive multilayered paintings, collages and prints. My photographic and digital artworks are reflective of my interests in pop culture and vintage erotica, as well as my often provocative sense of humour. My artworks are playful and dark at the same time, inviting the viewer to ‘peel off’ the layers and reveal their hidden message. My attention to detail highlights the finesse of methods and technique be it digital or painting. Drawing on my training as a fine artist, I break the rules in order to create a symbiosis of mixed genres and media resulting in my trademark slick punchy use of colour, form and satirical narrative.”

Nick won the Reece Martin Prize for Painting at Camberwell College of Arts and went on to study Fine Art at Sheffield Hallam University in the Nineties where he embraced the city’s rave subculture. He was appointed Art Director for Transcentral Rave Parties. Slim trailblazed responding artistically to the new dance music scene using screening, video projection, 16 millimetre film and 35 millimetre slide shows. He has exhibited his work with the lingerie brand Coco de Mer and his work is for sale in The Paxton Centre on Annerley Hill to the east of The Triangle.

Singer musician storyteller Violetta Vibration rocks up to Free the Gallery. “On a quantum level all matter is vibration so nothing is really real,” she considers. “Your thoughts are vibration and if you think you want to do something and go an get an onion and chop it into soup you’re creating soup. You’re basically creating your reality with your thoughts. If you think everything’s going to be awful and nobody likes you and that there’s something wrong with you you’ll probably meet people who reaffirm that belieft. So you have to think that you’re great and amazing and love who you are to attract people that are on that frequency. I’m supposed to be meeting you today!” Later, Violetta will put her amazing vocal range and songwriting talent to very good use. It’s not over till the fab lady sings.

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Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Mary Martin London + Janice Blakley + The Green Dress

Destiny Hall

Landed circles. Every day is extraordinary. Every moment is an haute couture one.

Categories
Art Design Fashion People

Design Museum London + Enzo Mari

An Exhibition Curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist with Francesca Giacomelli

Fashion: Alexander McQueen. Art: Ai Weiwei. Design: Enzo Mari. The Design Museum does it all. CEO Tim Marlowe opens the press launch celebrating the work of the late Italian designer: “Enzo Mari is an absolutely major figure in 20th and 21st century design. He’s one of the giants of the design world and yet in this country, present company excepted, he’s nowhere near as well known as he should be. This is the first solo show of any note dedicated to Enzo Mari. It’s about time it happened. There are over 300 objects in the exhibition. My own reductive view is I feel it’s like walking into the mind of a great creative thinker. That’s my initial response to it. This is a show that’s been an extraordinary collaboration … beginning at the Milan Triennale. But now at the Design Museum it’s the essence of that show. Mari’s whole view I think of the world of design was that design should be in service to society rather than in service to design per se. This is a great thing to remind ourselves in a world of mass production. It’s essential for us that we do these shows and we start to bring to a broader audience not just the designers that aren’t well enough known but also the ideas they embody. Mari is one of the great originals in the history of design as well as design itself.”

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Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Mary Martin London + Anglo Irish Art de la Haute Couture

A Muse

“The things we truly love stay with us always, locked in our hearts as long as life remains,” Josephine Baker, 1954

Mary Martin London is freedom, protest, a love letter, a manifesto, a shaking of the shoulders, a twisting of the ankles; looking closer, wider and more expansively at the world around us. There is always so much more to the fashion house. It’s about reclaiming agency, asserting subjectivity, authoring a new visual lexicon. As for the lead fashion artist herself? She can do it all: design, draw, cut, drape, fit, model. Both sides of the Atlanta not to mention the Mother Continent are enthralled by her living legacy. Stateside, Atlanta City Council led by its President Doug Shipman dedicated Saturday 9 December 2023 as Mary Martin Appreciation Day. Closer to home, there’s a muse in a mews to be schmoozed. The pedestal worthy cap, tunic and trouser combo may be Afro Caribbean in outline but the robust materiality of tweed with handwoven felt shamrocks is firmly Anglo Irish. Mary Martin London is dancer, legend, green, global.

“I believe we are created by God. In the beginning, God created heaven and earth and everything in them. So, if He created us in His image, we are creators like Him. We create, and God is my creator and inspiration.” Mary Martin, 2024

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Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Mary Martin London + Anglo Ireland

The Tullymurry Set

It’s fine to wear your birthday suit in the countryside. Especially when the view to the horizon is uninterrupted by anyone or anything. Mary Martin London is in fashion anywhere and everywhere.

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Art Design Fashion Luxury People Town Houses

Mary Martin London + Zelda Blakley

Haute Cature

Put simply, Gertrude Stein is Zelda Blakley’s favourite author and Tender Buttons of 1914 her favourite book. Transparent intellectual accessibility is not Zelda’s chief concern. Take: “The instance of there being more is an instance of more. The shadow is not shining in the way there is a black line.” She just doesn’t wear her erudition lightly; Zelda also likes to don Mary Martin London and we’re not talking the prêt-à-porter range.

Britain’s leading fashion artist is in her prime, now working at concert pitch: already this month she’s received gongs at The Extraordinary Achievers Charity Awards and Power of A Woman Awards. As always with her one-off pieces, there’s more to Zelda’s cape than meets the eye. “The checked tweed is very British and the handsewn felt shamrocks represent Ireland, reflecting Zelda’s Anglo Irish heritage,” Mary explains. “The duffle coat buckle shows off her street cred too. The costume jewellery is just literally that – fit for royalty!”

The fashion artist was inspired by the oil painting of Queen Charlotte in Zelda’s London residence. Mary shares, “Baron Christian Friedrich von Stockmar, a contemporary of the Queen Consort of King George III, said she had a ‘positive mulatto face’. Her ethnicity as a woman of colour is often denied or ignored by mainstream history.” Queen Charlotte had a celebrated diamond filled collection of jewellery. To segue back to Gertrude Stein, “Giving it away, not giving it away, is there any difference. Giving it away, not giving it away.”

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Guy Hollaway Architects + The Gas Station Restaurant King’s Cross London

Pump Up the Jam

It was the petrol filling station with a shop where clubbers would call in for bottles of water on their way to Bagley’s rave when the back of King’s Cross was an urban desert. Then the team behind Bistrotheque, one of Hackney’s most popular restaurants, opened a pop up called Shrimpy’s at The Filling Station in July 2012. Behind architects Carmody Groarke’s undulating fibreglass screen, the station forecourt was transformed into an outdoor seating area and the former kiosk turned into a 50 cover Latin American seafood residence. The meanwhile use would become permanent; the temporary building would remain just that.

In the days before Small Plates, the menu was traditional in its order of Starters, Main Courses and Puddings, while modern in its ingredients. Typical courses were seabass ceviche, plantains (£8.50); monkfish, quinoa, almonds, courgettes (£19.00); and poached quince, crème fraîche, almonds (£6.00). Cocktails (£8.50 to £9.00) included Lavender Tea: gin, lavender, grapefruit, camomile tea. Pound signs were stripped off the menu in a futuristic nod to minimalism. Unusually for its time, Shrimpy’s was cashless. Another sign of things to come was the 12.5 percent service charge when 10 percent was the norm.

It was all terribly buzzy; we sat up at the bar next to the singer Bryan Ferry. We attended the Christmas tree press party a few months later in December 2012. Clearly full of the joys, after dashing from Ballymore’s Embassy Gardens launch party in Vauxhall, we reported, “Across town, we joined opera singer Camilla Kerslake and fashionistas Giles Deacon and Jonathan Saunders at King’s Cross Filling Station. The tenuous editorial link? Vauxhall. A Christmas tree made out of Vauxhall Amera car parts was unveiled. Moving parts mechanically grooved to a techno beat as fluorescent orange light and frosted air filled the forecourt. Lady Gaga’s erstwhile designer Gary Card dreamt up the tree. Mince pies, mulled wine and dancing kept us warm.”

Gin Works – a bar, restaurant and micro distillery for Kent winemaker Chapel Down – took Shrimpy’s place in 2017. Guy Hollaway Architects, the practice behind Rocksalt restaurant on the harbour front in Folkestone, designed a replacement two storey building with an industrial aesthetic. The entrance along Goods Way is set in a curved sweep of finned coloured glazing. The Regent Canal elevation is framed by the fragments of a cast iron Victorian gasworks. Cladding maintains the pop up appearance. After Gin Works closed, the owners of Camden Town Brewery and Mare Street Market in Hackney opened The Gas Station in the building in 2021. A wild garden designed by Richard Wilford, Head of Garden Design at Kew Royal Botanic Gardens, surrounds the beer garden overlooking the canal.

The buzziness is back. We’re sat at a marbleised top table for two on the ground floor of the two storey restaurant and bar. There are wallflowers (not us) climbing up the staircase walls. Sticking to savouries for sharing, Snacks are mushroom arancini, porcini mayo (£7.00) and whipped cod roe taramasalata, toasted flatbread (£7.00). Small Plates are mussels and clams on sourdough, garlic, lemon, samphire (£11.00) and blackened leeks, nori, leek aioli, warm hazelnut vinaigrette (£9.00). Our Large Plate is aubergine steak, smoked babaganoush, sourdough croutons, caponata, basil (£14.50). The vibe is high end pub grub. Cocktails are a speciality of the bar at The Gas Station. Monte Mule (£11.50) is Amaro Montenegro, Old Jamaica Ginger Beer and lime. “Gas” is Dublin slang for great fun. And The Gas Station is just that.