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WOW!house 2026 + Design Centre Chelsea Harbour London

Heaven’s in the Detail

Chelsea is synonymous with a great school (Chelsea Academy), a fab hotel (Chelsea Harbour Hotel) and of course an international design hub (Design Centre Chelsea Harbour). The latter plays host to WOW!house once again this year. This portmanteau with a sandwiched exclamation mark is back with aplomb. Despite being only five years old, WOW!house is already a firm fixture of The Season, betwixt the Chelsea Flower Show (more Chelsea) and Royal Ascot.

“London is leading the design world,” fashion powerhouse Dame Mary Martin believes, “and Chelsea is the microcosm of the creative Capital. Studios like The Bomb Factory Art Foundation on Lots Road near Chelsea Academy are exploding with originality. The terrace of the Chelsea Harbour Hotel is one of my favourite places for enjoying a cocktail in between shows.” Her eponymous brand Mary Martin London is now one of the hottest names in international haute couture.

Following the Ralph Lauren pre party (where blue and white are the new black) Darren Price, Director of Adam Architecture, introduces the reconfigured Size Group Façade: “I enjoyed talking to you last year about the original design. I wanted to play with the architecture and remodel it just as one might evolve a design in the real world. The central portico has been expanded either side to create a loggia. This provides a three dimensional experience for visitors.” His oeuvre ranges from restoring country houses to delivering complex interior packages with many projects involving Listed Buildings.

“I took the principles of early Georgian architecture,” Darren says, “and fast forwarded to the Regency period of Soane. I have not created a historical artefact: this structure demonstrates that classical design can be appropriate for contemporary settings.” He also designed the standalone Hector Finch Garden Folly which complements The Size Group Façade but takes on an apropos whimsical air with a tented roof. Darren concludes, “This folly was conceived as a moment of theatre and discovery!”

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Enass Mahmoud, Founder and Creative Director of Studio Enass, designed the interior of the Hector Finch Garden Folly. She advises, “It’s a room evoking the escapism of an island getaway. At the heart of my work is storytelling. Here, I am the client envisioning a tranquil yet indulgent retreat designed for intimate joyful moments.” A shellwork frieze and scallop shell light pendent are breezy touches reflecting faraway places against the grounded richness of the gemstone red silk wallcovering.

Through the loggia lies Francis Sultana’s impressive Entrance Hall which leads into Róisín Lafferty’s immersive Shepel Library and onto the luxurious Lalique Home Bar designed by Chara Ghandi, Founder and Director of Elicyon. Chara gives a tour of this intimate 20 square metre space: “The bar is a collaboration with our sponsor Lalique. There are Lalique pieces dating from 1926 to 2026 incorporated into the interior. We have designed hidden compartments in the timber wall panelling which open to reveal more Lalique. It’s at once serene and spirited.” Even the stools have tiny pieces from the French crystal house embedded in their fabric covering.

She says, “This is a room that celebrates the pleasure of unveiling. It’s a journey for the curious. Luxury here is about precision, comfort and atmosphere rather than spectacle. We wanted the space to feel intimate and indulgent. The design presents Lalique through a crisp contemporary lens. “Rebecca Larn, Creative Director of Elicyon, adds, “Hosting is back at the forefront!” And Frederick Fischer, Managing Director of Lalique observes, “Crystal brings light, depth and surprise to any interior. The bar is a perfect setting for Lalique to shine in a modern context.”

Enass Mahmoud, Founder and Creative Director of Studio Enass, designed the interior of the Garden Folly. She advises, “It’s a room evoking the escapism of an island getaway. At the heart of my work is storytelling. Here, I am the client envisioning a tranquil yet indulgent retreat designed for intimate joyful moments.” A shellwork frieze and scallop shell light pendent are breezy touches reflecting faraway places against the grounded richness of the gemstone red silk wallcovering.

It’s Martin Kemp Design’s first show at the Design Centre Chelsea Harbour. The Parlour has plenty of wow factor! Founder and Managing Director Martin explains, “This room was conceived as a response to the immediacy of contemporary life – it rejects the idea of a single focal point. Instead, The Parlour unfolds as a sequence of layered moments. Many of the pieces in this circular space are from Avenue, a new furniture brand by Martin Kemp Design.” He was formerly Creative Director of the ultra luxury developer Candy and Candy. His current clientele is equally high end and international, from Monaco to Mumbai to Mayfair.

Whether George Smith’s “human sized dog bed” for the Russell Sage Studio or the dog bed in Misia for Casamance Group Bedroom Suite by Henri Fitzwilliam-Lay or the 55 lacquered “wall boxes” of the Benjamin Moore Minhwa Salon by Young Huh, this year’s WOW!house – all 600 square metres – is about lavish attention to detail. And what’s next for Darren Price’s Size Group Façade? Perhaps Vanbrughian vermiculated voussoirs for WOW!house 2027? As last seen at The Drama of Architecture exhibition on the distinguished wine merchant turned playwright turned architect held at Sir John Soane’s Museum, Holborn.

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Donostia San Sebastián + Maitasuna

Hot Girls’ Spring

Eneko Goia Laso is a Spanish politician of the Basque Nationalist Party. He was elected to the City Council of San Sebastián in 2011 as the party’s leader, and was Mayor from 2015 to 2025. He says, “Donostia San Sebastián is renowned worldwide for its very special charm. It’s a different type of city: strikingly beautiful, packed with contrasts, traditional yet firmly embracing the future, while always maintaining that cosmopolitan ambiance that has characterised it through the annals of history.”

He finishes, “Due to its proximity to France and to having been the European nobility’s preferred holiday destination down the years, the Capital of Gipuzkoa certainly exudes an international air. It’s a city where visitors feel privileged to have had the smarts to pick this magical place as their holiday destination. At the seaside yet close to the mountains, it combines world class culture, exceptional cuisine and breathtaking architecture to offer a truly unique experience for all!”

The city hasn’t looked back since Queen Regent Maria Cristina selected it as her summer holiday destination following the death of her husband King Alfonso XII in 1885. She transferred the whole court temporarily each year to Miramar Palace which is perched on the Pico del Loro overlooking La Concha Bay, set in a landscape designed by Pierre Ducasse. Two years later a casino was built for the royal holidaymakers. Parks, courses for horses (Zubieta) and cars (Lasarte) and a golf course would follow. It’s where all the big hitters are headed this spring.

Higher again than Miramar Palace is Satrústegui Palace. The former is (brick and timber) Queen Anne meets Tudor; the latter, (stone) castellated Adam. Their share of Albion essence is not coincidental: English architect Ralph Selden Wornum contemporaneously designed both palaces. Satrústegui Palace was the summer residence of diplomat Joaquín Marcos de Satrústegui. Plans are afoot to convert it into a boutique hotel.

A sign in the garden of Miramar Palace helpfully sets out: “After the death of King Alfonso XIII in Rome in 1941, the estate was conjointly inherited by his four living children, Jaime, Beatriz, Cristina and Juan, all of whom lived in exile. In 1958 the property was split: the palace and gardens were passed to Prince Juan, Count of Barcelona. The other three siblings inherited the rest of the estate and sold this land to developers.” Skipping a few sentences, it transpires that after a conservation campaign, the City Council purchased the house and garden in 1972.

Iñaki Egaña writes in A Brief History of the Basque Country, 2016, “The Basque language, Euskara in Basque and Euskera in Spanish, is spoken by the people who have always inhabited the shores of the Cantabrian Sea and both sides of the Pyrenees. The expression Pays Basque has been used in France since at least 1710 to refer to the Basque Country, and the German traveller and statesman Wilhelm von Humboldt contributed greatly to the spread of the name.” The Basque language is unique; nobody knows where it originated. The 20th century dictator Francisco Franco banned Basque.

There are seven Basque provinces: Biscay Bizkaia (the Capital being Bilbao), Guipúzcoa Gipuzkoa (Donostia San Sebastián) and Labourd Lapurdi (Bayonne) all share Atlantic coastline. Álava Araba (Vitoria-Gasteiz), Navarre Nafarroa (Pamplona- Iruñea), Lower Navarre Behe Nafarroa (populated with villages) and Soule Zuberoa (Mauléon-Licharre) are all inland. The French Northern Basque Country includes Labourd Lapurdi, Lower Navarre Behe Nafarroa and Soule Zuberoa. The Spanish Southern Basque Country includes Álava Araba, Biscay Bizkaia, Guipúzcoa Gipuzkoa and Navarre Nafarroa. Easy. The million inhabitants of Greater Bilbao make up one third of the Basque Country population. San Sebastián’s headcount is nearly 200,000.

The knowledgeable Mila Caro of Devour Tours leads visitors around Old Town on a pints and pintxos evening. “In pintxo bars we stand to eat and drink: there are no tables, no reservations. The drain below the counter is for mussel shells. Bar owners like to see dozens of discarded shells at the end of a night. It’s a sign business is good! Basque cider was considered nutritious. It’s sour and dry and was good for sailors’ scurvy. San Sebastián cheesecake is creamy with no crust. It’s not sweet like American cheesecake. That bar 1813 is named after the year when the British army burnt the city after defeating the French troops who had occupied here for several years. This street is named 31 de Agosto after the exact date of the fire: it was the only street to survive the fire.”

“We’re now in Plaza de la Constitución which is the very heart of the Old Town. If you look up you can see numbers over the doors that open off the long rows of balconies on the upper floors. The flats were originally owned by the City Council and were leased out to members of the public for watching big events held on the plaza. The tenants had to agree to their sitting rooms being leased out every so often!”

“The foodie revolution of San Sebastián came about with the Gang of 12, a group of Basque chefs led by Juan Mari Arzak and Pedro Subijana in the 1970s. There are now three Basque restaurants with three Michelin stars and a total of 19 stars in the city. My brother’s restaurant Zelai Txiki received a Green Michelin star in 2023.”

“The Gilda is the original Basque pintxo and was created in the 1940s in Bar Casa Vallés. A regular customer named Joaquín Aramburu had the habit of threading the bar’s loose olives, anchovies and pickled peppers onto a single toothpick. At the same time the film Gilda starring Rita Hayworth was released. The film was considered hot and spicy! So is the appetiser and the name stuck. A Gilda these days usually is made up of Manzanilla olives, Cantabrian anchovies, Guindilla peppers and Extra Virgin olive oil. Sometimes sweet blueberry jam is put on top of the salty anchovies. Another local delicacy is black ink squid croquettes. Rioja became very popular in the 19th century. That wine region is a one hour 20 minutes drive from San Sebastián.”

Canapés or rather pintxos for breakfast (Aitana), sunset cocktails (Hotel Londres), a private afternoon boat ride (Ciudad Catamaran), an 800 year old church filled with ecclesiastical artefacts and contemporary art and the world’s largest miniature nativity scene (St Mary’s), two golden strands (Las Concha and Ondarreta), an island lighthouse (Santa Clara), a mountain top statue of Christ (Sacred Heart): Donostia San Sebastián is a city of culture. And partying. It’s almost midnight. The local football team Real Sociedad is playing Atlético Madrid in the final of the Copa del Ray, the Royal Spanish Football Federation’s annual knockout competition.

Blue and white flags are draped from every other balcony. The football colours are everywhere and on everyone. The match is beamed on mega screens throughout the city. It’s almost midnight. It’s a two-two draw. The tension is palpable. Penalties. Three-three. Seconds later the roar of nearly 200,000 fans ricochets across the squares and rockets down the streets, reverberating over the bay. Fireworks explode across the sky. The night is about to really begin.

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Crevenagh House Omagh Tyrone +

The Ashes

The end. There was a savage inevitability about it, really. After the patrician Darlings packed their belongings and moved to England, Crevenagh House was never inhabited again. Nature was gradually reclaiming it when an arsonist finished the job, abruptly. One Sunday night last February the sky turned amber and crimson over Winter’s Meadow. Soon the house will be removed from the map. These last images of Crevenagh House – remnants and fragments connecting the assonance of outlines – have the glow of a love affair and the tenderness of an elegy. “After the fire is over. After the ashes cool. After the smoke has blown away … After the stillness finds you. After the winds of change. Slowly. Slowly. We turn the page of life … It comes at quite a price.” Amy Grant, 2003.

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The Mulhollands + Ballyscullion Park Book Festival Bellaghy Londonderry

Better Lives

Animal and children’s rights activist Janice Blakley sums up the Saturday, “My love of and belief in the power of the written word was reaffirmed as I sat in awe listening to the authors at Ballyscullion Park Book Festival. A truly wonderful experience and privilege to have been there. To quote Jane Austen, ‘I declare there is no enjoyment like reading’.” Let Ireland’s leading literary festival begin. Celtic Grace musicians serenade arrivals.

Rosalind Mulholland, who owns Ballyscullion Park with her husband Richard, launches the festival, “You come from far and wide, all over Ireland and the UK. It’s just wonderful that you’re here as lovers of books, ideas, poetry, history and storytelling. I’d like to remind us of the power of literature to connect people across generations and borders. I hope you will discover new voices and enjoy inspiring conversations and most importantly leave with a renewed love of books and storytelling and – really most of all – have a wonderful time!”

Ballyscullion Park, a demesne just beyond Bellaghy (best known as the home of Seamus Heaney: a literary and arts centre has opened in the village in honour of the poet) and above Lough Beg in County Londonderry, is both a private home and a wedding venue. It adapts well to the book festival. The main event space is the Marquee in the Walled Garden. The Ringrose Room and Stables Room, smaller spaces, back onto the Walled Garden. The Mulhollands’ son George manages the grounds and accommodation. Their daughter Cordelia looks after social media and events.

Smaller temporary marquees have popped up for the occasion celebrating the finest of Irish food, art and of course books. Cocobros Chocolate is all about colourful temptations. Exquisite cards by floral designer and photographer Suzie Scott (owner of Florestina which specialises in wedding and event flowers) illustrate her floral arrangements shot against a black background with all the depth of Dutch Golden Age still lifes. Louisa Scott Jewellery is inspired by ancient cultures and the natural world. The talented goldsmith and jewellery designer Louisa is Suzie’s daughter. The Secret Bookshelf has decamped from Carrickfergus, County Antrim, for the weekend.

“It is a singular honour to introduce this wonderful woman at this – so far! – fantastic festival,” says Madelaine Keane, Literary Editor of The Sunday Independent. “Jung Chang was born in China in 1952 during the Cultural Revolution. She worked variously as a barefoot doctor, a steelworker and an electrician. She then left for England in 1978, obtaining a degree in linguistics at the University of York. She was the first person from Communist China to receive a doctorate from a British university. Her extraordinary memoir Wild Swans was published in 1991 and sold more than 13 million copies worldwide.”

Madelaine continues, “She went on to write a groundbreaking trilogy of the history of personalities of China including Mao which she wrote with her husband Jon Halliday, the Empress Dowager Cixi and the three Soong sisters. Her books have been unsurprisingly translated into 48 languages and she’s been awarded a CBE for her services to literature and history. Her new memoir Fly, Wild Swans was published last September.”

Jung explains, “After Wild Swans was published in the early 1990s many people have asked me to write a sequel to it but I always thought that there wasn’t enough material to say. And then in 2023 I changed my mind. I was talking to my mother who was very ill in Chengdu in China and I was watching her from the screen of my mobile because I was not able to go and see my mother even at her deathbed because of the books I had written. So obviously I was very sad and I looked at my mother – she was enfeebled by her illness but she was still strong and I thought since the ending of Wild Swans in 1978 more than 40 years had gone by. I wanted to write about our stories along with that of China and to bring those stories up to date.”

Aged 26, Jung passed a national exam for an overseas scholarship but she would not have been able to leave China because her father had spoken out against the Cultural Revolution. Her mother, though, had previously petitioned to the Prime Minister, Zhou Enlai, and secured a paper which didn’t clear her father’s name but stated he shouldn’t be arrested.

Over to Jung, “That note got my father out of prison and my mother foresaw that this piece of paper would be useful for her children in the future. She hid the piece of paper in one of the padded cotton shoes which my grandma had made for herself for her crushed and bound feet. The note stayed there for 11 years. And in 1978 my mother unstitched my grandma’s shoe, took out the piece of paper and gave it to the Reformist Government and that got my father rehabilitated, allowing me to leave the country.”

The only British book Jung read growing up was Oliver Twist. She smiles, “The picture of this starving child Oliver with big eyes wanting more was etched into my head when I was a child! We were allowed to read it because it showed how awful Capitalist society was. Before coming to England, the only foreigners I had talked to were sailors in a south China port. When I was studying English we were sent to practise our English with the sailors. My fellow students and I were eagerly awaiting them in the International Sailors Club. We grabbed them as soon as they came on shore and of course we had no idea what must be on their minds!”

She says, “The sailors had no idea what we were talking about because our textbooks had been written by teachers who’d never met foreigners themselves so they were direct translations of Chinese texts. In those days people used to say in Chinese, ‘Where are you going? Have you eaten?’ So that was the English greeting I learned which I used when I first came to Britain!”

Jung settled in London and would marry the Irish historian and writer Jon Halliday. Writing a book about China was not on her mind. That all changed when her mother visited England for the first time in 1988. “We were walking in Hyde Park one day and she suddenly yelled, ‘Look! Look at that stone!’ It was a flat round stone. She said, ‘That looks just like a millstone.’ A millstone was used to crush baby girls’ feet to produce the three inch golden lilies like my grandma’s. So I asked my mother to tell me more about herself, my grandma, the stories. She stayed with me for six months and by the time she left London I had 60 hours of tape recordings and I started writing Wild Swans. It was my mother who made me a writer. I owe my happy and fulfilled life to my mother.”

Madelaine observes how the love between Jung and her mother “just leaps off the pages”. And: “How deeply symbolic it is that the letter that gave you your freedom was stitched into the shoes which were such a symbol of repression.” Jung responds, “My grandma’s bound feet were also the origin of my urge to write Wild Swans in the first place. My mother’s optimism was not wishful thinking or burying your head in the sand. It was to fight to gain what is that seemingly impossible goal. If you lose that optimism and the hope you might as well give up. My mother never gave up. Her life had many tragic events but her stories were never depressing. I drew a lot of strength from my mother when I came to write Wild Swans and Fly, Wild Swans. My hope is also based on rational analysis and not wishful thinking.”

Communism may be less of a segue and more of a connection of dubious tenuousness, but onto Benjamin Treuhaft in conversation with Lynsy Spence, author and founder of The Mitford Society. Ben is the son of Jessica “Decca” Mitford, one of the six Mitford sisters who fuelled 20th century newsreels with gallons of glamour and considerable controversy. Getting into festival spirit, his left big toenail is painted in the national colours of Cuba; his right, China. Decca was the Communist Mitford. Ben is a renowned piano tuner and piano builder. In 1995 he set up a charitable enterprise to send 237 pianos to music schools in Cuba to replace Soviet made instruments ravaged by the tropical climate.

“We didn’t talk much about Decca’s family history until she started getting her fame when she wrote her autobiography Hons and Rebels,” says Ben. “I was about 11 or 12. Then the whole Mitford thing started coming out of the woodwork. I think my mum had been trying to avoid it. She was too busy being a Red! There was a lot of work to do in McCarthyite US at that time.”

He recalls, “None of my aunts forgave Decca for marrying a Jewish lawyer. He wasn’t one of them and didn’t want to be one of them. But mum and Debo loved each other and had respect for one another.” The Communist and the Duchess. The youngest of the sisters, Debo would marry the 11th Duke of Devonshire and transform Chatsworth in Derbyshire into a leading heritage attraction. Ben finishes, “Now all these books are coming out. It’s so nice to have people writing biographies of one’s mother and aunts. Listening to Jung Chang was so fascinating. I wonder what my mum would think of her?”

Ulster University lecturers Stephen Price and Peter McMulllan lead a lunchtime tour of the Bishop’s Palace ruins deep in the estate woodland. They are armed with digital recreation image boards of the 1787 house built by Frederick Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol and Bishop of Derry. “The Bishop’s Palace,” says Stephen, “had a 107 metre long façade with a domed central rotunda and two curved wings ending in pavilions which housed art galleries. He also laid out the picturesque landscape. The palace was dismantled in 1813.” An ivy clad stretch of one of the wings is all that remains.

Stephen confirms, “This palace was very similar to Ickworth, the Bishop’s house in Suffolk. The controversial image is our view of the oval hall in the centre of the rotunda. There are no extant drawings of the hall and descriptions are disparate and conflicting. All we know is that it had a double helix staircase accessing the two upper floors. The staircase was salvaged and taken to Shane’s Castle in Country Antrim, which was then destroyed in a fire. Rosalind noticed Fortnum and Mason’s shop in London has a good example of a double helix staircase!”

Richard Mulholland’s fascinating talk on the Bishop’s Palace and Ballyscullion Park is more than worth the sprint across the rain soaked lawn to the Stables Room. “The palace was never completed. The Bishop was a wonderful collector: one pavilion had French art; the other, German art. The portico was reused at St George’s Church of Ireland Church in Belfast. Pillars from the palace are now at Portglenone House in County Antrim. The replacement house Ballyscullion Park was built by Admiral Sir Henry Bruce, son of the Bishop’s cousin, in the 1840s. The architect was Sir Charles Lanyon. Ballywalter Park, my first cousin Brian Lord Dunleath’s house, is another Lanyon house. Some of the ceilings in the two houses are virtually identical.”

He continues, “In the 1840s the Mulhollands’ linen factory at Yorkgate in Belfast was the largest in the world. So the Mulhollands wanted to show off and built Ballywalter Park. It had the most wonderful conservatory but in recent years the metal had rotted and the glass was damaged. Pilkington Glass rebuilt the entire conservatory. It is perfect now. At £350,000 it would need to be!”

Richard’s grandparents, Sir Harry and Lady Sheelah Mulholland, bought Ballyscullion in 1938. Riddled with dry rot, they restored the house, added bathrooms and de-Victorianised it. “My grandmother came from Colebrooke Park in County Fermanagh, a simple unfussy house, which probably inspired her to simplify Ballyscullion. The sandstone pillars are very soft and easy to chip so needed to be restored. We wanted to paint the house white but when I sought a grant from Hysterical Buildings as I call Historic Buildings they wanted it painted Antrim Town Hall muddy brown! We didn’t take a grant.”

“Just after my grandparents finished the major restoration, the house and estate were requisitioned by the War Office as a military base. Most big houses in Northern Ireland were taken over during World War II. It was a small camp here of 80 soldiers. All the furniture was put into storage. At first Ballyscullion was used by the British army who didn’t look after it but then it was occupied by the Americans who were brilliant.” Richard has a literary lineage link: he’s a direct descendent of Jane Austen’s brother Edward Knight.

Mid Saturday afternoon the accomplished novelist from Omagh in County Tyrone, Martina Devlin, chats with the American author, journalist – and occasional provocateur! – Lionel Shriver. Ballyscullion doesn’t pull punches but does pull big names. Martina opens with, “A previous mayor of New York City floated this as an idea. In the midst of a housing crisis New Yorkers were to be offered money to host migrants. Lionel takes this as the premise for her latest novel.”

Lionel reveals, “This novel is trying to go at the issue of immigration in a way I find very few or perhaps no other fiction writers tend to do which means I am not just inevitably sympathetic with the plight of the immigrants themselves but I am also sympathetic with the plight of the host population. There are reasons why fiction writers are drawn to telling the story of the immigrant – the conventional quest structure, the immigrant is on a journey facing obstacles, has a goal, is probably disadvantaged in comparison to the host population. It’s a great setup – that’s exactly the sort of thing you want in your heroes.”

“Whereas the host population isn’t going anywhere by definition. It just sits there; it doesn’t seem to have a story. The people who are experiencing a large number of visitors are understood to be the backdrop. They’re either going to be facilitators accommodating newcomers or they’re just going to be bigots. The understanding is these are not important people, they are not the story. I think actually the experience of having your culture transformed before your eyes and inhabited by completely different people who were not invited – I think that is the story. It’s full of moral challenges.”

Lionel sees immigration as a definitive issue and that’s why she’s drawn to it: “Although I would qualify this novel has much more dimension than that. It is not meant to be restrictionist propaganda. I think it’s a book that represents all sides of the immigration debate. It doesn’t approach it as morally simplistic. I think everyone gets a comeuppance in this book including the highly progressive liberal altruistic mother who eventually brings considerable heartache on her family.”

“In some ways this book speaks for the host population but is also very critical because the host population is passive allowing this to happen whereas the immigrants in this book are represented as active,” she insists. “They’re going out and getting what they want. They want what you have and they’re going to get it. In a way the author is quite admiring of this and critical of people who allow themselves to be run roughshod over and give away their resources.”

Lionel believes, “Collectively Western civilisation is the most considerable civilisation the world has ever seen. It has made more advances in every field than any civilisation has ever made. It is something to be proud of but not to take credit for and I think that’s important. It’s something to feel an honour to inherit and an honour to transfer to another generation.” She lived in Belfast for 10 years from 1987.

Martina asks: “The title is A Better Life – for whom?” Lionel replies, “That’s the question. It’s a simple title. It is a resonant expression because we are constantly being told that immigrants are coming into our countries simply because they want a better life. The truth is everything we do in life is motivated to make our lives better. Just because someone wants something is it a good enough reason to give it to them?”

“To provoke a response in the reader is much better than putting them to sleep. A lot of books I encounter are genuinely soporific.” Lionel is in the ring. “I am not going to refuse to write about a subject because I am afraid of offending people. I am also always looking out for topics, plots, people, positions, perspectives that other people are not writing. It doesn’t make any sense for me to write another novel that illustrates that racism is bad. It doesn’t mean that I think racism is good but we don’t need that book right now. I like to write something that fills a gap about a subject that, sometimes for very good reason, no one else is writing about.”

“What do you mean by good reason?” questions Martina. The response: “It seems dangerous. It’s going to get you into trouble. It’s going to have the critics denouncing you. There have been leftwing critics who hate this book and that means I must have done something right. Although believe it or not I am a registered Democrat!”

Martina ends, “To wrap up – and remind everyone this is a literary festival! – do you have a tip for struggling writers?” The diminutive intellectual colossus leans forward: “I think the most important thing is to write whatever you damn well please and don’t worry about what other people think of you. Fearful writing is boring writing. Younger generations have been cowed so don’t allow yourself to be cowed. Don’t think you have to obey the rules. You can break all the rules you want as long as you do it with brio.” Nobody falls asleep during Ballyscullion talks.

Dr Charlotte Blease, who will give a talk the next day on her new book Dr Bot: Why Doctors Can Fail Us and How AI Could Save Lives, sums up the Sunday, “Ballyscullion Park Book Festival has a very eclectic mix of people and presentations: it’s a charming festival and day out. This event is extra special because of the warmth of the Mulhollands. This is the third year the family have opened their home and estate to host international writers. It’s the most memorable book event I’ve attended.” And so concludes Ireland’s leading literary festival for another year.

For book festival virgins and first timers to Ballyscullion Park, it’s easy to fall in love with both the event and the venue. Lionel Shriver declares in Abominations (2024) “falling in love twice is a lot of times”.

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Hôtel du Palais + La Rotunde Restaurant Biarritz

If You Know You Know

It’s the best address in town: One Avenue de l’Impératrice. Well, if it was good enough for Romy Schneider (performing in Tournage de La Banquiere 1980); Ernest Hemingway (Il passe l’ete 1959 a sillonner l’Espagne a bord de sa vielle Lancia suivant l’itineraire tauromachique du Mano à Mano de Luis Miguel Dominguin et d’Antonio Ordonex, preparant ainsi un livre sur la rivalite des deux plus grands Matadors de l’epoque. Sur la route, venant du Havre, Hemingway et sa femme Mary s’arreterent a Biarritz a L’Hôtel du Palais), Wallis Duchess of Windsor and Edward Duke of Windsor (inauguration of Biarritz Polo Grounds 1951) …

Dame Rosalind Savill, the relaunching Director of The Wallace Collection London, once quipped, “I hate the term ‘hidden gem’!” Hôtel du Palais, by anyone’s standards, isn’t a hidden gem. It’s the crown on the coast. The tiara atop the hill. Hidden gem, low key, undiscovered: none of these descriptions have ever been used for the finest hotel in Basque Country. The names of the salons of Hôtel du Palais recall its royal connections: Alphonse XIII, Edouard VII, Impérial, Mathilde. Second Empire style prevails throughout the hectarage of splendour.

A timber marquetry surfboard in the entrance hall crafted by artist Joël Roux is a reminder Biarritz is the capital of European surf. A hand painted surfboard in La Rotunde restaurant depicting the Emperor and Empress suggests deep down they really wanted to do more than fight wars and build palaces. Of course, they were dreaming of riding the waves fantastic.

The homogeneity of the architecture is deceiving, especially when viewed through a blaze of buddlejas. The current giant number three footprint is the outcome of several distinct building sprees. Architect Hippolyte Durand was appointed in 1854 to design a villa for the Empress Eugénie. Some things don’t change in the development industry: he was sacked the following year and replaced by the 27 year old Louis-Auguste Couvrechef. Three years later, Louis-Auguste died and was succeeded by Gabriel-Auguste Anclete. At least a few architects were kept employed. It’s still the best example of Louis the Hooey on the Bay of Biscay, new extensions included.

The words of Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors, echo across the marble halls, “Beautiful décor will always be one of life’s greatest pleasures.” She invented the phrase “shabby chic”. Hôtel du Palais is incroyablement chic.

Breakfast at the top table – centrally positioned in the vast semicircle that is La Rotunde to watch the crashing splashing arc of Atlantic – makes life worth living. Service à la Russe and buffet cater for the best of both worlds. Local delicacies include Gâteau Basque à la Cerise and Gâteau Basque à la Crème as well as Ossau Iraty and Bleu des Basques cheeses. A rainbow of juices covers apple, kiwi and spinach; apple, lemon and charcoal; lemon, carrot and orange. Eggs are easy like Friday mornings.

Later, Chef Christopher Scheller will share some epicurean seafood tips: “I love caviar particularly from Aquitaine, the world’s only caviar with Protected Geographical Indication status. We enjoy it Russian style in its purest form or served with ultra fresh peas for a subtle interplay between richness and vegetable sweetness.” He continues, “I’d heard of Banka trout by name but I only really discovered it when I arrived in the region. We cook it in various ways: home smoked in our own smokehouse, confit in fennel infused oil or simply seared on the plancha.” And, “We serve oysters from my friend Joël Dupuch. They can be enjoyed plain during our brunches or lightly grilled over charcoal at our garden parties, simply seasoned with a pinch of crushed Sarawak pepper. A real explosion of flavour.”

Much later, Christopher will share some epicurean vegetable tips: “Courgette flowers are true seasonal delights. We treat them like sweets. Raw and garnished with a delicate spider crab meat in the fining dining restaurant or as tempura in summer, to be savoured overlooking the ocean by the Sunset Pool.” He continues, “I discovered Les Cressonnières d’Aquitaine during my local research. I like to use their watercress in a fine hot cream to accompany scallops or serve it raw in a salad to add a touch of freshness to devilled eggs.” And, “White asparagus is this region’s signature produce. We prepare these Queens of the Sands in every possible way: poached and served with a citrus infused mousseline or pan seared and lightly caramelised with honey.”

Hôtel du Palais Biarritz: fit for an empress. Always.

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Architecture Art Design Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

Après Demain Restaurant Biarritz + Les Mains

Repas du Siècle 

Service pouvant être compose de: Ail des Ours. Algues. Anchois de Getaria. Anguille. Asperges de la Ferme Henri. Bourgeons de Pin des Landes. Blé. Caviar d’Aquitaine Impérial Petrossian. Céleri. Champignons. Chiperons de St Jean de Luz. Chocolat. Choux. Clémentine. Cochon Kintoa de Pierre Oteiza. Coriandre. Framboise. Fromages. Fruit à Coque. Fruit de la Passion. Fruits de Mer et Crustacés. Groseille. Gin Drouin. Litchi. Moutards. Noix de Coco. Oeuf et Lait de Ferme. Olives. Petit Pois. Piment d’Espelette. Piquillos. Pomme. Poissons selon la criée. Rose. Safran. Sésame. Shiso. Soja. Tequila. Tournesol. Truffe.

We get around the pneumatic galaxy. Paris, London, Barcelona: L’Ambroisie, Core, Lasarte. Three restaurants with three stars. Biarritz. Après Demain. One star, but how it glows. Never has the nod of approval from France’s finest vulcanised rubber factory been more deserved. Such vitality, energy, brightness, floating on daylight until twilight purples the evening. We glide up the steps from stylish Avenue Louis Barthou and sail across the jasmine scented terrace before landing at our table. The décor is reductivist rustic. It’s all about exposure: stone walls, timber suspended ceiling, linen free tables, raw talent. A wealth of artisanal flair contributed to the interior: cabinetmakers Quentin Delion and Adrien Mantel-Brotherwood; floral designer Estelle Ducasse; ceramicist Isabelle Lamourelle; florist Claire Perrin; and knifemaker Christophe Lauduique.Dinner is everything a meal should be: inventive, ingenious, original, unpredictable, zany, crepuscular. The last adjective is possibly venue specific. Our wonderfully well informed waitress explains, “The name of the restaurant is a pun, un jeu de mots. The first restaurant was called Demain so this is literally Après Demain. It also refers to a hand – le main – theme. The name also suggests the next better thing to come – après.” Hands down, the best triple entendre ever! So even the name of this three year old restaurant is avantgarde, a French portmanteau that somehow sneaked into English parlance.Chef Patron Matthias Leuliette tells us, “Today’s dreams will be tomorrow’s realities. We are the day after tomorrow. We want the name of our project to be a promise to support positivity and protective agriculture. More than just organic, we work collaboratively with our suppliers, respecting the land of our children and taking responsibility for their animals. In the spirit of a guesthouse, we want each guest to feel unique, and so we carefully craft your personalised experience in the moment with what nature has provided.” At Après Demain style goes hand in hand with substance.

The sommelier pops €92 Pessac Léognan Château La Louvière 2019 (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon). Experiénce en Nine Temps €105 is a culinary celebration – is that the right word? – of the Seven Deadly Sins. Matthias suggests, “The Seven Deadly Sins are the roots of our desires. Tame them, and you’ll discover not your flaws but your humanity. Each sin, is part of you and all of humanity. But it’s not the sins that define who you are: it’s the choices you make in the face of them.” A stack of cards illustrated by local artist Katang, placed on a petite easel on our table, is an aide memoire.

Our waitress arrives holding a glowing full moon. What sin could this be? A flick of a card reveals: “Greed, avaritae. Greed is the art of keeping everything to yourself. But tonight, who among you will be the greediest? Since, by definition, not everything is meant to be shared, you’ll need to choose or fight for it. It’s up to you and your negotiation skills.” She confirms, “The whole of the moon represents greed!” French band Air plays in the background. Aha! The album Moon Safari.

Matthias elaborates, “For millennia, the moon has guided humanity, lighting up the night and setting the rhythm of our cycles. But did you know it also influences the earth, plants and even wine? Used by winemakers and farmers practising biodynamics, the lunar calendar divides days into four elements: leaf, root, fruit and flower. Each element corresponds to the optimal time to cultivate, harvest or taste in harmony with natural cycles. It’s a balance between earth and sky, a subtle dance orchestrated by the moon. But mankind, in its pride, sometimes seeks to rise above these cycles, dreaming or mastering nature and perhaps even reaching for the moon itself. Tonight, we invite you to explore these lunar influences through a gastronomic experience that connects your plate to the earth and the stars.” Now that we’ve seen it, we’re ready to eat the whole of the moon.Another course, another card: “Anger, ira. The oceans are exhausted. Fish stocks are disappearing. Political silence echoes louder than the waves. Here, anger becomes a dish. Cuttlefish, a sustainable resource, takes centre stage. A scorching marine broth is poured over lava stone. It shivers, cracks, evaporates, like a boiling sea. This hotpot is an echo of warming waters, pollution, depletion of life. Anger does not ask for forgiveness: it compels.” A wildly imaginative consommé bubbles in front of us.

The sommelier pops €45 Bergerac Barouillet 2024 (Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Sémillon, Chenin, Muscadelle). Perhaps it was the Louvière or perhaps it is the Bergerac but the sins are sliding into a blur. We all get a different plate for the next course. Focus; card time: “Envy, invidia. Here, every plate is different. You have yours, but the other one catches your eye. Is it better? Prettier? Envy creeps in without warning – subtle, sharp, irresistible. One glance, and doubt is born. Envy is a game. And here, we play it with every service, that silent game between curiosity and frustration.” Earphones accompany this course: Johnny Halliday is singing his 1986 hit song l’Envie, “Qu’on me donne l’obscurité puis la lumière …”Bread stick trees with beetroot leaves, sorrel ice cream, caviar pudding, lacto fermented white asparagus, samphire and almond, seaweed brioche, watercress cream of garlic chives, lime and gin foam, a Sonia Rykiel inspired duck sorbet … Such pride in the presentation: the kitchen clearly doesn’t suffer fools or slothfulness. One other sin springs to mind during our ninth course. Card time: “Gluttony, gula. That moment when reason fades, giving way to the pleasure of tasting everything. Often seen as excess, it is above all a tribute to the joy of savouring life. Inspired by abundance and the dreams of a child before a table overflowing with sweets and comforting dishes, it invites exploration and sharing. Whether it’s a generous seafood platter or a delicate cascade of bite sized treats, gluttony celebrates both indulgence and comfort – and the irresistible urge to try it all.”

Après Après Demain, where will compare?

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Dunes Blanches + Résidence Victoria Surf + Churches + Villas Biarritz

Whatsoever Things

Destination discovered. That elusive locus of sassitude: Biarritz. We’re lounging outside a café enjoying coffee and the view, our Anglo Catholic work ethic dissipating in the heat. At the table next to us is elegance personified: think Sybil Connolly meets Catherine Denueve. She sends her male companion off and he returns with a box of Dunes Blanches, France’s finest pastries. For us. We’re seeing la vie en plage through sepia tinted glasses. All the vintage glamour of a Lana del Ray music video.

Javier Amézaga and Borja Peñeñori Alfonso write in Big Wave Basque Country (2024), “Coves, bays, cliffs, reefs, beaches, estuaries … in just a few kilometres, the Basque Coast offers a wide spectrum of all kinds of sea beds where you can surf when the biggest swells arrive.” Multiple metres of the white stuff roar and rise towards the golden strand of Biarritz. Nowhere in Britain is 120 kilometres from the coast: nowhere in Biarritz is 120 metres from the coast. Circa.

Putting the ritz into downtown Biarritz, one pub has a sign “Nos Champagnes” outside, listing Bollinger, Bruno Paillard, Dom Pérignon, Henri Giraud, Jacquesson, Krug, Veuve Cliquot. Casual. A two metre tall Hermés sign stands on a rooftop. Everything sounds so much classier in French: check out an estate agents called Une Villa et des Vignes. Not so in English: Banana Moon, Fancy and Oh My Cream don’t convey the same class.

A wine bar goes next level retail nomenclature. L’Art Dit Vin La Cave means Art Says Wine while suggesting it really should be Art is Wine. “Dit” sounds like “de”, the word “of”. The French love puns and this is one such jeu de mots. It’s also a play on the name of the well known chain L’Art de Vin. The roof terrace of Roc Seven Hotel, Veuve Cliquot Sun Club, does what it says on the umbrella awning.

Paris has Montparnasse Tower. Biarritz has Résidence Victoria Surf. The French capital’s tallest and most controversial skyscraper is about to get a £520 million makeover. Former Mayor Anne Hidalgo’s dramatic departing gesture was to secure the funding and commission architectural consortium Nouvelle AOM to get cracking on with cloaking the carapace and propping a greenhouse on top of the 59th floor restaurant.As far as we know, no such plans are in place for the Brutalist Résidence Victoria Surf, the largest and most prominently positioned apartment block in this town. The 350 apartments may have wonderful views but the view of Louis Arretche’s 1970s pyramidal architectural feat is not universally appreciated. Its Art Deco and half timbered farmhouse style neighbours are softer on the eye of the populace.A sign outside the red brick Imperial Chapel states: “This chapel was once located in the landscaped park of the Palais de Biarritz, the seaside retreat of the imperial couple. In 1881, during the subdivision of the park, it was fortunately preserved in a verdant setting. Built between 1864 and 1866 according to the wishes of Empress Eugénie, it commemorates French victories in Mexico. Its Romanesque exterior contrasts with a Moorish interior. Dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe, and designed in the style of Andalusian churches, an architecture Eugénie greatly admired, the Imperial Chapel is a unique and rare monument, emblematic of the era and the Empress’s personal tastes.” Architect Émile Boeswillwald clearly knew his French and Iberian onions.

Uphill stands the stone Russian Orthodox Church of the Protection of the Mother of God and St Alexander of the Neva. A plaque quotes Leviticus 19:18 “Aime ton prochain comme toi meme”. Designed by St Petersburg architect Nikolaï Nikititch Nikonov in collaboration with French architect Oscar Tisnès, the church was consecrated in 1892. Byzantine Revival at its sleekest. The original congregation was holidaying Russian nobility.

The skyline of Biarritz is pierced with pepper pot turrets. Towering over Veuve Cliquot Sun Club, the 1903 Villa Goéland is a jewel in the necklace of mini châteaux strung along the coast. Architect Gaston Ernest at his polychromatic best. Villa Belza is equally prominent and dates from the 1880s onwards. While the original architect was Alphonse Bertrand, its medievalisation was carried out to the design of Dominique Morin. Locution location. Destination covered.

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Architects Architecture Country Houses Design People

Tullylagan Manor + Tullylagan Country House Hotel Cookstown Tyrone

Many Mansions

A corrugated roof colour coordinating with a crinkly hedge. Driving out of Cookstown, vernacular soon gives way to splendour.

The evolution of country house styles over three centuries could be told through one estate on the outskirts of Cookstown in County Tyrone. Businessman Thomas Greer commissioned Thomas Jackson to design Tullylagan Manor. Born in 1807 in Waterford City to a Quaker family, Thomas moved to Belfast aged 22 and eventually became a partner in Thomas Duff’s office (Parkanaur in County Tyrone is one of the practice’s many projects). Belfast is still a benefiter of the diverse talent of Thomas Jackson, from the 1830s Greek Revival Old Museum Building (now home to Ulster Architectural Heritage) to the 1840s Tudor Revival St Malachy’s Catholic Church.

Built in 1828, Tullylagan Manor is a restrained Greek Revival house relying on the Doric order for detailing. It consists of a three bay (entrance front) and four bay (garden front) two storey over exposed basement villa and long lower two storey wing, faced in coursed ashlar sandstone, roofed in Bangor blue slates. The entrance is in a full height pilastered porch. Or rather consisted of a two storey over exposed basement. Montalto in County Down and Tullylagan Manor are rare examples of basements being excavated to form ground floors. In 1904, Thomas MacGregor Greer commissioned this structural work as well as exterior steps up to what became a first floor entrance.

Thomas MacGregor Greer (so many Thomases!) originally appointed London architects Alfred Henry Hart and Percy Leslie Waterhouse to design a replacement building. His grandfather’s neoclassical house must have looked positively old fashioned. The unexecuted design is very modern and very English. The layout includes state of the art bathrooms and a basement heating chamber. A proliferation of oriels, chamfered bays and gables along with transom and mullion windows creates a straight out of the Cotswolds look. The closest Alfred and Percy’s plans came to fruition was to be exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1904.

Four unsigned unexecuted schemes are in the Public Records Office Northern Ireland. One plan is for two extensions to the existing house, both projecting from the entrance front. Another plan for “Proposed Alterations to House” is much more radical. The extant drawings are of the basement, ground and first floorplans. The main reception rooms are laid out behind a two bay setback flanked by chamfered bay windows. A three storey return wing extends to the rear. Some rooms are named after colours (Blue, Crimson, Green, Pink, White and Yellow), others after outlook (East, West and South) and one after wood (Walnut). This proposal would have doubled the size of the house and created a symmetrical entrance front.

The largest proposal is for a replacement house. There are three layout variations: one with a central staircase hall; one with a central stadium shaped (rectangle with semicircle ends) hall with the staircase to the side; and another with a central polygonal hall with the staircase to the side. The fourth unexecuted scheme is of a symmetrical ground floorplan with a large semicircular porch. Accompanying sketches illustrate it was to be a two storey plus attic house. Elaborate details include Dutch gables with finials. Digging to expose the basement was clearly the least ambitious and most economic option. Perhaps Thomas MacGregor Greer decided Greek Revival wasn’t so bad after all.

A newbuild wouldn’t happen at Tullylagan until the end of the 20th century. Rather than replace Tullylagan Manor, owners Raymond and Hilary Turkington decided to build a 16 bedroom hotel in the ample grounds. Tullylagan Country House Hotel soon became one of the most popular destinations in the County. Turkingtons, their eponymous store in Cookstown remains one of the best interiors shops in the Province. Hilary’s brother designed the long two storey hotel in a neo Palladian form with a seven bay main block flanked by three bay setbacks terminated by gable fronted two bay wings. A square porch with a tripartite window to the front and entrance door to the side with 1930s style stained glass as well as a lush covering of ivy draping over the exterior add to its charm. Outbuildings of Tullylagan Manor were converted to further hotel accommodation. Tullylagan Country House Hotel closed in 2021: a new operator is sought to take it over.

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Bishop’s Palace Gardens + East Walls Hotel Chichester West Sussex

A Vapour That Appeareth

Black Mulberry Blue Colorado Spruce Cabbage Palm Cedar Deodar Chitalpa Copper Beach Cotoneaster Dawn Redwood Dogwood Eucryphia Evergreen Magnolia Fastigata Beech Fig Tree Flowering Cherry Flowering Crabapple Green Beech Handkerchief Tree Hawthorn Holm Oak Honey Locust Hornbeam Hybrid Elm Hybrid Lime Indian Rain Tree Italian Cypress Irish Yew Japanese Hackberry Japanese Red Cedar Judas Tree Laburnum Liquid Ambar Loquat Magnolia North American Indian Bean Tree Persian Ironwood Purple Maple Purple Sycamore Rowan Quince Red Leaved Prunus Sweet Chestnut Trachycarpus Palm Tibetan Cherry Tulip Tree Tupelo Variegated Sycamore Wellingtonia Redwood Wollemi Pine Yellow Buckeye.

Such is the arboretum that is the Bishop’s Palace Gardens of Chichester.

Day dancing to Constant Craving, Don’t Speak, Gloria, Music Box Dancer … in the voluted and cartouche’d and scrolled pedimented city that has a bar called The Ghost at the Feast and a street named Little London and a hotel called East Walls run by Jorge Kloppenburg and Anywhere Thompson. There’s a lot to unpick and unpack. “When there’s a challenge I say bring it on,” declares Anywhere, “and with faith you can do anything. We’ve expanded our chilli farm in Zimbabwe to 65 hectares. Here in Chichester we shop several times a week in the local farmers’ market. Everything is fresh and in season in our hotel. We only serve strawberries in July and August. We specially source Finger Post white wine and Vista Plata red wine for guests.”

Chichester CathedralChichester CathedralChichester CathedralChichesterChichesterChichesterChichesterChichesterChichesterEast Walls Hotel ChichesterEast Walls Hotel ChichesterAnywhere has three degrees. She seeks to be a role model for young women like her daughters, “I was working 40 to 60 hours a week and studying 40 hours a week. That’s how I achieved those degrees and I was running other things in the background. I want to be a voice and I will speak up no matter what it takes. My voice may not be heard today but it will resonate in time. Your colour does not and should not matter. What matters is in the inside.” She puts her beliefs into practice: the chilli farm provides employment for dozens of families and helps fund schooling.Her foundation degree was in physiology. “We were introduced to a morgue where I had to dissect a body,” Anywhere explains. “It’s about studying how organs, tissues and cells work together to maintain health. Then I did a biomedical science degree for four years. You learn about so much such as oxidative stress and how it is involved in age related conditions. Portsmouth University where I studied was the first in the country to introduce biomedical science. It’s known all over the world and so they invited me to specialise in clinical pathology. I now practise this medical specialty which focuses on diagnosing, treating and preventing diseases through analysing bodily fluids, cells and tissues.”

Nothing is a chimera to Anywhere.

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Muse Restaurant Belgravia London + Six Course Tasting Menu

We Are Amused

SupperClub Middle East is the world’s premium culinary and lifestyle concierge as seen on Travel Markets, UA News 247, Business News, Gulf News etcetera. Established in UAE in 2020, three years later SupperClub expanded into Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman and Saudi Arabia. Egypt, Jordan, Pakistan, South Africa and Turkey all then came on board. In 2026, the company now has a strong presence in Australia, Canada, France, Italy, Malaysia, Singapore, USA and UK. Global expansion continues at pace.

How does it work? Members access the SupperClub app and view offers in their region of choice, place a booking request, the selected venue receives an email, and the members pay at the venue with discount automatically deducted. The WhatsApp concierge is on it like a Bentley bonnet. We’re constantly amazed at the millisecond response rate. It’s such a discreet and seamless service. This is really all about luxury positioning for us higher disposable income individuals. They’ve got it sorted.There are three tiers of membership: Gold, Diamond and Platinum. Booking credit varies while all have unlimited reservations and guests as well as that beloved dedicated WhatsApp concierge. Diamond and Platinum have 12 months access to offers; Gold has six months. Platinum includes a generous restaurant spend. Exclusive offers cover food and beverage; spa and health club access; fitness and wellness packages; and crafted coffee. SupperClub’s growth involves ultra high profile partnerships with Adnoc, Emirates Skywards, HSBC, MasterCard, Samsung and Virgin.

“We’re already in Singapore, we’re already in Thailand, we’re looking at Japan,” co founder Muna Mustafa tells us (her business partner is Mehreen Omar). “The expansion is ongoing! SupperClub is also marketed through the Visa Airport Companion app which just recently launched. So this is really exciting because for the first time with Visa, restaurants are going to get visibility direct to consumers on the app. This ability to communicate directly with guests is another boost of visibility for our restaurants and it’s all about location based marketing.” No codes; real benefits.

As a successful entrepreneur, Muna is willing to share lessons learned. Her key guidelines include leveraging industry insights and market experience. “Our understanding of the hospitality industry, consumers, sector insights and customer pain points was a huge advantage in a crowded marketplace.” She also advocates taking a hands on approach from day one and creating the first proof of concept. “We built a hollow minimum viable product to sell our concept and get business of the ground. Focus on progress not perfection.” Pivoting in response to market dynamics and having a strong hold on performance metrics are two more of Muna’s key guidelines.

Many of the restaurants available through SupperClub are Michelin starred. We discuss the merits of the French grading system with Muna. “I love it!” she confides. “My favourite thing is please tell me in what order I should eat the food so that I don’t have to think of that! It never gets old.” Exactly a century ago the first Michelin Star was awarded (Georges Blanc, Vonnas). But it wasn’t until 1974 that Michelin came to Britain. Meals are judged on five criteria: quality of ingredients; mastery of gastronomic techniques; harmony of flavours; personality and emotion conveyed by the chef in the food; and consistency across both the menu and various visits.

One Michelin star is for a very good restaurant in its own category and worth a stop. Two stars is for excellent cooking and worth a detour. Three stars is for exceptional cuisine and worth a special journey. Musing where to go for Saturday lunch doesn’t take long when we realise Muse is on the SupperClub menu. Tom Aikens’ intimate fine dining experience in an exquisite Belgravia mews was barely open before it snapped up a Michelin star. The Chef has form: at 26 he was the youngest ever British chef to be awarded two Michelin stars (Pied-à-Terre, Fitzrovia).

Interior designer Rebecca Körner’s lively hallmarks – abundance of colour, use of eclecticism and fluidity of shape – are evident in fuchsia walls, contemporary design in a period building, and lagoon shaped mirrors. The same hallmarks could be applied to the most marvellous six course tasting menu – pinkish reddish rhubarb, fusing the best of British and finest of French cuisine ideas, and the curves and curls of Tom’s culinary art. “Ever since childhood I’ve been drawn to the unknown,” says Tom, “the thrill of a surprise, the joy of a guessing game, the kind of moment that leaves you speechless. This menu is shaped by that same spirit. You’ll find hints, clues and personal anecdotes woven throughout, each one echoing a chapter from my life and career.”

Are you ready? Tom gives the lowdown on each course. Forever Picking, “Snacks inspired by the seasons. This stems from my recollections of being in the garden with my mother and picking anything that was edible.” Custard, mullet and Montgomery cheese grand amuse bouches are sprinkled with edible flowers from Nurtured in Norfolk. Making and Breaking, “The comfort and satisfaction I get from bread comes from many memories along the way. To me, it means comfort, satisfaction, sharing, connection, love and of course the joy you receive from the actual making and eating of bread.” Leek, marmite and fermented butters accompany treacle flavoured bread. Just Down the Road: ricotta, blood orange, bitter leaves, “Many miles have been travelled and countless hours have been spent during my ongoing quest to find the very best of British producers to supply Muse with ingredients. We celebrate Old Hall Farm as one of them because it’s just down the road from where I grew up in Norfolk.” Three down three to go.

Never Ending Time: cuttlefish, turnip, shiso, “However simple a dish may look, the time it takes to prepare it can go unnoticed. I would always say savour, don’t devour. Many hours disappear in the preparing, cooking and perfecting of the cuttlefish.” The Love Affair: pigeon, bourguignon, wild garlic, “France is very close to my heart. I have spent years in the middle of France as well as the wine regions of the south and the Capital, slowly but surely developing my love affair with food and France. This continued working alongside a few great French chefs. This is my ode to France.” We swap this for an intriguing pescatarian option. Far Too Tempting: rhubarb, custard, ginger, “A love for sweet and sour stems from some of my favourite childhood treats including old fashioned fruit salad chew sweets, moon dust and sticks of rhubarb picked from my mother’s garden and dipped in sugar. This is nostalgic tastes from the past turned into something deliciously refreshing.” Six of the best. Make that six and a half: chocolate and honeycomb canapés end the lunch with aplomb.

Our inner oenophiles are more than satisfied: as SupperClub guests we’re treated to William Saintot Champagne. The well informed sommelier successfully tempts us with Ktima Gerovassiliou 2024, Greek rather than our usual French Viognier. She explains, “It’s rounder, less aromatic.” Our waitress has done her homework and discusses a mutual interest of architecture and travel. “Malaysia is a must,” she advocates, “you have to visit the scenic Tioman Island and the traditional stone buildings of Sarawak in northwest Borneo.”

Ding-a-ling. Greeted by name at the front door we were whisked up the stairs to sit at the bar opposite five chefs at work. This is intimate dining: six bar stools, two snugs and three two seater tables in a space five metres wide by four metres deep. The downstairs lounge and bar with its impressive lime green Brionvega Radiofonografo (an industrial style music system designed in 1965 by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni) have the same footprint. The top floor of this cute corner mews house contains the restaurant office. A Bibendum maquette takes pride of place on the first floor bar.

“I am a muse, not a mistress,” sings Marianne Faithfull, no mere bauble, in Sliding Through Life on Charm on her masterpiece album Kissin’ Time (2000). “I wonder why the schools don’t teach anything useful nowadays?” she ponders. “Like how to fall from grace and slide with elegance from a pedestal.” Tom Aikens doesn’t need to worry – he continues to slide through life on charm. And running a very good restaurant in its own category which is worth a stop. In our experienced view, Muse is worth a detour. Or even a special journey.

And now for another Borneo. We are delighted that the British Government’s Office for Place has chosen us as one of the main sources for its publication International Design Codes (2024). This guide for local authorities and property developers uses case studies to provide lessons for new schemes and districts. One of the case studies is square kilometres ahead of the rest: our Amsterdam favourite, Borneo Sporenburg.

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Architecture Country Houses Developers People

Castlecaulfield Castle + St Michael’s Church of Ireland Church + Reverend Charles Wolfe + Castlecaulfield House + Eskragh Lake Castlecaulfield Tyrone

Recalling the Age of Enlightenment

“It was a privilege and a pleasure to perform three of the greatest symphonies ever written. Each has a wonderfully strong individual character, culminating in the miracle which is the last movement of the Jupiter Symphony. As a viola player the part writing is remarkable, as enjoyable to play as Bach or Purcell!” Martin Kelly, Orchestra of the Age of Enlightenment, on Mozart’s World The Last Symphonies performed on 26 February 2026 at the Royal Festival Hall London. Inspired by the revolutionary thinking of the Enlightenment, this period instrument Orchestra was established in 1986.

Lady Diana Mosley, the eldest of the Mitford sisters, once said, ““The Jupiter Symphony of Mozart – it was the first really beautiful sublime music I ever heard and I suppose I must have been about 14. Although we only had a windup gramophone growing up we were able to listen to symphonies and so on – my brother Tom was very musical and I suppose he introduced me to great music.”

Nicholas Till observes in Mozart and the Enlightenment (1992), “The 18th century has often been portrayed as an era of extraordinary tranquillity and grace flanked by two violent and turbulent centuries, an age in which social order and political stability allowed the development of an amiable civilisation that combined moderation and manners with critical enquiry and a rational programme of social reform which was conducted with passion tempered by wit. This vision of culture and progress stretched with an apparent unity of purpose from late 17th century England to late 18th century Germany and was known as the Enlightenment, or, in German, the Aufklärung.”

And so to Castlecaulfield without so much as a subtle segue or tangential transition. Although glimpses of the 18th century concepts of the sublime and the picturesque may be found in this County Tyrone setting. Castlecaulfield is a small Plantation village founded in 1610 by Sir Toby Caulfield, later the 1st Lord Charlemont, who administered the O’Neill lands in Tyrone for James I following the Flight of the Earls in 1607. The stone remains of the Castle in Castlecaulfield standing next to a 20th century housing estate are one of the more extraordinary sights of Ulster.

A mansion with murder holes, the Castle was built between 1611 and 1619 by the Planter with grandeur and security in mind. Professor Alistair Rowan notes in Buildings of North West Ulster (1979), “The ruins are in two parts: the L shaped house of Jacobean character built by Sir Toby and at its northwest end a squat and more substantially built gatehouse that may have been part of the earlier Irish bawn. This is a separate block, 22 feet by 40 feet, with a vaulted entrance passage running the depth of the building with small chambers on either side and a round flanker at the northwest corner.”

Alistair writes about St Michael’s Church, Castlecaulfield, in the Parish of Donoughmore, “Built under the auspices of the Reverend George Walker, later the redoubtable defender of Londonderry, about 1680. Originally a plain hall, now cruciform, with a west tower of three stages with stepped battlements. The church presents today an intriguing mixture of 17th century Gothic and the newfangled Classicism of Lord Charlemont. The south porch, dated 1685, has crude Tuscan columns on high plinths, a salient entablature (that shrinks to just a cornice above the door), and two cherubs holding the Bible open at Psalm 24.”

He records that parts of the building were salvaged from the nearby original Parish Church of Donaghmore, built around 1622 and destroyed 19 years later. Most idiosyncratic is a pair of corbel stop heads of bearded stone gentlemen bearing a cartoon like quality. The bulk of the church – transepts, chancel and robing room – date from 1860. The surrounding graveyard rises from the entrance gates past the church and up to the west boundary overlooking fields.

A blue plaque on the entrance boundary wall states: “Reverend Charles Wolfe, 1791 to 1829, Poet Curate of Donaghmore, 1818 to 1823.” He is best remembered for his eight verse poem The Burial of Sir John Moore After Corunna (1817). The patriotic elegy celebrates the valour of the British Lieutenant General who led the defence of the Port of Corunna against French troops in 1809. Killed by cannon shot, there was no time for a hero’s burial but instead he was laid to rest on foreign soil.

“Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note,” is the opening line. It closes with, “We carved not a line, and we raised not a stone. But left him alone with his glory.” Charles was full of “zeal and “unaffected benevolence” in his clergy role according to contemporary records. Educated at Trinity College Dublin, his promising church career and creative talent were cropped by unlived experience when he died of tuberculosis aged 31. Charles’ emotional depth and focus on individual heroism mark him as a second generation Romantic poet, departing from the Enlightenment emphasis on reason: “No useless coffin enclosed his breast … But he lay like warrior taking a rest.”

A grand house dating from 1673 on a 14 hectare estate can be glimpsed over the high wall of the graveyard of St Michael’s Church. A gated passageway between gravestones leads through to the avenue. The principal front of the two storey Castlecaulfield House is a symmetrical seven bays with a central boxy porch. Curved flanking battlemented single storey walls elongate the façade, joined to a walled garden to the left and an outbuilding to the right. A date stone of 1785 in the stables suggests the house was probably aggrandised at that time. Two pane sash windows are later Victorian insertions. An irregular west elevation back onto fields. A vast first floor water tank precariously balanced on pilotis is attached to the gable wall of the return wing.

A couple of kilometres southeast of Castlecaulfield, the 22 hectare Eskragh Lough may be a natural lake set in the rolling Tyrone countryside but it looks like part of a landscape that Capability Brown could easily have dreamt up in the desire for the picturesque. And that rounds of this enlightening tour of the sublime Castlecaulfield.

Lady Diana Mosley’s sister, the novelist and biographer Nancy Mitford, once predicted her idea of the eternal Age of Enlightenment, “I firmly believe in a future life which I think will be absolutely heavenly in every respect because naturally of course I shall go straight to heaven and I envisage it as a beautiful park full of divinely pretty houses inhabited by one’s friends and I look forward greatly to it and there will be lots of lovely music like Sir Arthur Sullivan’s The Lost Chord absolutely nonstop booming out from morning to night, ah, how lovely it’ll be.” And hopefully Mozart’s Symphony Numbers 39, 40 and 41 booming out as well. Nicholas Till notes that, “Mozart’s religious faith included a fervent belief in an immortal soul and in an afterlife.”

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Architecture Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Lissan House Cookstown Tyrone + Mary Martin London + Janice Blakley

Jean Pull

“The killing of Cecil was sickening, he was an iconic lion … Mary’s creations are breathtaking and to model this dress is a great honour,” mourned the headline of the 21 November 2018 Belfast Telegraph. Journalist Leona O’Neill reported, “When Cecil the lion was shot and killed in Zimbabwe by American millionaire dentist Walter Palmer in the summer of 2015, it sparked worldwide condemnation. Many took to social media to vent their fury but London fashion designer Mary Martin went one step further and channelled her anger over the senseless death into creating a stunning dress that was then modelled by a Northern Irish animal rights activist.”

Janice Blakley is Chair of Grovehill Animal Trust, a cat and dog shelter in rural County Tyrone. Mary Martin established her eponymous fashion empire based in London over a decade ago. Lissan House outside Cookstown in County Tyrone isn’t the most likely place for these two worlds to collide but there’s a continuity of female power history: its last owner Hazel Dolling kept the place going singlehandedly and set up a Trust to open it to the public after the death. Oh, and the house is ridiculously photogenic – the atmosphere seeps into the photographs.

“It’s a very intricate design full of symbolism like all my dresses,” explains Mary. “Layers of black tulle around the neck and shoulders represent the mane of the lion. I’ve used black sparkling silk for the body of the dress as a reminder of the starlit open sky of Zimbabwe, the last thing Cecil would have seen as he lay dying. God’s creation is intrinsic to all my work.” Mary is well versed in diversity and anti adversity and versatility so she chose a half century year old woman as the ideal 21st century model.

Mary Martin is also heavily involved in charity work. This year alone she has been honoured with the Cultural Impact accolade at the London Fashion Awards and named as one of Africa’s Top 200 Most Influential Women. She was coronated as a Diaspora Queen Mother in Ghana for teaching children to sew and make clothes in schools and orphanages.

The Lion Dress may be one of Mary’s best known creations but why settle for one design when you can have several suitcases full? Once fully ensconced in Lissan House, Janice twirls around a bedroom, runs down a corridor and drinks tea in a ballroom donned in The Floral Dress, The Green Dress, The Black Queen Dress … This story was picked up by a raft of publications and even now social media posts still appear on this memorable meeting of an international fashion artist with an Irish animal rights advocate.

Mary isn’t participating in fashion art; she’s reframing it. Janice isn’t doing a campaign shoot; she’s an anti shooting campaigner.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Design People

Lissan House + Demesne Cookstown Tyrone

Lack of the Axial Aesthetic

Ever since featuring it in the August 1995 edition of Ulster Architect, we have returned to Lissan House on numerous occasions down the years. Over a decade ago, we recalled the contrast between this Irish estate and English equivalents. On a visit to Polesden Lacey near Dorking in Surrey, the lawn had resembled a scene from a Baz Luhrmann movie. In sweltering heat, an alfresco jazz band had serenaded hordes of picnickers, sightseers and sunbathers. Another jaunt was to Calke Abbey near Swarkeston in Derbyshire. Once England’s least known country house, even on a misty day the car park was full and the adjacent fields had been turned into an overflow. Tours of the house were timed to avoid overcrowding.

Not so Lissan. While across the water, brown sign hunters in their Hunters queued to see how the other 0.1 percent had once lived, this County Tyrone estate has been peacefully free of picnickers, sightseers and sunbathers on all our visits. Admittedly both National Trust houses mentioned are close to conurbations while Lissan House is just over five kilometres from Cookstown, population circa 12,000. “I hope you felt privileged to have it all to yourselves,” begins Nicholas Groves-Raines. His architectural practice was responsible for the restoration of the house. “Lissan is a hidden, secret place and that is part of its great charm. It is well off the main tourist routes, the M1 and M2, and away from the tourist centres such as the north coast and Belfast, making it harder to entice visitors. However it is used by the local community and on a number of occasions they have even had to employ overspill parking for events.”

He explains, “The works recently completed at Lissan are only a first phase of a larger scheme to redevelop the demesne and bring all of the derelict buildings back into use as funds allow. In the next few years, it is hoped that Lissan will become a much more lively place whilst retaining its unique character. It would be good to firmly place Lissan House on the tourist map of Northern Ireland.” Lissan had its 15 inches of fame back in 2007 when the last owner fronted a campaign to win funding on the TV programme Restoration. In the end it lost out to Manchester’s Victoria Baths. Again a case of population density influencing situations.

Nicholas decided to specialise in conservation after witnessing the needless destruction of historic town centres and buildings in the name of modernisation. “I am an accredited conservation architect but work on a variety of projects including newbuilds,” he says. Born in County Down in 1940, he trained at Edinburgh College of Art. Nicholas and his Icelandic architect wife Kristín Hannesdóttir have bought and restored a succession of historic properties in the Scottish capital as their family home: Moubray House (1972), Peffermill House (1980), Liberton House (1997) and Andrew Lamb’s House (2010).

“Newhailes, just outside Edinburgh, is like Lissan,” Nicholas continues. “Now run by the National Trust for Scotland as a visitor attraction, it too was used as a family house until recently. Newhailes is a time capsule from the 18th century, having changed little from that period. Like much of Lissan, it remains pretty much as it was when the Trust acquired it. The house hasn’t been ‘restored’ as such, having only had essential repairs carried out to preserve it for the future.”

The exterior of Lissan House has changed fairly radically though. Out, mostly, went the casement windows. The one shade of grey of the walls disappeared. Nicholas relates, “Early photographs show the house had sash and case windows until the late 19th century. A few sashes had been reused in the buildings, so we did have good examples of the original detailing to work from. The modern casements were constructed from inferior quality timber and were not weatherproof due to poor workmanship and rot. They were crudely fitted into the former sash boxes that were still built into the walls. The majority were beyond repair and so a decision had to be made about what form the new windows should take. Sashes were installed to match the originals. The few windows that are not now sashes were mostly part of a late 19th century extension.”

The cement based render also dated from the late 19th century. “It was in poor condition and holding dampness in the walls,” he tell us. “There was ample evidence of the original lime render and off white limewash remaining in sheltered areas, backed up by early photographs that confirmed the house had previously been lighter in colour. The new lime render and limewash allow the walls to breathe and should protect the house for many years to come. Limewash helps to prolong the life of lime render.” The late Dorinda Lady Dunleath once recalled her childhood visits, “I used to go to dancing classes at Lissan. It was always so cold!”

Despite its size – 20 plus bedrooms – Lissan House is provincial rather than grand, almost devoid of architectural ornament. “The Staples family were originally industrialists rather than landed gentry,” says Nicholas. “Early visitors to the house mention a noisy forge nearby where locally mined iron was worked. Lissan started out as a much smaller house that was extended again and again over the centuries as money and tastes dictated. Unlike many mansions it was not built in a single phase to the designs of a professional architect or master builder. It is an accumulation of its varied history.” Lissan House Trustees now look after the house and estate. Several doorcases with shouldered architraves are evidence of a mid 18th century rebuilding. The only celebrity architect associated with Lissan, Davis Ducart, is thought to have designed the lake and Chinoiserie bridge around the same time as the rebuilding.

In her last interview before she died in 2006 aged 82, last in the line Hazel Dolling née Staples explained to us, “The roof at one time rose to a huge peak in the sky and is now double pitched and has given a lot of trouble over the years as there is only one downpipe for all the rainwater. This was quite a common arrangement in old Irish houses. The huge stones in the walls make it very difficult to introduce water pipes. One simply meets solid rock and has to try again. The lime plaster was over two inches thick and was made with horse hair.”

She recalled, “The farmyard was beautifully designed with its fine stables, large barns, byres and turf houses, all well shingled. The turf house is still a great feature of the demesne to this day; all the buildings have fine arches and walnut trees stand in the centre, planted so as to keep the visiting carriage horses cool, as flies disliked the pungent smell of walnut. In good summers they provide great nuts for eating and pickling. The yard and the four and a half acre walled garden were planted with hedges, fruit trees and flower gardens. A fine well shingled summerhouse no longer exists but many years ago someone built huge greenhouses. One was heated for lemons and melons, one for peaches and nectarines, one contained the vines.”

“It is very quiet in the house at night but I know all the creaks,” Hazel shared. “I live in a flat at the very top of the house which has the most wonderful views in every direction. There is a delicious smell of sandalwood or incense at times. When my husband was 90 he used to see all sorts of people sitting in rooms including undertakers in tall stove pipe hats. Visitors talk of people walking around in the night when no one is astir. I have a friend who has seen Lady Kitty here, Sir Thomas Staples’ widow, who made off with all the Lissan Plates. She said she was wearing a beautiful pink silk dress.”

Nicholas ends, “Lissan is unique and contains relics and remnants from all of its past, some of which are probably still hidden.” The house is full of charming quirks. The bow windowed Coachman’s Room joined to the early 19th century Tuscan porch by the arched canopy of the porte cochère. The Long Passage wing – tongue and groove panelled on one side, glazed on the other – linking the first floor of the main block to the stable yard resembling a train carriage suspended midair from the outside. The four storey cylindrical tower housing the secondary (spiral) staircase with a clock over its column of windows. An amber paned bay window bulging out from the Ballroom, a Victorian extension. The lean to glasshouse has long gone.

Hazel talked about the origins of the largest reception room: “My ancestor Sir Thomas, 9th Baronet, was much given to entertaining and for his musical evenings he built the beautiful Ballroom attached to the east of those, overlooking the Lissan Water and the Cascades and the Water Gardens. The Ballroom had Chinese wallpaper, central heating and a sprung floor, and was furnished in black and scarlet. Guests were required to put up with chamber music all day and half the night and this wasn’t to everyone’s taste. Very little of the wallpaper has survived but the huge marble fire marble is still intact and reliefs of Greek horses in a frieze over the massive double doors to the Library and the Blue Room. The room is glazed in orange and white glass, and in late summer, overlooks a steep bank of willow herb which falls down to the river and, in the evening light, fills the whole room with a beautiful rosy pink. The room was originally lit with candles and oil lamps but in 1902 when the water turbine was installed very attractive hanging electric lights with small green shades were bought to hang from the central dome.”

Most extraordinary of all – charming quirkiness taken to a whole new level – is the staircase which spreads horizontally and diagonally and vertically across and sideways and up the cavernous entrance space, with more dog legs than Crufts and more landings than Heathrow. Debo, 11th Duchess of Devonshire, referred to the staircase leading to her private quarters in Chatsworth, Derbyshire, as “a granted moment of privileged access”. The privileged access of Lissan is now shared with the public.

Jeremy Musson wrote up Lissan for Country Life in the 12 March 1998 edition. He states, “Sir Nathaniel Staples’ remarkable folie de grandeur was the vast Piranesian staircase, a dramatic, if eccentric, rearrangement of the 17th century staircase, which rises to the full height of the roof. The sketch of the original staircase by Ponsonby Staples, Sir Nathaniel’s youngest son, shows it coming out into the Hall’s centre, the set of triple balusters on each level were included and imitated in the new staircase, presumably built by an estate carpenter. Some were incorporated into the shelves above the Hall’s chimneypiece. The ceiling of part of the Hall and the Library were redone in pitch pine.”

Hazel for the final time, “The large Parlour, wainscoted in oak, has a very handsome staircase with 604 handmade balusters or banisters as they were called, all slightly different and some even put in upside down. There are 65 steps to the top of the house and five lands. Records refer to pretty closets and good garrets on the top floor of the house but some of these over the Hall were removed when the floors rotted away and the Hall now opens right up to the roof.” Jeremy surmises that more than half the house’s books, part of a huge library sold in 1900, were kept on the staircase and landings.

Lissan House is a rare survival of an Ulster country house last revamped in Victorian and Edwardian times. Mourne Park House outside Kilkeel in County Down (which also had a remarkable staircase) was another survivor which we knew well before it was badly burnt in 2013. A mid 20th century photograph shows a Staples wedding at their house Barkfield in Formby, Lancashire. It was recently restored by new owners. A Staples owned country house in County Laois, Dunmore near Durrow, was demolished around 1960. The 100 hectare Lissan Demesne is far enough from Cookstown to not be under threat of development. Soon, we will learn Lissan House can be hired for major fashion shoots.

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Art People

David Hockney + A Year in Normandie + Some Other Thoughts About Painting Serpentine Galleries London

A World Apart

“I have always believed that art should be a deep pleasure. There is always, everywhere, an enormous amount of suffering, but I believe that my duty as an artist is to overcome and alleviate the sterility of despair … New ways of seeing mean new ways of feeling. I do believe that painting can change the world.” And if any artist’s paintings can change the world, they are David Hockney’s.

A monumental digital printed mural wraps its way round the internal perimeter of Serpentine North. It’s like sitting in his garden in the north of France taking in the panorama through the seasons. A Year in Normandie, 2020 to 2021, is formed of more than 100 iPad paintings. The 88 year old isn’t afraid of embracing recent technology while still painting traditionally. This exhibition features the best of both worlds. Sterility of despair begone!

Five new still lifes and five portraits of his family and carers hang in the central space of the gallery. These paintings are united by their geometric frontal compositions and the recurring motif of a gingham tablecloth. Two more worlds collide: figurative and abstract art. David considers that as long as it is on a flat surface all figurative art is inherently abstract.

Hans Ulrich Obrist, Artistic Director of Serpentine Galleries, says, “We are excited to present a new exhibition by one of the world’s most important artists … In his new portraits he captures not only his sitters but also the very act of seeing, while the frieze offers a deeply personal meditation on the passage of time.” David Hockney offers us a slower, more colourful world where nature is nearer and a love for life is apparent. Outside, a swan swims up The Serpentine into the morning sun.

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Architects Architecture Design Developers Hotels Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

Grand Central Hotel + Grand Central Hotel Belfast

With Th’Angelic Host

How to Get from Belfast to Heaven written by Lisa McGee of Derry Girls fame and directed by Michael Lennox of dynastic renown is a great tourism advert for Ireland and the Six Counties in particular. This Netflix comedic thriller is also worth watching to play spot the filming location. Buildings of South County Down by Philip Smith (2019) contains two: the 1830s St John’s House (a singular shade of grey) in Killough and the nearby 1840s St John’s Point Lighthouse (black and yellow wasp stripes). One of the early scenes is shot in The Seahorse Restaurant of Grand Central Hotel on Bedford Street, south of Belfast City Hall.

The original Grand Central Hotel opened in 1893 on Royal Avenue, north of City Hall. Erected as the 19th century came to a close, it was a five storey plus attics 200 bedroom hotel with a corner copper dome over an octagonal turret. The elaborate Italianate red brick elevations were dressed with stone ornamentation. Sir Charles Lanyon’s son John was the architect. Octogenarians recall it being the venue for important job interviews, special occasion dinners and high society events. The Grand Central was Belfast’s top hotel until it closed in the late 1960s as The Troubles turned the city centre into a no go zone. Castlecourt shopping centre replaced the hotel in the 1980s.

The London equivalents of the original Grand Central are, or in some cases, were: The Grand, Trafalgar Square (1881, Frederick Francis, Henry Francis and James Ebenezer Saunders, interior scooped out to insert offices and façade thinly reinstated in the late 20th century); The Langham, top of Oxford Street (1865, John Giles and James Murray, extended in the late 20th century); The Ritz, Green Park (1906, Charles Mèwes and Arthur Davis, correctly extended 2026); The Savoy, The Strand (1889, Thomas Colcutt, revamped in the 1920s); and The Strand Palace, The Strand (1909, Sir Henry Tanner, rebuilt two decades later, still there today).

In recent years, Hastings Hotels has flown the flag of high end hospitality in Northern Ireland. The collection includes Ballygally Castle (Ballygally, County Antrim), Culloden (Cultra, County Down), Everglades (Derry City, County Londonderry), Stormont (outer Belfast), Europa (inner Belfast) and since 2018, Grand Central (inner Belfast). Europa and Grand Central hold a similar record: the former as the world’s most bombed hotel and the latter as the world’s most bombed office block. Hastings Hotels also has a 50 percent share of The Merrion, one of Dublin’s finest establishments.

Ballygally Castle, Culloden and Stormont all started life as country houses. The Merrion was once a row of townhouses. Europa is the only purpose built hotel in the collection. Grand Central used to be Windsor House. Marcus Patton describes the building in Central Belfast An Historical Gazetteer, 1993, “Tall office block of 24 storeys including two storey black marble podium and attic level, the upper levels being clad in white mosaic panels; with a narrow frontage to Bedford Street but extending back considerably. At 270 feet, this is the tallest building in Northern Ireland. In 1852 a new stone warehouse had been built on this site for Robert and John Workman, linen and muslin manufacturers, by Sir Charles Lanyon. One of the first developments in the street, this was four storeys high with channelled ground and first floors, central first floor balcony, arched tops to third floor windows, outer bays set slightly forward, and chimneys rising above deep eaves.”

Taggarts architects retained Dennis McIntyre and Devon’s 1970s concrete frame and faced the structure with dark cladding giving it a contemporary £53 million facelift. Above the 300 bedrooms (50 percent more guest accommodation than its namesake) is the penthouse level Observatory Bar and Restaurant with its 360 degree panorama of this small city. Cave Hill looms to the north. Harbour and Laganside to the east under the embrace of the Holywood Hills. Twin peaks of St Peter’s Catholic Cathedral to the west. And surprisingly, the view to the south stretches over the city and on to the Mourne Mountains. The view inside is of the beautiful people.

The Protestant United Irishman freedom fighter Wolfe Tone made this entry in his June 1795 diary: “I remember two days we spent on the Cave Hill. On the first Russell, Neilson, Simms, McCracken and one of two more of us on the summit of MacArt’s Fort took a solemn obligation which I think I may say I have on my part endeavoured to fulfil – never to desist in our efforts until we had subverted the authority of England over our country and asserted our independence.” In his 1955 memoir, the great writer Clive Staples Lewis recalled, “County Down in the holidays and Surrey in the term – it was an excellent contrast.” He saw the Holywood Hills as “an irregular polygon” and the Mournes were famously his inspiration for the land of Narnia.

Grand Central Hotel is linked to the past and not just in name. Its seahorse motif symbolises Belfast’s maritime heritage. Curtain fabric pattern is inspired by the flax flower of Ulster’s linen history. The building has not been restored to its former glory – a depressing Civil Service office block. Instead, it has been reimagined as a symbol of the revification of Belfast as a tourist destination. The interior is filled with literary and artistic references. A framed extract from local poet Paul Muldoon’s composition Belfast Hymn (2018) is on a stairwell: “Known too, the best days begin and end at the Grand Central where we counter the cold and damp with oatmeal, ancient grains, entrecôte aux champignons, champ, a flute of gold Champagne.”

Another extract is engraved on the glass wall of the lift: “The flute on which James Galway soared was really made of gold. Some dwell in the House of the Lord and some on the threshold of hotels like the Maritime. Van Morrison and Team summoning from our glow and grime meticulous mayhem.” Paul explains, “I was tempted by the idea of trying to write a new poem about Belfast for several reasons. The first is that, despite my not having lived here since 1986, I still feel very connected to the city. I came here first as a child in the 1950s, usually traveling by train via Portadown … In 1969, I came to Queen’s University as a student, just as things were hotting up on the streets. On July 21, 1972, a date that would become known as Bloody Friday, Smithfield Bus Station was bombed. Smithfield Market was destroyed by incendiary bombs in 1974. By that stage I was at the BBC, where I worked as a radio and television producer between 1973 and 1986. I spent several of those years in an office in Windsor House. Having long been an admirer of the Hastings family and their profound sense of civic responsibility, I am delighted to offer this poem in the spirit of hope and the idea of home they so wonderfully embody.”

A gigantic artwork Still Life Consommé Cup dominates The Seahorse Bar. Born in Lancashire, artist Neil Shawcross spent his working life teaching at Belfast College of Art. His painting – not dissimilar to Chi Peng’s two cups and saucers Scattered Aesthetic and Concrete Depth in the foyer of Waldorf Astoria Beijing – symbolises the return of dining elegance. A mural by Tandem Design hangs over The Seahorse Restaurant. The illustrated mythology represents Sir Arthur Chichester (who established the city in 1611) as a wolf. A seahorse makes an appearance in the mural. Even the staircase has a life size seahorse wrapped round its newel post.

A trawl through the Public Records Office Northern Ireland reveals highly sensitive documents dating from around the War of Independence era. A memo stamped “Secret” dated 2 June 1922 states, “Owing to the recent activities in the city it appears to be very important that the Night Watchmen be armed, and it is therefore hoped that this matter may be treated as urgent … The matter has been discussed with Mr Harrison and Colonel Goodwin, and it is understood that if no regular constables are available, there would be no difficulty in engaging Special Constables for this work. The Minister of Finance has arranged for the building to be closed to the general public from 5.00pm to 8.45am Monday to Friday, and from 1230pm Saturday to 8.54am Monday, and I am directed to request that suitable protection be afforded, and that, if necessary, additional Special Constables be engaged. A plan of the thrid floor of the building is attached. The remaining floors are almost identical.” John Robinson, Establishment Division, Ministry of Finance.

A Minute Sheet dated 2 June 1922 from the Secretary of Ministry of Finance, to the Secretary of Home Affairs is titled Protection of Grand Central Hotel. It records: “I am directed by the Minster of Finance to state that the question of police protection of the Grand Central Hotel has been under consideration, arising out of a request received from the Ministry of Pensions. The building consists of six floors and has two entrances. It is, however, proposed to close all entrances except the main entrance, and convert the rear and side entrances to emergency exits. The protection of this building was recently considered together with all other Government buildings, and doubt was expressed as to whether effective protection could be afforded.”

It wasn’t just members of the public staying eating and sleeping in the hotel. “As you are no doubt aware, a considerable number of people visit the building daily to attend the undermentioned offices: Ministry of Pensions, Ministry of Labour, Ministry of Finance (Works and Valuation), Inland Revenue Inspector of Taxes and Post Offices Engineer, and it is not possible to institute a system of passes or interview forms. The provision in the building of sleeping quarters for men offering themselves for recruits for His Majesty’s Forces is a very undesirable feature, and the military authorities are being asked to accommodate these men elsewhere.”

Protection for Grand Central Hotel was estimated at £6,000 per annum. “It is considered that the building is most liable to attack between 6.30am and 8.45am during the time the cleaning staff is on duty, from 12.00 noon to 2.15pm when the staff is depleted during the luncheon interval, and from 5.00pm to 8.00pm when the building is almost deserted except for casual attenders at the Ministry of Pensions Clinics and Inland Revenue Office. An armed Night Watchman is on duty from 9.00pm to 7.00am and a caretaker sleeps on the premises. The technical staff has arranged for alarm bells to be installed and a wire screen to be affixed insider the main entrance, and they are of opinion that the two Constables patrolling each corridor from 6.30am to 9.00pm would provide suitable protection. The matter is, however, submitted for the consideration of the police authorities for their opinion, which will be accepted.”

On a brighter note, the Public Records Office Northern Ireland holds a very meaty menu for Christmas Luncheon in the Grant Central Hotel on Friday 25 December 1964 (25 shillings a head). Honeydew Melon, Pâté Maison, Soused Herring. Rich Brown Game Soup, Scotch Broth. Salmon Mayonnaise, Fried Fillet of Sole Tartare Sauce. Roast Irish Turkey Gammon Cranberry Sauce, Roast Leg of Pork Apple Sauce, Roast Sirloin of Beef Horseradish Sauce. Roast Irish Chicken Bacon Bread Sauce. Cold Buffet: Irish Ham, Assorted Meats, Roast Turkey, Brussels Sprouts, Green Peas, Seasonal Salad, Creamed Roast Potatoes. Fresh Jellies, Plum Pudding, Sherry Trifle, Fruit Salad, Dairy Cream, Mince Pie. Assorted English Cheeses and Biscuits. Tea or Coffee. It’s enough to turn the most dedicated carnivore vegetarian.

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Architects Architecture Design Developers Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

The River Café + The River Café Café Hammersmith London

The Intangible Asset

Last summer Sir John Soane’s Museum in Holborn played host to the first retrospective in Britain of the renowned architect Sir Richard Rogers’ work. South of the River Thames, his widow Lady Rogers continues to run London’s most celebrated Italian restaurant. New York born Ruthie opened The River Café with fellow chef Rose Gray in 1987. A decade later it earned a Michelin Star. Not bad for what started out as a work canteen for the architectural practice. Rose died in 2010; Richard, 2021.

The restaurant is on the ground floor of a repurposed storage warehouse called Thames Wharf Studios which is located on one of the many bends in the Thames. Nothing too fancy, nothing too flash. Understated reddish brick architecture backing onto a quiet residential street south of the leafy Frank Banfield Park yet a short walk from the transport hub of Hammersmith.

A reconnaissance is obligatory for lunch so the first visit is to The River Café Café for a £4 morning Americano and £6 pistachio cake. The little sister is on the ground floor of the neighbouring building and shares the same décor: more to come on that. Guests can create their own River Café Café café experience at home: cookbooks and kitchen items are for sale.

Last year Rogers Stirk Harbour and Partners moved to The Leadenhall Building in Bank, better known as The Cheesegrater. That skyscraper was of course designed by Lord Rogers. Thames Wharf Studios are due to be redeveloped but the owners, London and Regional and Marco Goldschmied (a former business partner of Richard Rogers), are keen for the restaurant to stay on site. So for now The River Café is still close, but not too close, to the blue ribbon heart of the city.

The food stands out on distraction free white paper covers laid on linen tablecloths. Skipping antipasti it’s straight to primi for Capesante in Padella: seared Scottish scallops with grilled pepperoncino, Chianti vinegar and smashed Delica pumpkin. Secondi is Sogliola al Forno: whole Dover sole wood roasted with cedro lemon, marjoram and a forest of Violetta artichokes. The Dover sole is filleted of course – lunch shouldn’t be hard work. An Amalfi Coast of freshness, Rimini ripeness, very Vernazza. There’s always the excitement of pudding and dolci doesn’t disappoint. Lemon Peel Tart is a slice of Sorrento on a plate.

The restaurant is a rectangular space. On one of the long sides, the zinc bar fronted open kitchen faces towards the road. On the other long side, French doors open onto a terrace which backs onto a public walkway abutting … the river. The pattern free interior decoration matches the tablecloths and vice versa. Two white walls; two green walls; blue carpet; silver seats; and a pink wood fired oven. Not just any pink – Hot Pink, Zandra Rhodes’ Hair Pink, Rogers Pink.

Lunch at The River Café isn’t cheap. Even with a bottle of entry level wine (Chianti Roufina Vendemmia 2023) it’s just over £200 a head for three courses. Special occasion pricing or at least an expensive toast to a random Saturday afternoon in January. But that’s the price to be seen at London’s buzziest restaurant. Everyone is dressed to thrill – or at least almost everyone. A customer in jeans winding his way through the tight clustering of circular tables looks distinctly underdressed. Even if they are Versace jeans.

Television producer and screenwriter Jemima Khan is sitting at the next table with a male companion. She’s just celebrated her 52nd birthday and is looking youthfully suave in a monochromatic Chanel suit and Gucci shades. Fellow guests appear vaguely familiar in that café society last spotted at Annabel’s nightclub way.

An architecture model at reception is a reminder of the restaurant’s provenance.

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Architects Architecture Design Developers Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

Shangri-La Hotel The Shard London + Sky Lounge Sunday Brunch

The Sky’s Not the Limit

Where to, where to? Andaz Hotel, Doha? Armani Hotel, Dubai? Bab Al Qasr Garden, Abu Dabhi? Il Baretto, Riyadh? Jumeirah Muscat Bay, Oman? Reyna, Paris? Sachi Milano, Milan? Wassim Aal Baher, Anfeh? Paris (and everywhere else) can wait. We’re off to the Shangri-La Hotel in London’s most striking cloudscraper. The Hall of Abstinence in Beijing’s Forbidden City already a fading memory, today is all about the bottomless Veuve Cliquot Champagne Sunday Brunch in the Sky Lounge on level 34. No rest for the wonderful. SupperClub Middle East has 700 plus exclusive worldwide offers and Shangri-La is just one of them in the English Capital.

Britain’s tallest building – all 95 storeys of it – is the ultimate vertical town. It replaced a titchy 24 storey office block on this valuable site next to London Bridge. Owned by the State of Qatar (95 percent) and Sellar Property Group (five percent), The Shard contains shops, offices, restaurants, bars, apartments, a public viewing gallery and of course the 202 guest room Shangri-La Hotel which takes up the middle 18 floors. Italian architect Renzo Piano took inspiration from the spires of London churches and the masts of tall ships in Canaletto paintings of Venice. On 5 July 2012, The Shard was formally inaugurated by His Excellency Sheikh Hamad Bin Jassem Bin Jabor Al Thani, Prime Minister of the State of Qatar. Its name should really be pluralised: the exterior comprises eight shards of glass slicing through the air.

“Standing at almost 310 metres,” says His Excellency Sheikh Abdulla Bin Saoud Al Thani, Governor of Qatar Central Bank, “The Shard is one of the tallest buildings in Europe. For me, however, the height of The Shard is only a secondary feature. What is special is the solid and continuing relationship between two nations, Qatar and Britain, which was an important factor in completing this project.” Just into its second decade, the point of The Shard is already as integral to the London skyline as the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral. Lunching two years ago in Passionné restaurant, Paris, the waiter and waitress (a couple) excitedly told us about their first visit to London. Where did they head for first? The Houses of Parliament? The National Gallery? The Shard.

The double height Sky Lounge lives up to its name. Fully glazed sloping walls face the ever changing elements while framing views of the Capital far below: Blackfriars Bridge to the west; the City of London to the north; Tower Bridge to the east. Even the bathroom has its own panorama with Southwark Cathedral in the foreground. The three course menu is long enough to satisfy the carnivore to vegan spectrum and short enough not to be hard work on the day of rest. Devon Crab Pancake (avocado, lemon aioli, rainbow relish) and Beetroot Tartare (St Ewe’s organic egg yolk, walnuts, beetroot cracker) are wonderfully light, full of taste and textural contrast. A double buffet follows: The Cheesemonger and Sweet Sensation. Belt bursting Continental and British cheeses vie for attention with irresistible cakes and puddings.

This is our third venture up The Shard. The first was a (very memorable) Royal Town Planning Institute party in December 2019 commandeering the Sky Lounge to crown a year of professional accomplishments. The second (somewhat memorable) was the launch of the Essex Mayoralty Race in December 2025 in the private dining room of Mitie on Level 12. The election was postponed the night before but the breakfast went away anyway. Sunday brunch in the Shangri-La Sky Lounge will soon become a new memory of an elevated afternoon. As winter light glistens over the River Thames in the distance, we raise our crystal Champagne flutes to this 21st century Crystal Palace.

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Architecture Art Design People

Spiritual + Physical Health Beijing

Real State  

A cross rising above the central pediment of an attractive if somewhat anonymous looking two storey rendered building may seem at first glance to be a surprising addition to the skyline just north of the Forbidden City in Beijing. Yet Kuanjie Methodist Church in Dongcheng District is one of an estimated 6,000 registered Christian churches and 15,000 registered ‘meeting points’ for five million believers in China. In 1967 the Bamboo Curtain (the Asian equivalent of Europe’s Iron Curtain) was lifted allowing international exchanges in knowledge and ideas to take place. At the same time a desire for spirituality and a religious search for meaning gained momentum. Ever since, the visible growth of Christianity during the post Mao era has been dramatic.

Khiok-khng Yeo is a brilliant academic bridging the gap in Western language led theology to reach a Chinese audience. He seeks to translate his understanding of God and humanity into the indigenous philosophical language of his own country. In What Has Jerusalem to Do with Beijing? Biblical Interpretation from a Chinese Perspective (2018), he filters Christianity through a Chinese prism: “Scripture does not contain syllogistic arguments for the existence of God; rather, it assumes that God exists. The scriptural tradition presents evidence for the existence and nature of God as an encounter with the living God. This tradition is in harmony with Chinese theology, especially when adapted to the yin yang model that speaks of the dynamic, bipolar nature of things.”

“These ‘both-and’ aspects of God are clearly seen in the concept of the Triune God. God is both the yin and the yang,” Khiok-khng contends. “The Trinity is incomprehensible and will always remain a mystery. But the term Triune seems to speak of ‘is-ness’: distinctiveness and relatedness. Note that interrelatedness is not only evident among the Trinity, but also obvious between the Trinity and the world … The Chinese method does not assume or assert its superiority, validity or comprehensiveness over traditional or contemporary methodologies of the West or the East. It seeks only to show the translatability of the Christian truth through the employment of the yin yang philosophy.”

He sets out the tenets of yin yang. Cosmology is more important than anthropology because anthropology is part of cosmology. Reality is change rather than being. Reality is relatedness: yin and yang are mutually inclusive. It’s all about reading the Bible culturally and reading the culture biblically. And a universal acknowledgement that, “For those who believe are entering into God’s rest where God’s presence meets them where they are. It is with every step to the mountaintop and down into the valley of darkness that they encounter God, one another, and themselves. Rest is not inactivity, but instead the untiring activity of that constant encounter with the presence of God.”

Yin yang is better known as one of the foundations of Chinese medicine. Tong Ren Tang Chinese pharmaceutical company was founded in 1669 to serve the Qing dynasty. It uses the philosophy of yin yang to diagnose, treat and balance opposing bodily forces. Dr Linda Chan explains, “Nothing in health is totally yin or totally yang. Relative levels of yin yang are continuously changing in the body. Normally this is a harmonious change but when yin or yang are out of balance they affect each other and too much of one can eventually consume and weaken the other.”

On a midweek winter’s morning, yin yang in action is taking place in Ri Tan Park to the east of the Forbidden City. Ri Tan, the Temple of Sun, was built in 1530 which was the 9th year of Jinjing in the Ming dynasty. It is one of five temple sites across the Capital. In the 1950s Ri Tan was classified as a 21 hectare public park, a green heart of the Chaoyang District. Colourful pavilions atop grey rockeries surround miniature lakes. A group of locals are practising Tai Chi Walking. This exercise is to consciously shift weight to maintain balance and internal flow. The full (yang) leg supporting weight is balanced by the empty (yin) leg which is weightless and ready to move. Arms are stretched out to maintain connection with the body’s centre and improve balance while guiding energy flow.

The philosophy even applies to the national drink of jasmine tea. Its warming yang character balances the cooling yin nature of the usual green tea base to improve digestion and create a harmonious spirit.

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Forbidden City Bejing + Lavender’s Blue

You Look Like a Beautiful Shaolin Kung Fu Monk

To start an article with a diction caution is rare but before imprecision and overuse dulled its impact there was iconic. And if anywhere owns that adjective it’s the Forbidden City, the world’s largest collection of ancient timber buildings. There are no fears of syntax slips with the highly audible and highly knowledgeable Mandy Wong, China’s leading travel expert, who’s about to condense several millennia of history into a four hour exclusive private tour.

But before a shallow dive into history, some governmental context. Purposeful sweeping change is no accident under the leadership of President Xi Jinping. While many factors have fuelled China’s economic success, his long term planning and a governance model combining strategic five year development plans with flexible adjustments remain among the key drivers, allowing policymakers to efficiently respond to emerging challenges. Western leaders take heed. Steady transformation is closely linked to the authoritative philosophy of President Xi’s The Governance of China. First published in 2014, the latest iteration is Volume V which has been translated into 40 languages.

The publication is a major theoretical innovation integrating the basic tenets of Marxism with China’s national and cultural needs. Volume V is a compilation of 91 of President Xi’s spoken and written works from 27 May 2022 to 20 December 2024. The President delivered a parliamentary speech on 16 May 2024 on The Promotion of High Quality and Sustainable Tourism. He opened by noting since the launch of reform and opening up of the country in 1978 and especially following the 18th National Congress of 2012, China’s tourism sector has enjoyed burgeoning development.

“We should pursue innovation while leveraging the traditional role of tourism, improve the quality and efficiency of the industry, and integrate its development with that of other sectors,” he stated. “Efforts should be made to improve and modernise the industry and strengthen the sector so that it can raise the quality of life, boost our economy, develop our spiritual home, better present the national image, and facilitate mutual learning among civilisation.” President Xi urged central departments and provincial authorities to strengthen their commitment and dedication to fostering high quality sustainable tourism through intensive collaboration for tangible results.

On 28 October 2024, the President made a parliamentary speech on how to Build China Into a Cultural Powerhouse. “Cultural heritage is a compelling witness to the splendid Chinese civilisation and also a precious treasure bequeathed to us by our ancestors,” he explained. “We should have a profound respect for history and love for our culture. We will undertake the systematic protection of cultural heritage under unified supervision and prioritise protection, sound utilisation, and minimal interference.”

Nowhere embodies that diktat requiring unification of supervision, prioritisation of protection, sound utilisation and minimal interference in relation to a historic asset than the Forbidden City. In 1994 the Chinese Government gave workers a second day off each week and so the weekend began. There are 1.3 billion or so people in the Middle Kingdom and today, Saturday, it feels like they have all descended on the ancient heart of the Capital. “Aubergine”! Chinese people say “qiézi” when posing for a photograph. It’s easy to end up saying enough aubergines to fill a field such is the exchange of capturing captivating beauty. But with 74 hectares and close to 1,000 rooms, there’s space for everyone.

President Xi gave a speech on 17 July 2023 at the National Conference on Eco Environmental Protection as recorded in The Governance of China Volume V, confirming, “The blue skies initiative is a top priority in the battle against pollution.” Yesterday and today and the day after were and are and will be blue skyed. “I don’t like the greyness of London in winter. Beijing is like Spain in January!” says Mandy. Except for the minus degrees temperature.

“There were 24 generations in total of the Ming and Qing Dynasties!” she declares at the entrance to the Outer Courtyard. “This really is the forbidden place. Only royals and staff were allowed to enter: everyone else was kept out. The moat is frozen now but in summertime you will see people boating on it. In 1367 the first King built a Forbidden City in Nanjing but he was scared of losing Mongolia so started building the Beijing Forbidden City in 1406. It was very fast building. The whole place was completed 14 years later in 1420. The following year Beijing became the Capital of the Ming dynasty. 14 Ming 10 Qing!”

Mandy blazes through the Outer Court into the Inner Court. “The Imperial colours are red and yellow. Red is lucky; yellow is supreme power. Green is earth; blue is heaven. Symmetry is so important in Chinese culture. Man and woman. Light and darkness. Even the stone animals. We always like balance. There are no trees in the Outer and Inner Courts to make them super safe. Kung Fu fighters could jump very high or hide behind trees. There are 18 layers of bricks under the paving so no tunnelling. Look! There are baby dragons on the roof.”

“Look!” demands Mandy again. “There are also pixiu on the roof. The pixiu is a powerful Chinese mythical creature resembling a winged lion. This creature is revered in Feng Shui as a potent guardian of wealth. It has a big open mouth and a big belly but no bottom: it eats a lot but there is nowhere for the food to go. That represents money not being wasted. The dragon is man; the phoenix is woman. There are no phoenixes and there were no women in the Outer Court.”

A sign along a stone terrace states: “Usually filled with water, these bronze and iron vats were used to protect the Imperial Palace from fire. Between Xiaoxue (Light Snow) and Jingzhe (Awakening of Insects) in solar terms, the vats were wrapped in cotton cloth and covered with a lid. When necessary, charcoal would also be burnt underneath to prevent the water from freezing. The earliest vat now preserved in the Forbidden City was cast during the Hongzhi reign (1488 to 1505) in the Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644). Ming vats are simple yet elegant, with plain iron rings on the sides and a wider upper body with a tapered base. Qing dynasty (1644 to 1911) vats feature rings held by side knobs with the faces of beasts, a large belly and a smaller mouth. At present there are over 200 bronze and iron vats in the Palace Museum, including 22 gilt bronze vats flanking the Hall of Supreme Harmony (Taihe dian), the Hall of Preserving Harmony (Baohe dian), the Gate of Heavenly Purity (Qianqing men) and the Palace of Heavenly Purity (Qianqing gong).”

She relates, “The Emperor had one official wife and hundreds of concubines. He would take a private tour around Shanghai and south China looking for beautiful versatile young ladies who were talented at calligraphy and music and bring them to live in the Imperial Palace. The East Palace in the Forbidden City was where the concubines all lived.” Beyond the red roofs the 21st century raises its head on the skyline. Citic Tower designed by New York practice Kohn Pederson Fox and London practice Farrells in collaboration with the Beijing Institute of Architectural Design is just over half a kilometre in height making it the tallest building in the Capital. There’s a historic link: its gently curving shape increasing in area to the base and top is based on a zun, an ancient Chinese wine holder.

A sign inside one of the pavilions states: “Hetian jade is the central pillar of Chinese jade culture. It comes from the vast and geologically complex terrain of Xinjiang, where archaeological evidence shows that jade has been used for over 4,000 years. Its earliest known use was in artefacts such as jade axes unearthed at the ancient Loulan site in Ruoqiang County, marking the initial phase of jade culture in the region. After the mid western Han dynasty, jade from Hetian began flowing into central China. It would dominate jade craftmanship for the next 2,000 years. From the 26th year of the Qianlong Emperor’s reign (1761) onward, Hetian jade began entering the Qing court as yearly tributes in both spring and autumn, and became the main source of jade in the Imperial Palace. The production and use of Hetian jade wares made an unparalleled advance, sparking another development boom in Chinese jade culture. The collection of the Palace Museum bears witness to over 5,000 years of Chinese civilisation and stands as a testament to centuries of cultural exchange and integration. In celebration of the Museum’s centennial, this exhibition selects representative pieces of Imperial Hetian jade wares of the Qing dynasty (1644 to 1911) from the Museum’s collection. Divided into five sections – Origins of Jade, Ritual Jade, Elegance of Jade, Ingeniously Crafted Jade, and Jade Ornaments and Dining Wares – the exhibition aims to illustrate the rich jade culture of the Qing dynasty, while highlighting historical interactions, exchanges and integration among China’s diverse ethnic groups, strengthening awareness of their shared national identity.”

“That red door has 81 knobs on it,” observes Mandy. “Nine knobs across by nine knobs down. Nine is for longevity in Chinese culture. Nine by nine is 81 is eight plus one is nine. We like the number eight: it means food fortune; you’re gonna get a lot of money. The number six means your life will flow easily like water.” Beyond the Outer and Inner Courts lies a tranquil garden. “This is an outdoor museum not a park,” she corrects. “That’s a young boy talking to a bird using bird noises. It’s a Red Flanked Bluetail – that’s a lucky bird. That brings luck! This is a very special occasion. You’re very lucky!”

Chinese cultural official and scholar Xheng Xinmiao served as the Director of the Palace Museum (as the Forbidden City is now formally called) from 2003 to 2012, shaping the preservation and display of the architecture and collection for future generations. In 2005 he said, “The collection of the Palace Museum primarily consisting of artefacts from the Qing Imperial Palace is both a historical testament to the ancient civilisation of China and a shared treasure of humanity. From 1945 to February 2005, a total of 682 donors contributed more than 33,400 items from their personal collections to the Palace Museum. Their generosity reflects their deep love for this land and exemplifies the noble virtue of serving the public. Among these donations are national treasures that have significantly enriched the Palace Museum’s collection, making its range of artefacts more systematic and complete. On the occasion of the Palace Museum’s 80th anniversary, the Jingren (Great Benevolence) Honour Roll of Donors was established in the Palace of Great Benevolence (Jingren gong) to engrave the names of these donors to display their finest contributions, highlighting their deeds and promoting their spirit. May this tradition of generosity endure as a profound blessing for the Chinese nation.”

On 19 January 2026 seven Chinese Government Departments including the Ministry of Culture and Tourism released a national plan to systematically promote the country’s cultural and linguistic heritage, setting clear targets for 2030 and 2035. Local governments, schools and institutions are encouraged to incorporate language and cultural development into regional planning, urban management and campus activities. Universities are urged to offer public cultural courses such as in Chinese calligraphy. The exquisite hand painted signs over the entrances to the buildings in the iconic Forbidden City are the ultimate symbol of China’s cultural and linguistic heritage.

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Waldorf Astoria Hotel Beijing + Zijin Mansion Restaurant Beijing

The Short Now

It’s only 11.30 in the morning and already the restaurant is filling up with the bold and the beautiful, some solo, some plural. We’re in good company. The omnipresent winter sun is flowing into the second floor dining room through louvred windows, simultaneously highlighting and shadowing the beautiful interior like a giant weathervane. In the bowed corners of the quatrefoil shaped space quatrefoil shaped chains hang in front of hand painted silk depicting colourful birds.

In Chinese culture the quatrefoil shape or persimmon stem, symbolises good luck, fortune, prosperity and harmony – like so many things do! Quatrefoils appear again on the deep pile carpet and on the ceiling of the double height foyer directly below. We’re lunching in Zijin Mansion, the Michelin star restaurant in the epic Waldorf Astoria Beijing, beneficiaries of good luck, fortune, prosperity and harmony.

Chef James Wang is celebrating a decade of working up a storm in the hotel. He explains, “Inspired by traditional Cantonese cooking techniques and concepts, Zijin Mansion selects seasonal ingredients and combines them with local dietary culture, presenting traditional and authentic exquisite Cantonese delicacies for diners.” Signature dishes which we will enjoy include Zijin Metropolitan, a rich soup with South African dried abalone and fish maw. It’s the very essence of Hakka flavours.

Feeling dry curious we have a glass of Pinot Noir Sparkling Grape Juice. And then a couple of dozen courses. Yes! Lit to the left: old masters, new mistresses. Appetisers such as Marinated Abalone with Mushroom XO Sauce. Main courses include Panfried Boston Lobster with Basil, Onion and Scallions. Puddings include Double Boiled Coconut Milk with Chocolate Bird’s Nest. We’re eating the menu. All of it. The Chef knows all about delivering refined simplicity while highlighting a respect for the ingredients. Haute cuisine of China on a plate. Or rather a lot of plates, bowls and stands. We’re getting it.

Our bill per head arrives. Amuse bouche 0 RMB. Amuse Bouche 0 RMB. Sparkling Water 136 RMB. Pinot Noir Sparkling Grape Juice 196 RMB Michelin Set Menu 988 RMB. Subtotal 1,320 RMB. Service charge 15 percent. Total 1,518 RMB. That’s roughly £160 per person for a world class leisurely three hour meal so while not exactly bargain basement it does connect to that old Chinese saying, “Cheap things are not good; good things are not cheap.”

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Waldorf Astoria Hotel Beijing + Suite 918

Far Beyond the Banks of the Yellow River and If It Were Not So

Chinese script raises writing to an art form. Chicagoans Adrian Smith and Gordon Gill Architecture’s bronze façade superframe elevates elevation to sculpture. Its eye catching appearance instantly catapulted the Waldorf Astoria to the top of Beijing’s galaxy of five star hotels upon opening in 2014. The architecture never looks better than when all aglow at sunrise and sunset in winter. A shining beacon. Nine bedroom floors have rows of full height rectangular bay windows set into a grid. The bay windows are not uniformly placed but rather are tuned to differing angles and orientations to maximise outlook and natural light penetration. Gordon calls this concept a “compound eye”.

Grey granite as a background material recalls the charcoal bricks of historic hutongs and creates a strong backdrop to the superframe. Standalone corner fins are an elegant solution to housing utilities. The bronze will change colour as it ages – a fitting metaphor for the ever evolving city and its constant flow of frenetic stimuli. The first three levels of the hotel are visually treated as one super plinth: full height louvred glazed panels are uniformly divided by the vertical components of the superframe. This is literally transparent architecture. The Hutong Courtyard behind the 12 storey 170 bedroom main block was designed by Ma Bingjian, the Director of the Beijing Ancient Architecture Design Institute. Inspired by Ming architecture, it provides more luxurious accommodation.

Michael Krauze, Director of Operations at the Waldorf Astoria Beijing, welcomes guests: “We offer a sanctuary just steps from the Forbidden City where Beijing’s superior heritage meets Waldorf’s legendary elegance. Every space is a journey that blends the ancient soul of the Capital with contemporary sophistication. A sincere and elegant service is deeply rooted in the cultural fabric of the city. Our interiors designed by Yabu Pushelburg balance bold contrast with timeless tradition. Every detail reflects exquisite craftmanship creating an atmosphere of refinement. This philosophy extends into every element of our service from checkin to the care of personal concierges, we’re always ensuring every detail is seamlessly arranged.”

Anyhoo, that’s the formalities over. What’s that blast of Channel V music coming from corner Suite 918 on the ninth floor? High above St Joseph’s Church and The Gundam Base on Wangfujing Avenue and Beijing Yintai Jixiang Office Building on Ganju Hutong and Peet’s Coffee in the Macau Centre there’s a non stop party taking place. Lobby, makeup room, drawing room, bedroom, lobby, Aesop goodies filled marble bathroom … it’s like living in a multi compartmented silk and lacquered cabinet. There’s the temptation lurking to never leave best in class Suite 918. By day five bay windows frame the city; by night five bay windows frame the party. The viewer becomes the viewed.

Who needs to venture out to an art gallery when you’re staying in the Waldorf? One of the many strikingly original important artworks hangs in the ground floor Long Gallery – an interior boulevard of desire. A sign next to Abandoning the Precision of Shape by Liu Xiaodong states, “A stunningly evocative oil on canvas painting of the Forbidden City, evoking a timeless dimension where the viewer of the piece is requested to think about the image’s common sentiment in our memory and to question the way we view the outside world.” The artist emerged as a leading figure in 1990s Chinese Neo Realism and has continued to successfully tread the line between figurative and conceptual art ever since.

The Palace Servant by Ling Jian is a powerful showstopper at the end of the Long Gallery. An oil and acrylic painting of an outsized androgynous face has piercing eyes and wedding dress red lips pursed ready to speak and more. In Peacock Alley – a lounge named after the walkway between the original Waldorf and Astoria Hotels – Scattered Aesthetic and Concrete Depth by Chi Peng is a mixed media abstract combining craft and art telling the history of painting on materials other than canvas. An ink on ice paper artwork hangs in the entrance foyer: the two twin teacups and saucers of Shao Fan’s Integrated with the Universe speak of the Taoist concept of being integrated with this world. In a first floor lobby, a cluster of vitrines display Waling Artist in the Wild by Yang Maoyuan. Using classical marble busts as prototypes, he rounds off features and polishes the edges of heads in a conversation about the Chinese philosophy of beauty and harmony.

An absolutely flawless effortless seamless peerless airport to car to suite journey is partly to blame for us not ever wanting to leave. Suave concierges in black and tan uniform rush to open car doors, entrance foyer doors, lift doors, suite doors and later come laden with cake and fruit and bear buddies to welcome in the night. Sunrise, sunset, swiftly fly the hours, seedlings turn overnight to sunflowers, blossoming even as they gaze.

Leave the suite leave the suite leave the suite. Ok, but only for breakfasting downstairs in Brasserie 1893. A Bear Buddy’s Breakfast Menu on our table lists Golden Toast Boats (buttered toast served with maple syrup and berry cream), Crispy Fried Double Layer Milk Roll (served with chocolate sauce, shredded coconut and roasted pistachio) and Dragon Onion Rings. Tempting but nothing beats Tofu Pudding (yellow fungus and egg sauce, spring onion, chilli oil) and Fried Dough Sticks with Soy Milk. That, plus hawthorn strip and snow leopard melon cubes. Red Velvet Croissant (looks like it’s wrapped in streaky bacon outside; burst with cream inside), celery and grapefruit juice, and coffee with sugar crystals of course round off the morning’s sojourn. Sino French cuisine at its finest. This is our winter of content.

Zijin Mansion is the Michelin starred restaurant in our hotel but that’s another story on another storey.

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The Peninsula Hotel + Jing Restaurant Beijing

Peking Pie

“Jing” has multiple Mandarin meanings including peacefulness, reverence and essence. And as it turns out, marvellous restaurant. Welcome to The Peninsula Hotel where no man is an island.

It’s a bit like eating in a super posh Westfield if you’re a Londoner or Macy’s for New Yorkers. The lower and much lower ground floors of The Peninsula form one of Wangfujing District’s finest luxury shopping malls for well dressed interiors and citizens. Basement Level I: Arc ‘Teryx, Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Jenny Packham, Louis Vuitton, M L Luxia, Minotti by Domus Tiandi, The Peninsula Boutique and Zilli.  Basement Level II: Baxter, Domus Tianti, Giorgetti, Henge, Living Divani, Oluce, Onno, Poliform, Promemoria and Salvatori. Jing Restaurant is on Basement Level I. Its little sister Huang Ting Brasserie is on Basement Level II.

We’re celebrating life in a rather literal way having dodged the ubiquitous duvet clad mopeds which swerve and keep going rather than stop at pedestrian crossings. All those inflight Baduanjin exercises on China Southern Airlines possibly made us more supple at dodging oncoming traffic. At this rate we’ll be up for some postprandial synchronised dancing later in Ri Tan Park. Front of house, or rather front of retail unit, beckons us to the bar. A card awaits: “Dear guest, welcome to Jing. Before starting a gastronomic journey we invite you to enjoy one glass of apéritif at the bar. Bon appetit! Jing team.” The apéritif is a Kalimotxo which originates from Basque Country and is a combination of red wine and cola. A bottle of Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups, Montlouis Sur Loire Remus, 2023, swiftly follows.

Hand painted wallpaper and gigantic circular semi transparent silk embroidered screens cocoon guests in luxurious surrounds. French born Chef de Cuisine William Mahi is redefining modern French cuisine with Basque and Asian creativity. Mang-mang sik! He teases out the essence of food sourced from the China Sea, Chongqing farms, Sichuan Lakes and Yunnan Mountains with precision, sincerity, refinement, purity and harmony. We get around so what are our cornerstones of a beautiful meal? Easy. Hervé This defines three out of four of them in Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavour, 2002. All non calorific.

Champagne: “When we hear the unmistakeable sound of the cork popping off a bottle of Champagne, we stop talking and look closely at what happens as it is poured into our glass. If the foam subsides slowly, if the frill of bubbles is delicate and persistent, and if the liquid is effervescent, the wine is considered to be of good quality.”

Truffle: “The black diamond! An immense amount of ink has been spilled in singing its praises. No food writer fails to mention its appearance on a menu, and no chef neglects to feature it when he aims for stars. In Europe there are 10 sorts of truffles, which is to say mushrooms of the Tuber genus. The black truffle, also called a Périgord truffle, is harvested principally in Spain, France, and Italy, but its gastronomic qualities vary from region to region.”

Foam: “Low in fat because they are essentially made of air – foams came to prominence with the rise of Nouvelle Cuisine in France in the 1960s and then gained broader popularity as a consequence of the growing interest in lighter foods on both sides of the Atlantic. Today, with the advent of molecular gastronomy … they are very fashionable among gourmets.”

Caviar.

Dom Pérignon. Champagne, tick. A waiter appears with a bread trolley and gives a performance of firmly slicing the freshly baked offering while pointing out the yeast jar on display. The staff to client ratio is high although it is a random Wednesday lunchtime. Piped easy listening jazz contrasts with the formality of service. Sweet pea tarte amuse bouche. The Brie Truffle (Normandy Brie D’Isgny, Yunnan black truffle, pear). The black stuff, tick. Spider Crab Tart (spider crab, shiso, sea urchin, basil oil, oxalis flower, citrus confit, crab foam, horseradish, dill flower). “The crab consommé has been simmered for 24 hours,” the waiter explains. Foam, phew. Scallop Blanc de Noir (pan seared scallop, brown butter, pear). Ya’an caviar and chive salmon tartar amuse bouche deliver the fourth cornerstone of a beautiful meal.

The dining space as subterranean capsule. Underworldliness. A sanctuary of taste. Who needs windows when you’ve priceless contemporary art to admire? Chi! Chi! Chi! Such is the importance of food that while Europeans count heads per population, Chinese count mouths. Spinning plates: Maître d’ Oliver Huang and his waiting staff are as deft and elegant as ballet dancers, effortlessly weaving round the tables with extravagance of grace and posture in a timeless duration of curation for this is not mere service.

Edible flowers are scattered over one course. Ah! Could this be our fifth cornerstone of a beautiful meal? Fig walnut toast with brie truffle mascarpone followed by a glass of Americano egg foam tick two of our current cornerstones once more. Peartree and cinnamon clove ginger tea is the ultimate palate cleanser. The waiter dons white magician’s gloves for handling the silverware – a drawer full of cutlery appears and disappears throughout the meal. The stiffly starched linen tablecloth covering the round table as big as the silk screens is regularly hand vacuumed. Steaming hot hand towels keep our hands clean.

Protein forward Chinese truffles come from the foothills of the Himalayas where they are harvested at an altitude of about 2,000 metres. The main production areas are Yongren County in Yunnan Province and Panzhihua in Sichuan Province in very southwest China. They are planted at least a dozen centimetres below ground. The Chinese truffles have a bumpy dark brown surface covered in low scales displaying an inverted pyramid form with a square base similar to the Périgord truffle. Lunch in Jing is all about gourmet satisfying fashionable molecular gastronomy.

Oh and for good measure, “Bei” like “Jing” also has multiple Mandarin meanings including preciousness, treasure and north. Jing relishes in preciousness of cuisine in an artistic treasure trove north (east) of Tian’anmen Square. Nothing too tenuous there.

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Lavender’s Blue + Beijing

Like You Never Went Away 

You’re everywhere. Empirically attractive, imperially gorgeous. Positively pulsating with pulchritude. And as for this current megalopolis: it’s the acme of urban aspiration and cultural inspiration. Amongst the jade and jardines and jacquard silks; amidst the mist shawled vales and curlicued dragons and parasol clutching mandarins; centrist centring on the premier international consumption hub to the east of the world’s longest central axis, we’re doing our germane best for Sino Anglo Irish relations. Recalling the sinistral Ming and Qing dynasties; admiring the syncretic Xi Jinping era. Our very own white lotus revolutionary revelation has begun. Focusing on the glimmers. Hypnogogic mesmerisation; pedagogic realisation. We’ll always remember you dancing under city lights.

In years to come, looking back over Lavender’s Blue, reflecting on its modest commission to simply brighten the reader’s day, this record of a midwinter’s visit to Beijing – pics and prose capturing the paradigm of a paradisal time – will surely be seen to have delivered that meek mission. Although the ending of Marcel Proust’s 1913 The Way by Swann’s does caution, “The places we have known do not belong solely to the world of space in which we situate them for our greater convenience. They were only a thin slice of contiguous impressions that formed our life at that time; the memory of a certain image is only regret for a certain time; and houses, roads, avenues are as fleeting, alas, as the years.”

Wherever there’s the high life there’s Lavender’s Blue. Especially on days ending with a Y. Perhaps it really is then an infrangible storehouse of exquisite epiphanies with a strong dose of chimerical aestheticism. A finely hewn form of winsome writing and formidable photography. Savour each missive from our Champagne fuelled truffle laden foam light caviar heavy production line of epigrams and epiphanic imagery. Dithyrambic ramblings are us. Think Felicità. Like very fine wine, Lavender’s Blue is an acquired taste. But – health warning – those who remain intellectually alert enough to sup at this fountain will end up addicted. We’re talking opium level.

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Architecture Art People

Ming Wong + The National Gallery Trafalgar Square London

Gallery as Mirror

The Director of The National Gallery, Sir Gabriele Finaldi, introduces the 2025 Artist in Residence Ming Wong. It’s the screening of Ming’s 20 minute film Dance of the Sun on the Water (Saltatio Solis in Aqua) in the underground Pigott Theatre below the bustle of Trafalgar Square. Sir Gabriele states, “The Artist in Residence programme has been running here since the 1980s. It’s amazing to think it’s over a generation old and the number of artists who have come through The National Gallery and sort of lived with us and then produced an exhibition. I think back to Paula Rego, Maggie Hambling, Peter Blake, George Shaw and in its most recent iteration I think of Rosalind Nashashibi, Ali Cherri, Céline Condorelli and Katrina Palmer. We’re very pleased to welcome Ming to this roll call of distinguished artists.”

He continues, “We’re very proud that The National Gallery has a practising artist’s studio in it. You may think of The National Gallery as a museum of old art but in fact since its beginnings it’s had a particular concern to be open and welcoming to the creative activity of contemporary artists. That’s the studio that Ming has been working in – it’s a sign of our commitment to continuing the tradition of an artist coming to experience The Gallery, to experience The Gallery as a colleague, and to turn that into an artistic response of their own. That’s what we’re seeing Ming do at the moment. He’s decided to respond to the rather amazing group of paintings of St Sebastian. The Artist in Residence’s response is always very personal and that’s what makes this significant and distinctive. It’s also offers a prism for the public to look at the Collection in a different way.”

Priyesh Mistry, Associate Curator of Modern and Contemporary Projects at The National Gallery, confirms that the 55 year old Singaporean artist Ming has produced an incredibly involved outstanding project presenting St Sebastian for a contemporary audience. Ming worked for 10 years in London after completing his Masters in Fine Art at Slade School of Art before moving to Berlin, explains Priyesh. The artist drew on experiences of his formative years in London. Ming Wong arrives in The Gallery as St Sebastian, arrows piercing his tweed jacket. The full meaning of the artist as art will soon be revealed.

Ming shares his thoughts on being appointed Artist in Residence: “First of all a feeling of puzzlement – why me? And then very quickly when you accept this residency you know that the screws are tightened. That was followed by a period of awe and fear which was assuaged very quickly when I met the team that we have here at The National Gallery. It’s such a privilege when I’m being taken around by each and every curator who showed me their ‘babies’ in the Collection, meeting heads of departments, getting to know how things function in this institution. That was a marvellous opportunity. It took me almost eight months before the idea landed of what I wanted to do.” Coinciding with the end of The Gallery’s bicentennial celebrations, Ming wanted to acknowledge the scope of history and time across centuries and geographies.

During his research he was surprised to come across St Sebastian reappearing in so many different guises down the ages. “I learnt more about his martyrdom and what he represented to people over the centuries,” Ming says. “As a protector against the Black Death, as patron saint of athletes, archers, policemen … It wasn’t until I decided to rewatch the 1976 film Sebastiane by Derek Jarman that things started to click. I work a lot with the history of cinema. In a way I am copying the Masters only in my case I tell stories with moving images. These clues all came together. It was late in the day when I had the idea and then we had to get into production almost straight away because I knew we had an opening in January!”

That chequerboard sun dappled staircase rising above the Pigott Theatre past carved stone letters leading onwards and upwards, ever ascending, to The Sainsbury Wing and Gallery 10. Ming’s artwork sits in the middle of the spaces hung with paintings of St Sebastian. He shares how his idea for “medieval televisions” transmitting Dance of the Sun on the Water (Saltatio Solis in Aqua) was inspired by the narrative pictures in predellas of medieval altarpieces. The use of Latin dialogue with Latin and English captions was inspired by Sebastiane. He chose a cast of Asian or part Asian actors, mostly British, who along with the artist play the role of Roman soldiers as well as taking it in turns to be St Sebastian.

Back to the artist’s pierced tweed jacket. Spoiler alert: Ming Wong’s message is we are all visitor and apparition. Destroyer and martyr. History is us. We are Roman soldiers. We are St Sebastian.

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Architecture Country Houses People

The Lindesays + Loughry Manor Cookstown Tyrone

Ladies First

Hansard, the Government record of the Houses of Parliament, logged on 25 April 1907 a question raised by Thomas Kettle, MP for Tyrone East, “To ask the Chief Secretary to the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland when, and in what manner, the land and buildings known as Loughry Manor, situated near Cookstown, County Tyrone, were acquired by the Department of Agriculture and Technical Instruction; and what use, if any, has been made of them since they were acquired?”

The response from Augustine Birrell was, “The Department of Agriculture received possession of Loughry Manor in the summer of last year, having acquired it by purchase in the superior courts. The property was acquired for the purpose of establishing a school of rural domestic economy for girls in the north of Ireland. The work of adapting the house to the required purpose is now about to be carried out. It was not possible to undertake this work at an earlier date, but it is hoped that the school will be ready to receive pupils next winter.”

An initial visit to Loughry in 1969 stimulated Nicholas Lindesay’s interest and he has researched his family history and connection to County Tyrone ever since. “The Lindesays originated from Leith, Scotland, and like the Stewarts of Killymoon Castle they were a Plantation family,” Nicholas explains. “My great grandfather times seven, Robert Lindesay, was the first to take advantage of the grant from James I in 1610, settling first on the hilltop at Tullahogue. The second Robert built Loughry, which means King’s Gift, in 1632. Ownership of Loughry passed out of the family on 1 February 1895. In some ways it was lucky that it became the Ulster Dairy School and later taken over by the Department of Agriculture, Environment and Rural Affairs because the estate remained as one.”

The original Loughry Manor was destroyed in the 1641 Rebellion and a replacement house not commenced until three decades later. A second house was completed in 1674 just after Robert’s death and continued to be the Lindesay residence until it was accidentally burnt down circa 1750. The handsome five bay two storey steep double pitched stuccoed main block of the current Loughry Manor is the third Lindesay house on this site. The Tuscan porch, decorative mouldings, two pane sash windows, and wings would follow. The mid 19th century owner Fritz Lindesay lived a little too well and by his death in 1877 had amassed debts in excess of £42,000. His successor Joshua lived frugally and vacated Loughry for Rock Lodge, a smaller property to the south of the estate.

Joshua died in 1893, leaving the family’s financial issues unresolved, and the entailed estate was sold by Lieutenant Colonel Henry Richard Ponsonby Lindesay of Devon to local businessman John Wilson Fleming, the last private owner. A long two storey Arts and Crafts style wing terminating in a square three storey tower was added by the Ulster Dairy School in 1906. Then in 1949 it became Loughry Agricultural College for female students. It took another 13 years before male students were admitted. Standalone educational buildings were built from the 1960s onwards but the 80 hectare parkland setting can still be appreciated.

Nicholas Lindesay confirms that turn of the 18th century owner Robert Lindesay wrote, “There is an old summerhouse at Loughry, a square turret surrounded by ivy and built upon a cliff impending a beautiful meandering river full of rugged rocks even which its waters rush with impetuosity and grandeur, particularly after rain, and on the opposite side a wooded bank rises abruptly to a considerable height, presenting to the eye a variety of majestic timber and environmental trees of oak, beech, elm, fir and ash… this square turret consists of one single room and a wine cellar hewn out of the limestone rock below, with two massive oak doors eacj about a foot and a half wide on which are affixed tremendous hinges, locks and keys.”

Robert was the fourth of the 10 Lindesay owners of Loughry. He was MP for County Tyrone, a Judge of the Common Pleas and a friend of Jonathan Swift who was Dean of St Patrick’s Cathedral Dublin and author of Gulliver’s Travels. Nicholas notes, “The Dean was a frequent visitor to Loughry and it is said that he wrote many of his books and poems in the peace and tranquillity of the summerhouse accompanied by his friend Robert Lindesay who also possessed literary talent.” Loughry Manor and Dean Swift’s summerhouse are still intact but currently unused. A faded sign on the ground floor of the return wing “Swifts Bar” (missing an apostrophe and clientele) hints at happier times.

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Architects Architecture Country Houses People

Parkanaur Castlecaulfield Tyrone + Thomas Duff

Tudor Revival Survival

Forest parks on Irish demesnes often have a vital missing component: the country house. All too many were mindlessly demolished in the mid 20th century. Pomeroy House and Seskinore House both in County Tyrone are sadly typical examples. In those two cases all that remain are the stables and a footprint of the house just about legible from an aerial view. Parkanaur is a remarkable exception: the entire house with its rambling wings and outbuildings is intact and in use. Just to add to the country estate feel, white fallow deer descended from a pair gifted by Queen Elizabeth I in 1597 to her niece at Mallow Castle in County Cork roam an enclosure overlooked by the house.

In 1771, an Anglo Irish gentleman Ynyr Burges bought the Parkanaur Estate from the Caulfield family. John Henry Burges, a cousin of John Henry’s daughter Lady Poulet, leased the estate and built a triple gabled hunting lodge about 1804. The entrance door was to the left of the present one. A south wing was added in 1821 when the house became the family seat. John Henry’s son John Yner received an inheritance from Lady Poulet in 1838 enabling him to buy the freehold of the estate the following year.

John Yner commissioned the architect Thomas Duff to design a large extension which was completed at a cost of £3,000 in 1848. The original house has windows with mullions and Georgian astragals; the later addition has mullioned windows with leaded lights. The two principal fronts, at a perpendicular angle to one another, back onto courtyards surrounded by substantial outbuildings included a coach house and tower. The rear elevation of the largest courtyard building with its Georgian sash windows is three storeyed due to the sloping land.

The completed Parkanaur is a handsome Tudor Revival house. Thomas Duff was a serious architect. His oeuvre includes the Catholic Cathedrals of St Patrick’s Armagh, St Patrick’s Dundalk and St Patrick and St Colman’s Newry. Narrow Water Castle outside Newry, equally belonging to the revivification of the Tudor Style, is also by his hand. He partnered for a short time with the equally talented Belfast architect Thomas Jackson. The Newry based architect is credited with designing the first Presbyterian portico in Ulster at Fisherwick Place Church in Belfast.

As a Catholic, Thomas Duff was an unusual choice for Protestant commissions and clients. John Yner and his wife Lady Caroline also made improvements to the demesne, planting thousands of trees each year. The Burges enjoyed a sociable lifestyle revolving around entertaining and visiting other Anglo Irish families. Castle Leslie in County Monaghan, Glenarm Castle in County Antrim and Killymoon Castle in County Tyrone – neighbours in aristocratic terms – were all on their social circuit.

The 1830s were halcyon years for the Burges family. But the following decade, three of their four sons died leaving just two daughters. Lady Caroline sold the carriage horses to fund charitable efforts after the Great Famine struck in 1845. Her husband recorded, “My lady instituted a kitchen with every apparatus and convenience for feeding the labourers, all of whom were fed daily … they got the best beef, potatoes and pudding which sustained them while many were starving … with all this I could not keep my people and no less than 300 went off to America having disposed of their land to try their fortune in a strange country.”

The Burges were benevolent landlords. Lady Caroline’s brother, William Clements 3rd Earl of Leitrim, was not: he was murdered for his callousness in 1878. During World War II, Parkanaur was used as a base for the Western Command, housing 50 military personnel. In 1955, the Burges family sold the house and 25 hectares for £12,000 to Reverend Gerry and Mary Eakin. Their son Stanley had difficulty walking and would later use a wheelchair. The Eakins decided to set up an occupational training college in the house to support disabled students. Parkanaur now celebrates seven decades of educational use and residential care supporting a wide range of needs. It is currently occupied by the Thomas Doran Parkanaur Trust. The demesne continues to be a much loved forest park.

St Michael’s Church of Ireland Church Castlcaulfield is two kilometres from Parkanaur as the falcon files. At the summit of the sloping cemetery stands a Tuscan temple with a gloriously oversized pediment all faced in buff pink (long greyed) Dungannon sandstone. It is the Burges burial vault. There are two tombstones unmissably close to the church entrance porch. One marks the burial place of Frederica Florence Elizabeth (1873 to 1957) Burges of Quintin Castle, Portaferry, County Down (it’s now a nursing home). She was the widow of Ynyr Richard Patrick Burges who was buried in Lawrenny, Pembrokeshire, in 1905. Her tombstone is also over the grave of their daughter Margaret Elizabeth (1908 to 1958). Next to Frederica’s tombstone is the resting place of Major Ynyr Alfred Burges’ (1900 to 1983). The last of the Burges family to own Parkanaur, he was High Sheriff of Counties Armagh and Tyrone. His wife Christine (1908 to 1982) shares the same burial plot.

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Architects Architecture Country Houses Design Developers People Town Houses

Charlton House Charlton London +

Red Not Dead

The mid 20th century County Down housebuilder Joseph Gribben always advocated building in brick, especially the rustic textured variety, and recommended constructing tall chimneys that would allow smoke to blow above the roof ridge. He would appreciate Charlton in south London. High on a hill, the principal buildings circling the summit are all red brick and there are plenty of tall chimneys. Bridget Cherry and Nicholas Pevsner record in their Guide to South London Buildings (1983), “The old centre of the meeting of Charlton Road and Charlton Church Lane is small, and still has some village character, although it is surrounded by later 19th century and 20th century housing on all sides. Apart from the 17th century Church of St Luke, and Charlton House and its outbuildings, no buildings visibly of before the 19th century remain in the village centre although the attractively stuccoed Bugle Horn Inn is of late 17th century origin.”

Ah Charlton House, a miraculous half a millennium survival. It’s even still positioned in a parkland setting. Bridget and Nicholas describe its origins: “Built by Sir Adam Newton, tutor to Henry Prince of Wales, circa 1607 to 1612. Later owners were Sir William Ducie, who made repairs in 1659, Sir William Langhorne, East India merchant, after 1680, and in the 19th century the Maryon-Wilson family, for whom Norman Shaw restored the house and made minor additions in 1877 to 1878. Acquired by the Borough in 1925. Charlton House is the only Jacobean mansion of the first order remaining in the precincts of London. The plan is E shaped with four symmetrical bay windows at the ends of the four wings and two towers in the centres of the two wings, framing the building when seen from the west of east. The building is of three storeys above capacious cellars, built of red brick with pierced open tracery. The towers have ogee roofs. It is of plain and angular, spacious but not at all luxurious, with the exception of the west frontispiece, that is, the door surround and the bay window above which suddenly breaks out into the most exuberant and undisciplined ornament – the work of a mason probably who possessed a copy of Wendel Dietterlin’s Architectura of 1593 and a rare case of close imitation.”

And then the writing duo go inside, “The most remarkable feature of the interior is the position of the Hall, just as revolutionary (though not unique in Jacobean architecture) as Inigo Jones’s at the Queen’s House. it is two storeyed, placed at right angles to the front and back, and runs right across the building. Above it on the second floor in the Saloon reached by an elaborately carved staircase, quadrangular with a square open well and the flights of stairs supported by posts which between ground floor and first floor form palm branches in cases. The sloping pilaster balusters progress through the three orders from ground floor to top landing. The plasterwork is Victorian. The saloon has an original plaster ceiling with pendants and a marble fireplace with restrained architectural ornament to the overmantel above finely carved figures of Venus and Vulcan. This is very much in the manner of Nicholas Stone. In the bay window is circa 17th century heraldic glass with the Ducie arms. on the same floor the north wing is taken up entirely by the long gallery, also with a good plaster ceiling. The original panelling has gone except for pilasters by the windows. In these, more heraldic glass with the Ducie arms. The gallery is reached from the saloon by the white drawing room whose stone fireplace with two tiers of caryatids, three dimensional strapwork, and relief scenes makes the marble one in the saloon appear very classical.”

Finally, back to the great outdoors again, “Of outbuildings the stable to the south are contemporaneous with the house, now arranged on two sides of a quadrangle. Remanagements [sic] under Sir William Langhorne are easily discernible. In front of the entrance on the lawn a solitary gateway, plastered, with Corinthian columns and an 18th century cresting. To the northwest of the house, a handsome summerhouse of circa 1630, brick, square, with Tuscan pilasters, and a concave roof. There is no documentary confirmation of the traditional attribution to Inigo Jones, but the complete absence of Jacobean frills at evidently such an early date makes it quite justifiable. Nicholas Stone would also be a possibility.” The ski slope roofed Grade I summerhouse or lodge, a pepper pot pavilion, is now a public convenience (or rather inconvenience – it’s shut).

Armed with the wealth of knowledge Pevsner Guides are so adept at summarising, a decade ago Aimée Felton, Associate at leading architectural conservation practice Donald Insall Associates, led an Irish Georgian Society tour of Charlton House. Here are the highlights. Over to Aimee, “The lodge is widely attributed to Inigo Jones. Of course it is – he did most of Greenwich! Someone once attributed the lodge to him and it stuck.” She is undertaking a conditions survey as part of a long term masterplan of the house and estate. “A variety of historic fabric is remaining. Some in my opinion was later heavily edited by the various occupants. And heavily rebuilt following bomb damage.” This is most obvious in the north wing where the original imperial red brick and whitish grey stone have been patched up with metric red brick and yellow stone. These mid 20th century repairs included placing the sundial upside down.

“It’s the best Jacobean house in London and is of pivotal importance to its era,” Aimée declares. “It displays a full modern appreciation of flow and sequence of rooms. An H plan was so innovative. There are lots of Jacobean Houses of E plan and E without a tail, but not so many H. Charlton is first in its class: to walk in through the front door and see its garden beyond. The axis though the building is what makes it so special. The Kitchen was always on the north side of Jacobean houses to cool dairy produce and meat, with bedrooms above as heat rises. But this house is laid out to take in the views to the north towards the river and to the west to the King in Greenwich. This is a really bold statement and the only Jacobean house with a north facing gallery.”

The first floor Long Gallery stretches the full length of the north elevation. Like much of the house, the Long Gallery is an architectural puzzle. Aimée highlights, “The floor and ceiling are original but the panelling isn’t. Charlton has some of the best fireplaces of the Jacobean era. The Long Gallery marble and slate one is odd but exquisite.” No architect is recorded. “There is incredibly scarce information both on the Jacobean era and Charlton. You’ll notice I say ‘attributed to’ and ‘we suspect that …’ a lot!” At least there’s a keystone dated 1607 on the main block and one dated 1877 on the wing and the staircase is engraved 1612.

Sir Spencer Maryon-Wilson sold the house to Greenwich Council and auctioned the contents in 1920. The house has been used ever since by various community bodies. A public library is now in the former ground floor Dining Room and Chapel and a café occupies the Hall. Donald Insall Associates are tasked with applying a holistic approach to its fabric and future use or uses. Furnishing rooms in the original period like a National Trust house is not an option. “There simply isn’t enough Jacobean furniture,” she says. “Even the V and A wouldn’t have enough and any pieces it has are so special they’re kept in glass cases.”

There’s plenty of pictorial evidence of how the rooms were furnished in the latter Maryon-Wilson years. Aimée smiles, “If you can’t find a decent photo of a country house look in Country Life because someone is always bragging about their home!” Charlton House is no exception. Monochromatic images of the early 1900s show the interior chockablock with traditional brown furniture and taxidermy and tapestries. This eclecticism is reflected in later plasterwork. She points out the ceiling in the Prince Henry Room which isn’t original. “The cornice is beyond wrong! As offensive as the ceiling is, it’s a nice ceiling, but one that’s just not for this house. Just because it’s not right though doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be preserved to show history. Everyone has their oddities and we just move on.” Much more in keeping with the original architecture is the 1877 extension to the south, now a wedding venue. Unsurprising as Bridget and Nicholas record it was designed by that great historically aware Arts and Crafts architect Norman Shaw. Aimée sums up the extension as, “Jacobean with a Shaw twist.”

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Architects Architecture Country Houses Design People

Francis Johnston + Townley Hall Tullyallen Louth

Thrill of the Chaste

An immaculate concept, a gorgeous late Georgian flowering. Townley Hall deep in the Boyne Valley came about in the closing years of the 18th century. Its architect Francis Johnston designed Rokeby Hall, 17 kilometres north of Townley Hall, a decade earlier in 1786. The former is a smaller version of the latter. Both are of a spare patrician architecture so appealing to the modern eye. Plain planes. Townley is an achingly svelte seven bay by seven bay 27.5 metre square block.

The architect conceals and reveals scale and massing as the viewer moves round the outside. This is a four storey house masquerading on three sides as a two storey building. Attic dormers lurk behind a solid parapet in a similar arrangement to the contemporaneous Castle Coole, County Fermanagh, except there the dormers peep through balustraded gaps in the parapet. Townley is Castle Coole taken to next level Grecian severity in a case of keeping up with the Lowry-Corrys. Francis’ brother Richard was the original architect for Castle Coole: he was replaced by the celebrity architect James Wyatt. There is another Fermanagh link: the client Blayney Townley Balfour married Lady Florence Cole in 1794. She was from Florence Court, a neighbouring estate of James Wyatt’s masterpiece.

Townley Hall is an essay in structural rationalism, a formal stone box grounded by rolling countryside. Recent semiformal planting softens the grey to green juxtaposition. Unencumbered by unnecessary architectural frippery, Francis employs taut lines. He let’s go – just a little – with the kitchen wing. A collection of curves carefully enriches the wing’s fenestration: recessed arches, roundheaded windows, segmental arched tripartite mezzanine windows, a bow window. It’s not just an august purity auguring minimalism that defines Townley. Workmanship and materiality are also top notch. The facing ashlar was quarried from nearby Sheephouse. It has lower absorbency than most limestone. Mortar is barely visible between the masonry. Metal rods reinforce the slimmest of glazing bars. A mid storey string cornice and Greek Doric eaves cornice relieve the expanse of wall.

A tetrastyle Doric portico leads into the entrance hall which has twin Doric chimneypieces – more restrained versions that those in Castle Coole. That’s a theme developing in this article. Rectangular plasterwork wall panels resemble vast empty picture frames. A coffered ceiling adds to the room’s crisp angularity. Straight ahead – silent drum roll – is the rotunda, a nine metre diameter glass domed cylinder forming the core of the house. A swagger of genius. A swoop of plasterwork swags and skulls. Irish design at its most suave. All the plasterwork whether naturalistic or geometric is of shallow relief. There are two coats of paint on the rotunda walls: the current 1920s creamy beige over the original stone grey. The ribbed dome casts a spidery web of shadows which leisurely climbs the staircase as the afternoon progresses.

An interlinking ceiling rose pattern in the drawing room is similar to the overhead plasterwork of the dining room in Castle Coole. Like all the main rooms around the rotunda it is 7.3 metres deep. This layout allows all the main rooms to have natural light while the rotunda is top lit. Rokeby Hall is similarly laid out and equally bright. It is an efficient arrangement removing the need for corridors. Andrea Palladio’s 1560s Villa Rotunda outside Vicenza is an obvious source of inspiration although the dome of Townley is hidden behind the attic floor rather than being on full display. Surprisingly Francis’ drawings illustrate the final rationality of layout and simplicity of design was achieved through an evolutionary process. For example, the more elaborate Ionic order (which James Wyatt used for the portico of Castle Coole) was replaced with the plainer Greek Doric for the portico. Francis was clearly a master of the Golden Ratio.

A set of early 1900s photographs courtesy of the Irish Architectural Archive includes views of the interior. Furnishings were suitably classical and restrained. Chinese wallpaper in the south facing drawing room is a rare flush of extravagance. The boudoir and dressing room over the drawing room overlook the parkland. They are one of five family suites clustered around the first floor rotunda landing. On the floor above, the view from the servants’ dormitories is the backside of the parapet below a sliver of sky. The only unobstructed attic windows are in the west facing barrack room which looks down into the courtyard: guards needed to be on watch.

In 1957 the family sold the house and 350 hectare estate to Trinity College Dublin for use as an agricultural school. Since 1977, Townley and its immediate 60 hectares has been a residential study centre owned by the School of Philosophy and Economic Science. A single level extension (visible as one storey on the north front) was recently completed over the kitchen wing plus a double height access link to the original house. The two main conservation schools of thought are to either design an extension that blends in with the host building or one that contrasts with it. The current Irish notion strongly favours the latter. Oh the architectural profession’s fear of that ultimate sin: pastiche! That’s despite every other modern glass building being derived from Philip Johnson’s Glass House in Connecticut and its 70 year old ilk. RKD Architects of Newmarket Dublin secured planning permission for an extension that consisted of similar massing to that executed except the courtyard facing elevation was a dormered mansard. RKD proposed Georgian style sash windows throughout.

Treasa Langford of Dúchas Heritage Service commented on the application, “The finishing of the north wall is not specified; however, the construction is specified as exposed uncoursed rubblestone, which would appear to be inappropriate on a cut stone house such as Townley Hall. We would recommend a ruled and lined nap lime plaster finish without use of cement.” Her opinion is based on the view of sympathetically blending old and new. It could be counterargued that rubblestone would be suitably subservient to the cut stone of the grand main block, emphasising the ancillary nature of the wing.

A decade later, MVK Architects of Fitzwilliam Square Dublin’s design also secured planning permission and this time it was built out. Their approach is very different. The design concept is to add an identifiably contemporary layer to this historic property. Subordination and deference are common themes of both practices’ thinking. MVK’s has neither a mansard nor Georgian style glazing bars but the window openings are classically positioned and proportioned.

Michael Kavanagh of MVK Architects relates, “The choice of material was based on aesthetic as well as practical considerations. Natural zinc has a light grey colour – from historic photographs it appears the slate on the original roof had a similar light grey colour. The material is not intended to match the limestone colour but rather be complementary to it. Zinc is natural, hardwearing, long lasting and difficult to puncture. These characteristics make it ideal for long term weatherproofed cladding. It is stiffer than lead or copper and consequently allows for the crispness of detailing which is intended throughout.” This metal envelope is fixed on plywood decking across battens to form a ventilation zone. The zinc is fitted in strips of varying widths using a staggered but repeating rhythm which reflects the use of differently sized limestone blocks on the main house exterior.

The best example in Ireland of a Modernist addition to a neoclassical building is of course the Ulster Museum Belfast extension. Edinburgh architect James Cumming Wynnes won the 1913 competition for the original museum. The exterior displays fairly ornate Beaux Arts decoration. In 1964, London architect Francis Pym won a competition to extend the museum. His highly inventive design is at once contextual and disruptive. He draws out the neoclassical detailing such as cornices and string courses which then collide with abstract cubic concrete blocks expressing the layout of the galleries inside. Francis’ dramatic work is unsurpassed in its genre. Surprisingly, he worked in church conservation and his only other recorded built form is a gazebo somewhere in England.

This is an article of superlatives. The O’Connell Wing of Abbey Leix in County Laois is a study in how to do it right. Architect John O’Connell’s masterful 1990s reimagining of an unfinished 1860s wing by Thomas Henry Wyatt (an Anglo Irish distant next generation relation of James) is a lesson in improving what’s there already. Client Sir David Davies explains, “This extension was never built as planned but the remains of the Wyatt scheme – a low unadorned wall to the right of the main house was a disfiguring distraction, an issue O’Connell resolved by puncturing the walls with windows and adding architectural ornament.” John O’Connell was also responsible for the late 20th century restoration of Castle Coole. This is an article of connections.

Sympathetic contextual additions; visibly contemporary extensions; dramatic architectural interventions; subtly remodelled wings – they all have their place and supporters. English Poet Laureate and architectural historian Sir John Betjeman once stated, “I have seen many Irish houses, but I know none at once so dignified, so restrained and so original as Townley Hall in County Louth.” More than 230 years after it was finished, such is the strength of Francis Johnson’s design, capturing the spirit of a future age, it still possesses dignity, restraint and originality.

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The Inner Temple Garden + The Middle Temple Garden + The Garden Room Restaurant Temple London

Paper Buildings Real Flowers

Sophie Tatzkow, Deputy Head Gardener of The Inner Temple Garden shares the evolution of the high border: “Over recent years, it has been undergoing a transformation moving away from the resource intensive management that heavily relied on annual bulbs in spring and various seasonal display changes throughout the year. The adaptation of the border is based upon detailed observation and evaluation of environmental conditions to blend beauty with sustainable cultivation.”

The Garden is only open to the public for a few hours each weekday. She elaborates, “One of the keys to this evolution is layered biodiverse planting where reliable trees and shrubs form the backbone, underplanted with resilient perennials, grasses and self seeding plants. This structure reduces the need for replanting which lessens soil disturbance. Undisturbed soils consist of a network of billions of beneficial organisms such as bacteria, fungi and earthworms which together create a wonderful environment for plant health and wildlife.”

“The High Border is now a living breathing ecosystem that thrives on resourcefulness,” Sophie relates. “The long season pollinator friendly planting with repeating patterns creates an ever changing yet harmonious space where nature and cultivation coexist. The greatest satisfaction I take away is the cultivation of a border by blending beauty with ecological responsibility. As custodians of this Garden it is important to champion a conscious approach of reducing waste, conserving resources and creating beautiful biodiverse and wildlife friendly ecosystems.”

For Sophie’s Victorian counterpart, the smog of London proved challenging and so Samuel Brome favoured hardy plants. In his 1861 bestseller Culture of the Chrysanthemum as Practised in The Temple Gardens, he recommends balsam, calceolaria, scarlet geraniums, snowdrops and tulips. He explains that shrubs do not fare well in pollution while some varieties of dwarf roses, being close to the ground, are less affected by smoke. The Plane Tree is one of his recommendations as it sheds bark each spring and “by doing, it gets rid of the soot, which sticks to other trees like varnish, and which there is no getting off”. Plane Tree allergy sufferers of the 21st century would come to regret his arboricultural allegiance.

The Middle Temple Garden is the smaller of the two green spaces. Tudor Hall dominates its northern side. The Garden Room restaurant spills onto a terrace on its eastern side. This area was once part of the River Thames. In the 1530s the land south of the Temple was drained and reclaimed to create more space for the expanding Societies. The earliest record of landscaping of The Middle Temple Garden is a 1615 “Gardener’s bill for the new knott”. At this time the level of the ground was raised and a vogueish geometric knot garden created filled with scented plants like rosemary and sweet briar.

The Temples Conservation Area includes one Scheduled Monument, eight Grade I Listings, 12 Grade II Listings and five Grade II* Listings in Inner Temple; seven Grade I Listings, four Grade II* Listings and nine Grade II Listings in Middle Temple; and two Grade II Listings on Victoria Embankment. Unsurprisingly this forms one of the greatest concentrations of historic protected buildings and structures in London.

In Roman times, the western route out of the City approximately followed what is now Fleet Street and the Strand on the higher ground north of the marshy margin of the Thames. The slope from Fleet Street to the Strand and downwards to the Thames remains a prominent feature. The religious Order of the Knights Templar was established in Holborn in the 1160s before relocating to the Temples. In 1185, Temple Church was consecrated. The Templars were suppressed by Parliament in the early 14th century and Parliament voted to handover the property to the Order of St John. At that time, parts of the Estate were already leased to law students.

After Henry VIII’s Dissolution the property went to the Crown which granted freehold to the Benchers of the Temple in 1608. The Inns of Court would become fashionable places of education during the Reformation. The other two Inns of Court are Gray’s Inn and Lincoln’s Inn, both in Holborn. They are the four professional associations for barristers in London. These historic collegiate institutions provide education, training and social networking for emerging and established barristers. Membership is mandatory for anyone wishing to practise as a barrister. There is no visible physical distinction between Inner and Middle Temple Inns except many buildings in the former display the symbol of Pegasus and in the latter, Agnus Dei.

A few buildings survived the Great Fire of 1666. Tudor and Tudoresque architecture intermingles with Georgian. The construction of the Embankment in the 19th century extended The Inner Temple and Middle Temple Gardens. Buildings damaged in the World Wars were sympathetically rebuilt in the mid 20th century. The Gardens, only open during restricted hours or when let for functions, are very much part of hidden London.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses People

The Hamiltons + Hamwood House Dunboyne Meath

Taking Refuge in the Shelter of Your Wings

Stephen Odlum sums up the origins of Hamwood House in his book Eva, Letitia and The Hamilton Sisters: Class, Gender and Art (2021): “The Hamiltons originally came from Scotland in the early 17th century and initially settled in the north of Ireland. The first of these settlers was Alexander Hamilton (1690 to 1768) who was MP for Killyleagh in County Down. In a tradition followed by many subsequent generations of the Hamilton family, he became a land agent. He seems to have been particularly successful in this role and left his five sons land worth £50,000. His son Charles Hamilton (1737 to 1818) moved south to Dublin where he first traded as a wine merchant. It appears that this business flourished, as he decided to build a house reflecting his new status. He chose to build in an area to the east of the village of Dunboyne in County Meath close to the border with County Dublin and only about 15 miles from the centre of Dublin.”

The writer details, “The Hamilton sisters remained attached to the old Ascendancy social monies and traditions. Letitia, Eva and Connie, who developed a gardening consultancy business, and Ethel, up to her death in 1924, pooled their resources to live in refined but declining style in a series of large, rambling houses in the Castleknock and Lucan areas of County Dublin from 1920 onwards. Manners mattered more than money – dinner was a formal event which the ladies dressed for and were summoned by a gong. In a world which would become increasingly dominated by Catholic dogma, Letitia and Eva would have had a liberty that was not often open to their Catholic sisterhood. Those who did choose to pursue modern feminist ideas were seen as being ‘West Brit’ or pro British. Indeed, Catholic women who were educated and middle class were more likely to join forces with their Protestant counterparts to achieve social and political recognition, as seen in the suffragette movement in the early part of the 20th century.”

It’s an unseasonably cool and overcast spring morning to meet Charles Hamilton VII for a private tour of his splendid home. The four bay two storey over basement under attic entrance front or perhaps it is the garden front (to be explained later) has curved wings extending out like crab claws grabbing pebbles – the end octagonal pavilions. “The house was built by Charles I in 1777 for £2,500,” introduces his descendant. “Ham comes from Hamilton and Wood comes from his wife Elizabeth’s maiden name Chetwood. Charles II’s wife Caroline found the house draughty – the original entrance on the side or west elevation opened straight into the reception rooms – so that’s how the current arrangement came about. A corridor now separates the entrance door from the living quarters. The driveway used to access what is now the garden elevation – really the house is back to front. In very hot dry summers the ghost of flowerbeds appears opposite the current entrance front.”

A set of early 1900s photographs from the Irish Architectural Archive includes a picture of the garden. And sure enough it is filled with flowerbeds. Other pictures show the house with window shutters and the house with the shadowy ghost of window shutters. Previous generations pose on the lawn and in the library.

Charles adds, “Caroline insisted on many more trees being planted to help create shelter for the strong winds. Remember that when she arrived at Hamwood in the early 1800s it was a cold and bleak situation and very exposed being 300 feet above sea level. That may not sound particularly high but in relatively flat Leinster there was nothing between the house and the east coast! Caroline and her husband were greatly involved in the interior design of the house too, adding furnishings, artwork and ornaments.”

“The architect is unknown,” he explains, “although a surveyor Joseph O’Brien is mentioned in family papers. During the 1798 Rebellion the agent for nearby Carton was hanged. So my ancestor Charles I took over as agent and my family continued in the role from 1800 to 1950. This supplemented the income they made of the 165 acres at Hamwood. The family have always been very active in the community. They set up agricultural societies to create work and during the famine they ran a soup kitchen. My father Charles Gerald was the last agent of Carton. The Duke of Leinster sold it to Lord Brocket and then eventually it was turned into a hotel. We will walk round to the other side of the house, down the long garden which has unbroken views across the countryside. Unbroken thanks to a nine foot wide haha.”

“The 1911 Census records a butler, three yard men, coachman turned chauffeur and five indoor servants. I remember as a child we still had seven glasshouses filled full of peaches and nectarines,” says Charles. Upon entering the house through the ocean blue coloured door, visitors are greeted by a Canadian moose head in the octagonal hall. The corridor ahead feels early Victorian: it is lined with tongue and groove wooden panelling and encaustic tile floored. It leads into an elegantly furnished double drawing room spanning the full four bay entrance front. The pale sea green blue walls are filled with paintings and drawings.

There are two corresponding reception rooms on the garden front. The two bay dining room is painted deep shell pink. Two similar oil paintings hang side by side: Mrs Charles Hamilton by Sir William Orpen (the subject dressed in back with white frills writing a letter) and Portrait of Louisa Mrs Charles Hamilton by Eva Hamilton (the subject in the same outfit reading a book). “Eva and Letitia both trained at the Dublin Metropolitan School of Art,” Charles confirms, “where the prominent Irish artist William Orpen taught. Eva was especially influenced by Orpen’s style.”

Bright and airy even on a dull day, bedrooms fill most of the first floor. A roof lantern lit corridor extends off the staircase landing. “The two storey library wing was built by my great uncle,” notes Charles. “It disrupts the symmetry of the garden elevation.” The two pane Victorian glazing has been replaced on the principal front with 12 panes on the main block and intricate gothic topped panes on the arched windows of the wings. A painting of another country house hangs in the staircase hall. He states, “That was our family estate at Ahakista in West Cork. The television presenter Graham Norton lives there now. We used to have a townhouse in Dublin too – 40 Dominick Street Lower.” This four storey three bay terraced house, built in 1760, is now a language school. Hamwood House still stands proud as the family seat of the Hamiltons.