Lavender's Blue: Wherever there's design there's Lavender's Blue

Heaven’s in the Detail

Chelsea is synonymous with a great school (Chelsea Academy), a fab hotel (Chelsea Harbour Hotel) and of course an international design hub (Design Centre Chelsea Harbour). The latter plays host to WOW!house once again this year. This portmanteau with a sandwiched exclamation mark is back with aplomb. Despite being only five years old, WOW!house is already a firm fixture of The Season, betwixt the Chelsea Flower Show (more Chelsea) and Royal Ascot.

“London is leading the design world,” fashion powerhouse Dame Mary Martin believes, “and Chelsea is the microcosm of the creative Capital. Studios like The Bomb Factory Art Foundation on Lots Road near Chelsea Academy are exploding with originality. The terrace of the Chelsea Harbour Hotel is one of my favourite places for enjoying a cocktail in between shows.” Her eponymous brand Mary Martin London is now one of the hottest names in international haute couture.

Following the Ralph Lauren pre party (where blue and white are the new black) Darren Price, Director of Adam Architecture, introduces the reconfigured Size Group Façade: “I enjoyed talking to you last year about the original design. I wanted to play with the architecture and remodel it just as one might evolve a design in the real world. The central portico has been expanded either side to create a loggia. This provides a three dimensional experience for visitors.” His oeuvre ranges from restoring country houses to delivering complex interior packages with many projects involving Listed Buildings.

“I took the principles of early Georgian architecture,” Darren says, “and fast forwarded to the Regency period of Soane. I have not created a historical artefact: this structure demonstrates that classical design can be appropriate for contemporary settings.” He also designed the standalone Hector Finch Garden Folly which complements The Size Group Façade but takes on an apropos whimsical air with a tented roof. Darren concludes, “This folly was conceived as a moment of theatre and discovery!”

Enass Mahmoud, Founder and Creative Director of Studio Enass, designed the interior of the Hector Finch Garden Folly. She advises, “It’s a room evoking the escapism of an island getaway. At the heart of my work is storytelling. Here, I am the client envisioning a tranquil yet indulgent retreat designed for intimate joyful moments.” A shellwork frieze and scallop shell light pendent are breezy touches reflecting faraway places against the grounded richness of the gemstone red silk wallcovering.

Through the loggia lies Francis Sultana’s impressive Entrance Hall which leads into Róisín Lafferty’s immersive Shepel Library and onto the luxurious Lalique Home Bar designed by Chara Ghandi, Founder and Director of Elicyon. Chara gives a tour of this intimate 20 square metre space: “The bar is a collaboration with our sponsor Lalique. There are Lalique pieces dating from 1926 to 2026 incorporated into the interior. We have designed hidden compartments in the timber wall panelling which open to reveal more Lalique. It’s at once serene and spirited.” Even the stools have tiny pieces from the French crystal house embedded in their fabric covering.

She says, “This is a room that celebrates the pleasure of unveiling. It’s a journey for the curious. Luxury here is about precision, comfort and atmosphere rather than spectacle. We wanted the space to feel intimate and indulgent. The design presents Lalique through a crisp contemporary lens. “Rebecca Larn, Creative Director of Elicyon, adds, “Hosting is back at the forefront!” And Frederick Fischer, Managing Director of Lalique observes, “Crystal brings light, depth and surprise to any interior. The bar is a perfect setting for Lalique to shine in a modern context.”

Enass Mahmoud, Founder and Creative Director of Studio Enass, designed the interior of the Garden Folly. She advises, “It’s a room evoking the escapism of an island getaway. At the heart of my work is storytelling. Here, I am the client envisioning a tranquil yet indulgent retreat designed for intimate joyful moments.” A shellwork frieze and scallop shell light pendent are breezy touches reflecting faraway places against the grounded richness of the gemstone red silk wallcovering.

It’s Martin Kemp Design’s first show at the Design Centre Chelsea Harbour. The Parlour has plenty of wow factor! Founder and Managing Director Martin explains, “This room was conceived as a response to the immediacy of contemporary life – it rejects the idea of a single focal point. Instead, The Parlour unfolds as a sequence of layered moments. Many of the pieces in this circular space are from Avenue, a new furniture brand by Martin Kemp Design.” He was formerly Creative Director of the ultra luxury developer Candy and Candy. His current clientele is equally high end and international, from Monaco to Mumbai to Mayfair.

Whether George Smith’s “human sized dog bed” for the Russell Sage Studio or the dog bed in Misia for Casamance Group Bedroom Suite by Henri Fitzwilliam-Lay or the 55 lacquered “wall boxes” of the Benjamin Moore Minhwa Salon by Young Huh, this year’s WOW!house – all 600 square metres – is about lavish attention to detail. And what’s next for Darren Price’s Size Group Façade? Perhaps Vanbrughian vermiculated voussoirs for WOW!house 2027? As last seen at The Drama of Architecture exhibition on the distinguished wine merchant turned playwright turned architect held at Sir John Soane’s Museum, Holborn.

Design Museum London + Alexander McQueen + Rebel Show

Rebels With a Cause

The John Pawson redesigned monument to minimalism has taken on a whole new splash of colour and pattern. Making waves at the Design Museum is Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion sponsored by Alexander McQueen. Dynamic, daring and determinedly rebellious, this show invites visitors to get on a Septemberfest rollercoaster of a ride. The press breakfast (avo prods and fruit torpedoes – fashionistas need to keep trim) – is full of everybody one should know on the elite fashion circuit.

Tim Marlow, Chief Executive of the Design Museum, shares with us, “We’re delighted to be collaborating with the British Fashion Council to showcase and explore the youthful energy, creative vision and rebellious spirit that is so central to their NewGen programme. Visitors are going to be stunned by many of the instantly recognisable fashion items on show. We hope they’ll also be captivated by the breadth, depth, diversity and world class talent that has emerged from the London fashion scene in the past three decades.” Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council, reciprocates, “We’re thrilled to be collaborating with the Design Museum to celebrate our wonderful NewGen initiative and its influence and legacy over the last 30 years.”

And stunned we are – what a show! All 300 or so designers who benefitted from the rightly celebrated NewGen grant funding programme are referenced. Lee Alexander McQueen was the standout talent from the first NewGen cohort. Archive pieces and photomontages give insights into his – to put it mildly – nonconformist work. ‘Art Show’ celebrates London’s art education establishments and features more talented alumni. But this is no passive exhibition. It’s full on interactive. ‘Backstage’ is all about artificial reality sponsored by Snapchat. Before long we’ve donned designer motorcycle helmets, had our faces painted and entered a cyber world of fun. That’s before shaking our booties to Eric Martin (Technotronic) in the ‘Club’ inspired by those 90s temples of decadent dance, Heaven and Turnmills.

Next comes ‘Runway’ where dozens of mannequins are frozen in time mid strut. Collections by J W Anderson, Wales Bonner, Craig Green, Christopher Kane, Meadham Kirchhoff, Sinéad O’Dwyer line the catwalk. Wait, there’s more! ‘Changemakers’ celebrates NewGen designers doing just that since 1993 – confronting the norms, fighting against stereotypes – in performance and politics. Sarah Mower, British Fashion Council Ambassador, tells us more, “It’s impossible to underestimate the influence London has on Britain’s fashion talent. It’s a city that produces wave after wave of young designers who value originality, wearing what you believe in, and tackling social issues to make a better world. The city’s art schools, clubs and catwalks are brought to life like never before.” Marjan Pejoski’s Swan Dress is one of many eye catching pieces never before on display in London. Born in Macedonia, the designer studied at Central Saint Martins before unveiling his first show in 2001. That same year, Icelandic singing sensation Björk famously wore the dress to the Oscars.

‘Colour Explosion’ revels in just that. Clements Ribeiro recalls, “Colour was massively unfashionable at the time. Everything was grey, downbeat, raw edged or minimal. We decided to go against it with colour, cashmere stripes, clashing prints and luxury. We called it ‘clumsy couture’. Colour turned out to be our superpower.” Fellow designer Craig Lawrence created huge knitted colourful forms in materials such as sweetie papers. He reflects, “My Ribbons Jumper and Leggings are like a big creamy strawberry marshmallow. That summer I was an ice cream man in Ipswich. Somehow, the extreme lollipop colours, stripes and bobbly bits sort of seeped into my Central Saint Martins holiday project.”

We’re at the Rebel press preview with another super talented member of the Martin family. Carrying on the fearless rebel tradition, Eric Martin’s sister, fashion artist Mary Martin, says, “I’m the middle child, the seventh of 13 children. We’re all very creative. I’m loving this show – it’s absolutely fabulous! I studied fashion at the University of East London and launched my label Mary Martin London in 2018. It’s fascinating to see this record of rebelliousness at the heart of London fashion. I like to see my clothes as carrying on that tradition, flying the flag.” Literally – one of Mary’s early dresses was a reworking of the Union Jack. We check out Russell Sage’s upcycled Union Jack jacket which Kate Moss modelled for a Vogue cover back in the day. Then it’s on to the next show. The waves haven’t stopped rolling in the capital.

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