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Beijing Daxing International Airport + Zaha Hadid Architects

Radial Romance

Zaha Hadid never did get to see the finished project. She died in 2016, three years before completion. It’s yet another star in her architectural firmament or rather starfish in her architectural ocean. The world’s largest terminal in a single building. All 700,000 square metres. Current Studio Principal of Zaha Hadid Architects Patrik Schumacher was the co designer. The six storey airport – four above ground; two below – is arranged around a “central orientation space dome” to quote Zaha. Five aircraft piers radiate out from this vast atrium. The tip of the sixth arm is filled by the railway station plaza. Max eight minute walks to departure gates. Patrik this time, “Echoing principles in traditional Chinese architecture that organise interconnected spaces around a central courtyard, the terminal’s design guides all passengers seamlessly through the relevant departure, arrival or transfer zones towards the grand courtyard at its centre – a multilayered meeting space at the heart of the terminal.”

Disciplined, rigorous and highly intellectual, the design achieves a large measure of lyrical beauty from its deeply sensuous sinuous architecture meets sculpture form. Daxing is one hour’s drive south of Tiananmen Square, just round the corner in Beijing distance terms. It strategically and symbolically terminates the Central Axis of Beijing. This line leads from the Throne Room of the Forbidden City down the middle of the roughly symmetrical street plan of the city. Illustrated brass plates across the airport floor mark the city as compass: 48 kilometres from Bell Tower; 47.8 kilometres from Drum Tower; 46 kilometres from Pavilion of Myriad Springtimes Jingshan; 44.2 kilometres from Tian’anmen Rostrum; 43.3 kilometres from Qianmen; 41.4 kilometres from The Temple of Heaven; and 40.2 kilometres from Yongdingmen.

Under one of the vast mushrooming ceilings, shopping pods include Bally, Boss, Coach, Michael Kors, Montblanc, Polo Ralph Lauren and Jingdong Convenience Store. On the second floor, East Pacific Passenger Lounge provides a dining area, bar, gym, meeting rooms and bedrooms spread over a large oval floorplate. The great outdoors and indoors collide in themed indoor amenity areas: Chinese Garden, Countryside Garden, Porcelain Garden, Silk Garden and Tea Garden. These oases are sandwiched between the double ended prongs at the five aircraft piers of the symmetrical starfish layout.

There are juxtapositions and there’s the cutting edge Zaha Hadid Architects design (glass and metal) backdrop to the traditional Chinese Garden (timber and stone). Visitors could be forgiven for thinking they have arrived in the Forbidden City without ever having left the airport. A pair of exquisitely painted pavilions filled with polished antiques stand proud on either side of a pond. Rockeries and a gazebo complete the Willow Pattern scene. It’s hard to appreciate the full scope and scale of the airport either upon arrival or from the indoor outdoor experience. The sweep of undulating red roofscape – a contemporary bow to historic Eastern architecture – is best appreciated from the window of a China Southern Airlines plane.

Meanwhile back in London, Serpentine Galleries are collaborating with the Zaha Hadid Foundation this year to commemorate her legacy and mark the 25th annual Serpentine Pavilion – she designed the inaugural temporary structure in 2000. A series of lectures and events will fill architecture and design connoisseurs’ diaries this autumn. Artistic Director of the Serpentine Hans Ulrich Obrist says, “We often quote Zaha Hadid’s belief that there ‘should be no end to experimentation’. Zaha’s spirits remains a vital inspiration for our programme.” Director of the Zaha Hadid Foundation Aric Chen comments, “Through her boundary breaking life and work, Zaha changed the course of architecture. Her early and longstanding collaboration with the Serpentine played no small piece in this. We’re thrilled and honoured to start this collaboration with an institution she was so close to and one that so deeply shares her commitment to innovation and the public.”

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The Peninsula Hotel + Jing Restaurant Beijing

Peking Pie

“Jing” has multiple Mandarin meanings including peacefulness, reverence and essence. And as it turns out, marvellous restaurant. Welcome to The Peninsula Hotel where no man is an island.

It’s a bit like eating in a super posh Westfield if you’re a Londoner or Macy’s for New Yorkers. The lower and much lower ground floors of The Peninsula form one of Wangfujing District’s finest luxury shopping malls for well dressed interiors and citizens. Basement Level I: Arc ‘Teryx, Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Jenny Packham, Louis Vuitton, M L Luxia, Minotti by Domus Tiandi, The Peninsula Boutique and Zilli.  Basement Level II: Baxter, Domus Tianti, Giorgetti, Henge, Living Divani, Oluce, Onno, Poliform, Promemoria and Salvatori. Jing Restaurant is on Basement Level I. Its little sister Huang Ting Brasserie is on Basement Level II.

We’re celebrating life in a rather literal way having dodged the ubiquitous duvet clad mopeds which swerve and keep going rather than stop at pedestrian crossings. All those inflight Baduanjin exercises on China Southern Airlines possibly made us more supple at dodging oncoming traffic. At this rate we’ll be up for some postprandial synchronised dancing later in Ri Tan Park. Front of house, or rather front of retail unit, beckons us to the bar. A card awaits: “Dear guest, welcome to Jing. Before starting a gastronomic journey we invite you to enjoy one glass of apéritif at the bar. Bon appetit! Jing team.” The apéritif is a Kalimotxo which originates from Basque Country and is a combination of red wine and cola. A bottle of Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups, Montlouis Sur Loire Remus, 2023, swiftly follows.

Hand painted wallpaper and gigantic circular semi transparent silk embroidered screens cocoon guests in luxurious surrounds. French born Chef de Cuisine William Mahi is redefining modern French cuisine with Basque and Asian creativity. Mang-mang sik! He teases out the essence of food sourced from the China Sea, Chongqing farms, Sichuan Lakes and Yunnan Mountains with precision, sincerity, refinement, purity and harmony. We get around so what are our cornerstones of a beautiful meal? Easy. Hervé This defines three out of four of them in Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavour, 2002. All non calorific.

Champagne: “When we hear the unmistakeable sound of the cork popping off a bottle of Champagne, we stop talking and look closely at what happens as it is poured into our glass. If the foam subsides slowly, if the frill of bubbles is delicate and persistent, and if the liquid is effervescent, the wine is considered to be of good quality.”

Truffle: “The black diamond! An immense amount of ink has been spilled in singing its praises. No food writer fails to mention its appearance on a menu, and no chef neglects to feature it when he aims for stars. In Europe there are 10 sorts of truffles, which is to say mushrooms of the Tuber genus. The black truffle, also called a Périgord truffle, is harvested principally in Spain, France, and Italy, but its gastronomic qualities vary from region to region.”

Foam: “Low in fat because they are essentially made of air – foams came to prominence with the rise of Nouvelle Cuisine in France in the 1960s and then gained broader popularity as a consequence of the growing interest in lighter foods on both sides of the Atlantic. Today, with the advent of molecular gastronomy … they are very fashionable among gourmets.”

Caviar.

Dom Pérignon. Champagne, tick. A waiter appears with a bread trolley and gives a performance of firmly slicing the freshly baked offering while pointing out the yeast jar on display. The staff to client ratio is high although it is a random Wednesday lunchtime. Piped easy listening jazz contrasts with the formality of service. Sweet pea tarte amuse bouche. The Brie Truffle (Normandy Brie D’Isgny, Yunnan black truffle, pear). The black stuff, tick. Spider Crab Tart (spider crab, shiso, sea urchin, basil oil, oxalis flower, citrus confit, crab foam, horseradish, dill flower). “The crab consommé has been simmered for 24 hours,” the waiter explains. Foam, phew. Scallop Blanc de Noir (pan seared scallop, brown butter, pear). Ya’an caviar and chive salmon tartar amuse bouche deliver the fourth cornerstone of a beautiful meal.

The dining space as subterranean capsule. Underworldliness. A sanctuary of taste. Who needs windows when you’ve priceless contemporary art to admire? Chi! Chi! Chi! Such is the importance of food that while Europeans count heads per population, Chinese count mouths. Spinning plates: Maître d’ Oliver Huang and his waiting staff are as deft and elegant as ballet dancers, effortlessly weaving round the tables with extravagance of grace and posture in a timeless duration of curation for this is not mere service.

Edible flowers are scattered over one course. Ah! Could this be our fifth cornerstone of a beautiful meal? Fig walnut toast with brie truffle mascarpone followed by a glass of Americano egg foam tick two of our current cornerstones once more. Peartree and cinnamon clove ginger tea is the ultimate palate cleanser. The waiter dons white magician’s gloves for handling the silverware – a drawer full of cutlery appears and disappears throughout the meal. The stiffly starched linen tablecloth covering the round table as big as the silk screens is regularly hand vacuumed. Steaming hot hand towels keep our hands clean.

Protein forward Chinese truffles come from the foothills of the Himalayas where they are harvested at an altitude of about 2,000 metres. The main production areas are Yongren County in Yunnan Province and Panzhihua in Sichuan Province in very southwest China. They are planted at least a dozen centimetres below ground. The Chinese truffles have a bumpy dark brown surface covered in low scales displaying an inverted pyramid form with a square base similar to the Périgord truffle. Lunch in Jing is all about gourmet satisfying fashionable molecular gastronomy.

Oh and for good measure, “Bei” like “Jing” also has multiple Mandarin meanings including preciousness, treasure and north. Jing relishes in preciousness of cuisine in an artistic treasure trove north (east) of Tian’anmen Square. Nothing too tenuous there.