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Gosford Castle Markethill Armagh + Thomas Hopper

Norman Gates

In 1970, the Honourable Desmond Guinness, Founder and first President of the Irish Georgian Society, participated in the television programme Whicker’s World. He told the presenter Alan Whicker that, “In England any dovecote by Robert Adam has been written up about 20 times in Country Life.” While the aforementioned magazine featured Gosford House in East Lothian in 1911, it does not appear to have ever included Gosford Castle outside Markethill in County Armagh. Gosford Castle has though appeared in several books on Irish architecture and rightly so.

Brian de Breffny’s Castles of Ireland, 1977, is a serious study of fortresses and fortified houses. He records, “When it was completed after 20 years, Gosford was claimed to be the largest country house in Ireland – a massive complex of circular towers, angular keep, bastions, towerlets and arches linked internally by rambling corridors. Pale granite quarried at Bessbrook in County Armagh was used for its construction. The Norman theme is pursued purposefully and executed with masterful originality.” Gosford Castle is no mean dwelling, but Coolattin and Humewood (both in County Wicklow) as well as Temple House (in County Sligo) would give it a long and strenuous run for its money as Ireland’s largest country house. Its restoration is approaching 20 years in the making.

Mark Girouard in his seminal 1979 work Historic Houses of Britain (before the avalanche of country house coffee table books truly spilled forth) mentions Gosford Castle when writing about Penrhyn Castle in Gwynedd, Wales, “Thomas Hopper had been fashionable ever since George IV – then still Prince Regent – had commissioned a Gothic conservatory from him in 1807 for Carlton House, London. Like most architects of his time, he was prepared to design buildings in almost any style. Hie had already designed one castle and altered another. His new Irish castle was Gosford in County Armagh. It had the distinction of being the first of the new castles to be Norman.”

“By the 1820s there were plenty of new castles but only one other new Norman one, and that in a part of Ireland which relatively few people visited. The reason why most people steered clear of Norman was straightforward. Norman was the oldest, most primitive and uncomfortable of the English styles (except of course Saxon, of which only a handful of churches, and no houses or castles, survived). It was hard enough to build something which looked sufficiently like a castle and was still reasonably comfortable without loading the dice against oneself by making it Norman too.”

The most recently published commentary on the castle comes from Kevin Mulligan, The Buildings of Ireland: South Ulster, 2013. It is part of the series founded by Sir Nikolaus Pevsner and Alistair Rowan similar to that on England, Scotland and Wales. “Set on a ramparted platform in dense woods, Gosford is a great brawny pile. Large and unforgiving, its castellated form rises mirage like, a picturesque grouping of square and circular masses with carefully recessed surface layers and an impressive display of Romanesque detailing. Even in pale granite, the architecture appears grave, a brooding grandiloquent expression of an invented past that represents the most assured instance of a revived Norman style in these islands.”

“It was probably Hopper’s role as arbitrator in a dispute between Nash and Lord O’Neill at Shane’s Castle in Antrim in 1816 that won him the commission here, brought to Lord Gosford’s notice perhaps by his agent William Blacker, who had also acted for O’Neill. It is difficult to gauge the role of the Earl in the actual choice of design, but there is nothing to suggest that he was the innovator. The Romanesque style was never to become popular, the general view holding that the forms of its apertures are inapplicable to our habits. Hopper’s unique feeling for Romanesque forms expressed here, and later in a more ambitious work at Penrhyn Castle in Wales, was undoubtedly conditioned by his birthplace in Rochester … Hopper was to express deep regret that he had come to Ireland, so disillusioned had he become with his patron in 1834. Even then the castle was far from complete.”

“The second phase of work, undertaken by Hopper’s assistant George Adam Burn for the 3rd Earl, involved the creation of a new bastioned entrance on the eastern corner of the north front, along with the completion of the family apartments in the straggling northwest range. The architecture subtly becomes more eccentric and the details more inventive. Adding a new two storey entrance block on the northeast corner, Burn disrupted the formality of its cubic proportions by forming an unusual engaged cylinder as a corner turret to the first floor Billiard Room.”

Sir Charles Brett devoted four pages to Gosford Castle in Buildings of County Armagh, 1999. Charlie’s epic series on the architecture of the Counties of Ulster was cut short by his death six years later. “An important work by one of the leading London architects of the first half of the 19th century, Thomas Hopper, 1776 to 1856. Sir Howard Colvin says that Hopper was an eclectic designer who held the belief that ‘it is an architect’s business to understand all styles, and to be prejudiced in favour of none’, and considers that ‘his most interesting and original works were the two Norman castles in which he effectively combined picturesque massing with a remarkable repertoire of Romanesque detailing which owed something to his familiarity with the 12th century keeps of Rochester and Hedingham.’ His pupils included the young Belfast architect John Millar, who worked on this commission with him, and signed a drawing showing the proposed front elevation.”

“The design was commissioned by Archibald Acheson, 2nd Earl of Gosford, after the previous house had burned down. Mark Bence-Jones says that it was ‘largely paid for by his wife, the daughter and heiress of Robert Sparrow, of Worlingham Hall, Suffolk: so that it is possible that the choice of so strange a style as Norman was hers; she was a lifelong friend of Lady Byron so may have absorbed some of Byron’s exotic and somewhat sinister brand of romanticism.’” Even before the castle was completed, the Gosfords separated and Lady Gosford returned to live in Suffolk where she died in 1841, eight years before her husband. Her Ladyship’s final earthly journey was not without incident. A record from the time states, “On its return journey to County Armagh for burial in the family vault at Mullaghbrack, her coffin was mislaid by the drunken servants whom Lord Gosford had sent to fetch it, and was conveyed by train to somewhere in the Midlands.” Charles Acheson the 7th Earl of Gosford, born in 1942, whose father sold the castle, lives in Suffolk.

Charlie continues, “Gosford is remarkably large, remarkably elaborate, and exceptionally well built – indeed, it appears not just defensible but practically indestructible. It is dominated by its great square keep with corner turrets containing chimneys, with subsidiary round and square towers. Bence-Jones considers that ‘the garden front has a strange beauty; the stone seems pale, Norman becomes more like Southern Romanesque’. The grouping is masterly; the walls are at different angles to each, so that there is a great sense of movement. Although Norman was really unsuited to 19th century living, the interior does not suffer from the heaviness one finds at Penrhyn.”

Bringing the commentary up to date Nicholas Sheaff, first Director of the Irish Architectural Archive, offers these observations in 2024: “The neo Norman style was practised with great conviction by the architect Thomas Hopper in the second quarter of the 19th Century. It was a ‘reinvention of tradition’ (to pirate historian Eric Hobsbawn’s theme) which had its origins in two distinct aesthetic currents. The first current was the neoclassical proclivity for the ‘elemental’ in architecture, awakened by the rediscovery of the Greek temples at Paestum and amplified by the architectural visualisations of Piranesi, particularly his ‘Carceri’ of the 1750s and Paestum etchings of 1778. The second current was the growing pride in British nationhood in the years after Waterloo, with an exploration of the national tradition in architecture and decorative design where the Norman (often dubbed ’Saxon’) was seen as the fountainhead.”

“As the architectural historian Hugh Dixon has suggested, Hopper’s massing of architectural forms at Gosford probably derives from the profile of the great Norman castle of Carrickfergus County Antrim, with its dominating central keep. Hopper’s interior planning embodies a narrative informality which draws on the example of his older contemporary John Nash, each room contributing a fresh spatial and decorative experience to the interior sequence. Hopper’s neo Norman architecture has a sculptural and emotive presence which is the antithesis of the rectilinear, rationalist neoclassical. A lithograph of circa 1830 portrays Gosford Castle in an almost untamed wooded demesne, an irregular architectural grouping set in a vigorous natural environment as advocated by Richard Payne Knight, that leading aesthetician of the picturesque. The lithograph presents a romantic vision of a turbulent landscape under a northern sky, as painted possibly by Jacob van Ruisdael, far distant in its style and impact from the arcadian vistas and golden light of Claude Lorrain.”

It is something of a wonder that Gosford Castle and its demesne both survive for ever since Thomas Hopper put pencil to paper it has had a rocky time. Financial constraints, disputes and overseas sojourns slowed down construction. In 1821 the outbuildings were progressing; in 1828 the Portland stone staircase was erected; in 1833 plasterers and joiners were working on the main rooms; in 1835 Lord Gosford became Governor in Canada for four years; in 1840 Newry architect Thomas Duff took over designing alterations and additions although Thomas Hopper remained involved at some level; in 1852 the Armagh Guardian reported that “a number of tradesmen are now engaged finishing the remaining wing of this building”; in 1864 the 3rd Earl died and the house became a family shooting lodge; in 1888 the 4th Earl sold the library; in 1921 he sold the rest of the contents; in 1940 the British army occupied the house; and in 1978 the Northern Ireland Forestry Commission acquired the 240 hectare demesne and castle. At least Gosford Castle didn’t burn down like its Georgian predecessor which had ended up a charred ruin in 1805.

An estate acquisition by the Forestry Commission normally rang the death knell for a house (not least Pomeroy House in County Tyrone) but somehow even after a failed stint leased to a hotel, Gosford Castle has survived relatively unscathed. The unrelenting permanence of this mountain of a house built of local stone rooted in geography and history continues to shine like a beacon in the woods. The road to its revival has not been smooth and is a story of changing ownership, court cases and construction delays – all sounding familiar as history repeats itself. Hopefully the restoration won’t take longer than the original construction.

At the opening of the 21st century, the Belfast architectural practice The Boyd Partnership led by Arthur Acheson (no relation to the Gosfords) was commissioned by the developer Gosford Castle Development Ltd to design the conversion of Gosford Castle into 23 homes. Arthur had form. He had restored the 17th century Finnebrogue House near Downpatrick and converted outbuildings to residential use. Arthur and his wife lived at Finnebrogue from 1994 until 2009. He died earlier this year. In her condolences, Lord Lieutenant of Belfast Dame Fionnuala Jay-O’Boyle noted the architect was founding Chair of Belfast Civic Trust.

The rockiest of times had immediately preceded The Boyd Partnership’s involvement. Marcus Patton reported in the Summer 2006 Heritage Review of the Ulster Architectural Heritage Society that, “It is one of fewer than 200 Grade A Listed Buildings in Northern Ireland and is arguably our most important building at risk. The Society has maintained a keen interest in its future, and for those with knowledge of its recent history the confirmation of its sale for £1,000 to a private developer on 6 January will have come as something of a surprise.”

“Perhaps the most disappointing aspect of this process has been the lack of vision shown by central Government as the long term custodian of the castle. We all recognise the significant challenges that such a building can present, and we want to see it sympathetically restored. However this surely could have been achieved in a manner which would have allowed public access to the most important internal spaces as well as facilitating wider economic regeneration.” The Society was concerned about the loss of internal architectural detailing and spatial integrity through the conversion process.

Just before his death, Arthur explained, “In the design of this restoration we as a company decided to break away from the typical apartment model usually associated with conversions of Listed Buildings. Instead we opted to develop the castle as a series of individual homes, each with their own front door, hallway, staircase and in some cases, as many as four floors of accommodation. These unique homes range in size from 92 square metres to 371 square metres.” The average sized three bedroom house in the UK is 88 square metres. This vertical arrangement maximised character and minimised room subdivision. Country townhouses.

The contract value of the development is £8 million; work began in 2006 and is well progressed in 2024. This restoration and conversion is in three phases: firstly, the western part of the family wing and the southern part of the courtyard into eight houses; secondly, the northern part of the courtyard into four houses; and thirdly, the eastern part of the family wing and all of the main block into 11 houses. The cylindrical tower is one of the self contained houses. The neo Norman decorative plasterwork and panelling of the principal rooms such as the Library have been restored. It is unknown if any of the military graffiti scrawled on internal walls will be retained in situ. The demesne is open to the public as a forest park.

Dixie Deane records a structure that predates the castle in his 1994 gazetteer Gatelodges of Ulster, “Circa 1700. Off the old county road, now absorbed into the enlarged Gosford Estate, lie two large ornamental ponds between which the avenue to the manor house led over a causeway. The access is below a semicircular headed carriage archway in a large wall of roughly carved rubble whinstone dressed in classically moulded carved limestone.” On either side of the archway are attached 15 square metre porters’ lodges. Each has a Dutch gable reminiscent of Richhill Castle, also in County Armagh, and Springhill County Londonderry. Perched on their roofs are Sir John Vanbrugh style arched chimneystacks mimicking miniature belfries.

A rerouting of the road to Tandragee means the former gamekeeper’s cottage dating from circa 1840 is now accessed off a cul-de-sac backing onto the Gosford Castle Estate. Probably by Thomas Hopper, it is as unique in its own way as the neo Norman castle: this rustic log cabin is a gingerbread house brought to life. Spindly metal columns prop up a steep hipped roof and frame a wraparound verandah. The walls are panelled with narrow strips of wood at various angles and the windows have triangular heads. A simple rendered contemporary extension doubles the ground floor accommodation of this diminutive dwelling. The cottage is now a two bedroom holiday let.

Gosford Castle is a marvel in so many ways. For starters, why did the 2nd Earl and Countess of Gosford select neo Norman instead of the more popular Gothic or Italianate styles? Perhaps it was in the spirit of choosing your ancestors wisely. In a country of castles to show off your ancestry the next best thing to living in a Norman castle would be erecting and living in a neo Norman castle. The turn of the 18th century entrance archway and lodges – Blenheim Palace on Keizersgracht – are very special. The lodges are windowless but roofed and vegetation has been removed. Most marvellous if not miraculous of all is the survival and reuse of the wooden former gamekeeper’s cottage.

Gosford Castle itself has never looked better. The huge revivification is finally nearing completion to house 23 new Lords and Ladies of the Manor. The white stone glistens in its dense forest surroundings like a fairytale scene. Surprisingly there was no enabling new development as part of the restoration and redevelopment. The Planning Appeals Commission has though in 2024 allowed on appeal a development of 11 one and a half storey contemporary cottages in the abandoned car park to the rear of the castle courtyard. The adjoining walled garden will be restored as part of this residential development.

Commissioner Laura Roddy reports, “The scale and massing proposed with the low elevation design would respect the Listed Building. Whilst the proposed dwellings would be of a more modern design than the castle, this, combined with the simplicity of the design would ensure that the proposed dwellings would be sympathetic to, and do not compete with or detract from, the castle.” She concludes, “Overall, I find the appeal proposal would be of a sympathetic scale of development and would respect the character of the setting of the Listed castle and walled garden. Further, it would restore the Listed walled garden, reinstate the historic pathway between the castle and walled garden and include a significant level of landscaping which would be sympathetic to its setting.” So in the end enabling development was allowed – just for the walled garden not the castle.

And that concludes the definitive tale of Gosford Castle, spanning two centuries and delivered in different voices over four decades, its origins best summarised by Nicholas Sheaff’s narrative of two distinct aesthetic currents.

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Architects Architecture Country Houses People Restaurants Town Houses

The Auld Bank Coffeeshop + Crossroads Gortin Tyrone

Steeped in Resonance and Nuance

It’s the most architecturally appealing aesthetically appetising crossroads in County Tyrone. To the northeast, a coffeeshop. To the southeast, a church. To the southwest, a school. To the northwest, a country house. All oozing rural charm. Welcome to Gortin. The ‘t’ is pronounced “ch”. The main approach to the crossroads could hardly be more dramatic. An inland corniche snakes through the purple heather topped Sperrin Mountains in a downward spiral (Gortin Lakes on one side, Gortin Forest on the other) before plummeting into the valley of the Owenkillew River to arrive at the crossroads. It’s time to go for a wee dander. If the crossroads is considered the western end and St Patrick’s Catholic Church accessed off Chapel Lane the eastern end, that means Gortin High Street is the princely length of 585 metres long.

There’s been a small drop in population (the 2011 Census states 412 inhabitants) and a forest planted since Samuel Lewis’s 1837 Topographical Dictionary of Ireland was published, “Gortin, a village in the Parish of Lower Badony, Barony of Strabane, County of Tyrone, and Province of Ulster, five miles east of Newtownstewart on the road to Cookstown; containing 441 inhabitants. This place is situated in a deep watered valley, and in the district of the Mounterloney Mountains, of which it may be considered the chief town. It consists of one irregular street containing 82 houses indifferently built; the surrounding scenery, though boldly picturesque, is destitute of embellishment from the want of wood, which is found only in the demesne of Beltrim, the handsome residence of Arthur Hamilton, which is surrounded by young and thriving plantations. The parish church, a neat small edifice, is situated here, also the parochial school and a dispensary.” Diarist John McEvoy went even further on highlighting its significance in 1802, “The village of Gortin may be considered the capital of this immense region.”

The Auld Bank Coffeeshop is a single storey dropping to two storeys to the rear three bay building facing the high street. “Auld” meaning “old” is pronounced “owl”. Its rough cut stone and brick quoined exterior is more associated with east of the River Bann villages such as Hillsborough and Moira. Ulster Bank closed its branch in 2015 and the building owner, Blakiston-Houston Estates Company, converted it into a coffeeshop. A very popular one at that, serving the best panini west of the Bann. The bank was built in 1845 with a gabled porch added in 1980. In true late 20th century style, the fanlight and sidelights surrounding the entrance door have a postmodern feel to them. The interior has been opened up; simple ceiling mouldings provide an unpretentious backdrop to the café.  On the other side of Main Street, The Auld Forge, a shop selling country clothing brands such as Hartwell, Laksen and Dubarry of Ireland, has opened in a former warehouse next to St Patrick’s Church of Ireland.

Alistair Rowan sums up St Patrick’s Church of Ireland in his 1979 Buildings of North West Ulster (sponsored by Lord Dunleath’s Charitable Trust), “1856 by Joseph Welland, replaced the first Lower Badoney church of 1730. A standard stone built hall with short sanctuary, end porch, and bellcote. Short paired lancets, seven down each side, with quarry glass, and a nice braced truss roof inside, high and a little richer than usual.” A sprawling underdeveloped graveyard drapes a green apron around the south front.

Professor Rowan goes on to explain the church architect’s credentials, “The Church of Ireland had from 1843 one architect, Joseph Welland, who catered for all its needs. His qualifications were impeccable. Welland, a relative of the Bishop of Down, had trained in Dublin in the office of John Bowden, through whom in 1826 he obtained the appointment of architect to the Board of First Fruits in the Tuam Division. In 1839, when the Irish Ecclesiastical Commission replaced the old Board of First Fruits, Welland was appointed one of its four architects (although the older William Farrell seems to have retained responsibility for the North), and in 1843 on the reorganisation of the Commission he became the sole architect.”

Beltrim National School is a long single storey white rendered with slate roof building looking over the road to the cemetery. A juxtaposed case of early life meets eternal life. To either extremity of the façade is an entrance (one for boys, one for girls) separated by six tall windows. Both entrance doors are painted farm shed red with a school name plus date plaque (1899). Completely symmetrical, the former school turned holiday let portrays provincial architectural perfection. So contained, so uncontrived. Higher up the brow of the hill – in fact the last and most southerly building on Glenpark Road, the serpentine leading out of Gortin towards the forest and lakes – is Lower Badoney Parochial Hall, another single storey modest building. Again a name and date plaque gives away its use and age (1884). A gleaming Victorian villa stands between the school and hall.

There’s nothing obviously castellated about Beltrim Castle. There are apparently remnants of the 1620s bawn completed by Sir William Hamilton hidden deep in the fabric of the building. Tyrone people call country houses “castles”. Locals refer to nearby Baronscourt (firmly in the country house category) as “the castle”. Alistair Rowan believes the current appearance of Beltrim Castle dates from the 1820s and notes its overhanging eaves. The low two storey house is incredibly attractive in an understated Ulster manner. The five bay entrance front has a fanlight over its entrance door as big and grand as one on any Dublin townhouse. A later boxy porch was removed last century to reveal the doorcase in all its spiky splendour. To the rear of the main block, Beltrim Castle’s return wing is nearly as long as Gortin High Street or at least a terrace lining it. A lean-to conservatory attached to the wing has long since disappeared. The estate is privately owned by the Blakiston-Houstons but its gardens are occasionally open to the public. In 2015, the now 35 year old Jack Blakiston-Houston married the actress Emma Hiddleston, sister of the actor Tom Hiddleston.

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Architecture Country Houses People

The Darlings + Crevenagh House Omagh Tyrone

The Demise of a Demesne

Patrick McAleer writes in Townland Names of County Tyrone and their Meanings (1936) that Crevenagh aptly means “a branchy place”. Like most Irish townlands, the name had gone through several variations – Cravana, Cravanagh, Cravena, Cravnagh, Creevanagh, Creevenagh – before landing on Crevenagh. At the heart of the townland is the ever disintegrating Crevenagh House and its ever diminishing estate. The property first appears as Creevenagh House on the second edition Ordnance Survey Map of 1854. A gatelodge, summerhouse, outbuildings and formal garden are also shown on the map.

According to Billy Finn who wrote an essay The Auchinlecks of Ulster for the County Donegal Historical Society Annual of 2011, “The name Auchinleck was derived from the Gaelic Ach-ea-leac which means ‘field of the flat or flag stones’. The first recorded Auchinleck was Richard Auchinleck, who was a witness at a Sheriff’s in Lanark in 1263. Nicholas Auchinleck was uncle and ally of William Wallace (Braveheart) in the ambush at Beg in 1297.” The Auchinlecks would come to Ulster in the early 16th century.

David Eccles Auchinleck (1797 to 1849) was the youngest son of Reverend Alexander Auchinleck and Jane Eccles of Rossory, County Fermanagh. In the early 19th century he bought land at Crevenagh from Lord Belmore of Castle Coole, County Fermanagh, to build a home. He would later buy more land from Lord Belmore and build Edenderry Church of Ireland church three kilometres southeast of Crevenagh House. The church is a simple stone barn structure with a lower apse projection at one gable end and a chimney sized belltower over the other gable end. The online Dictionary of Irish Architects by the Irish Architectural Archive records that a builder William Mullin (or Mullen) designed and built the rectory next to the church in or after 1873. The rectory is a substantial two storey rendered dwelling. Is he also responsible for the church? There are Auchinleck, Darling and Moriarty family memorials next to each other in the sloping graveyard. Other surnames on gravestones include Atwell, Holland, Shelbourne and Somerville.

In 1837 David’s eldest son Thomas was born. He married Jane Loxdale of Liverpool. Thomas, who served in the Devonshire Regiment, died in 1893, leaving Jane a widow at Crevenagh House for the next 28 years. Their son Dan married Charlotte Madaleine Scott of Dungannon (who would become known as Aunt Mado). Dan was killed in action at Ypres in 1914 while serving with the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers. His widow stayed with her mother-in-law until she died in 1921 and then on her own until her death in 1948. Colonel Ralph Darling and his wife Moira Moriarty of Edenderry inherited Crevenagh House from his Aunt Mado. Their son Gerald Ralph Auchinleck Darling (known as Bunny) and his wife Susan Hobbs of Perth, Australia, inherited the house 10 years later.

Sue Darling along with David Harrow wrote a history of Edenderry Parish in 2001. They summarise, “In 1656, John Corry purchased the manor of Castle Coole from Henry and Gartrid St Leger. His great granddaughter, Sarah Corry, in 1733 married Galbraith Corry, son of Robert Lowry, and about the year 1764 assumed the name Corry in addition to that of Lowry. From this union are descended the Earls of Belmore and most, if not all, the townlands of the parish passed to the Belmore family.” Including Crevenagh. A memorial in Edenderry Church of Ireland church to Bunny’s cousin, Field Marshal Sir Claude Auchinleck (1884 to 1981), states, “The plaque, the design of which is identical to the memorial in St Paul’s Cathedral, was erected beside others to members of the Auchinleck family, most of whom were killed in action.” Sir Claude (known as The Auk) was a frequent visitor to Crevenagh House.

Billy Finn explains, “Of course, Field Marshal Sir Claude John Eyre ‘The Auk’ Auchinleck, Commander-in-Chief of the British Army, Middle East and India, was to lead the British forces in the North African desert against Rommel in 1941 to 1942, while his brother Armar Leslie Auchinleck was killed at the Somme in 1916 serving with the Cameroonians attached to the Machine Gun Corps. Sir Claude lived most of his life in far off places like India, spending his final years in Marrakesh, Morrocco, but he never forgot his roots, declaring he ‘was proud of being an Ulsterman’.” He continues, “Whether it was at war or peace, the Auchinlecks of Ulster were ‘always on the alert’ and, even though there is little evidence nowadays of Auchinlecks in the north of Ireland, with the majority of descendants emigrating abroad, they remain one of the most intriguing of all the Ulster Scots families.”

In his introduction to The Military Papers of Field Marshall Sir Claude Auchinleck (2021), Timothy Bowman records, “Sir Claude Auchinleck himself, when relinquishing the colonelcy of the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers, which he held between 1941 and 1947, identified his Irish origins by stating, ‘My forefathers lived in Enniskillen and Fermanagh for very many years and this makes me all the prouder to have belonged to the regiment.’ In fact Auchinleck’s father had equally firm roots in Counties Tyrone and Wexford and his mother’s family came from Galway. Auchinleck’s ‘Irishness’ can be questioned by the fact that The Irish Times, which had been the newspaper of the Anglo Irish establishment, though it had moved far away from these origins by 1981, did not carry a full length obituary of him and the recently published Dictionary of Irish Biography does not devote an entry to him. Professor Thomas Fraser overstates the contrary interpretation by noting that, ‘Two things stand out from Auchinleck’s background and early life: his sense of identity as an Ulsterman and his commitment to India.’ However, it is clear that Auchinleck spent most of his school holidays at Crevenagh House, near Omagh, County Tyrone, and visiting the house in August 1946 his private secretary, Shahid Hamid, remembered Auchinleck saying, ‘This is where I belong and that is why I am glad to be back here again to see you all.’”

The early 19th century main block of Crevenagh House was built in front of a smaller, lower, earlier house as often happened in Irish architectural aggrandisements. The grey of cement render walls and natural slate roofs contrasts with the red paint of the window frames and doors. The rear wing as it became (housing the kitchen and store) was extended in the late 19th century to include the addition of a plate glass chamfered bay window. The only completely symmetrical elevation is the three bay façade facing the rise and curl of the avenue. All five main windows are tripartite. The window of the polygonal porch (a later addition?) is bipartite. Entrance doors on either side of the porch lead into an entrance hall behind which lies a double return staircase positioned on the axis. There is fine Grecian plasterwork with matching overdoors throughout. It is a complete neoclassical villa plan as the chronicler of northwest Ulster, Professor Alistair Rowan, points out. The windows of the three bay side elevations are symmetrically positioned except for a shorter wall space next to the rear wing. The ground floor middle window on each elevation is bipartite but blind on one half as the window crosses an internal partition wall.

A short distance from the house is the farmyard enclosed on two opposite sides by a high wall and on the other two sides by two storey stables and workshops. The walls are roughcast lime rendered and the roofs corrugated iron and slate giving a vernacular appearance typical of rural Ulster. A walled garden leads off the courtyard through an arch. The walls of the square gatelodge with its pointy roof are also painted white. Dixie Dean writes in The Gatelodges of Ulster Gazetteer, 1994, “Circa 1845. In pristine condition a single storey stuccoed lodge below a hipped roof with big crude paired brackets to the eaves. Its sheeted front door and sash windows of the three bay front gathered under an all embracing label moulding. Built for Daniel Auchinleck …” To the rear of the house is a three bay single storey building with a stone front and other elevations roughcast, similar in size to the gatelodge. Is this the summerhouse identified on the 1854 Ordnance Survey map? Attached to its front elevation is a forecourt enclosed by two metre high cast iron railings.

Bunny and Sue Darling gave their last joint interview at Crevenagh House in 1991. They covered several broad subjects before honing in on their house. Bunny did much of the talking with his wife interjecting at times. “The Famine was an accident waiting to happen. It’s very hard to imagine eight million people living in Ireland. There are four million people now and out of that four million we have one and a half up here and they have two and a half in the south. Of their two and a half four fifths live in Dubin. There used to be twice as many people.”

“It’s very difficult to know where they all lived except when you go out on the mountain – you used to go out grouse hunting when I was young, no grouse nowadays – you can actually see where the farms went higher and higher up the mountain, and little gardens were very carefully walled off. People emigrated and died around the Famine time but it was almost certain to happen because there was too much dependence on one crop. And when that failed three years running things were bound to go wrong.”

“Things weren’t bound to go as dreadfully wrong as they did because when you read one terribly good book called The Great Hunger written in 1962 by Cecil Woodham-Smith they were actually exporting grain from down in the south while they were importing maize here. Of course nobody would eat maize – Kellogg’s Cornflakes and corn on the cob hadn’t been invented. People were just handed maize to make flour but it wasn’t in the nature of Irish people to eat that sort of stuff even if they were starving. That made it worse – it must have been simply horrible. The effects of the Famine depended on what the landlords were like. Some of them weren’t even in Ireland and it was left to an agent to look after things. In the end it depended on what sort of people they were and how much land they had.” Sue added, “The Auchinlecks had 5,000 acres.”

“Then the Land Acts came along to try and provide land for peasants because unfortunately by the Brehon law which is the Irish law you divided and divided and divided land. So out of the little plot of land, say half an acre, the two sons then had to have a quarter of an acre each and you go on until people were trying to farm a postage stamp. You couldn’t do it. To try and correct the Brehon law they had the Land Acts and took the land away from the landowners and paid them some sort of recompenses for the land. This took away the rental income, the land, and then the land was divided among the tenants so they got more land and they didn’t have to pay rent anymore.” Sue commented, “The landlords were paid handsomely actually. They were pleased with it at the time. The money got spent, mainly on horseracing and gambling!”

Bunny then started reminiscing about his youth. “I was born in the rectory at Cappagh about nine miles from Crevenagh in 1921. When I was a boy I used to be very impressed with my important relations living here. I stole fruit out of their garden with some trepidation that my own relations would catch me doing so because it’s quite hard to get into the big walled garden. In those days they had two gardeners. It was a wonderful garden like a showpiece with a beautiful border running up the middle. There’s two and a half acres of it and they had every kind of tree. Each flowerbed had little hedges round it. All that’s gone because you couldn’t keep that up nowadays.”

“My father was a colonel; I and my brother didn’t get on terribly well with my father. Almost to spite him we both joined the navy when the war started. I volunteered from school and I joined up as a boy seaman at 18 in 1940 and served in the navy through to 1947 so my adolescence disappeared chasing Germans and Japanese. I had a wonderful cook’s tour of the world because we always went east and my job was to be a sailor and also an air pilot. I flew spitfires from aircraft carriers so it was all very exciting – whenever you weren’t terrified!”

“You don’t believe that anything can happen to you in those circumstances. When I was still 18 I flew an aeroplane into a hillside and broke everything: both my arms and both my legs and my pubis and my pelvis and my hip was dislocated and fractured. So the doctor came and put his hand on my shoulder and said, ‘You needn’t think about flying again. You’re not going to walk again.’ I didn’t believe that and I was actually flying three months later. Of course it came back on me when I was 65 and had the usual hip operation. You don’t believe you’re going to get hit or that you won’t recover. Coupled with that when you’re that young you have a death wish that you wouldn’t mind dying cos it would be quite pleasant to die before you’ve done any harm. It’s a sort of very curious attitude to have, especially if you’re flying.”

“When the war ended I had no money at all because there was no backup from my father. My father was pretty badly off – he had by then moved into Crevenagh House and he hadn’t got money to go with it. I went to Oxford University where I had three scholarships waiting for me and read law. The scholarships were in Classics – Greek and Latin – but I changed to law mainly because I thought being a barrister was the only thing that couldn’t be nationalised. The Labour Government were just getting in for the first time.”

“Then the next stage in being a barrister is very uncomfortable because you don’t earn anything straightaway. You do nowadays, more than then, but then you didn’t earn anything for years. The only thing I had in the way of means was a scholarship which was £4 a week and so I lived on £4 a week in London and I can tell you that’s very difficult. I did a little bit of jobbing gardening and got the free rent of a potting shed at the bottom of a garden in Lancaster Gate, Paddington. It was a tiny little potting shed: you had a little table, a bed, a chest of drawers and a bookshelf and with a one bar electric cooker I used to cook and live there. Nowadays you wouldn’t be able to live on £80 a week. That would be the equivalent of £4 a week I think. However I got through the stage of what is called pupillage or apprenticeship to be a barrister. By a sheer fluke I was offered a chance of specialising in shipping law – ship collisions and salvage. I ended up as leader of the Admiralty Bar in England which is the top place in the world for shipping law. That why I couldn’t do it in Belfast.”

The conversation moved onto the origins of the Auchinleck family in Ulster. “The Auchinlecks came here in 1625 I think, the first record of them being in Cleenish which is now Ballinaleck. The first Auchinleck that came over was Rector of Cleenish. They came from Scotland; of course it’s a Scottish name. They go on from there mostly in Fermanagh working for the Belmore family. They bought the land for this house from the Belmores actually and curiously the Belmores were thinking of this site rather than Castle Coole for their major house. And it wasn’t quite as ridiculous as it sounds because this is up on a hill here and the river curves round below us – a lovely site looking across to mountains. You can’t see the river now because of the railway embankment and then the flood bank land was vested for playing fields.”

“It was a lovely site and it was a mile out of the town. Omagh has now grown round us so we’re a little island of green among housing estates like Thornlea which all ring our boundaries. Everyone around us presumably are millionaires while we remain very poor except we’ve got nice green land round the house. The Auchinlecks having started in 1625 in Ireland wouldn’t really count as Irish I suppose but it’s very hard to become Irish if you start Scottish. I can say while I’ve got a beautiful English accent I’m half a Kerryman cos the Moriartys came from Dingle.”

“The house is a military house because this is an Auchinleck house. It’s not a Darling house. And the reason I’m here is because my grandfather was a very poor curate and he used to make money by special coaching for children and looking after them in the summer holidays. So he came here to do that for the Auchinlecks and married one of the two daughters of the house. Well, the son of the house was Dan Auchinleck and he went off to World War I and got killed pretty well at the beginning in 1914. So that left his widow here from 1914 until 1948 and no male heir so when she died in 1948 my father inherited because he was the only male heir through his mother and that’s how the name changed from Auchinleck to Darling. It’s essentially a military house because nearly all the Auchinlecks were soldiers, the most famous one being Field Marshal Auchinleck who was a field marshal in World War II.”

And then the house was talked about in detail. “I think the marriage to the sugar heiress made it possible to build this house and then they were a family of some note. It was built in about 1810 or 1815 or thereabouts. It was built onto an existing farmhouse. Pictures we’ve got of it show it was just bare ground round the farmhouse where all the trees are now. So it all started from that. The trees are now over 100 years old. I’m beginning to wonder how long they will go on living. All those wonderful beeches all round the house.”

“There have been very few changes to the house. There was a bit built on really for guest rooms and odd things including a bathroom. The only bathroom in the house despite all its grandeur was in the annex bit where Mrs Bell lives now. We have a tenant there now because we don’t need all that room. That used to be the only bathroom – it was downstairs and it wasn’t in the main house! Apart from that there haven’t been any real changes in the house. We had to buy a new roof the other day. Fortunately I was in my full earning period as a QC so were able to afford it with a little help from the Listed Building people. The Listed Building people are rather tiresome because you think you’re going to get a lot of money out of them. Then they come and say what they want and so you end up finding the whole thing is much more expensive than you thought. So the money you get out of them really goes on doing the extras they insist on.”

“The house is unchanged from those days and architecturally one of the three main features is a thing called Wyatt windows. The windows are very very broad centrally and on each side of the main window is a little window and that is an architectural trick to make the house not look too tall. Because it is in fact quite tall – you can see that from the ceiling heights. It has the advantage that it make the house look very attractive outside. It has the disadvantage that there are an awful lot of windowpanes to leak draughts through.”

“And then the other quite exceptional feature is the mahogany doors and that was a quirk of fate. They came from Demerara with an heiress who was associated with the sugar business in Demerara. And then the third feature is a marble floor in the hall depicting the Seven Ages of Man right through from a puking infant to a decrepit old man like myself! We keep it covered with carpet. Those are really the three features of the house; otherwise it’s more or less a standard Georgian house. It is a good one – it has very thick walls; it’s very well constructed.”

“In the library there is about three feet underneath and right in the centre of the house there’s a very nice cellar you can get down to and in the cellar there is a well so that in those days there were thinking of defended farmhouses. That was to be the last defence – you got your water right down in the centre of the house. All the fireplaces are marble originals. The library has a good one. The grate is not the original grate – it’s a Devon grate for burning turf. You would’ve had a more ornamental one with vases but this has been converted to burn turf. We now burn logs as we’ve plenty of firewood. We harvest them in October to last us through the year. It’s cold and damp if you don’t live in the house. If you do live in it it’s fairly easy to keep it warm. You just have to remember not to leave the doors open on damp days or even on a cold day. The cold will come pouring in and run right through you.”

“There was a tennis court outside the library window. It was always pointing the wrong direction for the sun. It’s very hard to keep a grass court in Omagh. Tennis was governed by the weather, not like hunting which was governed by the breeding season, because only humans play tennis and they breed all the time and they don’t have a set season for it! When I was a boy I think there were 18 grass courts in the Omagh Tennis Club and the ladies of Omagh had a rota as to who would provide the tennis tea once a week. This was a great kudos, a great social occasion, and each lady in turn tried to have bigger and better cakes! You wouldn’t dare go there without your long white flannels – no shorts. Your decent shirt with buttoning arms and some kind of blazer or dark coat. And then you must not go with your shirt open. You had to have a little silk scarf which you made into a tie and tied it over so that it filled in your shirt. Well if you didn’t go like that people would say, ‘What’s wrong with that boy there; he doesn’t seem to know how to dress? We won’t ask him again.’ Things were like that in those days.”

“I had a kinsman who was a well known peer from round here, very eccentric in many ways. There were trains in Omagh; we all travelled by train up to Belfast and the Liverpool boat and so on. He used to turn up in a rather ramshackle but very grand for those days Austin and his attendant would get out with a large wicker hamper and that was taken into his first class carriage. But his next brother used to go into the second class carriage with a small package of sandwiches. Well, this same man was at one of those tennis teas where everyone else was behaving extremely well and somebody asked, ‘Would you like some cake, my lord?’ He said, ‘Yes certainly, would love it, I’ll have that big sticky one.’ So someone handed him the plate and instead of having the slice had the whole cake! He was a huge man. His descendants are extremely nice people and don’t eat complete cakes. They’re still around.”

Societal changes were discussed too. “That kind of lifestyle was really finished in World War I and staggered on in a fairly broken back way until World War II and then I think if you look in England or anywhere round Ireland it really all came to an end. If you want to live in this house you have to do it yourself. You buy as many machines as you can and hope they will do the work which people used to do. When I was a boy if you wanted to get a cook or a housemaid you only had to go to Donegal and you would have queues of people wanting to do the work. Nowadays you could put advertisements in the Con for domestic work and everybody would say not for me! That’s not specially Omagh; that’s just a big change in society. A whole generation of men were killed in World War I. It was a very foolish war and an awful lot of people were killed which took the heart out of the families who were in these houses and that applied to Ireland as well.”

“In spite of being neutral, Irish on both sides made an enormous contribution to the World War II and an even bigger one to World War I. In the hall that’s a Zulu shield from the Anglo Zulu War. They were all decimated defending and spreading the Empire and that’s really why there are no Auchinlecks left now.” Sue confirmed, “Everyone in this family was either in the army or the church. They spent their lives and made no money.”

Social mixing came up as a topic. Sue explained, “Generally speaking the class of people who lived in these houses integrated greatly. We’ve lovely stories: we’d Maggie Duncan from Drumnakilly who spent her whole life in this house and she told stories of how Mrs Auchinleck who was a great fisherwomen would occasionally get the gillie and the kitchen would be cleared and the gillie was very good on the squeezy – the accordion – and they would dance. Mrs Auchinleck was a widow here for years but young officers would come out and they would take a turn and they’d all have a dance in the kitchen. I think they integrated in a very nice way but there was a complete society in a house like this. It would have had an enormous amount of retainers and there were a lot of houses like this. Also, there was no transport – you had to make your fun where you were.”

Back to Bunny. “There was a room out the back called the servants’ hall and it had a great big table and at each end would have been the housekeeper and the butler and they were the head and foot of the table and then all the other people who worked in the house would be lined up on each side of the big table. They would’ve done very well on the class of food they got and they had their own rules. The same kind of thing as in that film Upstairs Downstairs – that was happening here as well except it wasn’t downstairs, it was on the same level.”

Sue again. “This Maggie who we were very fond of – well, my husband’s aunt and uncle were in charge of Springhill for The National Trust and they invited us over in spring when the house wasn’t open to have afternoon tea with them. I took Maggie and her friend Mrs Tracey who lived up in the top of the town. It was the most memorable tea party because Mr Butler showed them all round the house. We went into the different rooms and they would look at the fireplaces in Springhill and they would say, ‘My goodness, that would have been a good hour’s work at seven o’clock in the morning, cleaning that fire and getting it all ready for the next day!’”

Bunny once more. “Dear Mrs Tracey was a very keen Roman Catholic. She lived on that very steep hill that goes up from John Street to the Church of Ireland church. A little cabin. It must have been incredibly difficult to live there: very noisy, very hard to keep it clean or anything. I think it’s either tumbled or there’s some sort of café there now. Maggie was a very staunch Protestant; I think she would’ve been a Paisleyite probably. Come Christmas day we always had Mrs Tracey. We had to collect Mrs Tracey to share Christmas dinner with Maggie and they got on like a house on fire. Mrs Tracey had a mischievous sense of humour; great great fun. It depends on the family too. Some families were nice and integrated as my wife was saying and treated the people who worked for them well. Other families, usually because they weren’t quite sure of themselves, were pretty nasty.”

Country house pastimes were another topic. “Entertainment was various forms of shooting and fishing which according to how well off you were you could find. My favourite place for fishing was Loughmacrory Lough and I used to bicycle out the whole way to Loughmacrory and spend a day fishing there and then bicycle back. In those days you found your own fun because you were prepared to bicycle 12 miles. You didn’t wait till you could own a car or for your parents to drive you out there.”

“There were dances in Omagh usually with orange squash and with very severe controls on behaviour. If you were caught kissing somebody you would probably be kicked out. Of course there was the County Cinema and the Star Ballroom Cinema next door to our bakery, The Model Bakery. The back regions of the Tech are where the Star used to be. The Star had slightly more risqué films. A risqué film was a film that showed somebody’s knee more or less. The County was very reliable and posh. You used to take an expensive seat in the gallery for one shilling and one penny I think it was in old money. But if you were really bust you could all go in a gang and take a ninepenny seat down below. It was actually a very nice cinema run by Mr Donaghy. Once a year the circus used to come; it used to be a great annual event. You might possibly go up to Belfast for the pantomime in the Grand Opera House once a year.”

“I myself having two grandparents who were clergymen, entertainment at the rectories was entirely composed of Biblical quizzes, Biblical boardgames, Biblical this, that and the other. The result was I learnt my Bible terribly well but it wouldn’t sound very exciting to a child nowadays although the boardgames were the same old boardgames only about Biblical characters.”

“Of course there was the hunt, the Seskinore Harriers, which was going strong and with luck you could get some sort of pony and go out with the Seskinore Harriers. They had a point to point once a year at Strabane – a very ramshackle affair really. I remember once we were going to one jump and there were two old ladies wearing black shawls as they did in those days. There was a manner of dressing where people dressed in black dresses and wore black shawls. And two of these ladies were walking across from one jump to another and one of them said to the other, ‘Come on over here Maud and by the grace of God we’ll see a corpse!’ And that was the sort of thing you might see – someone breaking their neck at any moment but that was more important really than the result of the horse race!”

Finally, the ongoing connection to Omagh came up for discussion. “I used to come back to Omagh whenever I could. I only retired from the bar a year ago. My father died in 1958 so from then onwards we’ve been managing this place from a distance bar holidays. We were very lucky to have two women working for us who lived here and the pensioner Robbie Stockdale lived in the gatelodge. We put Crevenagh House on the market because we hadn’t got very much money and we were only offered the probate amount of £7,000 for the whole lot which was ridiculously low.” Sue recalled, “I’ve spent six months of the year here every year for a long time. It’s a very different outlook. I found it a total culture shock between living in London and living in Omagh. I found it very easy to get on with people in Omagh. The English are very law abiding. The law can fit in with your life here. I’m Australian. I love going back to Australia too and they come over here and visit. We’re almost professional guides with all our visitors!”

Two years after this interview took place, Bunny Darling was appointed High Sheriff of County Tyrone. Another role he had enjoyed was as Admiralty Judge to the Cinque Ports when the Queen Mother became Lord Warden in 1979. Her Majesty’s residence attached to this role was Walmer Castle in Kent. Bunny died in 1996 and seven years later, Sue put Crevenagh House on the market for the first time in its history and moved to England to live near their children Patrick and Fiona. The house and what remained of the estate were bought by a local businessman. As for the destiny of the lots? Lot 1a Crevenagh House is still structurally intact with the ground floor windows boarded up. Its grounds including the walled garden are overgrown. The gatelodge (excluded from the sale) is burnt out soon to disappear forever. The summerhouse is derelict but not beyond repair. Lot 1b Stable Block is burnt out but the shell could still be restored. Lot 2 Hill Field has been developed for housing. Lot 3 Orchard Field is under development for housing. The Omagh throughpass runs through Lot 4 The Holm and the remainder of this land is now a car park and playing fields.

Savills’ and Pollock’s auction catalogue states the following. Lot 1a Crevenagh House (12.56 acres): “A tree lined avenue leads from the public highway to the house which faces south and west over its own grounds. The Georgian house, built circa 1820 for the Auchinlecks, is a fine example of a period residence, set in rolling lawns and woodland. The house has remained in the same family ownership since it was built. There is a self contained and separately accessed staff or guest accommodation to the rear of the house. To the south of the stable block there is a south facing walled garden of approximately two acres surrounded by a brick wall, stone faced on the exterior. The southern boundary is formed by a pond.”

Lot 1(b) Stable Block (0.25 acres): “The stables are located within the grounds of Crevenagh House and provide an opportunity to purchase and develop attractive stable buildings and a yard for residential purposes. Planning permission was granted on 26 October 1999 for conversion into three residential units.” Lot 2 Hill Field (9.84 acres): “An area of south sloping pasture land divided into two fields. The fields are zoned for housing within Omagh development limits: Omagh Area Plan, 1987 to 2002. A planning application has not been submitted and prospective purchasers should rely on their own inquiries of the Planning Authority.” Lot 3 Orchard Field (8.92 acres): “This area of approximately nine acres lies to the east of Crevenagh House and is bordered by woodland. The south facing lands are not presently allocated for development but there may be longer term potential.” Lot 4 The Holm (9.73 acres): “This field, with access from Crevenagh Road under the old railway bridge, is bordered by the Drumragh River. The lands are presently used for agricultural and recreational purposes. Parts of this Lot will be affected by the new road throughpass but a portion of the remainder may have some development potential, subject to planning approval.”