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St Mary’s Church + Stratton Park Micheldever Hampshire

Lord of the Dance

There are neither sharp right angles nor precisely shaped polygons in the domestic architecture of Micheldever – from Church Street to Duke Street and from Rock Lane to Sloe Lane. Timber framed thatched medieval cottages with wonky jettied upper floors wend and weave their way through this chocolate box village. The geometry and materiality of the Parish Church of St Mary, set back from Church Street in sylvan grounds, couldn’t be more different from its neighbours.

Behind the late Perpendicular stone tower of the church is an octagonal brick nave. Battlements over the tower; a hipped slate roof over the nave. There are earlier and later additions in between but these two components form one of the most extraordinary juxtapositions in English ecclesiastical architecture. The patron of the nave rebuilding was the banking Baring family who have two country estates nearby: The Grange and Stratton Park. The architect was George Dance the Younger.

The Barings used the same architect for Stratton Park which was completed in 1806, two years ahead of the nave. George Dance remodelled an existing house in a forceful Greek Revival style. An imposing unfluted Doric portico anchored the nine bay main front into the ground with a misleading appearance of permanence. The first floor was treated as a piano nobile with taller windows. The ground floor was like a raised basement and the second floor like an attic. A generous void to window proportion added to the sense of massiveness of the stuccoed brick exterior. In 1963 owner John Baring, 7th Baron Ashburton, demolished the house. The portico still stands and a modernist brick and glass house was built behind it.

This rearrangement had at least one admirer. “Country houses are seldom built today in the grand manner,” opined Michael Webb in the 12 January 1967 edition of Country Life, “and when they are the result is usually a dispiriting pastiche of an archaic style … The old Stratton Park was built in 1801. It was never a distinguished building, and by the time Mr and Mrs Baring took it over, it was in bad repair and riddled with dry rot. They decided to demolish it and to commission a new house on the same site from Stephen Gardiner and Christopher Knight.”

He doesn’t dance around his subject: “Of the old house, only the impressive Doric portico was worth preserving, and this became the focus of the new composition: a much smaller house, entirely modern in concept and form, but integrated with a fragment of the old, as the new Coventry Cathedral relates to the bomb scarred ruin.”

Conservation architect John Redmill, who died in Dublin in 2024, stated, “Sir Francis Baring Baronet had employed George Dance to reconstruct his country seat at Stratton. This house, only five miles north of The Grange, was built for the Duke of Bedford in 1731 by John Sanderson, and had been partly demolished some years later. Dance had added the first strictly Greek Doric portico to an English country house – in scale and conception a neoclassical landmark.”

A sectional drawing and floor plan of the nave of St Mary’s Church are in the collection of the Sir John Soane Museum. Aged 15, Sir John’s first job was in the practice of George Dance the Younger. The section – complete with preacher in the pulpit – clearly shows the influence of the Ancient Roman Diocletian Baths. Clerestory Diocletian windows light congregants rather than swimmers. The floor plan introduces the executed corner arched recesses of the octagon.

Why a nave in the shape of a Celebrations box of chocolates? The architect was 63 (he would die aged 84 in 1825) when he designed the nave so it wasn’t an experimental flush of youth. It’s a shape that does improve internal visibility lines and there is precedent. In 1759, the main body of St Martin’s Church in Stoney Middleton, Derbyshire, was rebuilt in an octagonal form to the design of James Paine. That architect also incorporated Diocletian windows into the clerestory. A later example is William Rolfe’s 1821 Picturesque Gothic octagonal nave rising to a lantern at St James the Less, West Teignmouth, Devon. William Rolfe was a pupil of Sir John Soane. Octagonal naves are rare, even if not quite “unique” as each of these places of Christian worship claims on their websites.

Dancing in the morning when the world was young; dancing in the moon and the stars and the sun; dancing; back in London, dancing.

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The Grange Estate + Festival Alresford Hampshire

Antics Cono Sur

It’s one of the greatest flowerings of Greek Revival architecture in Europe. Yet it wasn’t purpose built: it’s a radical remodelling of an earlier building. This is the story of how a Restoration house in rural Hampshire became a cosmopolitan Greek temple (make that two Greek temples: minor and major) and after a few additions and subtractions evolved into a theatre and a theatrical backdrop for an opera festival.

“My father bought the estate in 1964,” recalls The Honourable Mark Baring on a private tour of the house (it’s not normally open to the public) accompanied by The Grange Festival’s Chief Operations Officer Michael Moody. “The Grange was out of Baring family ownership for 30 years. As a six year old I remember rooms with huge great pillars and bits of plaster in some disrepair. My father had a sale of contents which included the fireplaces. The stairs were sold and curiously they came back! My great grandfather had sold all the pictures.” In 1975 English Heritage took over the grey elephant that is The Grange. Mark has managed The Grange Estate, which his family own, since 2014.

He relates, “My father the 7th Baron Ashburton bought back the house and park for £157,000. That was for 660 acres and a crumbling house. Big houses were impossible to live in then under taxation rules. The house now gives so much to the feel of the opera!” Michael agrees: “It’s all about the setting in the landscape.” The inaugural opera festival was held on the estate in 1998. Four years later the orangery picture gallery (minor Greek temple) was opened as a theatre. Studio E were the architects for the conversion. The conservation architect was Dubliner John Redmill who smartly advised reinstating the Robert Smirke façade. “This reconnects the two temples,” John explains, “and acts as a screen to hide the modern building behind.”

When Mark’s ancestor Alexander Baring bought the estate in 1817 he commissioned Robert Smirke to add a single storey west wing and Charles Robert Cockerell to terminate the wing with a conservatory dining room (which would later become that orangery picture gallery). Robert was a pupil of George Dance the Younger and a leading light in the Greek Revival craze. His younger brother Sydney, also an architect, designed several Italianate villas stuccoed to the nines in Kensington Palace Gardens, London.

The main block of The Grange (major Greek temple) is the work of architect William Wilkins. In 1804 then owner Henry Drummond appointed the trailblazing Greek Revivalist to transform his Restoration house into an English Acropolis. The five bay fluted Doric portico (which swallows up the entire east elevation) is based on the Temple of Hephaestus in Athens. Michael explains, “This drastic rebuilding resulted in some windowless rooms!” The introduction of a high entablature meant the servants’ quarters in the attic lost their dormers. Form doesn’t always follow function. Henry Drummond wasn’t impressed and sold up.

“‘Situated on a gentle declivity, and sloping towards a fine piece of living water, embosomed in wood and approached by magnificent avenues, it has the effect in the landscape of those ideal scenes which, indulged only in the painter’s imagination are hardly expected to be realised in nature.’ Thus The Grange was described in the Gardeners’ Magazine of 1826 after the architects William Wilkins and Charles Cockerell had made it the principal monument in Europe of neoclassicism and the supreme achievement of their profession at the time. As such it has been of importance ever since,” John comments with just a dash of hyperbole. Whether the servants would have agreed is a moot point.

“The 1664 house was designed by William Samwell, one of Charles II’s three Court architects, for Sir Robert Henley,” says Michael. “It was all about very clever maths. The double height entrance hall was like the hall in the Queen’s House, Greenwich. It was a 27 foot cube. The bedrooms on either side were 18 feet square. The corner closets were nine feet square.” A Running Times Master Sheet is pinned to the wall of the basement kitchen dressing room, the last room on the private tour: “Le Nozze di Figaro Run Times, Monday to Saturday, 17.30 Curtain Up Part One (one hour 37 minutes), 19.07 Curtain Down Part One, Interval (one hour 40 minutes) 20.47 Curtain Up Part Two (one hour 37 minutes), 10.24 Curtain Down Part Two.” The Irish Georgian Society Review 2024 carried an obituary to John Redmill. “He frequently indulged his love of opera,” wrote Mary Narvell, “with attendance at music festivals.”