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Guggenheim Museum Bilbao + Making Africa A Continent of Contemporary Design + Ruth Asawa Retrospective

Jumping off Stage Into An Embrace

“After studying art and then studying architecture, I never needed the clarity of being either a professional architect or being an artist, and found sound kind of middle ground that was contaminated from all sides.” Elizabeth Diller, 2020.

This isn’t our first rodeo. It’s our second to the museum with a city attached. Back in time to October 2015. The moated mountain that is the Guggenheim. Looking (hyphen optional) shipshape. It’s approached by foot along the Abandoibarra riverside walk under Louise Bourgeois’ 1999 arachnid sculpture Maman which resembles for all the world – Philippe Starck on steroids – a giant Juicy Salif Lemon Squeezer. Art or design?

While the Frank Gehry designed museum’s regenerating “effect”, a left bank titanium building as quarter, inspired a rash of grimly unsuccessful turn of the century cultural projects (nobody mention Sheffield’s National Centre for Popular Music, imitators failed to register the added ingredients of Bilbao’s mix. Not one but a multiplicity of super architect projects including Arata Isozaki’s two fingered 23 storey cloud bothering salute as well as even recognisable names such as Santiago Calatrava, Norman Foster and Zaha Hadid. A delightful 15th century historic quarter. Dramatic scenery. Great cuisine. Good looking locals. Together these ingredients all made a recipe for success. As Victor Hugo once quipped, “Everyone who has visited the Basque Country longs to return; it is a blessed land.”

Making Africa A Continent of Contemporary Design is the latest exhibition at the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. The museum is closed to the public: we’re the first visitors. It’s curated by Petra Joos at the Guggenheim and Amelie Klein of Vitra Design Museum, Basel. The exhibition seeks to illustrate how design is steering change in Africa and presents the protagonists of this new epoch. Its context is globalisation through technology. “A part of this development is a new and open understanding of what design is,” explains Mateo Kries, Director of Vitra Design Museum. “It’s no longer limited to the creation of furniture, products, typography or fashion, but is very closely interwoven with the fields of photography, art, architecture and even urbanism.” He believes while this change is happening around the world today, it most clearly manifests itself in Africa.

Mateo’s counterpart Juan Ignacio Vidarte at the Guggenheim concurs, “It is in the intersection of innumerable creative fields that design holds a position as the focal point for multidisciplinary work. Making Africa successfully portrays the image of a continent that is beginning to move at this very moment.” C Stunners, 2012, eyewear sculptures by the Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru in the show’s Prologue section, are a metaphor for what’s to come. Who’s examining who? “We’re mutually examining ourselves,” Amelie contends. “The exhibition isn’t a totalising vision. Rather, a supplementary vision. Not an exhaustive dialogue – a starting point for our thoughts. One possible way, another way, of looking at the continent.” The exhibition cleverly conveys the diversity and complexity of Africa. After all, this is a landmass of one billion people.

Western misconceptions are diminished. Laughter replaces tears. “Something I got obsessed with is people dancing to Pharrell Williams’ video Happy!” smiles Amelie. “I really watched those videos, I dunno, for nights and nights in a row! There are dozens from Africa. Yet in our Westernised minds the continent is always struggling.” She selected the work of young South African photographer Jody Brand which depicts not only African street style but also party life and in doing so reflects a changing society. Jody’s images show there’s much more than struggle to Africa.

Guggenheim Museum BilbaoGuggenheim Museum BilbaoGuggenheim Museum BilbaoLike Mateo, Amelie believes “the continent is at the forefront of global technological change”. She continues, “Modernism was the result of change in Europe 100 years ago. What will we see coming out of this change?” The politics of representation are never far away. Who’s allowed to speak about Africa? The curators engaged in an intense three year preparation to quality. Their exhibition includes 75 recorded interviews with artists and designers. “In reality of course,” concedes Amelie, “there are millions and billions of different Africas. How can we speak about one Africa? From Cairo to Cape Town, there’s a lot in that!”

Making Africa attempts to answer many questions but the curators want visitors to go away asking new questions. And preferably seeing Africa in a new way or ways. “You will see art in this design show,” warns Amelie, “but I’ve used every single piece to make comment on design. That’s the thread that keeps everything together. I can make an argument for every single object on a key design issue.” One such issue is social and political commentary. Leanie van der Vyver’s Scary Beautiful, 2021, is a design statement – or is it art? – on cruelty in women’s fashion. Think historical ribcage crushing corsets or neck elongating braces. Leanie worked with shoe designer René van der Berg to create a pair of almost impossibly tall reversed high heels. Despite limiting the wearer’s mobility and controlling her silhouette to the extreme, the shoes are actually wearable. Segueing fashion to design and politics, Leanie asks the viewer to look anew at (not so) everyday apparel and what it represents.

The 120 contributing young thinkers and makers are a savvy and politically astute lot. They are a critical generation not afraid to speak out and are, perhaps, freer of the burden of colonialism. Making Africa doesn’t shy away from the darker side of the continent. South African artist Lucinda Mudge isn’t one to pull punches. Her hard hitting vases display home truths. “I use headlines from local crime story reports,” she says. I Will Kill You And Then I Will Eat You is emblazoned on the side of one of her vases. The other side, slogan free, is beautifully decorated in gold. Violence and beauty. One artist, duality of voice. Nothing is simply black or white. It’s a comment on not looking, on looking the other way. There’s more than one way to view a situation a design, an artwork. And a continent.

Parisian songstress Taali M bursts into song at the preview: “I’m gonna stand on the shoulders of giants…” Amelie informs us, “We have to rethink what design is. Is it art? Is it design? I don’t care! Design and art should be making bold statements about the future. Where do I come from? Where am I going? Who am I? If artists don’t make bold statements, if not them, who? Otherwise we will be stuck where we are. Period. Taali M sings: “Stand tall and rise above it all.”

Amelie keeps going, “Design is more than chairs It’s analogue and dialogue. We must speak about communications, systems, complexity – design is more than just objects. Critical design enhances change as it could or should be in the 21st century.” We agree modernism has gone. What awaits? Existential concerns aside, it’s 25 degrees outside. Hot, distractingly so, even for northern Spain, in late autumn. Where will we go? “Stand tall so tall I’ll be tall,” ends the statuesque Taali M to applause.

The Basque Country is famous for its nationalistic stance, but hosting Making Africa A Continent of Contemporary Design demonstrates its global outlook. The exhibition explores what’s beyond modernism while liberating visitors from Western myopia. Africa. The continent with a vision attached. And we’re back. Late spring 2026. Ruth Asawa Retrospective is the headlining exhibition curated by Thomas Weisel, Chief Curator of San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, in collaboration with Geaninne Gutiérrez-Guimarães, Curator of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. Works include looped wire sculptures, paper folds and sketches by the American artist renowned for making ordinary things special.

The Guggenheim Museum is aging well in physicality and popularity. On a Tuesday morning the public is queuing up the steps for the 10am opening. Victor Hugo was right about the allure of the Basque Country. And that was before Arata, Louise, Norman, Santiago, Zaha and most of all Frank left their mark on the cityscape.

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Michael Manser Associates + Hilton Hotel Heathrow London

So Glad

If Ada Louise Huxtable said you’re good, you’re good. She was the American queen of architectural criticism (died in 2013). The visual counterpart to her literary excellence was Deborah Turbeville the American monarch of the camera (died in 2013). United States creative royalty. “The high priest of High Tech” is how she described Norman Foster (still going strong aged 90) in On Architecture, 2008. The first architecture critic of The New York Times (reigned supreme from 1963 to 1981), Ada was blessed with good looks and a way with words: “The English architect Norman Foster is a master of fine tuned exquisitely honed minimal technology. In his choice of materials and structure he uses, with remarkable eloquence, a fastidious aesthetic that derives from engineering but quietly makes it clear to the viewer (as with the 1991 exhibition rooms of the Royal Academy of Arts in London) that a series of highly intelligent choices has been made.”

Hilton Hotel Heathrow looks like it was designed by Norman Foster. It wasn’t. It’s unknown if Ada critiqued Michael Manser Associates but if she had it may well have been along the lines that they are the high priest acolytes of High Tech. Completed in 1990, the hotel (formerly known as the Sterling) gets a mention in Flying in the Face of Mediocrity, an article scribed by Alan Powers for the 28 February 1991 edition of Country Life. He applauds how the transparency of High Tech architecture recaptures the romance of travel. The hotel gets a mostly positive reception:

“The question of the traveller’s psychology in relation to buildings comes into play with the recently completed Sterling Hotel by Michael Manser Associates, linked to Terminal 4 at Heathrow. The architectural and planning record of Heathrow is not distinguished, and the hotel occupies an awkward pocket of land in the crook of a spur road. Its dazzling whiteness is impressive, and one immediately reads the skewed plan, with a full height atrium between two banks of hotel rooms. The detailing is High Tech rather than the Miesian style associated with this firm. Interesting effects of shadow and light are achieved with the cutaway end façades, but the whiteness is too insistent, and the way the skew is carried through the plan too diagrammatic and unrelieved. The result is that the sitting spaces feel overexposed in a great hotel ‘landschaft’, and one of the major functions of such a building – to calm and reassure the stopover traveller and provide a human scale in relation to journeys of thousands of miles – seems to be lost.”

Over to the architects, “The requirement was for a four star four hundred bedroom hotel on the south side of Heathrow Airport adjacent to Terminal 4. Our client specifically wanted a landmark building on a tight budget. A very clear spatial and organisational brief from the client allowed us to produce an extremely efficient plan where two blocks of bedrooms flanked a large atrium within which were all the public areas. The hotel was designed, built and opened in 27 months, including the planning process. The hotel was the first in the UK planned around a central atrium, was the first to use cement particle board for partitioning and developed an entirely bespoke but economic external cladding system. The huge atrium, with extensive views east and west creates a dramatic effect. The arrival at the hotel certainly sparks a level of theatre and drama not normally seen at airport hotels.”

Moving on, central lounge as airport hangar, a spectacular solid plane to glass expanse ratio, making a virtue out of fire escapes as elegant as Art deco diving pool spiral staircases, the Heathrow Hilton Hotel is a bold statement aging well. That’s the thing about architecture ahead of its time: four decades later it looks contemporary. There’s been a recent atrium refurb by Hirsch Bedner Associates. Associate Director and project lead Matteo Pace states, “All too often airport hotels lack character and imagination, so we were thrilled that Hilton were open to us being creative, allowing us to design a welcoming space that is connected to nature. Located at one of Europe’s busiest airports, the public spaces at the Hilton need to cater to all guests. Be it leisure or corporate visitors, we wanted to create somewhere that they can really enjoy and that enhances their travel experience through inspiring, thoughtful design.” A sculptured chandelier radiating over reception and wooden walls echoing “the undulating British landscapes” are resultant highlights.

What’s it like to stay in these days? Well there’s a catwalk straight from the hotel to Terminal 4 Departures. A Planet Burger (plant based patty, tomato chutney, gem lettuce, smoked Applewood, red onion, pickles, potato bun, plant mayo, fries) in the atrium restaurant is a good distraction from onward destinations. As is the gaggle of gorgeous Emirates airhostesses gathering in reception. The diamond shaped plan means the atrium is sandwiched between two cliffs of sleeping accommodation. A backlit pixelated map of Europe takes the place of meaningless art in each guest room. Crabtree and Evelyn toiletries encircle a Porcelanosa teardrop basin in the en suite bathrooms. A triangular wedge of precious green and blue outdoor space is attached to the rear of the hotel offering fresh produce. Ada Louise Huxtable would approve: to her sustainability was always more than just design.

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Radio Bar + ME Hotel Aldwych London

Norman Architecture

Chilli squid tempura, king prawn tempura and white miso pavlova on the sun kissed roof terrace are the only way to mark the 12th anniversary of Radio Bar. It’s the last Monday before Passiontide but the working week has to start somewhere. In reverse Philip Larkin, the roof terrace is shaped to the comfort of the first to arrive. A joyous shot at how things really are, wide fallen long. At the eastern end of the terrace, the ornate gable of neighbouring Marconi House rises like a curling swirling treble clef carved of stone. Norman Shaw at his most expressive. The western end reaches a crescendo with Suite ME, a legibly lined bass clef in glass. ME Hotel is an architectural duet of contextuality and originality. Giving the musical metaphors a rest, it’s over to Norman Foster to discuss his composition:

“The triangular site of ME Hotel was once the home of the Gaiety Theatre which was damaged in World War II and then demolished to make way for a 1950s office development. Our scheme completes the grand sweep of early 20th century buildings, repairing the urban grain of this crescent. Everything from the shell of the building to bathroom fittings was designed by Foster and Partners. The restoration of Marconi House to accommodate 87 apartments seamlessly integrates with the construction of this 157 bedroom hotel. The hotel building corresponds in height, scale and material to its neighbour. Triangular oriel windows projecting from a Portland stone exterior capture a vista of The Strand while maintaining similar proportions to Marconi House’s fenestration. An elliptical corner tower defines the end point of Aldwych.”

Outdoors and indoors, everything is as monochromatic as a keyboard. The triangle is a complex instrument in the hands of Foster and Partners. Lesser talent would find a wedge shaped plan restrictive. Instead, one of London’s most exhilarating angular interiors forms the heart of the hotel. A tetrahedron ascends in ever decreasing triangles soaring 30 metres from the first floor reception lobby to a glazed apex. Architecture as captured light is taken to a new level. White marble lines the inside of the pyramid; corridors lean against the black marbled outer skin.

The glazed apex pops up as a petite pyramid in the middle of Radio Bar: a transparent splayed metronome. Distant views are of trophy towers, all with sobriquets in honour of their outlines, reaching for the sky in contrapuntal consonance. The Gherkin, Cheesegrater, Shard, Walkie Talkie … A joyous shot at how things really are, wide fallen high. Intermediate views are of the quad of Somerset House. Close views are of the glasshouses and skylights and chimneypots in the valleys between double pitched roofs, hidden from street level by parapets. There’s nothing new under the sun, but there’s plenty to wax lyrical about Radio Bar.