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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses People

Lavender’s Blue + Castle Ffrench Ballinamore Bridge Galway

Fortissimo 

Castle Ffrench County Galway

Anglicisation from Irish Gaelic is to blame in some instances (The Argory née Ard Garraidhe meaning “The Hill of the Garden” is a case in point) but quite a few Irish country houses have intriguing names. Jockey Hall and Shandy Hall (the latter to be found in Dripsey) sound fun. Whiskey Hall sounds like too much fun. Bachelors Lodge and Hymenstown are presumably kilometres apart. Mount Anne or Mount Stewart anyone? The mildly unnerving Flood Hall, Fort Etna, Spiddal Hall and The Reeks. Is Sherlockstown worth investigating? Zoomorphic zaniness: Fox Hall, Lizard Manor, Lyons, Mount Panther and Roebuck Hall. Elphin Castle (sounds like the London area of Elephant and Castle after a few shandies or whiskeys). Place names too. Bungalo begs the question: is it full of single storey residences?

Castle Ffrench County GalwayLots of houses without so much as a battlement are called castles: Beltrim Castle, Castle Coole, Castle Grove, Castle Leslie. Castle Ffrench in Ballinamore Bridge, County Galway, joins this list although there are romantic ruins of a towerhouse on the estate. The double consonant doesn’t disguise the fact the name originated somewhat unsurprisingly in France. The Ffrench family were part of a Norman landing in County Wexford in 1169. In time, they became one of the 14 Tribes of Galway. Their single consonant cousins owned French Park in Frenchpark, County Roscommon.

Castle Ffrench is a star of Maurice Craig’s seminal work Classic Irish Houses of the Middle Size (1976). He notes its plan is virtually identical to Bonnettstown’s outside Kilkenny City, County Kilkenny, despite the 145 kilometre 40 year gap. A notable feature of both pretty Big Houses is the pair of staircases side by side, like slightly asymmetric Siamese twins. A thin wall between the pair once segregated the classes’ ascent and descent (for richer, for poorer). One is dressed in plasterwork; the other bare. Landings pressed against the four bay courtyard facing rear elevation provide intriguing mid storey variations in window positions. Both stairwells are lit by tall fanlight topped windows identical on the outside – only the family one has internal panelled shutters.

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Castle Ffrench GalwayCastle Ffrench rises above an unruffled patchwork quilt, a landscape of interlocking greens, quieter than Pimlico Tube Station on a Friday evening (are Pimlocals like Peter York too posh to push onto public transport?). So silent. Within the vale beyond The Pale. A two kilometre avenue and ample hectarage keep the populace at bay. Augustine days of yore aren’t so distant … indoors, there’s a hooley! The plasterwork at any rate. The stuccodores’ genius charges towards zenithsphere in the entrance hall and landing (of the family staircase). Neoclassicism and Rococo blend and blur in mesmerising jigs and reels of fables and foliage ribboned round Irish harps and French horns. Wreathes and sheaves and sickles, the whole shebang.

Lady Fifi Ffrench (such stutteringly fitting phonetics) and her husband John were the last of the original family to reside at Castle Ffrench, departing in the mid 20th century. Sheila and Bill Bagliani, the current owners, have sensitively restored this knockout property, carefully preserving its patina of age. Gaultier Lodge, their wonderful bed and breakfast in Woodstown, County Waterford, is also a period property. Bertie the Labrador and Sally the Westie run amok through the grounds of Castle Ffrench. Sheila, a talented artist, has a top floor studio. All stairs lead to a second floor central corridor spanning the full length of the house. This corridor might not have the ornate plasterwork of the spaces below but it’s very much defined by a series of blind and open arches resembling abstract vaulting. A forerunner to Sir John Soane’s streamlined style. There are flowers and canvases and a ghost in the attic – a previous owner refuses to leave and who could blame her?

Castle Ffrench GalwayThat visit was so long ago, back in 2014. Castle Ffrench is currently for sale. All 16 hectares, eight paddocks, 16 stables, three and a half reception rooms, nine bedrooms, seven bathrooms and the barrel vaulted basement for €1,000,000. As to be expected the drawing room (5.96 metres by 8.15 metres) and dining room (7.29 metres by 5.64 metres) are the largest internal spaces. Castle Ffrench ticks all the boxes: a boxy beauty, a rural idyll, a great name. Caisleán Ffrench.Castle Ffrench Galway

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Architecture Art Country Houses

Mount Congreve House + Garden Kilmeaden Waterford + Ambrose Congreve

What a Fad

We visited Mount Congreve on a very sunny spring day in 2014 while staying nearby at Gaultier Lodge in Woodstown, County Waterford. The exterior of the house and the gardens were pristine, glistening in fact, but the interior was closed. Not any more. While the priceless collection of art and antiques is now history, the main rooms opened as a visitor centre in 2022. A café is now in the stables. Even more excitingly, visitors don’t have to go home: there is overnight accommodation in forest eco cabins and four gatelodges called Acorn, Damson, Oak and Rowan. Revisit overdue!

First it was Farmleigh, then Lissadell, next it was Mount Congreve. Historic Irish houses lived in by the original families with intact interiors and gardens that could have been saved in their entirety for the nation. The Guinnesses’ former Dublin home Farmleigh was eventually purchased by the Government after its contents had been sold. Lissadell in County Sligo, once the home of Countess Markievicz who helped establish the Republic of Ireland, was sold on the open market and its contents auctioned despite the Gore-Booth family offering it to the State. At Mount Congreve, it is the gardens that have been saved. The last owner, Ambrose Congreve, struck a deal with the former Taoiseach Charlie Haughey that in return for tax exemption during his lifetime, the gardens would be left to the people of Ireland. The house is still there, stripped naked of its phenomenal collection of furniture and art, still surrounded by one of the finest gardens in the country, if not the world.

It took just one day in London in May 2012 and two days in London in July 2012 for Christie’s and Mealy’s to auction the entire contents. At the time, George Mealy explained, “There are lacquered screens and vases from Imperial China, rare books, Georgian silver, vintage wines, chandeliers and gilt mirrors and enough antique furniture to fill a palace. Everything is on offer. It’s a complete clearance of the entire estate. He did his art shopping in London. He got most of it through London because he had spotters for items that he might be interested in. Mr Congreve loved collecting. He loved nice things and he had unbelievable taste.” Chinoiserie takes on Versailles.

Andrew Waters, Head of Private Collections at Christie’s, writes in the auction catalogue, “Mount Congreve stands in a splendid position above the River Suir, not far from the city of Waterford in the southeast corner of Ireland. The name is internationally known today for the astonishing gardens among the greatest in the world … Much less well known than the garden, indeed largely unknown, is the magnificent collection of decorative arts in the house that was formed concurrently with the garden. The neoclassical house was built circa 1760 for the Congreve family by the leading architect John Roberts. From the mid 1960s the house was restored with the addition of a deep bow with a baroque doorcase on the entrance front. This created some magnificent additional spaces in the house for the growing collection. Among them was the Chinese wallpapered drawing room, the elegant setting for much of the superb French furniture in both sales.

“The furniture collection was begun in 1942 and was still being added to in the early 21st century. Although a taste for French furniture was to be a constant theme during the formation of the collection, full advantage was taken of the dispersal sales after 1945 of English furniture from great country houses,” continues Andrew. Robert Adam pieces from Croome Court in Worcestershire are some of the highlights.

Jim Hayes, former Industrial Development Agency Director, records a visit to Mount Congreve in his autobiography The Road from Harbour Hill, “We were received on arrival by Geraldine Critchley, the social secretary and long term assistant of Ambrose Congreve. The ornate hall was decked with a number of gloves, walking canes and a variety of riding accessories. We were escorted into a large drawing room, the walls of which were covered in 18th century, hand-painted, Chinese wallpaper. Three large Alsatian dogs lay asleep in the corner of the room. A liveried servant then appeared with a silver tray and teapot and antique bone china cups and saucers. This young man, of Indian origin, was one of the last few remaining liveried servants of Ireland’s great houses.” Sheila Bagliani, doyenne of Gaultier Lodge, recalls, “Gus, Ambrose’s Alsatian, had full run of the house.”

Ambrose was in London rather aptly for the Chelsea Flower Show when he died in 2011, aged 104. He had no children so eight generations of his family’s enhancement of Waterford came to a close. Geraldine Critchley, who was actually his partner, survives him. The son of Major John Congreve and Lady Irène Congreve, daughter of the 8th Earl of Bessborough, Ambrose inherited Mount Congreve in 1968 and restored and redecorated and revived it to within a square centimetre of its being. The good life took off, on a whole new level. Ambrose divided his time between Mount Congreve and his townhouse in Belgravia. He employed a succession of fine chefs de cuisine including Albert Roux who went on to co found Le Gavroche restaurant.

Now for some stats of the 45 hectares estate: 28 hectares of woodland; 1.6 hectares of walled gardens; 26 kilometres of paths; 3,000 rhododendrons; 1,500 plants; 600 camelias; 600 conifers; 300 magnolias; 250 climbers. All piled high on the south bank of the River Suir. The manicured gardens end abruptly next to open fields, like a beautiful face half made up. Sheila Bagliani remembers, “Piped music in the grounds kept the 25 gardeners entertained while working. Ambrose also employed The Queen Mother’s former chauffeur.” Lot Number 492 at the auction in Mount Congreve was his 1969 shell grey Rolls Royce Phantom V1, price guide €12,000 to €18,000. It sold for €55,000. At his 100th birthday lunch, Ambrose Congreve declared, “To be happy for an hour, have a glass of wine. To be happy for a day, read a book. To be happy for a week, take a wife. To be happy forever, make a garden.” His garden lives on in perpetuity, making plenty of people happy.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Luxury People

The Baglianis + Gaultier Lodge Woodstown Waterford

Townland and Country

Bastardstown, Cheekpoint, Mooncoin, Passenger East, Priesthaggard … Names, names, such memorable names. Say them with a cut glass accent. Only in Waterford, the civilised southeast coast of Ireland. Geography is close, history closer. Everything is near water, everyone remembers generations past. Land of Molly Keane. Nowhere is more horse and hounds than Gaultier Lodge (pronounced “Gol-teer”) thanks to its country pursuits loving owners, Sheila and Bill Bagliani. Animal motifs abound, on potpourri sachets, coasters, wallpaper friezes, upholstery, saltshakers, pepper grinders, paintings (there’s an artist in residence – Sheila), even wine glasses. “We’re a bit obsessional!” jokes Sheila.

Gaultier Lodge may have been referred to in Victorian times as “Gaultier Cottage” but don’t be misled by its reticent exterior. This is a sophisticated design befitting its former status as a hunting lodge of the Earl of Huntingdon. Four rooms span the original beach front, linked by a tripartite gallery along the entrance front. The middle two rooms are deeper with more ornate mantelpieces and cornices. Now the drawing room and dining room, they are interconnected by a vast pair of panelled doors. In the middle of the gallery is a square vestibule with symmetrical openings. Twin sets of doors include a false door for visual harmony. A guest bedroom bookends either extremity of the beach front.

The hand of a master is at work. His name is John Roberts, the architect who designed much of 18th century Waterford City and worked on Curraghmore, the Marquess and Marchioness of Waterford’s stately home. Never has a piano nobile been more appropriate. The raised ground floor provides breathtaking views across Woodstown’s unspoiled golden strand to a Knights Templar church on the opposite side of the Waterford Channel. “Thank goodness low tide goes out 2.5 kilometres,” says Sheila. “Otherwise we’d be as developed as Tramore.”

In the early 1900s a two bay bedroom wing was added – no country house, however miniature, should be without one. And a porch. “We’ve done our best to dress up the plain porch,” she continues, “with pillars and sash windows.” A pleasant colonial appearance is the result. The coastline was damaged by the Lisbon Tsunami of 1755. Gaultier Lodge was built four decades later. A photo dated 1870 shows the retaining wall along the beach part concealing the lower ground floor. “A storm has since washed away the mound of rabbit burrows against the wall. In 2013, last winter, another storm flattened our greenhouse and blew 100 slates off the roof.” There’s a price to be paid for the beauty of proximity to nature. Not that it’s apparent, on a long spring evening sipping wine on the lawn watching the remains of the day.“Historic houses are like horses,” declares Sheila. “They’re expensive to run!” That hasn’t stopped the Baglianis buying another one on the opposite side of Ireland. “Castle ffrench was the home of Percy French. Maurice Craig compares it to Bonnettstown in his book Classic Irish Houses of the Middling Sizes. All the original furniture was sold but we’ve bought suitable pieces, many from the US.” Sheila and Bill also own a stud in North Carolina, suitably called Castle French Farm.

The fire roars. Frequently read books on the country and houses and country houses and country house owners and lovers of country houses and country house owners’ lovers pile high on occasional tables. “When I used to go to Mount Juliet, it was just like the famous Colman’s Mustard advert, where the butler is sent back from the hunt to get mustard for a guest’s sandwich. The butler really did cater to every whim,” recalls Sheila. Bats noiselessly swoop in eternal graceless circles across the lawn while inside dinner is attentively served. Red onion and goat’s cheese tart is followed by monkfish with salad on the side, an American touch. The hallmark of Gaultier Lodge cooking is fresh country produce, layered with taste, such as the carrots soaked in butter and citrus. Gin and tonic sorbet – what’s not to love? Pudding is Italian carrot cake “baked with ground almond instead of flour to make it lighter”.

Woodstown has always been famed for its decadent high end hospitality. In 1967 newly widowed Jackie Kennedy and her children Caroline and John stayed at nearby Woodstown House. The Daily Herald breathlessly reported, “Woodstown House, about seven miles from Waterford City, where the Kennedys will stay during their visit is one of the most beautiful residences in the area, known for its gracious mansions … Mrs Kennedy will occupy the main bedroom which is toned in a predominantly dark blue colour.”

It keeps going, “The Woodstown area itself probably carries the greatest concentration of Anglo Irish blue bloods in the country and the social whirl runs at a pretty fast pace. Among her neighbours in the county will be the Duke of Devonshire who owns Lismore Castle and the Marquess of Waterford who lives at Portlaw.” Another temporary resident in the 1960s was Jack Profumo who decided to lie low at Ballyglan, his brother’s house across the road from Gaultier Lodge. Names, names, such memorable names.