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SABBATH PLUS ONE Church of the Holy Sepulchre Jerusalem + Queen Helena

Heir of All Things

“They brought Jesus to the place called Golgotha (which means ‘the Place of the Skull’).” John 19:17

That palimpsest of architectural taste, a panoply of passion, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre marks “the unexpected … unforgettable” (Pierre Loti, La Galilée, 1895) spot. Or at least one of the spots identified as the place where Christ was crucified. It’s the most ecumenical building imaginable, shared by a cluster of Christian denominations: Armenian Apostolic; Catholic; Coptic; and Ethiopian, Greek and Syriac Orthodox. Priests and their acolytes competitively stride round, swinging incense, ringing bells and chanting loudly. Emperor Constantine the Great built the founding church in the 4th century to commemorate his conversion to Christianity. “The most magnificent of his monuments,” claim Teddy Kellek and Moshe Pearlman in Jerusalem Sacred City of Mankind (1968).

Emperor Constantine’s mother Queen Helena had identified the site based on the discovery of the remains of three crosses and a nearby tomb known as ‘Anastasis’ (Greek for resurrection). “Just the place for a basilica,” Evelyn Waugh imagines she would say in his historical novel of 1950, Helena. Adrian Wolff summarises Her Majesty’s achievements in Israel: A Chronology (2004), “327 AD Queen Helena (St Helena), a devout Christian, travels to Palestina, identifying original Christian Holy Sites connected with Jesus, constructing Byzantine style churches on these sites.” Todd Fink (Jerusalem and Central Israel, 2021) expands on Queen Helena’s oeuvre, “She helped establish the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, the Church of the Ascension on the Mount of Olives (currently known as the Pater Noster Church), the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.” Reverend Andy Rider (Life is For Giving, 2018) adds, “God’s presence is thicker in ancient churches through hundreds of years of prayers. Step into it!”

William Thackeray gasps in Notes on a Journey from Cornhill to Grand Cairo (2017), “The situation of the tomb (into which, be it authentic or not, no man can enter without a shock of breathless fear, and deep and awful self humiliation) must have struck all travellers.” Through the centuries, battling the pedagogy of the unpredictable, the church was destroyed, rebuilt, set on fire, hit by an earthquake and finally restored by King Abdullah II of Jordan. The Rock of Calvary is encased in glass: a divine vitrine. Private tour guide Ibrahim Ghazzawi suggests, “The crosses would likely have been wedged into cracks in the rock.” There are three domes; Orthodox Christians believe church domes represent heaven’s vaults. Philip Larkin’s poem Church Going (The Less Deceived, 1955) contains the line “A serious house on serious earth”. It is what it was.

Daphne du Maurier (Not After Midnight and Other Stories, 1971) describes a tour guide’s experience: “On, on, ever upwards, ever climbing, the dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre rearing above him … the Church of the Holy Sepulchre enveloped him. He was aware of darkness, scaffolding, steps, the smell of many bodies and much incense.” The church contains the final five Stations of the Cross. The earlier nine Stations line Via Dolorosa. “‘The royal banners forward go, the cross shines forth in mystic glow,’” quotes The Right Reverend Rowan Williams in God With Us: The Meaning of the Cross and Resurrection, Then and Now (2017). “To sing that hymn for the first time each successive year is for many of us the real beginning of the Passion season.”

Andre Moubarak’s 2017 guide One Friday in Jerusalem sets out the importance of Via Dolorosa, “On a narrow street only 2,000 feet long in Old Jerusalem, the storey of redemptive history drew to its agonising glorious climax. Maronites served as the first tour guides of the Holy Land for visiting Europeans – first the Crusaders, then pilgrims.”

Centre for Action and Contemplation teacher Cynthia Bourgeault believes, “The Passion is really the mystery of all mysteries, the heart of the Christian faith experience. By the word ‘Passion’ we mean the events which end Jesus’s earthly life: His betrayal, trial, execution on a cross, and death.” Reverend Jennie Hogan recommends, “Christ makes the way for us.”

Reverend Robert Willis details in The Architectural History of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem (1849), “The Church in its general plan may be described as a Romanesque cruciform structure, having a circular nave to the West, a north and stransept, and a short Eastern limb or choir terminated by an apse. An aisle runs through the circular nave, on three of its sides. Also there is an aisle at the end of each transept, and on the east and west sides of each transept; and an aisle passes around the apse, and has chapels radiating from it, in the usual manner.” Henry Van Dyke (Out-of-Doors in the Holy Land: Impressions of Travel in Body and Spirit, 1908) mentions its “dim and shadowy” interior. Borrowing from Joseph Roth’s The Wandering Jews (1927), “Candles burn now for all the dead. Other candles are lit for the living.”

Simon Goldhill notes in Jerusalem City of Longing (2008), “The first shock to anyone used to the great cathedrals of Europe such as Chartres or Notre Dame, or ever to the vast institution of the Vatican, is just how hard it is to find the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.” This unresolved siting is matched only by the architecture: what the aforementioned author calls “the irredeemable confusion of the church itself”. George Knight (The Holy Land Handbook, 2011) considers it “gangly and unplanned”.

“When they came to the place called the Skull, they crucified Him there, along with the criminals – one on His right, the other on His left.” Luke 23:33

(Extract with alternative imagery from the bestseller SABBATH PLUS ONE Jerusalem and Tel Aviv).

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SABBATH PLUS ONE Jerusalem +

Under the Eucalyptus Tree

“Daughters of Jerusalem, I charge you by the gazelles and by the does of the field: Do not arouse or awaken love until it so desires.” Song of Songs 2:7

We’re on a mission so of course it makes sense crossing the Holy Rubicon to reach the place of Christ’s salvific crucifixion, resurrection and ascension. “We are the people of the resurrection!” beams Reverend Andy Rider, Area Dean of Tower Hamlets London. “We are Easter people!” During the post Paschal season, one can almost hear the soaring descant of Regina Coeli from Pietro Mascagni’s Cavalleria Rusticana. Benjamin Disraeli (Disraeli: A Biography, 1993) believed, “The view of Jerusalem is the history of the world; it is more; it is the history of heaven and earth.” Simon Sebag Montefiore (Jerusalem: The Biography, 2012) concurs, “The history of Jerusalem is the history of the world, but it is also the chronicle of an often penurious provincial town amid the Judean Hills. Jerusalem was once regarded as the centre of the world and today that is more true than ever.” Israel’s first Prime Minister David Ben-Gurion (A State at Any Cost: The Life of David Ben-Gurion, 2019) named it the “Eternal Capital”. Teddy Kollek (Mayor and the Citadel: Teddy Kollek and Jerusalem, 1987), Mayor of Jerusalem in the late 20th century, leads with, “Jerusalem has always projected a metaphysical image.” The ancient Babylonian Talmud (circa 500) gets it: “He who has not seen Jerusalem in her splendour has never seen a desirable city in his life.” In Natural History (77) Pliny the Elder exalts Jerusalem to be “… by far the most famous city of the East and not of Judea only”.

Katharina Galor and Hanswulf Bloedhorn open The Archaeology of Jerusalem: From the Origins to the Ottomans (2014) with, “Jerusalem first appears in the written sources as a Canaanite city at the beginning of the second millennium BC.” Moshe Safdie observes in Jerusalem: The Future of the Past (1989), “Jerusalem the Golden is the Jerusalem of yellow-gold limestone.” Henry Van Dyke (Out-of-Doors in the Holy Land, 1908) calls it “a metropolis of infinite human hopes and longings and devotions”. We’re reminded of the words of Paula Fredriksen (When Christians Were Jews: The First Generation, 2018), “It [Jerusalem] was probably the most beautiful city that any of them [Jesus and His followers] had ever seen.” They resonate with Stewart Perone (Jerusalem and Bethlehem, 1965), “Its beauty is bewildering, the accumulated treasure of more than three millennia.” Celestial and terrestrial, natural and supernatural, sacred and secular, universal and personal, Jerusalem is truly the interface of heaven and earth. Jerusalem, the intersection between the then, the now and the not yet. Jerusalem in all your treasured totemic totality, lift up your gates and sing! Rivers clap your hands! Daphne du Maurier writes in her short story The Way of the Cross (1973), “The lights were burning bright in the city of Jerusalem.” They continue to burn bright. Our pilgrimage gathers pace. To repeat the title of singer songwriter Amy Grant’s modern day song of ascents, it’s Better than a Hallelujah.

“And everyone who calls on the name of the Lord will be saved; for on Mount Zion and in Jerusalem there will be deliverance, as the Lord has said, even among the survivors whom the Lord calls.” Joel 2:32

(Extract with alternative imagery from the bestseller SABBATH PLUS ONE Jerusalem and Tel Aviv).

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Architects Architecture Art People Town Houses

The Cathedral + Metropolitical Church of Christ at Canterbury Kent

All That is Good

The Reverend Andy Rider is Stepney Dean of Mission and Area Dean of Tower Hamlets. He is also Chaplain at Langley House Trust, a charity that helps ex offenders. Previously, Andy was Rector of Christ Church Spitalfields for 17 years. It is one of East London’s most prominent places of worship. During his time at Christ Church, in between priestly duties, he oversaw the revivification of the historic ecclesiastical property portfolio of the parish. In particular, the Grade I listed crypt was given a new lease of life as a café, community and church space. For the first time in its history, every cubic metre of Nicholas Hawksmoor’s architectural masterpiece was put to active use. Not to mention airspace: the church band has been known to play on the roof of the nave. Reverend Rider is also a published writer of books on Christian living. So who better to talk to about Canterbury?

“What makes Canterbury special to the Anglican Church? Well, it has been the home of the Archbishop for years,” he confirms. “His leadership of not just the Church of England but also the Anglican Communion ensures that Canterbury is in the heart and prayers of pretty much every Anglican believer. Although we are seeing a rise in pilgrimage, Canterbury is probably for most a virtual pilgrimage from time to time. It was key to the spread of the Gospel north through Great Britain, meeting the Celtic Christians who were bringing the Gospel south from such places as Iona and Lindisfarne.”

The earliest remnants in Canterbury of this ancient advancement of Christianity are found at St Augustine’s Abbey, just beyond the city walls. “Augustine… built a monastery not far from the city to the eastward, in which, by his advice, Ethelbert erected from the foundation the church of the blessed Apostles, Peter and Paul, and enriched it with divers [sic] gifts; wherein the bodies of the same Augustine, and of all of the Bishops of Canterbury, and of the Kings of Kent, might be buried.” So records The Venerable Bede circa 730.

Augustine was a Benedictine monk who became the first Archbishop of Canterbury in 597. His mission to convert the Kentish King Ethelbert to Christianity was immediately successful (the Frankish Queen Bertha was already a Christian). The royal couple provided land for the abbey which would become a centre of spiritual and cultural activity for almost a millennium. That is, until the dissolution of the monasteries under King Henry VIII. St Augustine’s was dissolved in 1538 and transformed into a palace. Anne of Cleves, Henry’s fourth wife, stayed one night on her way from Deal to London. In a gorgeous story arc, the site would later become a missionary college for 99 years, opening in 1848. Acclaimed Gothic Revival architect William Butterworth built the split flint faced and red roofed St Augustine’s College amidst the ruins. A freestone library was erected over the abbot’s hall foundations. The King’s School now occupies the intact buildings.

If Kent is the Garden of England, Canterbury is the Temple. The walled city and its environs really don’t disappoint. Charles Dickens was a fan. The former Old King’s School Shop, dated 1647, a teetering tiered tower of architectural Jenga jettying over Palace Street commemorates the writer with an 1849 quote across its façade, “… a very old house bulging out over the road… leaning forward, trying to see who was passing on the narrow pavement below…” The Chaucer Bookshop on Beer Cart Lane is called after the most famous Canterbury literary connection. Street names – The Dane John Mound, Orange Street, Lady Wootton’s Green – suggest intriguing times of old.

The tight urban fabric of the city knits so tightly round the cathedral that it can only be entered through the Precincts which in turn can only be entered via four gates: Christ Church, Mint Yard, Postern and Quenin. Stretching the material metaphor, the cathedral itself is a multilayered multicoloured multitextured fabric of utter fabulousness. Benedictine cloisters; Romanesque crypts; Perpendicular nave; Gothic quire; Middle Age pulpitum crossing; Arts and Crafts stained glass; even a 12th century martyrdom: Canterbury Cathedral has it all. Statues of The Queen and Prince Philip are incorporated into the west front. But the best statue award must go to the tomb of Edward Plantagenet the Black Prince who died in 1376. The Prince’s canine companion is immortalised in marble, resting at his master’s feet.

The grandest house in the Cathedral Precincts is, predictably, the Archbishop’s Palace. Archbishop Lanfranc built a large palace to the northwest of the cathedral in circa 1086 which was remodelled throughout medieval times. Archbishops of Canterbury ignored this residence until Archbishop Frederick Temple’s succession in 1896. He sold the Archbishop’s Palace in Addington, Surrey, and ordered the rebuilding of a palace on the historic Canterbury site. William Douglas Caröe, a prolific designer of churches, was commissioned. The architect’s T shaped knapped flint and random stone dressed with Bath stone building is summed up in John Newman’s Pevsner Guide to Northeast and East Kent, 2013, “scrupulously retained medieval features woven into a rambling, fancifully detailed Free Tudor mansion completed in 1901.”

And so to the Mother Church of the Worldwide Anglican Communion and Seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury on the 15th Sunday after Trinity. The organ thunders with visceral fervour while five clergy take their seats around the Anglican Communion table. The Dean, The Very Reverend Dr Robert Willis, welcomes the congregation to the service which is The Oratory Mass set by Matthew Martin. The north side of the girls’ choir sings The Motet, a 14th century Eucharistic hymn set to music by Edward Elgar. Their angelic voices reverberate across the nave and down the centuries. Prayers are offered up for the Apostolic Church of South Sudan, Archbishop Justin, Bishop Tim of Lambeth and Bishop Rose of Dover.

It’s the last warm day of summer and soft sun streams across the hard stone floor. Pure fragrant blended incense fills the atmosphere. Vice Dean, The Reverend Andrew Dodd, preaches on the parable of the vineyard labourers’ wages and Jonah’s grumbling at God changing His mind. Unfairness is the theme. He reflects on the American Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg who recently died. “She was an unlikely hero. ‘RBG’ as she was known as confronted discrimination and injustice in an extremely sensitive climate.” The Vice Dean concludes, “In God’s economy everyone is of immeasurable divine value.” The service ends with the Dismissal and the congregation pour out into a blaze of sunshine.

Andy’s spiritual journey began a long way from Canterbury or even East London. “I was sent to church as a child by non church going parents. The local church had a serious Sunday school, which I left at about age 12 when I fell out with the leader. Seven years later and having had a few scrapes with the law, gaining a criminal record, I met a couple of Christians who spoke to me about forgiveness and God’s will for our lives. This, along with my work with mentally disabled folks got me asking all sorts of questions about life and humanity. Then, playing music in a band with a Christian I began to see who God might be and who He might want me to be. So one night on an overnight bus to Blackpool on the way to some massage training – I wanted to be an osteopath – I gave my life to Jesus in Digbeth Bus Station.”

“I was ordained in 1990,” Andy relates. His first Curacy brought him south to Chatham in Kent. “I next led the All Souls Clubhouse church and community centre in London’s West End for a decade. The Bishop of London then asked me to consider the Spitalfields post. He said it needed a ‘big man’ to do the job… I sensed God’s call in his invitation and without seeing inside the church building or rectory, I accepted the post in 2003.” Under Andy’s leadership, the congregation greatly grew exponentially in numbers and strength. Ministry in the community is especially important at Christ Church: looking upwards and looking outwards.

“My new role,” Andy explains, “as Dean of Mission is principally helping churches to explore and step further into church health, growth and mission. Working with the Bishop of Stepney across three London Boroughs and some 60 churches, we need to halt the decline in Church of England attendance and – to quote a song lyric – ‘Turn this ship around’! This needs strategy, structural changes, leadership development and a new hunger across the church.” The Reverend Rider gives personal advice in his 2018 book Life is For Giving: “Your current reality will shape you for whatever is next – because God meets us where we are and wastes nothing. Your task is to read and explore your present reality, and so to see it as God sees it.”

Turn of last century author Frank William Boreham wrote over 40 books on Christianity with charming titles such as A Bunch of Everlastings, A Handful of Stars, Mountains in the Mist, Shadows on the Wall, Wisps of Wildfire. In 1948 he published My Pilgrimage An Autobiography. The author includes his testimony: “Only once in the history of this little world did a man, crucified at 33, find that He had brought His tremendous life work to absolute perfection. ‘It is finished!’ He cried. No broken column marks His sepulchre. And yet even He spoke frequently of the sublime tasks that awaited Him in the world to which He journeyed. Other people may do as they will; but, for myself, I am going to rest all my insufficiency and inefficiency on His finished and perfect Saviourhood leaving Him to complete my incompleteness in the world in which He reigns supreme.”

In his autobiography he recalls his mother telling him about her first visit as a teenager to Canterbury Cathedral. Frank’s mother arranged to go with her cousin but she didn’t turn up. An elderly gentleman approached her: “Excuse me but whilst I was chatting with the friend who has just left me, I could not help noticing that you were eagerly watching for somebody who, evidently, has not arrived. Were you thinking of inspecting the Cathedral? I wonder if you would very kindly allow me to show you round. I am deeply attached to the place and happen to know something of its story.”

Frank’s mother acquiesced and was soon taken by the stranger’s silver tongued eloquence. The teenager was treated to an exhaustive tour of the cathedral and its history, travelling back in time from Huguenot refugees to Geoffrey Chaucer to St Thomas Becket and ending with St Augustine. Or should that be beginning? As the tour drew to a close, the stranger said, “It would be very interesting to me if we might exchange cards.” Frank’s mother didn’t have one but she accepted the stranger’s card without a second glance or first for that matter. Only on the train home to Tunbridge Wells did she look at it. The card read “Charles Dickens”.

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Prince Charles + Christ Church Spitalfields Crypt London

By Royal Appointment

Christ Church Spitalfields Weathervane © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“10 minutes.” Frisson of anticipation. High flying MD Sara Nilsson DeHanas rocks up off the red eye Eurostar, suitcase in tow. Johannesburg this evening but in the meantime there’s a rendez vous with a Crown Prince to be had. Salut! Some meetings are unmissable. Reverend Andy Rider reminds us we’re in a place built to worship the King of Kings. “And a future king is on his way.” Phew, no pressure then. A chauffeur drops off the Lord Lieutenant of London. Police are everywhere. The eight bells are chiming. A choir gathers on the steps of the church. This is big.

Christ Church Spitalfields Crypt Entrance © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“Five minutes.” Excitement mounts. Stewart Grimshaw of The Monument Trust, benefactor of Christ Church Spitalfields Crypt, is at hand, impressed by the finished restoration and conversion to additional church space, community use and café. “It’s wonderful The Wallace Collection is free for visitors,” he says of another Monument Trust funded project. Artist Emily Wolfe arrives. She painted a window scene, cleverly elongating the staircase landing of the Crypt with an imaginary vista. “It was a great commission.” Another artist arrives. Nikki Cass admires her own stained glass in the chapel. “I’m so pleased how well the light falls on it.” Totes agree.

Christ Church Spitalfields Crypt Prayer Chapel © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Christ Church Spitalfields Crypt Emily Wolfe Artist © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Sara Nilsson DeHanas @ Christ Church © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“Two minutes. The Prince wants a tea. Earl Grey with honey.” Flurry of activity. Cups and saucers all round and quickly. Then in walks someone familiar. Do we know him? Is he family? Yes, Royal Family. Here’s a man, sorry, prince, comfortable in his own skin. He makes a beeline for us, recognising the fleur de Lys tie. “Very tactful,” he smiles. Gazing round: “The oak is simply sublime. Wonderful. What’s that?” pointing to a tiny hatch door in the apse wall. “Is that for Harry Potter to walk through?” He’s great company, witty, warm and relaxing. Little wonder Prince Harry is good fun. Like father…

Lord Lieutenant of London & Bishop of London @ Christ Church © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Architect Biba Dow is given a two minute slot to explain a decade’s worth of work. Time is precious. Even past retirement age, the Prince is clearly in high demand. Andy makes a speech. We hear the bit about the Crypt not being possible without architects and planners being in the congregation. And his thanks to The Monument Trust. And thanks to Prince Charles. The Bishop of London prays majestically. Everything is dreamlike. Minutes last for hours.

Prince Charles & Bodyguard © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Time for His Royal Highness to unveil the plaque we’ve had a hand in designing. “This Crypt will allow many more activities to be performed at Christ Church, serving the community… It’s been at least 10 years since I’ve been to Christ Church. The Crypt looks like the best place to eat in London!” Plaque revealed. Applause. The private secretary beckons. His press officer calls. The black Jaguar pulls up at the bottom of the steps of the church. Prince Charles declines, instead strolling down Commercial Street with his bodyguard. Clarence House can wait.

Rev Andy Rider & Prince Charles © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Architecture People

St Patrick’s Memorial Church Saul Down + Henry Seaver

Saints and Scholars

St Patrick's Church Saul Grounds © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Saul Church, also known as St Patrick’s Memorial Church, commemorates the Patron Saint of Ireland. It is built on the reputed spot of his first sermon and subsequent church in the country. When he came to Ireland in 432 AD, strong currents swept his boat along the southern tidal narrows of Strangford Lough. He landed off the River Slaney a couple of miles from Saul. Dichu, the local chieftain, converted to Christianity and gave him a barn or sabhal (pronounced ‘saul’ in Gaelic) for holding services. St Patrick famously used a shamrock from the fertile Saul soil to explain the Holy Trinity. He died in Saul 29 years after landing in Ireland and is buried in nearby Downpatrick.

St Patrick's Church Saul Downpatrick © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Patrick’s Jordanstown designed by William Lynn in the 1860s is the first Northern Irish church to embrace the Celtic revival with aplomb. Saul Church designed by Henry Seaver in the 1930s is the last. Both have a round tower. Henry was a prolific architect who designed many red brick bay windowed villas in the Deramore area of MaloneBelfast. He was also architect of St John’s Church on Malone Road. His brother was rector. St John’s is conventionally gothic. Saul is more Romanesque with its semicircular arched windows.

St Patrick's Church Saul Avenue © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Patrick's Church Saul Entrance © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Patrick's Church Saul © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Patrick's Church Saul Grotto © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Patrick's Church Saul View © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Patrick's Church Saul Cemetery © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Patrick's Church Saul Tombstone © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

When the Anglo Irish singer Chris de Burgh penned the words to “In a Country Churchyard” he might have had Saul Church in mind. It couldn’t be any more romantic in both senses of the word. A yew lined avenue leads to this tiny place of worship, spick and span, in contrast to the wild garden around the gravestones and remains of St Patrick’s Abbey. Its hilltop setting allows unbroken views across the rolling countryside of County Down. Unsurprisingly the church is popular for weddings led by members of the clergy from far and wide, including the Reverend Andy Rider of Christ Church Spitalfields. A dedication from St Patrick,

St Patrick's Church Saul Organ © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“Go forth, traveller | In the Name which is above every name | Be of good courage | Hold fast that which is good | Render to no man evil for evil | Strengthen the faint hearted | Support the weak | Help the afflicted | Honour all men | Love and serve the Lord | Rejoicing in the power of the Holy Spirit. And may the blessing of the Eternal God, the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit, be upon you in your going out and your coming in.”

St Patrick's Church Saul Memorial © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley