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Oranmore House + Garden Ballymena Antrim

Good Natured

Oranmore House Garden Northenr Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Of course, the drawing room mantelpiece has some rather fetching garniture. A pair of Staffordshire dogs are very on period. Books on steeplechasing ride high over the piano under a painting of ‘Beef or Salmon’, a past winner of the equine Hennessy Gold Cup. Framed like a moving triptych by the sliding panes of the canted bay window, ginger Freddie, one of three cats, nonchalantly meanders across the lawn paying scant attention to the chicken coop. Welcome to Oranmore House, a country estate in miniature.

Oranmore House Garden Ballymena © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Every Irish city or town has one: the best address. Dublin has Ailesbury Road; Belfast boasts Malone Road; Omagh’s got Hospital Road; Ballymena’s is Galgorm Road. Oranmore House is one of the late 19th century gentleman and lady’s residences flowering Galgorm Road. But with its single storey symmetrical frontage, it could just as easily be one of those low lying seaside villas in Monkstown or Killiney, south County Dublin. A taller two storey ancillary wing nicely inverts the usual architectural order of things. The drawing room is one of two principal reception rooms with deep coved ceilings flanking the entrance hall. There are two guest bedrooms on the ground floor and eight other guest bedrooms scattered across the first floor and a converted stable block to the rear.

Oranmore House Ballymena 1910 © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Oranmore House Ballymena © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Oranmore House Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Oranmore House Ballymena Drawing Room © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Oranmore House has opened to paying guests, fast becoming a byword for sumptuous hospitality. The social scene of Ballymena rotates round Oranmore House on a Saturday evening. Birthday parties fill the major and minor dining rooms; the drawing room reverberates to the sound of clinking glasses and guests’ laughter. Outside, beyond the pools of light cast by the tall sash windows, a red squirrel energetically scrambles up the Victorian monkey puzzle tree.

Oranmore House Ballymena Freddie © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Antrim + Down Coasts

Dockers and Carters

Whitehead County Antrim Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Once a place to leave, not to live, never mind visit, least of all for a luxury travel experience, how times have changed. The east coast of Northern Ireland (Counties Antrim and Down with Belfast sitting over their boundary) not only has Game of Thrones backdrops like the Dark Hedges and Ballintoy Harbour – it now offers thriving upmarket hospitality for the discerning visitor. County Antrim’s coastline is rugged; County Down’s is greener. There are plenty of scenic moments from the candy coloured Victorian villas of Whitehead to the crashing waves of Whitepark Bay.

Giant's Causeway County Antrim Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

As old as the island itself, Northern Ireland’s original God given tourist attraction has received a manmade upgrade. The Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim is a spear’s throw from Ballintoy Harbour. It’s a geological wonder of around 40,000 polygonal basalt columns rising from the splashed edge of the Atlantic. A visitor centre designed by award winning architects Heneghan Peng is formed of rectangular basalt columns propping up a grass roof. Architecture as land art. Nearby, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge is a popular walk (not for the fainthearted) over a 30 metre deep oceanic chasm.

AB @ Giant's Causeway © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“Welcome to the Emerald Isle!” beams Hammy Lowe, founder of Spectrum Cars, a family owned executive chauffeur service based in the historic walled town of Carrickfergus north of Belfast. “Spectrum Cars was formed in 1997 to meet demand from visiting business executives for reliable and security conscious transfers for corporate clients,” explains Hammy, “including big hitters like the Bank of England. We swiftly adapted to the burgeoning tourism market and added driver guided tours of the 50 kilometre long Causeway Coast. Recently we added Game of Thrones tours. The jewel in our crown is that we are the approved transport provider for the five star Merchant Hotel in Belfast.”

Causeway Coast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

County Antrim Coast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Giant's Causeway Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Causeway Coast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Country Antrim Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Galgorm Hotel Ballymena Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Galgorm Resort Ballymena Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Ballygally Bay Causeway Coast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Ballygally Castle Hotel Causeway Coast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Titanic Museum Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

AB © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Titanic Museum Belfast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

SS Nomadic Titanic Museum Belfast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

White Star Line Tableware Titanic Museum Belfast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Titanic Museum Interior Belfast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Titanic Bedroom Titanic Museum Belfast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Belfast City Hall View from Grand Central Hotel Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Anne's Cathedral Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Spectrum Cars’ new collaboration is the Toast The Coast tour led by World Host Food Ambassador Portia Woods stopping off for culinary delicacies in County Antrim seaside resorts. It starts with brunch in The Bank House, Whitehead. All the brunch courses are local produce from traditional soda bread (given a sharp twist with chili and pepper) to Irish black butter (darkened with brandy and liquorice). Tapas and gin tasting follow at Ballygally Castle Hotel, a haunted building dating back to 1625. Several of the world’s biggest music and film stars have travelled in Spectrum Cars but Hammy is the soul of discretion. When pushed, he confides, “A clue to our most famous client is she is the female lead role in the movie Mamma Mia!”

Belfast Cathedral Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Hammy notes, “The development of the Titanic Museum in Belfast at a cost of almost £100 million has been a tremendous boost to the Northern Ireland tourist economy.” Next to the museum, the shipyard drawing office, the birthplace of many a ‘floating hotel’, is now a hotel itself. Belfast boasts three restaurants with a Michelin star – no mean feat for a smallish city with a rocky past. It’s become something of a foodie destination. Local chef Michael Deane has no fewer than six eateries including the Michelin starred Eipic, named after the Greek philosopher Epicurus who rated pleasure highly. True to form, the hef declares, “Fish, to taste right, must swim three times: in water, in olive oil and in Champagne!”

Grand Central Hotel Cocktail © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

CNN Travel Reporter Maureen O’Hare who hails from Northern Ireland reckons “the food scene is really good in Belfast”. Michelin starred Ox overlooks the River Lagan. “Ox is my favourite restaurant,” Maureen shares. “It’s pure quality and class on every level.” The interior has a reclaimed industrial aesthetic. Art is reserved for the plates, not the walls. Oscar + Oscar designed the interior of Ox as well as Ox Cave, the bar next door. Architect Orla Maguire says, “We’re very proud of both – we have been lucky to work with some extremely talented clients. Ox Cave is one my favourite places to go in the city… its Comté with honey truffle is amazing.” Oscar + Oscar were also responsible for the interior of Il Pirata, a rustic Italian restaurant in east Belfast’s most fashionable urban village, Ballyhackamore.

The Merchant Hotel Belfast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The best view of Belfast can be captured from the Observatory, a lounge and bar on the 23rd floor of Grand Central Hotel. St Anne’s Cathedral (which has been gradually constructed over the last 100 years) and City Hall (an Edwardian architectural masterpiece) are two of the landmarks visible far below. The owners of the luxurious Galgorm Spa and Golf Resort in Ballymena, County Antrim, have opened Café Parisien opposite the City Hall. History buffs will recognise the name: Café Parisien on the Titanic was its inspiration. Oranmore House is an elegant country house with just 10 guest bedrooms on the outskirts of Ballymena. Montalto House is one of the grandest country houses in County Down set in 160 hectares of rolling parkland. Distinguished Irish architect John O’Connell and his team have restored the 18th century mansion and designed new neoclassical buildings. The gardens are open to the public and Montalto House is available for parties and weddings.

Cafe Parisien Belfast Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Northern Ireland may be the least populated of the four countries that make up the United Kingdom, but that hasn’t hindered the rise of some 100 golf courses. Hammy believes, “Northern Ireland is like paradise for golfers. Many of them are keen to visit Holywood Golf Club where US Open champion Rory McIlroy honed his skills.Royal Portrush is a must for a round on a links course and was the 2019 venue for the British Open. Equally attractive is Royal County Down with a most unique setting between sea and mountains. Try it on a windy day! A lesser known but recommended course is Royal Belfast with its 19th century clubhouse.” From golf to gastrotourism, urban culture to country estates, Northern Ireland’s east coast is finally a luxury travel destination.

Royal Belfast Golf Club Northern Ireland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Montalto House + Estate Ballynahinch Down

A Dawning of Clarity Upon Complexity

Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Map © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Braving Storm Ciara, on a blustery photogenic winter’s day, architect John O’Connell and his client Managing Director David Wilson lead a two-to-two private tour of Montalto Estate: The Big House; The Carriage Rooms; and the most recent addition, The Courtyard. It’s an extraordinary tale of the meeting of minds, the combining of talents, a quest for the best and the gradual unveiling and implementation of an ambitious informed vision that has transformed one of the great estates of Ulster into an enlightening major attraction celebrating old and new architecture, art and landscape, history and modernity. And the serving of rather good scones in the café.

Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Lake © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Philip Smith has just completed the latest book in the architectural series of the counties of Ulster started by the late Sir Charles Brett. Buildings of South County Down includes Montalto House: “Adding a storey to a house by raising the roof is a relatively common occurrence that can be found on dwellings of all sizes throughout the county and beyond. But the reverse, the creation of an additional floor by lowering the ground level, is a much rarer phenomenon. This, however, is what happened at Montalto, the original mid 18th century mansion assuming its present three storey appearance in 1837, when then owner David Stewart Ker ‘caused to be excavated round the foundation and under the house, thus forming an under-storey which is supported by numerous arches and pillars’. Ker did a quite successful job, and although the relative lack of front ground floor fenestration and a plinth appears somewhat unusual, it is not jarring, and without knowledge of the building’s history one would be hard pressed to discern the subterranean origin of this part of the house.”

Montalto Estate Ballynahinch © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The author continues, “Based on the internal detailing, Brett has suggested that William Vitruvius Morrison may have had a hand in the scheme, but evidence recently uncovered by Kevin Mulligan indicates the house remodelling was at least in part the work of Newtownards builder architect Charles Campbell, whose son Charles in September 1849 ‘came by his death in consequence of a fall which he received from a scaffold whilst pinning a wall at Montalto House.’”

Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Rewind a few decades and Mark Bence-Jones’ threshold work A Guide to Irish Country Houses describes Montalto House as follows, “A large and dignified three storey house of late Georgian aspect; which, in fact was built mid 18th century as a two storey house by Sir John Rawdon, 1st Earl of Moira; who probably brought the stuccodore who was working for him at Moira House in Dublin to execute the ceiling here; for the ceiling which survives in the room known as the Lady’s Sitting Room is pre 1765 and of the very highest quality, closely resembling the work of Robert West; with birds, grapes, roses and arabesques in high relief. There is also a triple niche of plasterwork at one end of the room; though the central relief of a fox riding in a curricle drawn by a cock is much less sophisticated that the rest of the plasterwork and was probably done by a local man.”

Montalto House Ballynahinch Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Some more: “In the 1837 ground floor there is an imposing entrance hall, with eight paired Doric columns, flanked by a library and a dining room. A double staircase leads up to the piano nobile, where there is a long gallery running the full width of the house, which may have been the original entrance hall. Also on the piano nobile is the sitting room with the splendid 18th century plasterwork. Montalto was bought circa 1910 by the 5th Earl of Clanwilliam, whose bride refused to live at Gill Hall, the family seat a few miles to the west, because of the ghosts there. In 1952, the ballroom and a service wing at the back were demolished.”

Montalto House Ballynahinch © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Facade © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Old Photograph © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Porch © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Bay Window © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Entrance Hall © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Dining Room © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Mirror © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch © Curtain Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Chinese Room © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Niche © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Plasterwork © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Montalto House Ballynahinch Ceiling © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Conservatory © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Gable © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Bar © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Brickwork © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Windows © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Artwork © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Interior © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Carriage Rooms Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Chairs © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Books aside, back on the tour, David Wilson considers, “You need to stay on top of your game in business. Montalto House was our family home – we still live on the estate. It’s personal. You have to maintain the vision all the time.” John O’Connell explains, “The baseless Doric columns of the entrance hall draw the exterior in – they are also an external feature of the porch. The order is derived from the Temple of Neptune at Paestum. Due to the ground floor originally being a basement it is very subservient to the grandeur upstairs. There are a lot of structural arches supporting ceilings.” A watercolour of the Temple of Neptune over the entrance hall fireplace emphasises the archaeological connection.

The Stables Montalto Estate Ballynahinch © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Upstairs, John’s in mid flow: “And now we enter a corridor of great grace and elegance.” The walls are lined, like all the internal spaces, with fine art, much of it Irish. David points to a Victorian photograph of the house: “It used to be three times as large as it is now!” The house is still pretty large by most people’s standards. Three enigmatic ladies in ankle length dresses guard the entrance door in the photograph. Upstairs, in the Lady’s Sitting Room which is brightly lit by the canted bay window over the porch, David relates, “the plasterwork reflects the original owners’ great interest in flora and fauna”. John highlights “the simple beauty of curtains and walls being the same colour”. Montalto House can be let as a whole for weddings and parties.

The Courtyard Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Pergola © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Onward and sideward – it’s a leisurely walk, at least when a storm isn’t brewing – to The Carriage Rooms. While John has restored Montalto House, finessing its architecture and interiors, The Carriage Rooms is an entirely new building attached to a converted and restored former mill. “In the 1830s the Ker family made a huge agricultural investment in Montalto,” states David. “They had the insight to turn it into a productive estate. The Kers built the mill and stables and powered water to create the lake.” White painted rendered walls distinguish John’s building from the rough stone older block. The Carriage Rooms are tucked in a fold in the landscape and are reached by a completely new avenue lined with plantation trees.

The Courtyard Montalto House Ballynahinch © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“I didn’t want to prettify this former industrial building,” records John. “It needed a certain robustness. The doors and windows have Crittall metal frames. Timbers frames would not be forceful enough. The stone cast staircase is a great achievement in engineering terms – and architectural terms too! The new upper floor balcony design was inspired by the architecture of the Naples School of Art. Horseshoe shaped insets soften the otherwise simple balustrade.” In contrast the orangery attached to the rear of The Carriage Rooms is a sophisticated symmetrical affair. “It’s where two worlds meet. This gives great validity to the composition,” John observes. Much of the furniture is bespoke: architect Anna Borodyn from John’s office designed a leaf patterned mobile copper bar. A formal garden lies beyond glazed double doors. The Carriage Rooms can be let as a whole for parties and weddings.

The Courtyard Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Justifiably lower key is the design of The Courtyard, a clachan like cluster of single and double storey buildings containing a café, shop and estate offices. It’s next to the 19th century stable yard. John’s practice partner Colin McCabe was the mastermind behind The Courtyard. Unpainted roughcast walls, casement rather than sash windows, polished concrete floors and most of all large glazed panels framed by functioning sliding shutters lend the complex an altogether different character to The Big House or even The Carriage Rooms. The Courtyard harks back to the Kers’ working estate era. “We wanted to create a sense of place using a magical simple vocabulary,” confirms John, “and not some bogus facsimile”. A catslide roof provides shelter for a barbeque. An unpretentious pergola extends the skeleton of the built form into the garden.

The Courtyard Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Cafe © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“We have over 10,000 visitors a month and employ 80 people,” beams David. The 160 hectares of gardens and woodlands have entered their prime. A new timber temple – a John O’Connell creation of course – overlooks the lake. Contemporary neoclassicism is alive and very well. The Beautiful. The Sublime. The Picturesque. As redefined for the 21st century. Montalto Estate hits the high note for cultural tourism in Ireland, even mid storm.

Montalto Estate Ballynahinch Cafe © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Architecture Country Houses

Rockport Lodge + Mount Druid Causeway Coast Antrim

A Penchant for the Peculiar

Ballintoy Beach Causeway Coast © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

There are two distinguished Georgian houses along the Causeway Coast with unusual fenestration. Rockport Lodge just beyond Cushendun appears to have missing windows on the canted flanks of its outer bay windows on the south elevation. Mount Druid high above Ballintoy appears to have the middle windows missing in its two bay windows on the north elevation. Forget the wild weather resistance of yore: a modern sensibility would be to capture from all angles such a view sweeping down to the incredibly untouched Ballintoy Harbour. Mount Druid’s mildly idiosyncratic face to the world (the entrance front is actually the more regular five bay south elevation looking into the hill) is austere – an attribute noted by writers as being highly suitable to this bare landscape. White painted walls against the dark hill add to the stark grandeur of Mount Druid. Waves lap up to the white painted walls of Rockport Lodge. It too has a more conventional entrance front, four bays facing westwards inland.

Ballintoy County Antrim © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Sir Charles Brett includes both houses in Buildings of County Antrim. On Rockport Lodge, the once Belfast based full time solicitor part time architectural writer records, “According to Boyle, in 1835, the house ‘the summer residence of Major General O’Neill is a modern two storey edifice, and very commodious’. It was valued on 9 August 1834 at £20.13.0 of which £2 was added ‘for vicinity to sea, being a good situation for sea bathing’… soon after the name of General O’Neill was struck out, and that of Matilda Kearns substituted. Her name in turn was struck out in 1868, when Nicholas Crommelin moved here from The Caves, the house being valued then at £38.”

Ballintoy Harbour © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Ballintoy Harbour Causeway Coast © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Rockport Lodge Cushendun © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Five Big Houses of Cushendun is a smaller book written by Sir Charles Brett. It includes Rockport Lodge: “The handsome white painted house, hugging the shoreline, can be dated with some accuracy to 1813. It does not appear on William Martin’s conscientiously detailed map of 1811 to 1812; but Ann Plumptre, who was here in the summer of 1814, wrote that Cushendun ‘is an excellent part of the country for game; on which account Lord O’Neill, the proprietor of Shane’s Castle’ [in fact, his younger brother] ‘has built a little shooting box very near the shore, whither in the season he often comes to shoot’. It stands between Castle Carra and the sea. The south front facing across the broad curve to the village, consists of three canted bays, set in a zigzag under the wide eaves, leaving triangular recesses in between: five 16 pane windows on the ground floor; three more, and two oculi, in the upper floor. The entrance front, of four bays, has wide Georgian glazed windows and a pleasing and unusual geometrical glazing pattern in the recessed porch.”

Rockport Lodge Cushendun Entrance © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The entry for Mount Druid in Buildings of County Antrim reads, “A remarkable house, on an extraordinarily prominent (and exposed) hillside, looking out due north across the North Channel to the cliffs of Oa on Islay. The house is of two storeys, on a generous basement, with tiny attic windows in the gables; in principle, seven bays wide, with generous canted bays facing north – but the central face of each bay is blank – as Girvan says, ‘giving a very bleak effect, not inappropriate to the inhospitable position.’ Between the bays, a tall round headed window lights the upper part of the staircase, an oculus above and below. The remaining windows are 15 pane Georgian glazed. There are six chimneypots on each stack; the doorcase in the square porch in the entrance front facing south is modern.”

Mount Druid Ballintoy © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

There’s more: “The vestry minute book for the parish contains the following uncommonly useful entry: ‘There was 40 acres granted by Alexander Thomas Stewart Esq of Acton to Reverend Robert Traill and his successors, Rectors of Ballintoy, in perpetuity, for a glebe, in the townland of Magherabuy on the ninth of August 1788. Rent £25.5.0. In May 1789 Mr Traill began to build a Glebe House and got possession of it on the 14th November 1791 – changing the name of the place from Magherabuy to Mount Druid, on account of the Druid’s Temple now standing on the Glebe.’ Unfortunately, despite this wealth of documentation, there is nothing to say what builder, mason, carpenter or architect was involved: no payments appear in the vestry book since Mr Traill evidently paid for the house out of his own pocket.” The similarities between the two houses may not be entirely coincidental. Charlie wondered if  Rockport Lodge could be the work of the same architect or skilled builder as Mount Druid?

Mount Druid Ballintoy Entrance © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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La Divine Comédie Demeure Privée + Spa Avignon

A Sense of Theatre

Rooftop View La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

A private paradise. A secret world. A hidden kingdom. Cloistered glory. The very essence of exclusivity. If luxury could be bottled… heavenly scent. A multiple epiphanic realisation of complete beauty and tranquillity. Not even a Gallic Frances Hodgson Burnett could dream up the discreet walled splendour of La Divine Comédie. Although Colette comes pretty close in Gigi: “Such a beautiful garden… such a beautiful garden.” Its only outward expression, an enigmatic public face, is an ivied arched wooden gate at the end of a laneway off Rue Sainte Catherine or is it Rue des Bains or Rue Saluces? Such is the labyrinth that is old town Avignon. Corrugations of sunshine ripple across the lawn and climb over a card table. Gigi again, “What about a game of piquet?”

Rooftops View La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“We called it La Divine Comédie after the many theatrical connections of Avignon,” explains co owner Amaury de Villoutreys, a former financier. There are two theatres – Théâtre Golovine and Théâtre du Chêne Noir – within Galilean binoculars view of the house. A diorama of a stage in the dining room reinforces the theme. Distinguished architectural historian Dr Roderick O’Donnell reckons, “As Chaucer is to English, so Dante is the father of spoken Italian. Donald Tusk, President of the European Council, referenced Dante when he quipped there is a ‘special place in hell’ for certain politicians.” This could well be the beginning of always.

View La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Trees La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Terrace La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pool La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Garden Pool La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Swimming Pool La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bench La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Urn La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pond La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bust La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Table La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Swag La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bamboos La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Night Lantern La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Lantern La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Perspective La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Garden View La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Exterior La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Orangery La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Upper Floors La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Shutters La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Eaves La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pavilion Table La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pavilion La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pavilion Bust La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pavilion Coronets La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Staircase Hall La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bannister La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Stairs La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Night Time Stairs La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Landing La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Landing Table La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Staircase Rooflight La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Attic Stairs La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dining Room La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Elephant La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Horse La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Taxidermy La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Chess La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Mantelpiece La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Statue La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Shadow La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Sculpture La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Door La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom Diorama La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom Chandelier La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom Boat La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom Mantelpiece La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bathroom La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dog La Divine Comedie Hotel © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dog La Divine Comedie Avignon Provence © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dog La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Cat La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Five guest suites breathe and stretch and spread and sprawl across three uncrowded bedroom floors, louvred shutters flung open to the birds tweeting leaves rustling church bells peeling. The Cat by Colette, “Above the withered stump draped with climbing plants, a flight of bees over the ivy flowers gave out a solemn cymbal note, the identical note of so many summers.” Last used as a school, the stone house – dating from the 18th and 19th centuries – is so tall yet not as tall as its smothering of ancient plane trees. Remnants of the 14th century palace of Cardinal Amédée de Saluces, ghostly tracery of the past, are imprinted on the garden wall. A 15 metre swimming pool lies hidden behind dense bamboo woodland. The perfumed aroma of musk and civet intensifies with the heat of a lost summer afternoon. Piquet time.

Cat La Divine Comedie Avignon Provence © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

La Divine Comédie is the outcome of a revelatory seven year conversion and restoration programme. The interiors radiate confident good taste: the other co owner Gilles Jauffret is a leading decorator. Antique pieces, vintage finds and contemporary artworks are mixed with bravura under rococo’d ceilings. There’s an elephant in the (sitting) room. Pictures in the staircase hall are hung as close as stamps in the style beloved by Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors. Light selectively permeates the spaces through internal French doors and rooflights. The Cat once more: “The zone of shadow… the zone of shadow…” Persian siblings Gaston and Simone curl playfully on matching grey chairs. Thédule the Weinheimer blends in with the suede cover of a garden seat while alfresco quail’s eggs breakfast is served. Such pedigree.

Cat La Divine Comedie Avignon Hotel © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Country Houses

Provence + Twilight + Moonlight

Sonata

Provence Twilight © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Provence Moonlight © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Architecture Country Houses People

Nicholas Ashley-Cooper 12th Earl of Shaftesbury + St Giles House Dorset

Changing the Dial

Nicholas Ashley-Cooper 12th Earl of Shaftesbury 2019 © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

St Giles House has quite an evolving history,” says Lord Shaftesbury. “Country houses are always living organisms. The Victorian obsession was to make them bigger and better. Strange French château style pavilions were added to St Giles. They were poorly constructed and didn’t survive more than seven years. Whoever thought they were a good idea?” Nick is England’s coolest aristo. He also happens to own Lough Neagh in Northern Ireland. His great grandfather who was Chancellor of Queen’s University Belfast gifted the family’s Northern Irish seat, Belfast Castle, to the City Council in 1934. Today, Nick is dressed in a linen suit and trainers with his trademark sweptback hair touching his shirt collar. He also happens to be responsible for one of the most iconic – not a term to use lightly – country house rooms of the 21st century. More of the Great Dining Room later.

“Growing up nearby I used to cycle past St Giles and think what a strange place it was – from another era.” A series of very unexpected events resulted in Nick inheriting the derelict house and its 2,220 hectare estate just south of Cranborne Chase, Dorset, in 2005. The first phase of restoration of the house was to “create a cosy family space akin to our Earls Court flat life at that time”. Nick and his wife Dinah along with their three children moved into this “cocoon” occupying a few rooms. He remembers, “We needed to live and feel and breathe the building.”

Despite lying empty for 50 years, “It was an incredible house just full of stuff. Our challenge was navigating our way through what was worth salvaging and what wasn’t. We found some beautiful unique pieces we wanted to showcase. Otherwise, the interior is a combination of beautiful architectural decoration and relatively modern pieces. My wife loves to be bold and not use more mellow colours!” He adds, “At the time, a lot of people asked how do you go from being a DJ to running an estate? But running a venue was something I could do – I could bring people in.”

And so the second phase of restoration began. “I told the builders not to leave. The public rooms have been kept sparse to allow them to be used for events. The architecture is so beautiful and you are drawn to that. There are very few curtains on the ground floor – you don’t need them. The thing that makes it magical is you’re going into a space that has been used by generations of people. In some ways this is imprinted on the structure. Patination is an important part of the atmosphere.” A particularly innovative approach was taken for the Great Dining Room.

“This room was really badly hit by dry rot,” explains Nick. “My father was forced to rip out much of the panelling. And so it was a room in pieces really. But we had six family portraits, features in their own right, and a wonderful overmantel. During restoration you lose character if you put everything back. Here was a space that you couldn’t create – it was what it was. We wanted to allow people to interact with its current condition, a new dimension. There is no one time period that necessarily trumps another. Patina gives it that movement and feeling of character which is very hard to create.” The 12th Earl of Shaftesbury concludes, “It’s been a wonderful journey of exploration, a really big adventure. If we get this right, we will have turned around the estate for several generations. Sometimes I feel like the stars have aligned on this project!”

Categories
Architecture Country Houses Hotels Luxury People

Forss House Thurso Caithness + The Chimneys

Passing Places

Forss House Hotel Thurso Estate © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Really, a newspaper cutting was enough to book Forss House for a Highlands escape. Those chimneys, even looming large in a thumbnail! Close to the northernmost point of Britain, Dunnet Head, the hotel overlooks a serpentine river and is surrounded by an enchanting forest. Ian and Sabine Richards have owned it for the past dozen years. Anne Mackenzie, a force (Forss?) of nature, has been General Manager for the last 32 years. Later she will show us a Viking style pine cup. “Major Radclyffe found it in the attic in 1900. Are you quite pleased to see it?”

Forss House Hotel Thurso Caithness © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The chimneys are a riot. Even more so up close and personal when viewed from a roof ledge. They’re so tall and Tudorbethan, or as Sir Charles Barry would’ve said, “Anglo-Italian”. Joseph Gribben, a mid 20th century Belfast builder, always insisted on lofty chimneys because they keep smoke away from the roof. Some of them have windows between their stacks. They look like they belong to another house, not the 1810 Regency one below. Together they form a defensive ring around and above the perimeter walls. What a silhouette!

Forss House Hotel Thurso Woodlands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

John Gifford writes in The Pevsner Guide Buildings of Scotland Highland and Islands, 2007, “Eight kilometres west of Thurso. Harled early 19th century mansion of the Sinclairs of Forss, with huge chimneys on the wallheads as well as the gables. Lower mid Victorian west addition; the east gable’s conservatory is also late 19th century. On the north front, a crenelated porch added in 1939. Beside the Forss Water to the west, an early 19th piend roofed mill; at its south end, a small miller’s house with gable stone dormers. On the river’s opposite bank, a second mill, probably also early 19th century. Two arch bridge with rounded cutwaters, of circa 1800.”

Forss House Hotel Thurso View © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The five bay garden front is a chessboard of blind windows: the central window on the raised ground floor is a visual trick; so are the alternating middle windows on the first floor. “Forss House was built as a hunting lodge by the Sinclairs of Orkney,” according to Anne. “The wild game hunter Major Charles Radclyffe retired here at the end of the 19th century. He had the first coloured tattoo in Britain.” There are plenty of reminders of its hunting lodge past, from the stags’ heads in the entrance hall to the fresh fish on the menu. Dinner is held in the dining room which overlooks the south garden and river:

Forss House Hotel Thurso Mill © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso River © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Lawn © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Weathervane © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Entrance Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Date Stone © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Side Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Fish Catch © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Blind Window © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Silhouette © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso River Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso South Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Roof © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Roofscape © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Chimneys © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Mirror © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Whisky Bar © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Whisky Bar Antlers © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Cup © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Attic Find © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Whisky Bar Sofa © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Antler Chair © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Cairnmore Room © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Bed © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso Entrance Bath © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Forss House Hotel Thurso G+T © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

In the whisky bar next door to the dining room is a framed letter from a newspaper published by the Continent’s first English bookshop. It’s addressed to the Major’s father: “C J Radcoyffe Esq, Hyde, Wareham, Dorset. Dear Sir, We the undersigned desire as members of the Staff of The Galignani Messenger to collectively offer you and your family our heartiest good wishes for a happy Christmas and a bright New Year. We take this opportunity of earnestly trusting that you may be spared for many years to preside over the ever increasing success and prosperity of The Galignani Messenger and we on our part will use our best endeavours to attain that object. Paris 24th December 1894.”

Forss House Hotel Thurso Goats's Cheese Mousse © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

All the raised ground floor reception rooms are carpeted with Hunting McKay Black Watch tartan, the only non clan tartan. Breakfast is in the adjoining conservatory. The original 19th century conservatory was doubled in size in the second half of last century. It overlooks the east garden. A shallow sweeping staircase leads to four first floor bedroom suites. Rooms are named after hills and types of fishing bait. Cairnmore and Torran overlook the river. Brimside has a view of the east garden. Tulloch overlooks the entrance. There are a further four bedrooms on the lower ground floor plus accommodation in estate buildings.

Forss House Hotel Thurso Scallops © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Under pink laced clouds and a Phoenix Blue sky, Forss House more than lives up to its chimneys.

Forss House Hotel Thurso Entrance Petit Fours © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Architecture Country Houses People

Euphemia Honeyman + Skaill House Orkney Islands

Never Enough

Skaill House Orkney Island View © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

A family house steeped in 5,500 years of history – well of course it’s going to be riddled with ghosts! And it would take a Norse code to unravel its beginnings. The current building is a conglomeration of wings and whims from the early 17th century to the mid 20th century. It has an amazingly unified appearance despite – or should that be because of? – a thorough 1950s rejigging. Skaill House is set between the Loch of Skaill and the Atlantic Ocean. Nearby, a World War II Italian Chapel and German warship wrecks are remnants of more recent history. Captain Cook’s dinner service is a sign this Laird and Lady Laird boast serious provenance.

Skaill House Orkney Islands Sunken Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Major Malcolm and Jane Macrae are the current owners. Their daughter Kate was born in 1987 and son John in 1990. The Laird restored the unoccupied house and opened it to the public in 1997. It’s incredibly charming with low ceilinged rooms except for the centrally placed double height staircase hall. A drawing room upstairs has gorgeous views across the Atlantic Ocean. The house is surrounded by the plainest of parterres and simplest of sunken gardens, as befits this windswept treeless location.

Skaill House Orkney Island Main Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Island Loch Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands Side Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Island Scotland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Island Scotland Garden Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands Wing © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Island Bullseye Window © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands Portrait © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands First Floor © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands Drawing Room © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands Lamp © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands Taxidermy © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands Shutters © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Island Bedroom © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Skaill House Orkney Islands Dress © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Pevsner Guide Buildings of Scotland Highland and Islands by John Gifford records, “1.2 kilometres south of Sandwick. Rustically smart harled laird’s house placed on a low hillside between the Bay of Skaill to the northeast and the Loch of Skaill to the southwest. The earliest part of the main house is the narrow crowstep gabled north range, probably built for Bishop George Graham circa 1620, apparently as a freestanding block, its slightly off centre south door from the present stairhall provided with a bar hole and clearly the original entrance from outside. In the late 17th century the Bishop’s grandson, Henry Graham of Breckness, converted the house to a U plan by adding a southwest link to a broader straight gabled south range, the two west gables being joined by a screen wall. In this wall, a roll moulded round arched doorway, its weathered keystone decorated with a cherub’s head surmounting the Honours of Scotland (crown, sword and sceptre). Above this, a reused lintel, probably from a fireplace, carved with a monogram of the initials of Henry Graham and his wife Euphemia Honeyman and the inscription ‘Weak things grow by vnitie [sic] and love by discord strong things weak and weaker prove Anno 1676.’ The date may be that of the additions.

Sunken Ships Orkney Islands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The south range was damaged by a fire circa 1800, and subsequent remodelling of the house introduced late Georgian windows, including a big ground floor bullseye window in the south range’s west gable. Probably at the same time the open centre was partly filled by a piend roofed stairhall with a three light first floor window looking over to the sea. In the mid 19th century further alterations took place, two gabled stone dormerheads being added on the south side and a flat roofed porch built on the east, providing a resting place for early 17th century carved stones. In the porch’s south side, a panel taken from Breckness House bearing the arms and initials of Bishop George Graham. In the porch’s east front, a dormerhead, its strapworked cartouche again containing Bishop Graham’s initials. At one corner of this front, a skewputt carved with a shell, at the other a skewputt bearing a rosette.

Italian Chapel Orkney Islands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Office courtyard attached to the house’s north side, its present appearance largely informal late Georgian. Tall crowstepped north range. On the east range’s east front, shaped dormerheads, perhaps mid 19th century. Over the entrance through the single storey west block, a reset 17th century dormerhead carved with a cherub’s head under a star. Mid 20th century courtyard to the northeast with a battlemented screen wall on the southwest and north ranges, the north with shaped armorial dormerheads, forming two sides. The fourth side is closed by the north end of the 19th century crenelated walled garden.”

Italian Chapel Interior Orkney Islands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Architects Architecture Country Houses People

The Queen Mother + The Castle of Mey Caithness

The Definite Article

Hoy Orkney Islands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“That is possibly the funniest episode I have ever read,” emailed the much missed Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors, in response to a descriptive summary of a group visit to a certain castle in Sussex. Said summary included a luxury coach breaking down, a shuttered up gothic castle, a game septuagenarian scaling a battlemented wall, a mass trespass into the castle, a hungover hostess lying in a four poster bed… and then things went from bad to worse… Fortunately, a visit to The Castle of Mey is less turbulent.

The Castle of Mey Caithness View © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“It’s very romantic,” notes heritage architect John O’Connell, “and the walled garden is beautiful.” Teetering on the edge of the world, or at least the top of Britain, overlooking Hoy, the second largest Orkney Island, is the only private residence The Queen Mother ever owned. In August 1952, just widowed, she bought the derelict Barrogill Castle for a token £100 from a local landowner. It was love at first sight, and who could blame Her Late Majesty? It helped that her great chum Lady Doris Vyner just so happened to live next door, or rather next estate, at The House of the Northern Gate.

The Castle of Mey Caithness Coast © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Following a three year reconstruction, The Queen Mother spent four weeks every August and 10 days every October at The Castle of Mey, as she rebranded it, right up to her death in 2001 aged 101. She furnished it simply with purchases from local antiques shops complemented by a few family pieces. And a Linley occasional table. Curtains are draped below bathroom basins in that upper class domestic fashion. Prince Charles continues the holidaying tradition and stays in the castle for 10 days every July. The building dates from the late 16th century except for the double height front hall which was added in 1819 to the design of William Burn for James Sinclair, 12th Earl of Caithness.

The Castle of Mey Caithness Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Castle of Mey Caithness Walled Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Castle of Mey Caithness Glasshouse © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Castle of Mey Caithness Flowerbeds © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Castle of Mey Caithness Facade © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Castle of Mey Caithness Scotland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Queen Mother's Castle of Mey Caithness © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Castle of Mey Caithness Side Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Elizabeth Angela Marguerite’s younger daughter wasn’t just so keen on The Castle of Mey. Despite having a bedroom named in her honour, Princess Margaret never slept in the castle, preferring the luxury of the Royal Yacht. The Queen Mother’s favourite colour, Phoenix Blue, is everywhere from picture frames and towels to her raincoat on display in the front hall. There’s a well stocked drinks table in the drawing room. “The Queen Mother’s best loved tipple was one measure of Gordon’s Gin and three measures of Dubonnet served with lemon and ice,” explains her close friend Major John Perkins. He’s still a regular guest at the castle. “She always had ice in drinks and used her fingers, claiming ice prongs were an American invention!”

The Castle of Mey Caithness Wing © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Queen Mother frightfully loved picnics,” he continues, “but when she formally dined in the castle, the seats on either side of her were called the ‘hot seats’ for special guests. At the start of the meal, everyone spoke to the person on their right and then swapped to the person on their left. That way no one was left out of conversations. She rang a bell for the next course to be brought out. Her three corgis would bark at the same time. After dinner, the gents would remain in the dining room drinking port, while the ladies would withdraw to the drawing room. If the gents lingered too long, The Queen Mother would start a rousing rendition of ‘O Come All Ye Faithful’! That meant get packing!”

The Castle of Mey Caithness Lawn © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Major adds, “The Queen Mother had a terrific sense of humour. She was highly highly intelligent. She met all the world leaders of her time except for Hitler, Mussolini and Stalin.” On décor, “The Queen Mother didn’t like suspended lights. She liked soft lamps which cast more flattering light and shadows. The castle is exactly as she had it as her home. We haven’t added posh stuff!”

The Castle of Mey Caithness Keep © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Architecture Country Houses

Farr Bay Inn + Coffee House Bettyhill Caithness

FBI

Fair Bay Inn Bettyhill Sutherland © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

It’s Waverley meets Wuthering Heights. Rugged architecture for a rugged location. Black painted window surrounds like heavily applied kohl eyeliner add to its air of mystery. Farr Bay Inn was built as a manse precisely two centuries ago.

Categories
Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Luxury

Dunrobin Castle + Garden Sutherland

Crock of Gold

Dunrobin Castle Beach © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

On a wild and windswept Sunday morn, we’re wandering through the 189 rooms, grand and not so grand, of the largest house in the Scottish Highlands. Dunrobin Castle, a fairytale in stone as mostly imagined by the Houses of Parliament architect Sir Charles Barry and later by the Edinburgh architect Sir Robert Lorimer, stands proud on a precipice. Far below, between the south elevation and the north coast, framed by a forest of violet shadows, lies a garden of nature tidied: clipped trees, manicured bushes and shaped hedgerows. Distracting, no doubt. Dizzying, definitely. Yet somehow, we’re transfixed by a didactic sign in the servants’ hall. Prosaic, probably. Poignant, possibly.

Dunrobin Castle Sutherland Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Parterre © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle View © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Terrace © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Wall © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Lawn © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Topiary © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Border © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Flowerbed © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Flowerbeds © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Flowers © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Stone © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Scottish Highlands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Garden Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle South Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Oriel © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Sitting Room © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Bedroom © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle China © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Portraits © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Silverware © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Tartan © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dunrobin Castle Taxidermy © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“Fire. In order that the Household Servants should be instructed in their duties in the event of fire, I direct that the following rules be observed: Every Indoor Servant is expected to make himself or herself fully acquainted with these rules, with the positions of the fire alarms, chemical extinguishers, fire hydrants etc, and to act with the utmost speed. If the fire discovered appears to be more than can be quelled by an extinguisher, the alarm should be given by the cry of ‘Fire’ and by sounding the Castle ‘hooter’ from the nearest point. This is done by breaking the glass front of any of the alarm boxes. This is to be followed by ringing the fire bell, using the steel rope which is accessible at any point of the Clock stairs. Any servant, hearing either of the foregoing alarm signals, should immediately ring the electric bells within the wall case with sliding glass cover opposite the door of Housekeeper’s Sitting Room, and the Telephones, as per notice in the Telephone box. Servants, other than those engaged in sending out the last named fire calls, should at once proceed to the scene of the fire and act as the situation requires, which may mean collecting of more fire extinguishers, buckets of sand, smothering cloths, or running out hosing from the nearest hydrants, as per Drill instructions, and carry on extinguishing operations until relieved by the Fire Brigade. Sutherland.”

Dunrobin Castle Uniform © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Country Houses Hotels Restaurants

Lynnfield Hotel + Restaurant Kirkwall Orkney Islands

Freighted for Heaven

Highland Park Distillery Orkney Islands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

A sea of chairs fills the drawing room. And somewhere at the core of Lynnfield Hotel is the 1790s manse of Kirkwall Cathedral. In 1902 Walter Grant, owner of the adjacent Highland Park Distillery, bought the house for his daughter and son-in-law. Mr Grant lived at Highland Park House next door. The house was doubled in size. During World War II it was requisitioned as an officers’ mess. In 1947, Lynnfield Hotel was born. A quadruple pile hipped roof of pyramidal complexity reflects the complicated history of the building.

Lynnfield Hotel Orkney Islands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Lynnfield Hotel Kirkwall Orkney Islands © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Architects Art Country Houses Design Luxury People

The House of Lavender’s Blue + More Attitude

A Fantasia of Art

The House of Lavender's Blue Bay Trees © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Louise Harpman, architect, urban designer and Professor of Architecture, Urban Design and Sustainability at New York University’s Gallatin School of Individualised Study: “I love your flat, and it seems that we both share a fascination with designers who strive for a sense of Gesamtkunstwerk. I wonder if you have deep plum coloured smoking jackets for your guests?!”

The House of Lavender's Blue Tailor's Dummy © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The late Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors and member of the Irish Georgian Society London: “I think your flat looks lovely. The rooms are nice and tall. Purple is just not used enough – I adore it!”

The House of Lavender's Blue Bay Chair © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Architects Architecture Country Houses People

Pencarrow House + Garden Bodmin Cornwall

And Did Those Feet in Ancient Time

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Italian Garden © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The setting of Pencarrow House – the south elevation overlooks a formally laid out garden around a fountain all in a vast green basin – is reminiscent of Curraghmore in County Waterford. It’s an unflowered rationalised greenscape. Coloured planting is reserved for the immediate surrounds of the house. The entrance front is such a classic three storey Palladian design (albeit a late rendition): two bays on either side of a central three bay pedimented breakfront. It found favour throughout the British Isles. Irish Georgian houses featuring this seven bay frontage include Abbey Leix, County Laois | Castle Ward, County Down | Leslie Hill, County Antrim | Stackallan House, County Meath.

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Parterres © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

An earlier house was mostly rebuilt by the 4th and 5th Baronets in the 1760s and 1770s. The architect of the elegantly symmetric south and east elevations was the illusive Robert Allanson of York. His low profile may be explained in part by him dying aged 38 in 1773. Pencarrow is his legacy. The charmingly asymmetric west (rough slate stone) and north (rougher stone rubble) elevations are clearly older – the Molesworths have been in Cornwall for 600 years or so. There’s lots of fenestration fun on the north elevation with Serliana, blind and false windows. An 1824 engraving of the (smooth stuccoed stone) south and east elevations shows no dentils on the cornice and no pediments over the windows. These were added in 1844 by the 8th Baronet using the Plymouth architect George Wightwick. The interiors date from these periods plus an Edwardian makeover in some quarters by the prolific Kent architect Ernest Newton.

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Lawn © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Iona Lady Molesworth-St Aubyn, 15th Baroness, lives at Pencarrow with her second son James and his wife Gillian. Her elder son, Sir William Molesworth-St Aubyn, 16th Baronet, lives at Tetcott Manor in Holsworthy, Devon, a minor – relatively (no pun) speaking – family seat. She says, “The family are hands on with the everyday running of the estate, and together with a great team we keep Pencarrow thriving in the 21st century. You approach Pencarrow House by an impressive mile long woodland drive, passing an ancient fortified encampment and through banks of vibrant rhododendrons, camellias and hydrangeas.”

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Walk © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Vista © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Terrace © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Urn © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Hedgerow © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Grotto © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall Ornament © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House and Garden Cornwall © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Cornwall Entrance Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Wadebridge Cornwall South Elevation and Entrance Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Cornwall South Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Wadebridge Cornwall South Elevation and Entrance Front © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Wadebridge Cornwall © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Cornwall South and West Elevations © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Cornwall South Elevation Seat © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Cornwall South Elevation Window © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pencarrow House Wademouth Cornwall West Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Lady Molesworth-St Aubyn records, “In 1959 my in-laws, Sir John, 14th Baronet, and his wife Celia Molesworth-St Aubyn moved to a nearby farmhouse and Pencarrow became empty for some 16 years. After much discussion about what to do with the house, including giving it to the National Trust, the only viable option left was to open it to visitors. A decision which, whilst challenging at times, we have never regretted. My husband Arscott left the army in 1969 and soon afterwards we started to make one part of the house habitable again; this included rewiring and replumbing. Due to the enormous cost, this took over five years, and the remainder of the house is, I am afraid, still an ongoing project.”

Pencarrow House Cornwall Family Wing © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The gardens cover about 20 hectares of the 600 hectare estate. “The Italian Garden, Rock Garden and main drive were kept tidy, but the rest of the gardens had become an impenetrable jungle and the lake was barely visible,” her Ladyship remembers. “After many long months of clearing by my husband, friends, family and anyone willing to help, it was finally possible to walk all around the American Gardens and across to the Iron Age Fort. The Walled Garden and greenhouses, which during my father-in-law’s time were used to grow tomatoes and chrysanthemums, were turned over to self pick strawberries and raspberries. Nowadays this area has become an excellent location for wedding receptions and other functions.”

Pencarrow House Cornwall North Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

She thinks, “Pencarrow’s gardens are extensive and varied. They were designed and laid out by our radical statesman, Sir William Molesworth. He began in 1831 and continued during the intervals of his Parliamentary sessions until his early death in 1855. The green fingered Sir William started by converting the rather dull lawn in front of the house into the beautifully proportioned sunken Italian Garden centring around our fountain.”

Pencarrow House Cornwall Rear Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Family archivist David Donaldson adds, “Much of the layout of the gardens as we know them today still bear Sir William’s imprint and, thanks to the meticulous records to be found in his Garden Book (still preserved at Pencarrow) we know not only what he landscaped, but also what he planted and where he planted.” An 1832 engraving of the Italian Garden is very recognisable except for shrubs planted in the parterre. A 1908 photograph shows heavier shrubbery and trees in the parterre.

Pencarrow House Cornwall False Window © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“The house opened its doors to the public for the first time in 1975,” completes Lady Molesworth-St Aubyn, “initially for only two days a week. However, very quickly it proved to be extremely popular and we are now open five days a week and have a shop in the stables. As you wander into the courtyard at the rear of the house you can see three 17th century cottages, one of which we have converted into the Peacock Café.” It’s aptly named: peacocks perch proudly (and nosily) on various first floor windowsills around the house. Banoffee and cream tea chocolate bars are top sellers in the shop.

Pencarrow House Cornwall East and North Elevation © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Categories
Country Houses

Marilynne Robinson + Falmouth Cornwall

Gyllyngvase

World class musicians violinist Lana Trotovšek and pianist Maria Canyigueral set the Wigmore Hall alight on Monday night. Such stunningly contained performances. Their recital opened and closed with Beethoven sonatas. A staggering volume of stamina was required to launch into Prokofiev’s demanding Violin Sonata Number 1 in F Minor Opus 80 straight after smashing the rediscovered work Intermezzo Romantique by the 20th century Slovenian composer Lucijan Marija Škerjanc. While Maria is Spanish Catalan, Lana was born in Slovenia but is London based. Afterwards she tells us, “Slovenia is beautiful but London is where it’s at!” The much called for encore was the well chosen Second Movement of Beethoven’s Spring Sonata. What a start to the week! Afterwards, the virtuosic pair arrived in the Wigmore restaurant to a standing ovation. Sitting next to us at the supper, Lana explained, “Wigmore Hall allows you to build up your own programme. I chose Prokofiev as a highlight. He’s very theatrical!” Food for the soul. American writer Marilynne Robinson believes: “the mind is what the brain does… Still, it is the soul that appraises what the mind integrates.” Our week concludes in soul stirring Falmouth, inspired by the roaring spirit of the sea.

Categories
Country Houses

Downings Pier Rosguill + Mevagh Donegal

Shore Thing

The Ordnance Survey Memoirs of Ireland, Parishes of Donegal I, 1833 to 1835 record: “The villages of Downings and Doagh are the principal fishing places. Some few persons give themselves up entirely to the trade, not having any land, and send their fish to Letterkenny and Derry on ponies and asses.”

Rosguill, historically known as Mevagh, is one of several peninsulae off the north coast of County Donegal. To its west is the gentle watered Sheephaven Bay; to its east, the rocky waves of Mulroy Bay. The 15 kilometre Atlantic Drive loops round its dramatic coastline. Downings is a low key tourist destination on the western shore of this far flung tip of Ireland.

Again, The Ordnance Survey Memoirs of Ireland, Parishes of Donegal I, 1833 to 1835: “The climate is very moist and changeable, the parish being mountainous and exposed to the vapours from the Atlantic Ocean.”

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Architects Architecture Country Houses

Tranarossan House Downings Donegal + Sir Edwin Lutyens

The New Ned

Is this Ireland’s greatest chalet bungalow? Who knew the legendary English architect Sir Edwin Lutyens rustled up a design for such an isolated site in Ireland? Certainly, the master’s New Delhi architecture is somewhat better known than his work in Dundooan Lower. Ned’s mother was Irish and he was rather well connected, allowing him to vamp up a country house here, revamp a castle there. His most famous project in Ireland is Dublin’s War Memorial Gardens.

In the 1890s the well heeled Honourable Robert and Mrs Phillimore of London blew £40 on a three hectare site near Downings. They commissioned Ned to design them a holiday home. Irish architect John O’Connell says, “Lutyens was very adept at immediately seeing potential on site. He would rarely deviate from his initial sketches.” After her husband died, Mrs P continued to use the house until 1936 when she handed it over to the An Óige Trust. Tranarossan House, rechristened Trá na Rossan, became the Trust’s most architecturally distinguished youth hostel.

A traveller recalls, “I remember staying at Tranarossan in the 1960s. We hitchhiked to The Atlantic Drive and then had to find our way to the hostel in the dark. We got there about midnight. It was full… there were bunkbeds in every room… but the managers let us sleep on the kitchen floor. It was run by an old couple. I remember thinking the building was quite new, that it was a purpose built hostel.”

Ned swung from Arts + Crafts in his heady youth to neoclassicism coming up to retirement. This building firmly belongs in the first camp. Two gable fronted blocks built of local rubble granite are joined by a single storey link. Each gable is distinctly treated. One is roughcast with sash windows; the other, tile hung with casement windows. This is the freest of free style Arts + Crafts. A deep wraparound verandah – now partially filled in on the entrance front – provides shelter in this exposed setting.

An extravagance of roof celebrates the chalet bungalow form. In place of the customary Gertrude Jekyll (rhymes with treacle) garden forever hand-in-glove with a Lutyens house are rocky outcrops and sandy dunes. Tranarossan House blends into the hillside, an organic recognition of place in shades of grey (there’s a good tradition of loving slate staying by the fireside). This is Ireland’s greatest chalet bungalow. The readership knew.

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Architecture Country Houses

Downings Donegal + Modernism

Above the Radar

Meekness and majesty, mistiness and mystery. Clinging onto the Atlantic coast, notwithstanding its tonal contextualism, this villa with the mildest of butterfly roofs, an angularity at odds with the contours of its setting, is a reminder that modernism once reached the furthest corners of the earth.

Categories
Country Houses Luxury

The Atlantic Drive Donegal + Downings

Existential and Pragmatic Reality

The Atlantic Drive Rosguill © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

So many peninsulae, so little time. Nowhere does the magnetic draw of Donegal pull more strongly than Downings and its radial route of suspense, The Atlantic Drive. Ethereal expanses of shining sand, at once quotidian and crystalline, measureless strands bordered by the foam lipped waves of a constantly shifting sea, dunes intermittently reflected in the pellucid waters, journeying mercies on borrowed time. Soon, the glooming will come, dimpsey hour. We were like those who dream.

The Atlantic Drive Downings © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Atlantic Drive Donegal © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Atlantic Drive Rosguill Peninsula © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Atlantic Drive County Donegal © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Architecture Country Houses People

Fréthun Town Hall Hauts de France + Mairie

Xanadu in the Boondocks

Frethun Hauts de France © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Town hall as château. The Hôtel de Ville of the Fréthunois and Fréthunoises is terribly smart. Under the direction of the recently appointed Mayor Guy Heddebaux, it’s become even smarter: “We’ve built a square in front of the Town Hall to make the heart of the village more pleasant, more attractive.” It’s the best landscaping scheme imaginable – grassy cobbled parking spaces and brassy trellis artwork.

Frethun School © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Frethun Mairie Landscaping © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Frethun Mairie Lodge © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Frethun Town Hall © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Frethun Hotel de Ville Landscaping © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Frethun Hotel de Ville © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Architecture Country Houses

Fréthun Farm Hauts de France + Summer

Gîte Alors

Storied lives, crowded with incident. There’s always respite in a shadow place of contrasts.

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Architecture Country Houses

Blessed + Fréthun Hauts de France

A Strong Tower

The righteous.

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Country Houses Fashion Hotels Luxury People

Royal Ascot + The Duchess of Cambridge

Berserk in the Berkshire

The Season is in full swing. Tuesday morning of Summer Solstice week: a chauffeur driven Merc screeches to a halt outside The House of Lavender’s Blue. Closing one’s own car door is so last century. And really, with train strikes all too common these days a uniformed driver is a necessity not a luxury. After gliding past Wentworth Estate, sailing by Guards Polo Club then gaping at the largest white portico ever facing a roundabout somewhere in Sunningdale, noon Champagne is on ice for us at the Royal Berkshire Hotel. Bling to king.

A suite of Rollers soon pulls up beside the lawn to whisk us all – a highly fashionable set is emerging – off to the Royal Enclosure of Royal Ascot. Today is The Queen Anne Stakes, the opening contest of the five day meeting. Three maids stand to attention welcoming us into our double penthouse private box. Ding-a-ling. You can get the staff these days! Ollie Dabbous and other Michelin star studded chefs are going the distance at this year’s meeting. A hot and warm and cold buffet begins, platefuls of luxury signifiers:

  • Lavazza coffee
  • Beetroot and Beefeater Gin cured salmon, tonic jelly
  • Goat’s cheese, red onion and squash tart
  • Ginger and soy roasted salmon, pineapple relish
  • Aubergine and courgette involtini, basil pesto
  • Hot smoked trout, pickled celeriac, saffron potato, fennel
  • Warm Jersey Royal potatoes
  • Grilled squash, caramelised onion, broccoli
  • Tomato tartare, marinated Tomberries and baby mozzarella
  • Shredded summer salad, balsamic dressing
  • Traditional trifle, lemon posset, Cassis torte, chocolate Mogador, English strawberries, pouring cream
  • Duttamor, Winslade, Trufflyn and Blue Monday cheeses, apricot and ginger jelly, selection of artisan biscuits
  • Lavazza coffee and Charbonnel + Walker petit fours served in miniature top hats

The clock strikes two: it’s time for the Royal Procession. The Royal Landaus led by four Windsor Greys commence their stately journey along the celebrated Straight Mile. Since 1825, this procession has signalled the start of the Royal Meeting. The Coldstream Guards play the National Anthem. We stand to attention on our double penthouse private box terrace, joyously waving our Union Jacks.

Half an hour later, the First Race is off. With a total race value of £600,000 The Queen Anne Stakes naturally attracts the best milers in Europe and beyond. Meanwhile, we’re given free rein in our double penthouse private box. By mid afternoon, the party is in full throttle. The terrace is now an impromptu catwalk for models and influencers and influential models jockeying for position, snapping, being snapped and snapping being snapped. A blazing turn of foot isn’t confined to the racecourse below. We’re all winners: check out thoroughbred Lady Tori Nash mid strut; no dodgepots here! The wealth of millinery and feast of floristry has gone to everyone’s heads. Literally. That, plus the haze of topped up coupes and flutes and tulips. Afternoon tea is served:

  • Fortnum + Mason tea infusions
  • Smoked salmon, lemon crème fraîche, egg and chive, cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches
  • Buttermilk scones, Highgrove preserve and Cornish clotted cream
  • Chocolate wagon wheel, mixed berry tart, pistachio and rose financier, honey and lemon Madeleine, red velvet cake

Lord Glitters wins The Queen Anne Stakes in a thrilling finish! Did we mention we’re watching the race from a double penthouse private box? It’s so hard to prise ourselves away from this party in the sky but really we should hit our stride. Our favourite soprano Eves fills the big screens, belting out an aria. “What feathers in our hats!” Eves later laughs. Frankie Dettori, the Royal Meeting’s most successful current jockey, rides by. It would be rude to keep Ben our chauffeur waiting but it would be even ruder not to meet our future queen. Here she comes, winning the style race hands down, real pedigree, what a beauty, her eyes sparkling under a flying saucer hat. Such grace! Such poise! Such fragrance! Her majestic Royal Highness, Catherine the Great. It’s a photo finish followed by a bloody sunset over The House of Lavender’s Blue.

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Art Country Houses

Giusti Gardens Verona + Summer

A Maze

“The Giusti Gardens are very simple and rather English!” exclaims architect John O’Connell. “So beautiful, not heroic, just green. They have lots of trees, paths and shade, and were much admired by Mozart and Goethe though not at the same time.” What did Johann Wolfgang von Goethe have to say on Giusti Gardens in his Italian Journey? “… where huge cypresses soar into the air like awls. The yew trees, which are clipped to a point, are probably imitations of this magnificent product of nature… judging from the date when the garden was planted, these cypresses must already have reached such a great age.” Diana and Apollo | a grotto and a belvedere | a precipice and a pavilion | a labyrinth and a tower | lizards and lemons. Amazing.

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Architecture Country Houses Luxury

The Summer House Hampshire + Summer

Strawberry Thrill

In season, The Summer House comes into its own. It’s time for Earl Grey in the octagonal Gothick dining room with the French doors flung open to the allure of summer.

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Country Houses

Barnes Gap + Vinegar Hill Tyrone

Far West of the Bann

Barnes Gap Sperrin Mountains © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

They’re Northern Ireland’s answer to Wuthering Heights. The Sperrins are the Province’s largest mountain range. Barnes Gap is one of many scenic highlights: a waterless fjord. Spring lambs dot the intensely green fields of Vinegar Hill above.

Vinegar Hill Tyrone © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

It’s a remote location and a population drop of 10 percent over the last 100 years in County Tyrone has only added to the sense of isolation.

Vinegar Hill Sperrin Mountains © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Sperrins get their name from the Irish Gaelic phrase “Na Speiríní” which means “spurs of rock”. It may sound like a person’s name but “Barnes” actually means “gap” in Irish. Barnes Gap: a linguistic representation of the Province’s dual heritage.

Barnes Gap Tyrone © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Design Developers People Restaurants

Pitzhanger Manor Ealing London + Anish Kapoor

Master of Mirrors, Master of Light

Pitzhanger Manor Party Relaunch © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

It’s the GSM rule. The thicker the invitation card, the better the party. The relaunch of Pitzhanger Manor proved the point. Sir John Soane’s former country house – post a £12 million facelift (or rather major surgical enhancement by Jestico + Whiles working with Julian Harrap Architects) – on a stormy night was filled with lights and flowers and music and guests.

Pitzhanger Manor Party Column © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“Lord Lieutenant, Lords, Ladies and Gentlemen,” began Sir Sherard Cowper-Coles, Chair of The Trustees. “The house was built 220 years ago. The library, 80 years ago. The garden room, three years ago.” He spoke in the garden room now rebranded Soane’s Kitchen. You guessed, it’s a café by day, venue by night. Designed by Jestico + Whiles, Soane’s Kitchen is an elegantly understated pavilion set in the walled garden.

Pitzhanger Manor Party Eagle © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pitzhanger Manor Party © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pitzhanger Manor Party Lantern © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pitzhanger Manor Party London © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pitzhanger Manor Party Ealing © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pitzhanger Manor Party Light © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pitzhanger Manor Party Chinese Wallpaper © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pitzhanger Manor Party Chinoiserie Wallpaper © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pitzhanger Manor Party Piers Gough © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Sir Sherard continued, “Every house is unique. There are degrees of uniqueness. Artfully antinomian eclecticism? That’s Pitzhanger. Not for Soane the menu de siècle. He dined à la carte. Pitzhanger is a cocktail of Georgian and gothic eccentricity. Austere and extravagant.” He praised the artist who hand painted the spectacular upper drawing room wallpaper: “Alistair Peoples, champion of Chinoiserie wallpaper!”

Pitzhanger Manor Party Anish Kapoor © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The inaugural exhibition in the library turned art gallery is by Anish Kapoor. Sir Sherard acknowledged, “Anish Kapoor sets a very high standard of excitement and artistic imagination.” The former Foreign Secretary’s Special Representative to Afghanistan and Pakistan ended by saying, “Pitzhanger is at the intersection of art and architecture and design. It is Soane’s enduring legacy. Two centuries on, he stands so tall. Pitzhanger – the jewel in the crown of the rapidly reviving Queen of the Suburbs! A wonderfully uplifting zig in a world too full of zags.”

Pitzhanger Manor Party Anish Kapoor Exhibition © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Anish spoke on the “amber melancholic Turneresque light” of Pitzhanger’s stained glass windows. “It’s like a fading yellow page of ethereal importance,” he observed. “I tried to play with it too. I do what I do. Let the conversation happen if it must.” The night ended well: a goody bag of colourful macaroons courtesy of Coutts.

Pitzhanger Manor Party Anish Kapoor Art © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

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Architects Architecture Country Houses

Castle Dobbs Carrickfergus Antrim + Sir Charles Lanyon

Two Faced

Castle Ward is the most famous example of architectural schizophrenia in Ulster. High street bank neoclassicism one front; Strawberry Hill Gothick, the other. The two main elevations are stylistically divorced from each other. The two styles of Castle Dobbs may be closer relatives in taste but intertwine on the same elevations. It’s (likely) an early 18th century James Gibbs Pattern Book house with (likely) mid 19th century Sir Charles Lanyon accretions creeping round it like ivy.

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Architecture Country Houses Luxury

The Summer House Hampshire + Winter

Off Season

The Summer House Hampshire Drive © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

So it’s Royal Circle seats at the Glyndebourne performance of Jules Massenet’s Cendrillon (Cinderella). The French composer’s comic opera celebrating the power of fantasy is a blend of colourful characters, generous melodies and sumptuous orchestral textures in bewitchingly heady arrangements. Director Fiona Shaw adds contemporary twists – and laughs. Poor Cinderella really is in for a rocky ride with her selfie loving halfsisters, bottom enhanced stepmother and gender fluid prince! It’s kooky, frothy, rococo and full of familial folly all at once. And a lot more entertaining than the Kardashians. Who said the countryside is boring? Next stop The Summer House. Sometimes one season is better than Four Seasons.

The Summer House Hampshire Bridge © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire River © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Lawn © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Orchard © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Mist © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Plants © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Landscape © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Terrace © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Party © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Bay © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Hostess Mirror © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

The Summer House Hampshire Detail © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“There are two types of folly. One… is spread through the world by the cruel furies who sow serpents in the hearts of men. But there is another type, very different from the first, which brings delight. It is a certain fond delusion that takes over the soul, makes it forget all the troubles, all the worries, all the disappointments of life and plunges it into a torrent of pleasure.” Desiderius Erasmus, Praise of Folly, 1509

The Summer House Hampshire Stonework © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“England – southern England, probably the sleekest landscape in the world.” George Orwell, Homage to Catalonia, 1938

The Summer House Hampshire Interior © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“The folly, particularly in Britain, is an attitude, a statement, a style, a fashion, a passion, a different world.” Gwyn Headley + Wim Meulenkamp, Follies, Grottoes + Garden Buildings, 1999

The Summer House Chapel Hampshire © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley