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SABBATH PLUS ONE Cats + Neve Tzedek Tel Aviv

Angels Unaware

“Flowers appear on the earth; the season of singing has come, the cooing of doves is heard in our land.” Song of Songs 2:12

The boundary lines have fallen in very pleasant places. Really, it’s the ultimate urban oasis full of fluttering sparrows and darting swallows between distant oaks. Resident tycoons occupy swathes of this prized real estate. Between the many mansions flow bougainvillea festooned rose and vine laneways, riots of colour and love amidst herbage and verdure. Acacia and camphire and poinciana and weeping fig trees camouflage gaily painted architecture. “Pink and saffron mallows, and the yellow and white daisies, and the violet and snow of the drooping cyclamen, and the gold of the genista” visualises Henry Van Dyke in Out-of-Doors in the Holy Land (1908). Colette captures horticultural wonder in Chéri, (1920), “Walking along in the shade of the acacia trees, between trellised roses and huge clumps of rhododendrons in full blaze.” And again in Gigi (1944): “Such a beautiful garden … such a beautiful garden.” She romanticises in The Cat (1944), “Above the withered stump draped with climbing plants, a flight of bees over the ivy flowers gave out a solemn cymbal note, the idenitical note of so many summers.” In Save Me the Waltz (1932), Zelda Fitzgerald’s protagonist Alabama cries, “I love little trees, arborvitae and juniper.”

Neve Tzedek was established in 1887, predating the official founding of Tel Aviv by over two decades. “Tz is pronounced as one letter sounding a bit like an ‘S’,” clarifies our driver Yaron Reuveny. “Neve Tzedek is beside the famous Carmel Market which is really trendy with fast food bars. It’s really good to hang out there in the evenings. There’s a good vibe!” Neve Tzedek was the first Jewish quarter to be built outside Jaffa. Fragrant with the perfumed aroma of myrrh and aloes and cassia, coloured by the turquoise of jacaranda and tamarisk and wisteria, Neve Tzedek is for the rich and fabulous and their feline friends (coffee loving techno music mad Israelis set the world record for cats-to-humans ratio). This enclave simply oozes unforced charm: streets named desire. Marco Koskas’ character Juliette in Goodbye Paris, Shalom Tel Aviv (2020) immediately adopts a cat called Jean-Pierre upon settling in Tel Aviv. Henri Cole opines in Orphic Paris (2016), “Cats are cats, briefly put, and their world is the world of cats through and through.” Truman Capote (1948) noticed in Other Voices, Other Rooms that they have “tawny astonished eyes”. No doubt Gertrude Stein would add, “Cats are cats are cats.” Quite so. Cats: the exquisite link in the Great Chain of Being. Colette’s The Cat once more, “The zone of shadow … the zone of shadow.”

“‘In that day each of you will invite your neighbour to sit under your vine and fig tree,’ declares the Lord Almighty.” Zechariah 3:10

(Extract with alternative imagery from the bestseller SABBATH PLUS ONE Jerusalem and Tel Aviv).

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Parc Morceau Paris +

Oh Em Gigi

“You have to live near the Parc Monceau,” opined Nancy Mitford. “Well, they live up by the Parc Monceau. We must all meet up one day soon.” David Ben-Gurion, Israel’s founding Prime Minister, established his Paris headquarters at Hôtel Le Royal Monceau last century. Parisienne Maud Rabin remarks, “It’s so beautiful; lots of movies have been made here.” The park is surrounded by gorgeous townhouses and apartment blocks with penthouses and attics catching glimpses over the high treeline of the flights of fancy immortalised by Claude Monet.

The public park was established by Phillippe d’Orléans Duc de Chartres, a cousin of King Louis XVI, following the Duc’s marriage to the Princesse de Penthièvre. He commissioned the writer and painter Louis Carrogis (better known as Carmontelle) to design the gardens – they still retain a painterly quality. Carmontelle subcontracted the Duc’s architect Bernard Poyet and a German landscape architect Etickhausen to design a series of follies in an informal layout. An Egyptian pyramid on a lawn and a Roman colonnade reflected in a pond of waterlilies and an English bridge over a stream continue to delight visitors.

It’s not Paris if there’s no hint of Haussmannia. Monsieur Georges Eugène of course managed a spot of 19th remodelling of the park under Napoléon III. Set in an exclusive quartier of the 8th Arrondisement, wealthy Jewish banking families such as the Camondos, Rothschilds and Péreires established residences skirting the perimeter of the park. You really do have to live near the Parc Monceau.

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La Divine Comédie Demeure Privée + Spa Avignon

A Sense of Theatre

Rooftop View La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

A private paradise. A secret world. A hidden kingdom. Cloistered glory. The very essence of exclusivity. If luxury could be bottled… heavenly scent. A multiple epiphanic realisation of complete beauty and tranquillity. Not even a Gallic Frances Hodgson Burnett could dream up the discreet walled splendour of La Divine Comédie. Although Colette comes pretty close in Gigi: “Such a beautiful garden… such a beautiful garden.” Its only outward expression, an enigmatic public face, is an ivied arched wooden gate at the end of a laneway off Rue Sainte Catherine or is it Rue des Bains or Rue Saluces? Such is the labyrinth that is old town Avignon. Corrugations of sunshine ripple across the lawn and climb over a card table. Gigi again, “What about a game of piquet?”

Rooftops View La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

“We called it La Divine Comédie after the many theatrical connections of Avignon,” explains co owner Amaury de Villoutreys, a former financier. There are two theatres – Théâtre Golovine and Théâtre du Chêne Noir – within Galilean binoculars view of the house. A diorama of a stage in the dining room reinforces the theme. Distinguished architectural historian Dr Roderick O’Donnell reckons, “As Chaucer is to English, so Dante is the father of spoken Italian. Donald Tusk, President of the European Council, referenced Dante when he quipped there is a ‘special place in hell’ for certain politicians.” This could well be the beginning of always.

View La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Trees La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Terrace La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pool La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Garden Pool La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Swimming Pool La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bench La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Urn La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pond La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bust La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Table La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Swag La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bamboos La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Night Lantern La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Lantern La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Perspective La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Garden View La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Exterior La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Orangery La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Upper Floors La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Shutters La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Eaves La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pavilion Table La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pavilion La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pavilion Bust La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Pavilion Coronets La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Staircase Hall La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bannister La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Stairs La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Night Time Stairs La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Landing La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Landing Table La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Staircase Rooflight La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Attic Stairs La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dining Room La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Elephant La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Horse La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Taxidermy La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Chess La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Mantelpiece La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Statue La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Shadow La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Sculpture La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Drawing Room Door La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom Diorama La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom Chandelier La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom Boat La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bedroom Mantelpiece La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Bathroom La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dog La Divine Comedie Hotel © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dog La Divine Comedie Avignon Provence © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Dog La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Cat La Divine Comedie Avignon © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

Five guest suites breathe and stretch and spread and sprawl across three uncrowded bedroom floors, louvred shutters flung open to the birds tweeting leaves rustling church bells peeling. The Cat by Colette, “Above the withered stump draped with climbing plants, a flight of bees over the ivy flowers gave out a solemn cymbal note, the identical note of so many summers.” Last used as a school, the stone house – dating from the 18th and 19th centuries – is so tall yet not as tall as its smothering of ancient plane trees. Remnants of the 14th century palace of Cardinal Amédée de Saluces, ghostly tracery of the past, are imprinted on the garden wall. A 15 metre swimming pool lies hidden behind dense bamboo woodland. The perfumed aroma of musk and civet intensifies with the heat of a lost summer afternoon. Piquet time.

Cat La Divine Comedie Avignon Provence © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley

La Divine Comédie is the outcome of a revelatory seven year conversion and restoration programme. The interiors radiate confident good taste: the other co owner Gilles Jauffret is a leading decorator. Antique pieces, vintage finds and contemporary artworks are mixed with bravura under rococo’d ceilings. There’s an elephant in the (sitting) room. Pictures in the staircase hall are hung as close as stamps in the style beloved by Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors. Light selectively permeates the spaces through internal French doors and rooflights. The Cat once more: “The zone of shadow… the zone of shadow…” Persian siblings Gaston and Simone curl playfully on matching grey chairs. Thédule the Weinheimer blends in with the suede cover of a garden seat while alfresco quail’s eggs breakfast is served. Such pedigree.

Cat La Divine Comedie Avignon Hotel © Lavender's Blue Stuart Blakley