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The Pollocks + Mountainstown House Navan Meath

Unbright Light

“Mountainstown House has been the subject of a number of vague and inaccurate accounts published over the last few decades. With the aid of newly discovered historical documents, it’s time to set the story straight,” declared the Issey Miyake paper trousered 24 year old Associate Editor of Ulster Architect with all the confidence of youth. The June 1998 article continues, “Bruce Campbell, Professor of Medieval Economic History at Queen’s University Belfast, compares Mountainstown to Eltham Lodge, an early Dutch style house in Kent. It has similar giant pilasters supporting a pediment which breaks into the hipped roof. Eltham Lodge in turn is a loose facsimile of the Mauritshuis in The Hague.” And so with the wisdom of Alberto corduroyed middle age, the definitive story draws to a conclusion.

It’s a doll’s house on steroids. So pretty. John O’Connell, RIAI accredited Conservation Practice Grade I architect and founder of John J O’Connell Architects established in 1978 in Dublin, calls Mountainstown House, “A Baroque box due to the use of the giant order. And this recalls not only Castle Durrow, County Laois, but refers back to the work of hero Michelangelo who used this device for the first time at The Capitoline in Rome. The presence of the dormer windows is rare, as often they were not used and decayed. It is also an essay in ‘duality resolved’, although there may have been remodelling when the house was fluently extended in the early 19th century. The design and the adornment of urns to the entrance door is very confident. The date looks to be 1740, and I would say, not by Richard Castle.” Around the windows the house makes a solid frame.

In his 1988 Guide to Irish Country Houses, Mark Bence-Jones provides this summary, “An early 18th century house of two storeys over a high plinth, with a charming air of bucolic Baroque. The six bay front is adorned with giant Ionic pilasters, two supporting the pediment and one at either side; but they have neither architrave nor frieze. The Venetian entrance doorways is enriched with Ionic pilasters, urns on the entablatures, a keystone with a finial which breaks through the string course above; in front of it is a grand if somewhat rustic perron with a central balustrade and ironwork railings to the flights of steps. In the centre of the four bay side elevation – where the windows in the lower storey have been replaced by two Wyatt windows – is a little floating pediment; ‘mini pediment’ is perhaps the only word for it. This side of the house is prolonged by a three sided projection, with timber mullioned windows in 17th century style. There is a dormered attic in the high roof, which is also lit by a lunette window in the main pediment.”

The great recorder of country houses seems to have missed that the four bay side elevation is actually replicated on the far side of the projection. That’s because the original 18th century house was doubled in size a century later. This makes the side elevation twice as long as the entrance front. Up to eaves level the side elevation, or really it should be called the garden front due to its prominence, is symmetrical. The later four bays have a lower gentler sloped roof and no mini pediment. Vintage photographs show most of the ground floor windows had plate glass sashes, the height of Victorian modernity.

Mountainstown House gets a mention in Maurice Craig’s 1976 Classic Irish Houses of the Middle Size, “This is a somewhat naïve but charming building, its giant Ionic order lacking an architrave and frieze. The doorcase and steps, however, are well designed and accomplished in execution, both in carved stone and wrought iron.” These various descriptions would suggest that it is the design of a master builder rather than any of the well known architects operating in Ireland at that time.

Desmond Fitzgerald, The Knight of Glin, wrote the introduction to the Christie’s 1988 auction of contents catalogue. “The entrance front of Mountainstown is a charmingly naïve composition with a giant order of four Ionic pilasters supporting a central pediment and the roof. It lacks an architrave and frieze as Mark Bence-Jones observes. The lack of these architectural members is not untypical of Irish handling. For instance, Irish tables of the 18th century frequently have their tops unceremoniously dumped on their heavily carved aprons without architrave, frieze or even a cornice. Mountainstown’s cornice is well defined and breaks on either side of the pediment. A mini pediment with semicircular lunette echoing the one on the entrance front decorates the southern side façade.” He agrees with John O’Connell on a date of around 1740 for the original block. It’s worth noting the pilasters are unfluted.

The last Knight of Glin continues, “The house was built by the Gibbons family. The interior of the 1740 section of the house has a fine staircase with turned Doric banisters and walls decorated with plaster panels. This leads upstairs to a handsome landing also decorated with plaster panels, tabernacle frames and an enriched cornice. By the end of the 18th century the Gibbins family was still there as ‘Gibbons Esq’ appears on the roadmap of the district in The Post Chaise Companion of 1778. Tradition has it that the Pollock family had leased Mountainstown for many years in the 18th century, but it was not until about 1796 that the property was finally sold by the daughter of Samuel Gibbons, the last of his line, to John Pollock.”

He confirms John Pollock was a successful solicitor in Dublin as well as an agent for the Duke of Devonshire and Marquess of Downshire. The Pollocks had been in the linen trade in Newry for three generations. They descend from John Pollock (the Christian name would continue!) who came from Scotland in 1732. The solicitor retained his townhouse on Mountjoy Square. He married Hannah Clarke, daughter of a London banker, and they added the south facing wing with its pentagonal drawing room and adjoining dining room (the latter the largest room in the house and at 9.7 metres wide by 6.7 metres deep the average size of a two bedroom apartment). The drawing room has an acanthus leaf frieze and geometric plasterwork ceiling. The dining room has a dentilled cornice and large ceiling rose of two concentric ovals containing entwined garlands plasterwork surrounding a central arrangement of acanthus leaves. A Kilkenny black marble chimneypiece faces the windowed wall.

Subsequent generations would excel at agriculture. A letter dated 16 August 1800 from John Pollock to Lieutenant Colonel Edward Littlehales reported on the poor harvest and the likelihood of food shortages. He ominously commented on partial potato crop failures compounded by shortage of bread corn. John expressed concern that the poor had fewer resources to fall back on such as the sale of livestock due to previous shortages in 1799. He approved of the stopping of distilleries.

In 2007 the Navan and District Historical Society summarised the line of succession: “John Pollock died in December 1826 leaving an only son Arthur, born 1785. He spent much of his early years travelling Europe. Arthur was High Sheriff of County Meath in 1809 and died in 1846. Arthur was succeeded by his son John Osborne George Pollock who was born in 1812. He was a Justice of the Peace and a Deputy Lieutenant of County Meath. He serves as High Sheriff in 1854. John died in 1871 and was succeeded by his sons John Naper George and Arthur Henry Taylor. John married Anna Josephine Barrington of Limerick. Dying in 1905, John was succeeded by his eldest son, also named John, born in 1896. Anna lived until 1947. John served in the North Irish Horse in World War I and died in 1966.” Mountainstown would pass on to his grandson Johnny.

Dr Anthony Malcomson sorted and listed the Pollock papers when he was Chief Executive of the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland. This shed new light on the evolution of the architecture. Family history indicates that the central block most likely dates from the late 1720s and was altered four decades later. So an estimate of 1740 lies in the middle of these two build periods! Anthony notes, “In 1727 Richard, the only son of Samuel Gibbons of ‘Knock, County Meath’, was married. Richard’s address is not referred to in the marriage settlement but by 1729 he was recorded as being ‘of Mountainstown’.”

He explains, “In 1727 Richard’s wife Anne, a daughter of Henry Richardson of Ballykinler in County Down, brought the fairly large dowry of £2,000. This money was likely invested in the building of the original Mountainstown. It is probable that the house had only one staircase – the stone stairs lit by the most northern bay of the façade which run from basement to attic.” These stairs would later be relegated for servants’ use. Their son Samuel seems to have reworked the house around 1760, creating the combined entrance and staircase hall which occupies the middle third of the footprint of the ground and first floors of the main block.

“The plasterwork of the hall and staircase appears to date from this remodelling,” observes Anthony, “not just stylistically but because the original house would probably have had wooden panelling. Marble fireplaces with brass dog grates were inserted in the library and small dining room at this time. Upon acquisition of the estate, the Pollocks enlarged and aggrandised the Gibbons’ house. Another major reworking took place from 1811 to 1813. Arthur Hill Cornwallis enlarged the wing to provide dressing rooms upstairs. Access to the bedrooms was provided by a staircase ascending from the half landing of the main staircase but not in continuation of the lower flight of stairs. The canted bay window as well as the Wyatt windows and Regency plasterwork in the dining room, drawing room and small dining room likely date from this time. This concluded the building history of Mountainstown, apart from the addition of the single storey billiard room wing to the right of the entrance front in approximately 1870.” The billiard room wing linked the lower single storey without basement diary to the main block.

Back when the house was in the hands of Johnny and Diana Pollock, over supper in the original basement kitchen Diana commented, “It wasn’t easy selling many of the contents. But you can always buy back furniture and paintings in the future. Once you sell land it’s – well it’s gone. We kept the pieces with the closest links to the house.” Auction highlights included an Irish George IV mahogany freestanding bookcase elevated by lyre supports; a Regency gilt and ebonised cabinet on a stand incorporating a Roman cabinet inlaid with amethyst and lapis lazuli; an oil painting by the English artist Thomas Walker Bretland, 1802 to 1874, of a groom and two chestnut hunters of the Meath Hunt; and an Irish Flight and Barr Worcester topographical garniture de cheminée circa 1810.

Together the couple ploughed the funds raised from the 1988 auction into restoring the house. Georgian type glazing bars were inserted into the plate glass sashes. Steps were added from the drawing room down into the garden. “Eventually we would like to reinstate the glazing bars in the front door fanlight and sidelights,” remarked Johnny. Their Doberman and Springer Spaniel were fellow guests in the kitchen. “My sister Valerie Montgomery lives at Benvarden in County Antrim,” Diana said. “Another sister, the artist Ros Harvey, lives in Malin in County Donegal. Dorinda Percival, now Lady Dunleath, would join us for parties here. We would dance all night in the dining room!” He added, “The model village of Bessbrook in County Down was founded in 1759 by my ancestor the linen merchant John Pollock. It was named after his wife Elizabeth or ‘Bess’. Their son bought Mountainstown.” Johnny and Diana also let the estate as a film location.

“The film September was shot here in 1995. The house was full of actors!” related Diana. “Jacqueline Bisset, Mariel Hemingway, Virginia McKenna, Michael Fox …” Anna Cropper and Jenny Agutter too. “The director even temporarily refaced our wooden kitchen cupboards with cream coloured panels.” County Meath doubles as the Scottish Highlands in this drama. “London” looks suspiciously like Dun Laoghaire although the real Dorchester Hotel in Mayfair does show up. Leixlip Castle in County Kildare is the other architectural star of September. Finnstown Castle Hotel, County Dublin, appears as a country house hotel. Enniskerry in County Wicklow acts as the local village. The storyline is a Pandora’s box.

In 1997 a notebook of payments made to workmen involved in the finishing touches of the rebuilding was discovered. The jottings were made by Arthur Hill Cornwallis Pollock and date from 1813. “Mr Kinmouth clerk of works £10. Master carpenter £10. Carpenters £5. Plasterers £2 to £5. Stuccodores £2. Painters £2.” The list of plasterers includes a George Bossi, presumably a relative of Pietro Bossi, the Italian master of stucco and scagliola inlay marble chimneypieces.

Mountainstown House has 1,000 square metres of accommodation over four floors: the basement, ground floor, first floor and attic. That’s 10 times the size of an average three bedroom house in Ireland. The basement contains those vaulted ceiling country house necessities such as a shoot room, billiard room, wine cellar and gym. Four main rooms in the original block are accessed off the entrance hall: the library, small dining room, study and playroom. There are six principal bedrooms on the first floor including the master bedroom which mirrors the plan of the pentagonal drawing room below (the same width 6.7 metres and 1.8 metres shallower at 5.7 metres) and similarly has carpet trailing casement windows. The only transom and mullion windows in the house, they are probably similar to the original Dutch style fenestration of the early 18th century house which were soon replaced by 12 pane sash windows. Three further bedrooms around a central sitting room fill the attic floor. Six bathrooms are spread over the upper two floors. Like other Irish country houses such as Clandeboye in County Down, the main elevations of Mountainstown – east and south – are perpendicular to one another. The west and north elevations overlook the sprawling stable yard.

Mountainstown was passed down to John Arthur Rollo Pollock, Johnny and Diana’s elder son, in 2004. Arthur moved in with his wife Atalanta and their three children. They continued the neverending restoration work, installing a new Scavolini kitchen in the remodelled former billiard room wing and painting the staircase hall fawn. Johnny and Diana had inserted appropriate sash windows into this wing and the adjoining former dairy: the kitchen is the only room to be east-west dual aspect. Bathrooms were refitted and gardens rejuvenated.

It all became too great a financial burden. In 2015 they put in on the market with Savills for €4.15 million. The asking price was reduced to €2.75 million five years later before – like Glin Castle in County Limerick and Drenagh in County Londonderry – being taken off the market. Atalanta notes, “Samuel Gibbons who built the house – after he died an impression was taken of his face and it was embossed onto the ceiling in the hall. There’s a wild boar image which appears throughout the interior. The story is – and it may well be true – that the King of France was being charged by a wild board and Lieutenant Pollock killed it with an arrow. So he was given a crest – the family crest. Mountainstown has so much personality because you see this motif of a wild boar recurring all over the house.” The Pollock family crest is still displayed on the gilded pelmets over the library windows.

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House of Tides Restaurant Newcastle-upon-Tyne +

Riding the Wave

“And the place where new life must start – this may be a surprise, because nobody seems to care two hoots for it at the moment – is the quayside. Whichever way you come to Newcastle, get down to the quayside first,” orders Ian Nairn in his 1967 guide Nairn’s Towns. We obey and not just because the city’s leading restaurant is on the quayside in a Grade I Listed former house opposite the Grade II* Listed Wetherspoon’s pub which was once a house and attached warehouse. Both date from the 16th century. Almost six decades after Nairn’s Towns was first published, the quayside is now a much loved tourist and cultural asset.

The House of Tides was launched a decade ago by husband and wife team Kenny and Abbie Atkinson. He’s now one of the north of England’s most acclaimed chefs. Past roles include a stint as Head Chef of Seaham Hall, Durham, then owned by Von Essen Hotels. “We didn’t want our restaurant to be in a glass box or near bars and clubs which is quite difficult in Newcastle,” relates Kenny. An historic merchant’s dwelling jammed against the gargantuan Tyne Bridge is definitely not a glass box and Wetherspoon’s is the only nearby bar. Clubland has never quite ventured this direction.

The pedestrian route from Newcastle Railway Station to the restaurant is full of intrigue and surprise. Tyne Bridge arches its way across the grounds of Newcastle Castle splitting the keep from the gatehouse. There were no Conservation Areas in Victorian times. Moot Hall is one of the visual treats en route: a Greek Revival courthouse soon to be converted into a hotel by the Gainford Group which owns the jolly decent County Hotel opposite the station. Completed in 1812, architect John Stokoe gave the entrance front a tetrastyle fluted Doric portico and the river facing front a hexastyle portico. Ian Nairn states, “John Stokoe makes the official masters of the style – Smirke, Wilkins and so on – look like pallid pedants.” Next to Tyne Bridge, steps called Long Stairs, bordered by overgrown vegetation and the backs of houses, descend to the quayside. Long Stairs feel a little isolated, a bit ghostly, a tad eery, even by daytime. Later, as dusk falls, orbs will appear.

First impressions of House of Tides – and lasting memories – are of rustic robustness. The three and four storey block has a stone faced ground floor, reddish brown brick upper floors and a pantiled roof. Some of the vertically proportioned sash windows have been reduced in size to casements leaving the original lintels charmingly floating like architectural eyebrows. Inside, the ground floor is one long open bar with informal seating. The restaurant occupies a similar space upstairs.

Rather than being hidden away, the kitchen faces onto the street. Its location adds to the drama of servers parading upstairs to the first floor restaurant, then standing to attention before waiters relieve them of their plates. That’s about as formal as it gets. “Are you enjoying the chilled vibe?” asks our waiter before methodically listing the ingredients as each course of the tasting menu arrives. “How do you remember all that?” we enquire. “I’ve no idea!” he laughs and summarises how the penultimate course, Buttermilk (pear, celery, lemon verbena), is a “journey from savoury to sweet”. A segue on the tongue. The mild vinegary tang jogs our memories of traditional pudding in the Aachen Town Hall cellar brasserie.

The first three courses – Gougère (butternut squash, miso), Goat’s Cheese Parfait (curried granola, rye crackers), Crab (spiced shrimps, crumpet) – set the scene. Refined unfussy food; accessible fine dining. A clarity of culinary vision matched by the white, off white and cream décor complementing the rusticity of the slanted windows and slanted timber floors and slanted plasterwork laden beams. Sourdough (malt butter, toasted yeast) is straight from the baker’s oven. Seatrout (kombu, trout roe, dill, dashi), Cod (mussels, Grelot onions sea herbs) and Monkfish (celeriac, onion, persillade) are three subtly sexy fish dishes. Kenny’s twists of tradition include gooseberry ketchup and wasabi ketchup. Blackberry Crémeux (apple, crème fraîche, meringue) has form and more. No wonder the restaurant snapped up its Michelin star just six months after opening.

“At House of Tides we believe our wine list is an extension of the ethos of the restaurant,” Kenny admits. “It is a collection of our favourite wines and reflects the tastes and passion of the people that have worked to put it together. Our ambition is to take you on a journey through the vineyards from around the world.” As Francophiles we are happy to go no further than across the Channel. A Peu Près Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, 2020, for the savouries. Vigneron Ardechois, Coteau St Giraud, Late Harvest Viognier, 2020, for the sweets. Below at street level, during the course of lunch the bollarded space in front of House of Tides has been carpeted yellow with the fall of autumn leaves.

After lunch we will climb back up Long Stairs to inspect the Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin designed needle spired St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral on the far side of the railway station. The organist is practising for a wedding. He plays two minutes of Franz Schubert’s Ave Maria, two of Johann Pachelbel’s Canon in D, Johann Sebastian Bach’s Jesu Joy of Man’s Desiring, César Franck’s Panis Angelicus, Richard Wagner’s Bridal Chorus and Ennio Morricone’s Gabriel’s Oboe. A musical tasting menu.

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St Mary’s Church + Stratton Park Micheldever Hampshire

Lord of the Dance

There are neither sharp right angles nor precisely shaped polygons in the domestic architecture of Micheldever – from Church Street to Duke Street and from Rock Lane to Sloe Lane. Timber framed thatched medieval cottages with wonky jettied upper floors wend and weave their way through this chocolate box village. The geometry and materiality of the Parish Church of St Mary, set back from Church Street in sylvan grounds, couldn’t be more different from its neighbours.

Behind the late Perpendicular stone tower of the church is an octagonal brick nave. Battlements over the tower; a hipped slate roof over the nave. There are earlier and later additions in between but these two components form one of the most extraordinary juxtapositions in English ecclesiastical architecture. The patron of the nave rebuilding was the banking Baring family who have two country estates nearby: The Grange and Stratton Park. The architect was George Dance the Younger.

The Barings used the same architect for Stratton Park which was completed in 1806, two years ahead of the nave. George Dance remodelled an existing house in a forceful Greek Revival style. An imposing unfluted Doric portico anchored the nine bay main front into the ground with a misleading appearance of permanence. The first floor was treated as a piano nobile with taller windows. The ground floor was like a raised basement and the second floor like an attic. A generous void to window proportion added to the sense of massiveness of the stuccoed brick exterior. In 1963 owner John Baring, 7th Baron Ashburton, demolished the house. The portico still stands and a modernist brick and glass house was built behind it.

This rearrangement had at least one admirer. “Country houses are seldom built today in the grand manner,” opined Michael Webb in the 12 January 1967 edition of Country Life, “and when they are the result is usually a dispiriting pastiche of an archaic style … The old Stratton Park was built in 1801. It was never a distinguished building, and by the time Mr and Mrs Baring took it over, it was in bad repair and riddled with dry rot. They decided to demolish it and to commission a new house on the same site from Stephen Gardiner and Christopher Knight.”

He doesn’t dance around his subject: “Of the old house, only the impressive Doric portico was worth preserving, and this became the focus of the new composition: a much smaller house, entirely modern in concept and form, but integrated with a fragment of the old, as the new Coventry Cathedral relates to the bomb scarred ruin.”

Conservation architect John Redmill, who died in Dublin in 2024, stated, “Sir Francis Baring Baronet had employed George Dance to reconstruct his country seat at Stratton. This house, only five miles north of The Grange, was built for the Duke of Bedford in 1731 by John Sanderson, and had been partly demolished some years later. Dance had added the first strictly Greek Doric portico to an English country house – in scale and conception a neoclassical landmark.”

A sectional drawing and floor plan of the nave of St Mary’s Church are in the collection of the Sir John Soane Museum. Aged 15, Sir John’s first job was in the practice of George Dance the Younger. The section – complete with preacher in the pulpit – clearly shows the influence of the Ancient Roman Diocletian Baths. Clerestory Diocletian windows light congregants rather than swimmers. The floor plan introduces the executed corner arched recesses of the octagon.

Why a nave in the shape of a Celebrations box of chocolates? The architect was 63 (he would die aged 84 in 1825) when he designed the nave so it wasn’t an experimental flush of youth. It’s a shape that does improve internal visibility lines and there is precedent. In 1759, the main body of St Martin’s Church in Stoney Middleton, Derbyshire, was rebuilt in an octagonal form to the design of James Paine. That architect also incorporated Diocletian windows into the clerestory. A later example is William Rolfe’s 1821 Picturesque Gothic octagonal nave rising to a lantern at St James the Less, West Teignmouth, Devon. William Rolfe was a pupil of Sir John Soane. Octagonal naves are rare, even if not quite “unique” as each of these places of Christian worship claims on their websites.

Dancing in the morning when the world was young; dancing in the moon and the stars and the sun; dancing; back in London, dancing.

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The Grange Estate + Festival Alresford Hampshire

Antics Cono Sur

It’s one of the greatest flowerings of Greek Revival architecture in Europe. Yet it wasn’t purpose built: it’s a radical remodelling of an earlier building. This is the story of how a Restoration house in rural Hampshire became a cosmopolitan Greek temple (make that two Greek temples: minor and major) and after a few additions and subtractions evolved into a theatre and a theatrical backdrop for an opera festival.

“My father bought the estate in 1964,” recalls The Honourable Mark Baring on a private tour of the house (it’s not normally open to the public) accompanied by The Grange Festival’s Chief Operations Officer Michael Moody. “The Grange was out of Baring family ownership for 30 years. As a six year old I remember rooms with huge great pillars and bits of plaster in some disrepair. My father had a sale of contents which included the fireplaces. The stairs were sold and curiously they came back! My great grandfather had sold all the pictures.” In 1975 English Heritage took over the grey elephant that is The Grange. Mark has managed The Grange Estate, which his family own, since 2014.

He relates, “My father the 7th Baron Ashburton bought back the house and park for £157,000. That was for 660 acres and a crumbling house. Big houses were impossible to live in then under taxation rules. The house now gives so much to the feel of the opera!” Michael agrees: “It’s all about the setting in the landscape.” The inaugural opera festival was held on the estate in 1998. Four years later the orangery picture gallery (minor Greek temple) was opened as a theatre. Studio E were the architects for the conversion. The conservation architect was Dubliner John Redmill who smartly advised reinstating the Robert Smirke façade. “This reconnects the two temples,” John explains, “and acts as a screen to hide the modern building behind.”

When Mark’s ancestor Alexander Baring bought the estate in 1817 he commissioned Robert Smirke to add a single storey west wing and Charles Robert Cockerell to terminate the wing with a conservatory dining room (which would later become that orangery picture gallery). Robert was a pupil of George Dance the Younger and a leading light in the Greek Revival craze. His younger brother Sydney, also an architect, designed several Italianate villas stuccoed to the nines in Kensington Palace Gardens, London.

The main block of The Grange (major Greek temple) is the work of architect William Wilkins. In 1804 then owner Henry Drummond appointed the trailblazing Greek Revivalist to transform his Restoration house into an English Acropolis. The five bay fluted Doric portico (which swallows up the entire east elevation) is based on the Temple of Hephaestus in Athens. Michael explains, “This drastic rebuilding resulted in some windowless rooms!” The introduction of a high entablature meant the servants’ quarters in the attic lost their dormers. Form doesn’t always follow function. Henry Drummond wasn’t impressed and sold up.

“‘Situated on a gentle declivity, and sloping towards a fine piece of living water, embosomed in wood and approached by magnificent avenues, it has the effect in the landscape of those ideal scenes which, indulged only in the painter’s imagination are hardly expected to be realised in nature.’ Thus The Grange was described in the Gardeners’ Magazine of 1826 after the architects William Wilkins and Charles Cockerell had made it the principal monument in Europe of neoclassicism and the supreme achievement of their profession at the time. As such it has been of importance ever since,” John comments with just a dash of hyperbole. Whether the servants would have agreed is a moot point.

“The 1664 house was designed by William Samwell, one of Charles II’s three Court architects, for Sir Robert Henley,” says Michael. “It was all about very clever maths. The double height entrance hall was like the hall in the Queen’s House, Greenwich. It was a 27 foot cube. The bedrooms on either side were 18 feet square. The corner closets were nine feet square.” A Running Times Master Sheet is pinned to the wall of the basement kitchen dressing room, the last room on the private tour: “Le Nozze di Figaro Run Times, Monday to Saturday, 17.30 Curtain Up Part One (one hour 37 minutes), 19.07 Curtain Down Part One, Interval (one hour 40 minutes) 20.47 Curtain Up Part Two (one hour 37 minutes), 10.24 Curtain Down Part Two.” The Irish Georgian Society Review 2024 carried an obituary to John Redmill. “He frequently indulged his love of opera,” wrote Mary Narvell, “with attendance at music festivals.”

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The Londoner Hotel Leicester Square London + Halfpenny London Christmas Tree

The Most Brilliant Season

Kate Halfpenny, Founder of Halfpenny London, shares, “I design organically from the heart, experimenting with sumptuous fabrics, allowing myself the freedom to play with proportions and break the rules, creating beautiful pieces that excite me, push the boundaries and – more importantly – make you feel like the very best version of yourself when you wear them.” She adds about her eponymous bridalwear, “Halfpenny London has spent two decades dressing literally thousands of women for their wedding day.” And now it’s her turn to dress a Christmas tree for the reception of the world’s first super boutique hotel, The Londoner.

Gigantic bows made from repurposed bridal fabric cutoffs embody the designer’s dedication to conscious creations and the hotel’s commitment to conservation. Baubles are so last season. Hand drawn renderings on disks inspired by gold coins, a play on Kate’s surname, appear between the bows. Cocktails crafted with London perfumer Miller Harris’ bridal fragrance embrace the marriage theme. Yellow fin tuna and green pea canapés are fit for a wedding breakfast. Fashion into decorative taste, scent into taste, taste into art, this festive season is all about fabulous fusion. Nobody does it better than Halfpenny London. Nowhere does it better than The Londoner.

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Corsham Court + Corsham Wiltshire

The Remains of the Afternoon

It’s one of the key English houses to see, totally individual and unlike anywhere else. Set between Elizabethan to Victorian built form is a display of interiors from the third quarter of the 18th century, that fascinating period containing the stylistic segue from high rococo to neoclassicism. Even a taste for the macabre in art – Guido Reni’s touching St Sebastián in the Picture Gallery and his bloodied snowy Massacre of the Innocents in the Corridor and Alessandro Turchi’s equally gory Massacre of the Innocents in the Cabinet Room – cannot dispel the current glory of the place.

Corsham Court is positioned close to its namesake town, separated only to the west by a sea of wavy yews. A magical first glimpse of the south facing entrance front is captured through a gated archway linking two 16th century ancillary ranges. There’s never an excuse for missing Vespers: St Bartholomew’s Church is to one side of the short driveway. To the east and north are nine hectares of gardens and across the haha is a five hectare lake. The estate extends to 188 hectares.

First impressions are of a golden hued stone Elizabethan house. This is both true and false: a concurrency of reality. Thomas Smythe’s house of 1582 is clearly visible, not least on his central datestone, but Lancelot “Capability” Brown, acting as architect and landscape designer from 1760 to 1780, replicated the existing bays on either side of the central forecourt. Further works would follow. In the East Wing, the family accommodation, the additional bay lights the Breakfast Room. The original bay lights the Library. In the West Wing, open to visitors for centuries, the additional bay is part of the Cabinet Room but is walled off – too many paintings to hang. The original bay is curtained off by the fourposter of the State Bedchamber.

The Cabinet Room and State Bedchamber form part of Corsham Court’s celebrated suite of State Rooms and are joined by the Picture Gallery and the Octagon Room. Original blood red damask wall hangings and chair coverings complement furniture by the Adam brothers, Chippendale, John Cobb and Thomas Johnson, as well as two family collections of Old Masters. Move over Wilton House near Salisbury with its double cube room – Lancelot’s triple cube (in multiples of 7.3 metres) Picture Gallery is breathtaking from its symmetrical hang of masterpieces to its deep coved and coffered plasterwork ceiling. Unlike the lead paned mullioned windows in most of the principal rooms, the Picture Gallery has five 12 pane sash windows framing views of the lake. The adjoining Cabinet Room has two sash windows, also on the east elevation. The Library and Picture Gallery appear in the 1993 film adaptation of Kazuo Ishiguro’s novel The Remains of the Day starring Emma Thompson and Anthony Hopkins. Living up to his moniker, Lancelot also designed the lake, completed by Sir Humphry Repton four decades later, and the Gothic Bath House.

The second generation of the Methuen family to own Corsham Court still required more space for their original art collection so commissioned John Nash to remodel the north part of the house. That didn’t end well. Despite charging quadruple his original fee proposal, the ambitious Gothic extension was poorly constructed and damp – not so good for paintings. Completed in 1805, it was demolished 41 years later. The polygonal dairy wing with its row of pointy gabled windows is all that remains of his extension. John Nash’s Library and the Dining Room chimneypiece, both in the south part of the house, survive. He also further Gothicised the Bath House.

Discovering John Nash’s fame sometimes slipped to infamy – there’s a reason these days why both planning design and detailed delivery architectural practices are employed for major developments – in 1849 the Methuen family chose Thomas Bellemy, not a household name this time, to design the rebuilding of the north part of the house. His monumental neo Elizabethan north elevation with its staircase tower rising above the roofs is collegiate in tone, best viewed from the far end of the long lawn bordered by deciduous trees. This is its third incarnation: John Nash’s Gothic front had replaced a 1749 Palladian design by Nathaniel Ireson. Thomas Bellemy also inserted windows between the pair of bays of the central setback on the entrance front. Revelling in a typically Victorian eclecticism, his Staircase Hall and Corridors are Italian Renaissance.

The west front is similar in style to the south front. The little published east front is the most playful elevation. Lancelot Brown’s restrained Palladian design – like Alan Hollinghurst’s description of a house in Our Evenings, 2024, “Sash windows up and down were gleams and depths across the great plain face of the building” – was jollied up by John Nash’s Gothic first floor oriel window and turreted trimmings. Its papery architecture is straight off the drawing board. Under John Nash’s remodelling, the Octagon Room lost two of its four chamfered walls so is now six sided. Its centrepiece is a 1790s octagonal rent table. The Dining Room and Music Room unlike the State Suite are in Thomas Bellemy’s neo Elizabethan mode. There is nothing staged about the interiors; no curator has been at work. It is an aesthetic education to be within these walls – first those of the estate, then those of the house.

Splinter Corsham Court into its constituent parts, extant and demolished, disperse and redistribute them, lower the grandeur while raising the vernacular, and Corsham High Street will appear. Parallel lines of Elizabethan to Victorian built form terminate at The Methuen Arms, a three bay three storey Georgian hotel. Most of the buildings share the same golden hued stone of Corsham Court. Others are harled and painted mustard or skin colour. And everywhere, estate and town, the peacocks, symbols of beauty, rebirth, wealth and pride.

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

The Goldens + The Lisantis + The Circus Restaurant Bath Somerset

Golden Ratio

“They arrived at Bath. Catherine was all eager delight,” Jane Austen enthuses in Northanger Abbey (1818). Between the architectural ring of perfection that is The Circus and the arc of joy that is Royal Crescent lies the uncurved stretch of beauty that is Brock Street. This artery linking major works is mostly residential except for The Circus Restaurant which fills the ground floor and basement of a house between one of the two Beau Nash antiques shops and Cobb Farr estate agents. Brock Street is exceptionally pretty but this being Bath prettiness is actually the norm. The architecture is still grand Georgian but taken down a notch in formality compared to its heavily parapeted and haughtily pilastered geometrically daring abutting addresses. Charles Robertson notes in An Architectural Guide to Bath (1975), “John Wood the Younger deliberately kept the Brock Street elevations relatively plain.”

The owners of Beau Nash know all about chips as well as Chippendales and sherry as well as Sheratons. The Food Guide (2024) prepared by dealers Ron Pringle and Cynthia Wihardja states: “We haven’t eaten everywhere but we have tried many places. When we recommend a place it’s not only about the food. We also rate the sincerity of the service. We believe the two are essential for a memorable dining experience.” The Circus Restaurant gets their approval, “You can’t go wrong. Good food, honest prices, seasonal menus. Lovely service and very good value for money.” And The Dark Horse sounds too tempting to miss: “Our top place for pre dinner cocktails! A vast array of concoctions to suit any palette. Cosy quality atmosphere.”

The West Country’s first culinary power couple Head Chef Allison Golden and her husband Geoffrey opened the restaurant in 2007. She recalls the warm glow of that golden era, “Our busy independent restaurant served modern European food accompanied by Old World wines in a relaxed atmosphere. We cooked sincerely and straightforwardly to ensure everyone experienced the authentic taste in our ingredients. You’d never find any of the big names that turn wine into an industrial product. Each wine on our list was the individual expression of expertise.” It was the golden age of dining but time moves on and Ally and Geoff have driven off into the sunset in their gold coloured Lamborghini.

It was a gilt edged opportunity for Chef Matt Lisanti and his brother Mike to take over the restaurant – one they couldn’t resist. The staff were retained and the new golden boys are serving up the same type of modern European food and independent Old World wines. Autumn Menu highlights include Sharpham Brie Croquettes (mustard mayo, black garlic ketchup) starter for £9.30 and Cashew Massaman Coconut Curry (sweet potato, pineapple, lemongrass ginger sushi cake, puffed rice noodle) for £21.30. House White is Claude Val Pays d’Oc (fresh, green apples, tropical, creamy) priced £26.50. The food and wine are easy on the tastebuds and wallet; the service is easy on the eye. After a busy day buying first editions from George Baytun bookshop and handmade Italian jumpers from Gabucci (moda per uomo) it’s straight up from the bottom of Gay Street for dinner at the top. Squeezing in a cocktail in The Dark Horse en route of course. Friday evening in The Circus Restaurant is buzzy with a D4 (Dublin 4) feel to it. “What a delightful place Bath is,” cries Jane Austen’s Mrs Allen.

In his essay A Sense of Proportion John Julius Norwich writes, “Bath is a city of superlatives. First of all, it is the most beautiful in Britain. Next, it is the most appropriately named [unlike Bognor Regis which despite name boasts an elegant Victorian seafront] … Finally, and most gloriously of all, it is the one city in this country where fine building and inspired town planning go hand in hand, together creating an atmosphere of Palladian elegance and civilised refinement without equal anywhere.” That was 49 years ago. But as Jane Austen’s character Mr Tilney asked 206 years ago, “Oh, who can ever be tired of Bath?”

The 2nd Viscount Norwich, son of the socialite Lady Diana Cooper, continues, “The Circus, with its three splendid superimposed arcades loosely based on the Roman Colosseum, is a triumph. Still unfinished when John Wood died in 1754, it was completed by his son, who went on to create an even grander concept, the Royal Crescent, the first crescent in English architecture. In the work of both Woods we can see the principles of Palladian landscaping being followed just as much as those of Palladian proportions. In The Circus, the streets leading in are carefully arranged not to bisect it; in the same way the Royal Crescent, though less than 300 yards away from The Circus down a dead straight street, is actually invisible from it – which makes the sudden discovery one of the great dramatic moments of European architecture.”

He ends, “Yet the beauty of Bath and its uniqueness lie less in these individual triumphs than in the ensemble – in the squares and crescents and parades, ranging from The Circus to many a secluded, unpretentious street behind. The life they were built to sustain was vacuous, vapid and, one suspects, quite shatteringly dull; but they themselves embody very different values – strength, reason, humanity, permanence. This is the paradox of Bath. When the guidebooks call it ‘a monument to bygone elegance’ they are wrong. Only the perishable has perished. The elegance remains.” People come and go; the golden hued architecture is still on show. “The bright genius of Bath is hardly more than a beautiful display, the whim or flourish of an era,” argues Jan Morris in the introduction to Charles Robertson’s An Architectural Guide to Bath. “Edited to the smallest detail of perfection,” to use a phrase of Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors.

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Architects Architecture Art Design Developers Hotels Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

The Royal Crescent Hotel + Montagu’s Mews Bath Somerset

The Silent Banshee

In the late 20th century Cotswolds based neoclassical architect William Bertram converted one of England’s greatest country houses into a hotel and a pair of England’s greatest townhouses into a hotel. At one time, both were owned by Von Essen Hotels. Cliveden House Hotel, Berkshire, and The Royal Crescent Hotel, Bath. Two of the three centremost houses of Royal Crescent were combined and a Dower House built in the mews in the early 1980s. In his book Bath (1944), Tony Smith sums up the country’s most majestic concave semi elliptical piece of architecture: “The whole conception and plan of this dazzling achievement is eloquent of the halcyon days of Bath.” Professor David Watkin describes it in The Practice of Classical Architecture: Quinlan and Francis Terry (2015) as “a half crescent facing down a grassy slope”. In 2010, the Terrys even designed their own crescent of retirement homes in Danbury, Essex.

“As the black of a dinner jacket sets off the bright colours of a dress, so the squares, crescents, quadrangles and circles of bath provide a geometric stage for the flow of life,” reckons Jan Morris in the introduction to An Architectural Guide to Bath by Charles Robertson (1975). William Lowndes notes in The Royal Crescent in Bath, (1981), “The central house of the Crescent is Number 16. It is one of the largest houses, and the adjacent houses also come into this category. There are two distinguishing features about the façade of Number 16 which emphasise its commanding position at the apex of the great curve of the Crescent. Four columns are grouped in pairs, and there is an arched first floor window from which both arms of the Crescent can be viewed in all their elegant symmetry.” There is a third distinguishing feature: it is the only house with single pane wide hall windows flanking the entrance door.

The treatment of the centre of the Crescent has been the subject of much scholarly debate. Charles Robertson notes, “The colonnade is not perfectly continuous; in the middle there is the most unobtrusive of breaks, four of the columns being grouped in pairs with a round headed window in between. This method of marking the centre has been variously criticised as being either unnecessary or insufficient. The former view was voiced as early as 1773, as quoted by Walter Ison, ‘The wretched attempt to make a centre to the Crescent where none was necessary is absurd and preposterous, in a high degree. The pairing of the pillars is too small a difference to be noted in so large a building …’” This 18th century critic radically suggests a chapel should have been placed in the middle of the terrace.

“The houses have had some notable occupants,” opines William Lowndes, “particularly during the first 50 years of their history. Elizabeth Montagu, who rejoiced in the spaciousness of their rooms, entertained many of the outstanding literary figures of the late 18th century there … The first dramatic change for over 100 years came in 1950, when Number 16 became a guesthouse. In 1971, together with Number 15, the guesthouse designation was abandoned, and The Royal Crescent Hotel was launched.” He records the presence of a ghost in Number 15: a lady in a long blue silk dress at the top of the stairs. She graciously descends, bestowing a warm smile on guests and staff, before disappearing. He guesses it is the social reformer and patron of the arts Elizabeth Montagu still enjoying her home from beyond the grave. “I believe unique places and people are what give the fabric of our lives richness,” says Edward Gabbai, Founder and Director of the Boutique Hotel Awards.

A hotel is the perfect alternative use and does not require subdivision: these houses were built for entertaining. John Haddon frets in Portrait of Bath (1982), “Conversion is not easy and some of these flats are not particularly convenient, although others are rather splendid. After all, these houses were built without electricity or gas, upstairs piped water, bathrooms, or, in many cases WCs, and they were heated by coal fires, so that to provide separate entrances, kitchens, lavatories and bathrooms on each floor calls for a good deal of ingenuity, although more recent conversions to what the selling agents like to call ‘prestigious apartments’ is made easier by gutting the building and rebuilding behind the original façade. Moreover, subdivision of Georgian rooms destroys their proportions and creates units which tend to be too high for their width. On the other hand, if a room is left as originally built it is expensive to heat.”

John Wood the Younger employed several builders on the 30 houses. They were all constrained by defined dimensions and designs on the cut limestone ashlar façade while allowed to run amok inside and to the rear. Over the course of eight years starting in 1767, the 152 metre long 15 metre high 114 engaged six metre tall Roman Ionic columned terrace took shape in all its geometric sophistication. The columns support a continuous returned balustraded parapet, modillion cornice and frieze. The occasional plate glass window, blind box and metal balconette are almost the only later derivations from the architect’s original concept. One other variation counteracting the powerful elongated temple front is found in the fanlight glazing bars including single pane; three vertical panes; diamond, oval and fish eye patterns. The number of entrance door panels also varies. Clever maths is at play to allow a central door in a terrace of an even number of 30 houses: 95 windows are shared unevenly. Number 1 is three bays wide on the curve; Number 2 to 13 are each three bays wide; Numbers 14 to 16 are each four bays wide; Numbers 17 to 29 are each three bays wide; and Number 30 is four bays wide on the curve.

The architect stipulated that the exterior woodwork must be painted white in perpetuity. Two centuries later, Annabel Wellesley-Colley broke the covenant much to the horror of her neighbours. In 1972 she painted the front door of her house yellow, and to make matters even worse, hung yellow blinds either side of it. She then took to sunbathing on her balcony wearing a yellow bikini. Naturally, Annabel chose the same hue for the suit she wore to the consequent public inquiry at Bath’s Guildhall. She won. “I am a descendent of the Duke of Wellington whose favourite colour was yellow and I regard it as my duty to uphold the tradition!” declared Annabel Wellesley-Colley. The door of Number 22 is still yellow. Charles Robertson wasn’t impressed: “The yellow door and blinds demonstrate how idiosyncrasy can spill over into bad manners.”

Lunch in Montagu’s Mews overlooking the gardens is an incredibly stylish affair. The delicately decorated ground floor reception rooms of William Bertram’s building flow into each other with grace and charm. Elizabeth Montagu would approve if she ever ventures beyond the staircase hall of Number 15. After the geometric perfection of the famous façade, the rear elevations of the Crescent are a glorious asymmetric jumble best viewed over Cornish day boat fish. “A fascinating disharmony,” observes Richard Morriss (on the architecture not the food) in The Buildings of Bath (1993). “A hodge podge, job lot look, an enthralling muddle,” adds Jan Morris (still on the architecture).

Julia Kent provided a review for House and Garden in May 1987, “The restaurant at The Royal Crescent Hotel is an elegant setting for elegant food, the style of which is contemporary yet classic. First courses have recently included gâteaux of wild mushrooms (a crisp potato galette with creamed spinach and girolles) with timbale of trout with a ragout of shellfish and a rich langoustine butter sauce. For the main course, you might opt for fillet of salmon steamed with cucumber and chive cream sauce. A three course meal from the à la carte menu costs about £27.00.” Lunch is a trifle (or two) more expensive these days.

A lifetime ago, Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors, shared her thoughts that interiors can be classified as either cluttered, hot climate, designer decorated, minimal, ancestral, simple, shabby chic or eccentric. Her London home was definitely “shabby chic” (a term she’d invented) while her Canary Islands retreat was of course “hot climate”. Min did admit, “To subdivide all the glories of interior design into a mere eight categories is shockingly presumptuous but they are fundamental.” The original drawing room of Number 16 currently falls into “modern” unlike the “ancestral” interior of the great fun museum in Number 1 Royal Crescent, one of the two five bay fronted end houses. The middle bay of each of the two end houses is defined by a wider gap between the engaged Roman Ionic columns either side of the central first and second floor windows above a pedimented Doric doorcase. This could have been an alternative solution to the central treatment of the Crescent. The corners of the end houses are emphasised by paired engaged columns on the principal elevations.

Who could forget the cartoon amidst the ancestral decoration of Number 1 Royal Crescent sitting room of a gentleman performing the Dicky Dangle Dance? Back at The Royal Crescent Hotel, the modern art of the drawing room recalls The Snob Spotter’s Guide by Philippe Jullian (1958), “Molly was telling me that at the beginning of his career Picasso used a lot of blue in his pictures. She calls it his Blue Period.” Truer to form, Montagu’s Mews is subtly “designer decorated”. Min often commented, “Beautiful interior decoration will always be one of life’s greatest pleasures.”

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Architects Architecture Design Developers Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

The Landmark Trust + Marshal Wade’s House Bath Somerset

Unvernacular

“I can well remember the first time I entered Bath. It was a very hot day in the summer of 1937 … towards the evening I came to the hills which engirdle the Queen City of the West. Tired and footsore as I was, I lost nothing of that breathtaking moment when the eye first catches sight of that lovely terraced city. Lying, so to speak, in a vast amphitheatre, surrounded by hills of enchanting beauty, it seemed like a city out of an Eastern romance, a new Jerusalem built by some magic hand in England’s green and pleasant land.” That is how Tony Smith reminisced on the Pride of Wessex in his 1944 book simply titled Bath. Hyperbole becomes reality in this city.

Four decades later Kenneth Hudson notes in The Fashionable Stone, “The development of the Combe Down quarries at Bath in the 18th century was due almost entirely to the enterprise of Ralph Allen, who went into the stone business immediately after the Avon navigation was completed in 1727. The improvement in communication by water from Bath made it possible to ship stone by barge to Bristol and from there by ship to anywhere in Britain. It was the Avon navigation that broke the virtual export monopoly that Portland had held for so long.”

The Landmark Trust’s central Bath property predates John Wood the Elder and John Wood the Younger’s developments. This remarkable 1720s townhouse built for Ralph Allen’s friend Field Marshal George Wade – swapping his military life in the Scottish highlands for political life as MP for Bath – was rescued by the Trust in 1975. The ground and first floors are retail use. The top two floors of this now single aspect (save for one landing roof window) south facing building are holiday accommodation. Two reception rooms evenly occupy the four bays of the second floor. A freestanding octagonal kitchen (sink, cooker, fridge and cupboards all in one waist height compact unit) in one of the reception rooms is parallel with five of the walls including the chamfered chimneypiece wall. This allows the panelling and bolection mouldings to remain intact. Two bedrooms on the storey above have floors so slanted that walking across them is like being tipsy on a rocky boat.

All seven main windows (one of the windows in the outer bathroom wall is a dummy) of the palazzo façade overlook Abbey Churchyard. Thankfully it’s a car free space unlike The Circus and Royal Crescent. The angels climbing up and down Jacob’s Ladder on the west elevation of Bath Abbey are almost in touching distance. Directly opposite are the roofs of The Pump Room. The best view is from the loo on the top floor. Unusually for this hallowed and documented city, the provenance of Marshal Wade’s House is lost in the mists of time. The architect was certainly familiar with Andrea Palladio’s Libri dell’Architettura of 1570. “The Ionic pilasters are the first in Bath of the giant order,” Richard Morriss confirms in The Buildings of Bath (1993), “rising through two storeys.” Charles Robertson records in An Architectural Guide to Bath (1974), “The attic storey is somewhat different and may have been added or altered at a later date. “The building next door to the east clearly has a later top floor.

Heading downhill and arriving four decades later, Robert Adam’s Pulteney Bridge is a lighter version of neoclassicism in contrast to the virility of Marshal Wade’s House. Richard Morriss ponders, “It is said to reflect Palladio’s proposal for the Rialto Bridge in Venice.” Charles Robertson isn’t so sure: “Walter Ison suggests that the design may be adapted from a drawing in Palladio’s Terzo Libri dell’Architettura but the resemblance is not at all close, and Adam would presumably have regarded imitation of Palladio as old fashioned. There is really no reason to consider this simple but masterly design as anything other than original.”

So who was the first occupant of this house? George Wade’s family had settled in County Westmeath in the 17th century. Clearly at some stage he crossed the Irish Sea to settle in the West Country. Denise Chantrey records in George Wade 1673 to 1748 (2009), “Wade was a man who made and kept many friends who might easily have been his enemies. He was straightforward and honest, and made a point of seeing the other man’s point of view. He was a flamboyant character and he loved cards, wine, women, comfort, good furniture and art. He had friends in high places but gambled in low dives. He was vain and often commissioned portraits of himself which he gave to family and friends.” It would be rude not to continue the established partying tradition then in his not so humble Palladian abode.

Director of The Landmark Trust Dr Anna Keay explains, “Over 50,000 people now stay every year in The Landmark Trust’s buildings and experience the pleasure of carrying the key of the door in their pocket, ‘a stimulus more powerful than a mere ticket of admission’, and the possibility, for which Landmark was founded, that they ‘might go back home with an interest awakened that would grow, and perhaps last them all of their lives’.” An awakened interest it is then but not before afternoon sherry is decanted at a stop off in Corkage. Life is a stage behind the velvet curtains of this intimate restaurant and bottle shop on Chapel Row. “There is a poignancy,” writes Jan Morris in the introduction to Charles Robertson’s Guide, “to this diminutive side of Bath, or if not a poignancy, a wistfulness.”

In The Landmark Handbook (1988) the then Prince of Wales wrote in the forward: “While I am fortunate to be the Patron or President of a great many charities, I have always been a particular enthusiast for the work of The Landmark Trust. Its philosophy accords closely with my own convictions that historic buildings need – indeed deserve – sympathetic and skilled repair and a viable contemporary purpose both to survive and thrive. It is wonderful that the Trust’s restored buildings give much enjoyment, as well as earn the income to support themselves and the charity that cares for them.” Much enjoyment – taking his now Majesty’s advice the toons are turned up! Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors, liked to have the last word, “The most successful houses reflect their surroundings.”

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Design Luxury People

The Charleston + Catchpole + Rye Fulham London

Fit for Royalty

There’s lots to celebrate on a Wednesday evening in Fulham. It’s the 10th anniversary of luxury bathroom company Catchpole and Rye’s showroom in London plus the launch of The Charleston washstand. Bring on the Chapel Down and canapés! Catchpole and Rye’s foundry and headquarters are in Kent so it is right to have sparkling wine from that county. The Garden of England is becoming the Vineyard of Britain. The fresh scent of floral arrangements from Blooming Green and candles from Wild Planet Aromatherapy fills the air of the showroom.

The Charleston has a distinctive outline with a chamfered cornered splashback and perpendicular angled legs. It is available as a single or double washstand – each is handmade to order and tailored to the client. There are four marble variations and a choice of eight hammered metal finishes. It’s a classic contemporary design that would look as good in a Robert Adam townhouse (circa 1792) as a Robert Adam country house (circa 1992), in a Richard Rogers apartment or a Richard Meier villa.

Managing Director Tony O’Donnell designed the new washstand. He explains, “We’re renowned for our traditional designs and that’s something we’re very proud of – for making our mark on the industry in that way. I wanted though to do something different with this design and create a more contemporary piece. A lot of engineering work went into creating a design with such sleek support that is still strong and sturdy. The Charleston is about form following function and the commitment to creating a beautiful piece of furniture.” A visit to Charleston House in the South Downs, the former home of painters Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, provided Tony with artistic inspiration.

Catchpole and Rye was founded by husband and wife Tony and Elaine O’Donnell in 1991. They are originally from County Tipperary. It was the discovery of an old bath in their new house in Kent that prompted them to launch a bathroom company. He recalls, “The bath needed restoring so we set about trying to find someone who could do the work but there wasn’t anyone.” The O’Donnells filled the lacuna. “Our aim from then on was to find antique items for the bathroom and modernise their functionality. It wasn’t easy and we more or less had to invent the industry in Britain.” New ranges would follow. National would grow international. History in the making.

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Art Design Fashion Luxury People

Mary Martin London 10th Anniversary Show + Africa Fashion Week London 2024

The Relaunch of Modernity

Genesis to revelation, alpha to omega, 2014 to 2024, a decade of decadence, tenure insightfulness, a period of drama. Actress Vivienne Rochester proclaims: “In the beginning God created the heaven and the earth, and the earth was without form and void. And darkness was upon the face of the deep. And the Spirit of God moved upon the face of the waters. Life and the atmosphere that supports it underwent an extraordinary transformation. Life took a quantum leap from a single cell to a complex man. An awesome power on earth. Mother Earth supported mortal man. She said, ‘May the long time sun shine upon you, all love surround you and the pure light within you guide you on your way.’”

Vivienne announces, “From the time humans first walked the earth they have created and have been creative. We dance! We sing! We connect! We thrive! We evolve through our creativity and today we are privileged to see the creativity of Mary Martin London who uses the abundance of the earth, its cultures and its history to give context and storylines to her creations.” The fashion play begins in – where else? – the Garden of Eden floodlit by an illumination of Vincent van Gogh’s The Starry Night. But first, a short film of the unstoppable rise of the fashion artist told through her friends like singer songwriter Heather Small.

“I’m going to town for my 10th anniversary!” Mary had said a few months earlier over coffee in her south London atelier. Literally: Kensington Town Hall. “I’m bringing all the fashion – and so much more. It’s going to be an extravaganza of the arts. There’ll be artistic performances to accompany the highlights from my main collections: Fairytale; Hidden Queen; Queen of Africa; Blood, Sweat and Tears; Return, Black Excellence, Divine Intervention.”

Models strut down the catwalk in 50 sartorial masterpieces to a rapturous reception. The musical performances are as eclectic as the fashion. Hafsa Kazeem, a 12 year old musician, plays the African drum while Maxine Booth dances in contemporary waves of motion and emotion. Crossover soprano Emma Nuule delivers a breathtaking rendition of Giacomo Puccini’s O Mio Babbino Caro. Over a century after the opera Gianni Schicchi was first performed, she provides an enthralling A flat major musical interlude – 176 seconds – expressing the lyrical brilliance of Giovacchino Forzano’s libretto.

Singer Ashleigh Bankx performs her latest hit Miss You. Her sound is a fusion of influences from hip hop to sungura, a Zimbabwean genre of lead, rhythm and bass guitar melodies. Zimbabwean born London raised, Ashleigh started making music after finishing her law degree at Brunel University. Adasnoop mixes it up even more with her Afrobeats. Finally soul singer Jenessa Qua sings “I’m Every Woman” while Mary takes a bow before being joined by Queen Ronke and the full cohort of models.

Maxine also takes to the catwalk in one of the statement dresses. “I feel like I’ve known Mary for years,” she says afterwards, “even though this was my first show with her.” She dances, models, sings, presents and practises lymphatic drainage therapy. “Mary’s clothes are more than just elegant and sometimes sassy designs. They really make you feel good. Modelling requires a specific mindset. You have to be confident in who you are while letting the clothes shine. I’ve learnt to embrace my individuality without fear of judgment.” Such immediacy, such form, a proclivity of all existence itself.

One of the beautiful relationships Mary will later commend is her friendship with former accountant, organisational psychologist and ballerina Sue Elabor. They had a chance meeting while volunteering – Mary might be hugely creative and enormous fun but she takes her charitable work very seriously. She made The Green Ballerina for Sue. This outfit was showcased at the patrician Foreign and Commonwealth Office London photoshoot. Who could forget Swan Lake reverberating off the marble walls of Durbar Court as Sue peerlessly pirouetted one midsummer morning? The curtains of 10 Downing Street next door really were twitching.

Speaking at the US Embassy a few days before the opening show, HRM Queen Ronke Ademiluyi Ogunwusi, Founder of Africa Fashion Week London, recognised Mary’s contribution to the international arts world. “Mary was recently honoured by the Council of the City of Atlanta, Georgia, with a day named after her. It’s clear that the USA and UK can build bridges through diplomacy and fashion. Black history is an ongoing journey encompassing resilience, collaboration and creativity. It’s not merely a month long celebration. We can collectively honour our past, celebrate the present and inspire a future where our cultural heritage is respected and valued beyond borders.”

Afterwards, Mary would reflect, “God blessed me – He wanted this show to happen. I am very happy with it. I’m always to the left. I brought personality and all the arts to it. I wanted more than just a catwalk. It’s been a beautiful ride full of beautiful relationships.” Mary said she would like to give special thanks to: family and God, Sue Elabor, Stuart Blakley, HRM Queen Ronke Ademiluyi-Ogunwusi The 1st of Ile-Ife Kingdom, Africa Fashion Week London, Adil Oliver Sharif, Smade, Reuben Joseph, Nick Galbusera, Allan Henry, Cecil Adjalo, Jeremie Alamazani, Monika Schaible, Lia Boothman, Litehouse, Vermondo Boshoff, Shaun Bailey Baron Bailey of Paddington, and every model, photographer, makeup artist and stylist past and present. All the while dancing, singing, connecting, thriving. On the frontline. Mary Martin London embodies Psalm 139:14, “I praise You because I am fearfully and wonderfully made; Your works are wonderful, I know that full well.” The haunch of eternity.

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Architects Architecture Design Developers People Town Houses

St Augustine’s Grange + St Edward’s Presbytery Ramsgate Kent

All Saints

It’s the 172nd anniversary of the death of Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin, an important day to arrive at St Augustine’s Grange, Ramsgate, where he died on 14 September 1852. Despite his considerable contribution to architecture, he was only 40. But there is nothing morbid about our sun soaked visit to the Gothic Revivalist’s home and adjoining property, St Edward’s Presbytery, high above the shoreline of east Kent. This Grade I Listed enclave has been pristinely preserved and rationally revived as holiday accommodation by The Landmark Trust, that keeper of follies and other quirks of built heritage.

The interrelationship of the two houses set in the wider context of St Augustine’s Church next door (by Augustus) and St Augustine’s Monastery opposite (by Augustus’ eldest son Edward) is best experienced from the viewing platform of the tower (which houses water tanks and WCs) of The Grange. It’s a complex and clever Gothic jigsaw. Glorious built form, glorious urban scenery. Excitement of architecture is matched by thrill of geography: a sweep of coastline takes in Sandwich Bay and a distant Deal.

In his Introduction (2003) to The True Principles of Pointed or Christian Architecture and An Apology for The Revival of Christian Architecture (1841 and 1843) Dr Roderick O’Donnell writes, “Pugin was to be at his most influential in reforming the practice of the Gothic Revival and domestic architecture of what, in another context, he called the ‘middle class’ home, and his revolutionary influence on its construction, planning and decoration was first demonstrated in his own house, St Augustine’s Grange, Ramsgate (1843). Pugin thus stands at the wellspring of 19th century architectural and design reform, which was to be reflected in the institution that would become the Victoria and Albert Museum, the publications of Ruskin, and the architecture and decorative programme of William Morris … the paternity of the 20th century Modern Movement can be tracked back to Pugin and to True Principles.”

To the early 21st century eye The Grange and The Presbytery may appear to be simply high quality Victorian architecture, but to the mid 19th century eye the elevational subservience to the plan would have appeared as a radical reversal of the neoclassical norm. A striking honesty is at work: no blind windows or screen walls; instead a proliferation of asymmetric window arrangements and visible buttresses. Augustus’ work is the antithesis of the contemporaneous symmetrical Italianate pair of villas closer to Ramsgate Royal Harbour called Vale and likely built by the developer William Saxby.

The Grange, a family house, looks across to the English Channel over the West Cliffs. The Presbytery, a secular priest’s house which came seven years later, is tucked between The Grange and St Augustine’s Road. Both were designed by Augustus; both have light filled additions by Edward. The porch of The Grange and the first floor studio of The Presbytery, each glazed above dado height, are second generation Pugin.

There is weight to the choice of materials: the unknapped flint of The Presbytery symbolically straddles the secular and religious: St Augustine’s Church is built of knapped flint and Whitby stone; The Grange, of London stock brick with Caen stone dressings. Dr Anna Keay, Director of The Landmark Trust, sums up the two properties as “Gothic heaven and available to all of us to book for a stay”. Upon entering through Edward’s gates to be greeted by a pair of heraldic stone lions on top of the gateposts, we’re enjoying Augustus’ oft quoted “delight of the sea with Catholic architecture and a library”.

The internal layout of The Grange was just as quietly groundbreaking as the exterior. A practical arrangement of main rooms clustered around a central staircase hall without any servants’ corridors would prove to be the forerunner of later Victorian suburban housing. Subsequent architects like Sir Edwin Lutyens would be inspired by Augustus’ thoughtful design such as the positioning of windows based on capturing the optimal light and framing the best views.

The family chapel, reception rooms and bedrooms are richly decorated with a wealth of pattern and colour provided by stained glass windows, wallpaper and encaustic tiles. In contrast, the uncontrived simplicity and solidity of the kitchen dresser would herald the honesty of workmanship of the Arts and Crafts movement led by among others Philip Webb and Charles Voysey. Augustus believed features should be decorated but must be functional. According to Stephen Coote in William Morris His Life and Work (1995), “Pugin declared, ‘Ornament should be no more than enrichment of the essential composition.’” This dedication to functionality as a starting point would sew the seeds of Modernism in the following century.

Dr Roderick O’Donnell wrote the entry for Edward Welby Pugin in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (2004): “Edward Welby Pugin (1834 to 1875), architect, was born on 11 March 1834 at Ramsgate, the eldest son of Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin (1812 to 1852) and his second wife, Louisa Burton (circa 1813 to 1844). He was trained by his father and at the age of 18 found himself in charge of his father’s practice, which he developed with many pupils and various partnerships, most importantly with his brother-in-law George Coppiner Ashlin in Ireland (1859 to 1869) and his brother Peter Paul Pugin (1851 to 1904) … Edward Pugin’s practice was overwhelmingly Roman Catholic. He worked initially in his father’s preferred Decorated Gothic style … From 1856 his style became more elaborate but his church plans simpler by widening the span of the arcades, diminishing chancel arches, and abolishing rood screens, so as to achieve simple sightlines set in shallow apses.”

Edward died unmarried in the arms of his brother Cuthbert Welby Pugin at his home on Victoria Street, Westminster. He was more outgoing than his father, frequenting Turkish baths and attending charitable functions. Roderick argues he was less important an architect than his father yet notes his style and plans became normative for Roman Catholic churches in the British Isles in the latter half of the 19th century. We reckon Edward’s surviving additions provide another layer of interest to The Grange and The Presbytery. The family firm continued as Pugin and Pugin.

Surrendering to the familial draw of Ramsgate, Cuthbert retired to The Grange where he died unmarried on 25 March 1928, outliving the combined age of his father and older brother by five years. The Landmark Trust decisively removed most of Edward’s additions to The Grange including a drawing room extension, conservatory and several chimneypieces. Cuthbert’s 1880s alterations to The Presbytery were also demolished. We depart Ramsgate with a newfound understanding and appreciation of Pugin the Elder and Pugins the Younger.

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Seabird Restaurant + Vale + Valerian Lodge + Liverpool Lawn Ramsgate Kent

Beyond The Vale

The seaside town of Ramsgate in the southeast of England is incredibly distinguished: it has the largest Wetherspoon’s in England. It also has the only Royal Harbour in the country. In a neat linguistic loop the vast tavern occupies the Royal Victoria Pavilion which overlooks the regally moored yachts. Wetherspoon’s verandah is the perfect place to view the golden sands over a preprandial pint. Moving a few blocks inland, Seabird has indoor and outdoor seating – and cooking. Civilised lunch on the terrace is straight from the en plein air grill. Unmissable delights are fennel, feta, cucumber, olive and lemon followed by buttermilk and vanilla pannacotta with brandy soaked Victoria plums.

Gosh so many houses so little time. The domestic architecture of Ramsgate is a rich melange of all the best bits of the 18th and 19th centuries. Some of it is frayed round the edges – this town is genteel rather than gentrified, chilled instead of cool, warm and friendly not hot and trendy. Away from the scale and grandeur of the cliff houses, selected highlights, and not just on an alliterative nomenclature basis, are Vale, Valerian Lodge and Liverpool Lawn.

Close to Seabird, Vale is an impressive triple fronted end of terrace square building split into two semi detached villas. The three storey (with attic and basement) pair share a five bay end elevation: the middle bay is a blind window. A vast scrolled pediment concealing the setback top floor has the word Vale (in upper case) raised on a central panel. The two unshared elevations comprise three wider bays. Rather charmingly, the stucco to the ‘front’ house is painted bright grey; the ‘back’ house is in its natural darker grey pigment free stucco state. Like twin girls but one is wearing makeup. Vale was most likely built by the developer William Saxby in the 1840s.

Valerian Lodge on Grange Road is further up the hill from Seabird on the way to Ramsgate Railway Station. It’s a rather elegant Regency or very early Victorian house set in a miniature 0.2 hectare walled estate filled with holm oak, turkey oak, horse chestnut and sycamore. The house is a long low two storey (over basement) rectangular block: one of the short two elevations faces the road. A tented balcony with trellised piers linking two of the five first floor bedrooms peers over the brick and flint boundary wall. Except for render above the balcony, walls are pale brown brick. In 2015, a single storey garden room in matching style linked by a glazed lobby was added to the short elevation facing away from the road. It was designed by Margate architects Duncan and Graham. Valerian Lodge has the tallest chimneypots in Kent – or at least on Grange Road.

Not far from Wetherspoon’s, Liverpool Lawn was built by James Crisford between 1827 and 1836. A crescent and various straight terraces face a triangular green (that Lawn!). Liverpool Villa and Liverpool House are a pair of three storey brown brick houses: flat fronted facing the Lawn and two full height bow windows on the other principal elevation. These townhouses are aptly of a scale and appearance (especially the painted ground floor lintels) popular in Liverpool. Numbers 20, 21 and 23 form a stuccoed two storey terrace. Number 20 has a three bay façade on the short elevation and is just one bay deep facing the Lawn. Numbers 21 and 22 have identical three bay façades (actually three and a bit bay: they share a central first floor blind window) facing the Lawn. Liverpool Lawn is developer led residential use at its finest.

In 2013, Liverpool Lawn was extended by seven townhouses next to Liverpool Villa and Liverpool House. Built by developer Kentish Projects, designer Anthony Browne of Chelsea Consultants explains, “The houses were designed to mimic neighbouring bow fronted Grade II Listed Georgian properties, while also adapting interior contemporary elements. The houses at the end of the terrace were finished in a contrasting white castellated style. The development utilises hand cut Flemish bond brickwork, lime mortar and stone Gothic window arches. The bespoke wooden windows, doors and railings were crafted to original standards.”

Harriet Kean writes in the October 2024 edition of Tatler, “Wetherspoon’s are the cornerstones of society where everyone comes together. These days everybody’s at the pub. Why go to The Surprise in Chelsea when there’s an Earl of Mulgrave approved Wetherspoon’s: The Montagu Pyke? Everyone who’s anyone is currently mourning The Asparagus: the famed ’Spoon’s in Battersea that to the despair of socialites everywhere closed this year and then reopened as a bougie pub with craft beers. But The Asparagus did have its heyday, attracting everyone from the Morgan-Gileses to Old Marlburian Charlie Girardot.” Fear not: Ramsgate Wetherspoon’s is but a Tube and train ride away from Sloane Square.

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Jody Breese + Jim Breese + Penelope Wine Bar Ramsgate Kent

Sipping Like Dowagers Dancing Like Dervishes

One block back from the sea breeze, there’s a beat in the air. Architect William George Osborne’s tall sliver of a building with its ornate late 19th century façade couldn’t be more different than designer Peter Chadwick’s pared back early 21st century ground floor interior. Penelope is the creation of Jody and Jim Breese – the latter is also the resident DJ. The pair have brought natural wine and vinyl and a party spirit to their hometown. Saturday nights in downtown Ramsgate are all about shooting the breeze at Penelope.

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Architecture Art Country Houses Luxury People

The Percevals + Temple House Ballymote Sligo

Temple of Room

This article is based on two visits to one of the largest privately owned homes in Ireland. In 2001, pioneers of organic farming Sandy and Deb Perceval were the hosts. By 2012, the next generation had taken over: the entrepreneurial and equally hospitable Roderick and Helena. The photographs date from the second visit. A neverending restoration and upkeep continues, while some of the rooms have been updated since, the essence of Temple House remains: it really is the quintessential Irish country house. Elizabeth Bowen could have been writing about it in 1929 in The Last September, “Exhausted by sunshine, the backs of the crimson chairs were a thin light orange; a smell of camphor and animals drawn from skins on the floor by the glare of morning still hung like dust on the evening chill.”

Lissadell, Annaghmore and Temple House. Three great neoclassical country houses resting at the foothills of rugged mountains which trace the west coast of Ireland in an area forever associated with the poetry of William Butler Yeats. Built of stone which darkens from gunpowder to charcoal grey in the persistent rain, each house has a deep Doric porch or porte cochère for shelter from the prevailing wind. Austere elevations cloak rich interiors of intense colour, style and provenance.

The Percevals have lived on their 400 hectare estate for four centuries (except for a short break). The 12th generation, the blonde dynamic duo of Roderick and his wife Helena, play host to staying guests, wedding parties and events. The remains of the original building now form a picturesque crumbling ruin nestled between the current Temple House and lake. It was a castle built in 1216 by the Knights Templar who would later be immortalised in Dan Brown’s 2003 potboiler The Da Vinci Code. Most people don’t have enough storage space in their homes. Not so the Percevals. With dozens of rooms and kilometres of corridors all lit by hundreds of windows, they never have the excuse there’s no room for guests. So they have turned this potential problem into an attractive asset. Now guests can recline in splendid isolation in one of six first floor bedrooms. “We enjoy sharing this gem,” confides Roderick.

Not all guests pay for their accommodation. “The most consistently seen ghost is Nora,” relates Helena. Nora, otherwise known as Eleanora Margaret Perceval, was the châtelaine of Temple House in the Roaring Twenties (although this being rural County Sligo the era was more about fires than flappers). A favourite haunt of hers is the Blue Bedroom. Her best friend was Lady Gaga, wife of Sir Henry Gore-Booth of Lissadell. Another ghost, this time male, has been glimpsed at twilight sitting at the writing desk in the Guest Bedroom Corridor, scribbling long forgotten letters to long forgotten lovers under the purple patchwork of reflected light from the etched windows. Helena continues, “The part of the house we use as family accommodation was derelict when we moved in. It used to have a very distinct atmosphere – a little unnerving – but this has mellowed in recent times.” A visiting American psychic found the house to be riddled with ghosts. “She even spotted a few knights loitering in the castle ruins.”

Temple House wasn’t always as massive. In 1825 Colonel Alexander Perceval (who held the honorary post Sergeant at Arms in the House of Lords) commissioned John Lynn, architect and builder of Sligo, Downpatrick and Belfast, to design and build a relatively modest but still impressive three storey five bay wide by four bay deep with four bay return wing house. Its porch is clearly discernible in the Ionic columned Drawing Room bay window of the current southeast front. The family moved into this new house while the servants continued to live in the castle. But just 33 years later financial difficulties forced the Percevals to sell up. Not for long. A knight in shining armour came riding back to save the day – and the estate. The third son of the Colonel, another Alexander, bought the estate in 1863. “Alexander also paid for a number of families who had been evicted under the interim ownership to return from Britain, American and elsewhere in Ireland and rebuilt their houses.”

“Not large enough!” Alexander declared when he first set eyes on the aggrandisement plans for Temple House. He had made a fortune trading tea in Shanghai and Hong Kong allowing him to splash out three quarters of a million pounds on rebuilding his ancestral seat. In 1865 he tripled the size of the late Georgian house, moving the main entrance to the northeast front. The designer was an unusual choice: the London cabinetmakers Johnstone and Jeanes. The attic floor ducks behind a heavy balustraded parapet which luxuriantly wraps around the new and old entrance fronts. All three storeys are visible in the central three bays of the southwest front. One year later, Alexander died aged 44. Glimpses of his far flung career live on in dashes of Chinoiserie throughout the interior. His son Alec would marry Charlotte O’Hara of Annaghmore.

Service wings link the main blocks (plural, this being Temple House) around a central courtyard. This inner sanctum, devoid of distracting decoration, displays a strange and abstract beauty, its sheer walls rising like cliff faces. Form doesn’t always follow function on the outer envelope though. In the Dining Room behind the majestic portrait of Jane Perceval (Alexander’s mother) is a false window with the sole purpose of maintaining the symmetric harmony of the exterior. Roderick reveals that during the Great Famine, “Jane Perceval used to visit the tenantry with food and medicine twice a week. She died in the winter of 1847 of ‘famine fever’. That was the fate of many good people who had gone to the assistance of the starving peasantry. She writes in a touching letter of the time to remind those around her ‘not to neglect the tenant families between my death and my funeral’.”

“We believe each generation should leave its mark on the house,” Helena states. “We’ve painted the Dining Room a rich ruby red using an authentic Farrow and Ball paint.” It used to be pale green. “Next is the Staircase Hall. We’ve identified a specific blue in the cornice which we hope to use for the walls. After that will be the Sitting Room. Perhaps ivory or off white.” Upstairs a rather more relaxed approach has been taken to the fragile interiors. “The Twin Bedroom hadn’t been decorated for 100 years,” she smiles. “But that’s a good thing at Temple House!” Signs next to the pair of tall sash windows requests guests not to pull the curtains: they’ll fall down. The bedrooms are completely dark anyway when the heavy shutters are closed at night. “Temple House boasts rooms of enormous proportions,” adds Roderick. One is called the Half Acre Bedroom with good reason. “Yet there’s a real sense of intimacy here too. The first guests we catered for were one challenge which we met and are now adept at. We love having groups of friends to stay. Then hosting our first wedding was the next challenge. Organising an arts and music festival was another exciting venture.”

Since this article was written, the great great great grandson of Alexander ‘Chinaman’ Perceval and his wife have added exclusive hire of the house to their wedding venue and bed and breakfast businesses. There are now 10 guest bedrooms. Dinner is available for non residents by reservation and historic house group tours by arrangement. Elizabeth Bowen writes in her family history book of 1942, Bowen’s Court, “Ireland is a great country to die or be married in.” To twist and mix the distinguished author’s words and the distinguished poet’s, Temple House is a great place to stay or be married in with its grand windows open to the southwest.

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Design Restaurant + Dome Café by Social Pantry Chelsea Harbour Design Centre London

And The Isles Shall Wait

WOW!house may be an annual highlight but Chelsea Harbour Design Centre is the nation’s most prominent interior design destination all year round. On either side of the Centre Dome is Design Restaurant by Social Pantry in the North Dome and Dome Café by Social Pantry in the South Dome. These two airy eateries are laid out open plan on the ground floor under two layers of some of the 130 showroom galleries – from Andrew Martin to Zuber – all below the semi spherical glass roofs. Architect Ray Moxley’s original design continues to impress and adapt.

Menu highlights at the Design Restaurant include Tuna Tartare (confit heritage tomatoes, basil and Shizu dressings, crispy shallots); Market Fish Cake (corn, paprika mayo, rocket) and Pannacotta (summer berry compôte, almond and ginger tuile). An extensive drinks menu includes Gusborne Wine and Classic Cocktails like the Espresso Martini and Negroni as well as Signature Cocktails such as Honey Chamomile Old Fashioned and Elderflower Spritz. Alex Head started Social Pantry in 2011 and the company has grown to be a leading caterer in London for corporate and private events. As well as a dual presence in Chelsea Harbour, there are Social Pantry restaurants in the Central Criminal Court, Mansion House and Tower Bridge.

Alex confirms, “We are proud to work with the very best sustainable suppliers.” These include The Ethical Butcher, Wildfarmed, Shrub Provisions and Cornish Sea Salt Company. Redemption Roasters is the world’s first prison based roastery, training ex offenders in coffee industry skills with the aim of reducing reoffending in Britain. It works with likeminded companies and supplies coffee to all of Social Pantry’s sites. There are several ex offender resettlement organisations in London including Change for Good, a charity which provides mentoring for men leaving prison to support them as they rebuild their lives.

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Art Design People

Montmartre Cemetery Paris + Les Chats

Hang In There Tiger

A myriad stone telephone boxes calling heaven from under a steel flyover is the unique first impression. Montmartre Cemetery, or Cimetière du Nord, opened in 1825 on the site of limestone quarries at the bottom of the famous hill. It is one of the four cemeteries created at the cardinal points of Paris during the early 19th century. These new burial grounds – Père Lachaise in the east, Montparnasse in the south, Passy in the west and Montmartre in the north – replaced the parish graveyards closed on public health grounds. The bones were reinterred in the Catacombs beneath Place Denfert-Rochereau.

Cobbled lanes and grass paths link 11 hectares of monuments to the dead between cedar, chestnut, lime and maple trees. The Pont de Caulaincourt was built over the lower part of the site in 1888. It supports the overhead Rue de Caulaincourt and was the brainchild of that most determined of town planners, Georges Eugène Haussmann. Six cast iron Doric columns rising between graves support the 160 metre long road and pedestrian bridge connecting the western slope of Montmartre to the rest of the city.

A copper statue of the fallen Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Baudin lies on top of a stone plinth inscribed “La Loi”. This doctor, politician and member of the National Assembly was shot and killed in 1851 when climbing on top of a barricade to oppose the coup of Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte. He was hailed as a martyr to the Republican cause. Nearby, a CD cover has been placed on the gravestone of Daniel Rozoum. Known as Daniel Darc, the singer achieved success with his band Taxi Girl between 1978 and 1986, and later as a solo artist. He died in 2013 aged 53. One of his solo album hits was Sous Influence Divine. Resting well. Memory amidst forgottenness. Au Cimetière du Nord, Il y a le chat noir et blanc, le chat brun et blanc and le chat gris. Afterlife is a cabaret.

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Montmartre Museum + Renoir Garden Paris + Auguste Herbin

Room for Love  

Mees Salomé’s Higher is playing while we enjoy cheesy omelette on the terrace of Le Deli’s on Rue du Mont-Cenis watching the competitive joggers beat the gradient. It’s all about being above and beyonders, top performers, brand champions, role models, best of the best, on the frontline. We’re getting high. A spiritual high. A romantic high. A physical high. A Paris high. Adoring Montmartre. Sleaze (Boulevard de Clichy) turns to class (Rue Cortot) in direct correlation to altitude. So it’s onwards and upwards to the Montmartre Museum which is so much more than its name suggests. The museum is a summit situated collection of spaces set in the shadow of the towering roofscapes of Sacré Coeur and Château d’Eau de Montmartre. One a monument to spiritual health, the other a monument to physical health. This urban composition at the highest topographical point of Paris oozes up at heel bohemian charm.

“Modern Paris exists largely because of one man – Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte, otherwise known as Emperor Napoléon III, nephew of the more gifted Napoléon I. It was he who conceived a compact Paris tied together with wide boulevards, and hired the man who made it reality,” explains John Baxter in Montmartre Paris’s Village of Art and Sin (2017). “To create these thoroughfares and the buildings that lined them, the Emperor appointed ‘Baron’ Georges-Eugène Haussmann, a town planner sufficiently far seeing to visualise a modern Paris and ruthless enough to realise it.”

Montmartre, or at least the hill itself, was never quite Hausmannised and developed more organically in picturesque clusters of development. This peak of the 18th Arrondisement was of course the pinnacle of civilisation in the 1920s. “Paris. No word sounded sweeter to me!” the artist Marc Chagall recalled in his 1957 autobiography My Life. Artists Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Maurice Utrillo, Raoul Dufy, Émile Bernard and Suzanne Valadon all worked in the collection of buildings that is now the museum. The former’s garden with its iconic swing and the latter’s studio with its used paintbrushes have both been recreated. The composer Erik Satie lived next door.

The Master Revealed is the current exhibition celebrating the life work of Auguste Herbin (1882 to 1960). Occasionally whacky, always brilliant, this painter embraced all the main art movements of the 20th century. Auguste moved seamlessly between Fauvism, Cubism, Abstract, Post Impressionism, Realism and Musicalism. He was very much a man of his time. Curator Fanny de Lépanau opines, “Given that he produced work for such a long period and of such high quality, it is surprising that Auguste Herbin has never had an exhibition in a Parisian museum.” She laments his undeserved descent into relative obscurity despite a successful career across Europe spanning six decades. Perhaps this exhibition will act as a catalyst to resurrect his reputation and establish his deserved place in the history of 20th century art.

The exhibition illustrates the artist’s versatility and includes portraits, self portraits, still lifes, townscapes, landscapes and even his plastic alphabet. One of the standout townscape works is the intensely mysterious Paysage Nocturne à Lille (1901). Another wintry painting is Toits de Paris Sous la Neige (1902), an atmospheric snowstorm scene captured at eyre level. The standout landscape Paysage Méridional (1924) reveals such a sunny disposition. La Vieux Pont à Bruges (1906) and La Place Maubert (1907) are explosions of vibrant colour. Auguste Herbin believed, “The more abstract art is, the more it expresses personality. The more abstract art is, the more it identifies with a thousand and one personalities.” Nature Morte Aux Feuilles  (1917) does just that.

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Architects Architecture Country Houses People

Sion House + Emma Herdman + Herdman’s Mill + Sika by Niall Restaurant Sion Mills Tyrone

Marching

Rural County Tyrone isn’t the most obvious location to come across an overblown Tudorbethan mansion. This half timbered affair would look more at home in the Surrey Hills. A large scale forerunner to Stockbroker’s Tudor semi detached houses. The landscaped garden is an attempt to tame the wildness of this rainswept region. It’s not surprising to learn that the architect of Sion House was an Englishman. The original house which would be engulfed through rebuilding was a more typical country house of these parts. It was a mildly Italianate three bay wide by three bay deep two storey stone faced house built in 1846 to the design of the illustrious Sir Charles Lanyon (1813 to 1889). Less than four decades later, William Unsworth (1851 to 1912), a pupil of Sir Edwin Lutyens, drew up a replacement house to engulf its predecessor.

The Petersfield Hampshire based architect is best known for designing the first Shakespeare Memorial Theatre in Stratford-Upon-Avon which opened in 1879. No doubt that’s where he developed his penchant for all things half timbered. William was friendly with Sir Edwin Lutyens who also wasn’t immune to jettied projections and multi diamond paned windows. The architect just happened to be the son-in-law of the client James Herdman and brother-in-law of the celebrated Missionary of Morocco, Emma Herdman.

The Herdmans had arrived in the north of Ireland from Herdmanston in Ayrshire in the late 17th century, first settling in Glenavy, County Antrim. This Plantation family swiftly established itself as big time farmers before entering industry. In 1835, the Herdman brothers James, John and George upped sticks to the sticks, moving from Belfast to Seein in County Tyrone. Seein (derived from the Irish word for fairy fort Sían) would evolve into Sion. John Herdman had gone into partnership with brothers Andrew, Sinclair and Thomas Mulholland who owned York Street Linen Mill in Belfast. Andrew Mulholland (1791 to 1886) built Ballywalter Park in County Down, the pinnacle of Sir Charles Lanyon’s country house designing career. His eldest son John was created 1st Baron Dunleath of Ballywalter in 1892.

The Herdman brothers brought this experience in the following decades to the development of a new mill at Sion. Flax fields and waterpower were the double draw to this site which was leased from the Marquess of Abercorn. The extant wheat mill would be redeveloped. Not content with just building a flax spinning mill designed by the prolific Belfast architect William Henry Lynn (1829 to 1915) – who partnered with Sir Charles Lanyon and his son John – next to a weir designed by the English engineer Sir William Fairbairn, plus a country house, the Herdmans philanthropically added a model village. Soon there was a school, a shop, churches and a fishing club as well as workers’ cottages. William Unsworth also designed a gatehouse to frame the main driveway to Sion House. Eschewing the tradition of single storey gatelodges, he opted for a convincing Hansel and Gretel version of the three storey gatehouse of Stokesay Castle in Shropshire. In the 1850s the Derry City to Enniskillen railway line was completed, running between the grounds of Sion House and Sion Mill, and crossing the River Mourne over Camus Bridge.

And so the glory days began. For eight decades the new Sion House happily played host to generations of the Herdman family and their guests. Celia Ferguson née Herdman MBE is the last direct descendant. She lives in the village and founded the Sion Mills Buildings Preservation Trust in 1999. Celia reminisced in 2014, “Sion House was my grandfather’s home. I lived there after the Second World War. It was such a busy house! As well as my relatives and Welsh nanny, there was a cook and four or five parlour maids. A dairy maid, washer maid and four under gardeners came during the day. The head gardener lived in the gatelodge. It was very self sufficient. In fact the whole of Sion Mills was like that. When we needed a plumber, he came from the mill.”

“The Italianate gardens were designed in 1909 by Inigo Triggs of Hampshire. Inigo was in partnership with William Unsworth and a friend of Gertrude Jekyll. I was asked to go along to Glenmakieran in Cultra, County Down, which I’m quite sure is another Unsworth house. In 1955 a fire threatened to destroy Sion House. Such a huge house. Nevertheless my grandfather rebuilt all 50 rooms exactly as they were before. I remember the oak panelling in the dining room and line wall covering in the drawing room.” Sir Charles Brett doesn’t attribute Glenmakieran to a specific architect in Buildings of North County Down, 2002, but does note that it was “no doubt inspired by Sir Edwin Lutyen’s house of 1901 at Deanery Gardens, Sonning”. He describes it as, “An extremely grand Edwardian merchant’s house, in the so called free style … built for Ernest Herdman: the foundation stone was laid in 1909.”

Celia concludes, “In 1967 it took just one day for Ross’s in Belfast to auction the house and its contents, even the books. The house went for only £5,000 and the contents £3,000. Fortunately Sion House is well documented. My grandfather wrote daily letters from 1934 to 1964 chronicling life in the house. At the moment I’m writing a book about my mother Maud Harriet MBE JP – a fascinating person. I now think of my Herdman ancestors as constructive revolutionaries totally committed to Ireland. They had great compassion for their countrymen and the courage to risk all to do something about their fate.”

The Irish Builder recorded the new Sion House in glowing terms in its December 1884 edition: “Sion House, the residence of the Herdman family, which for some time past, has been undergoing extensive alterations, is now completed, and as the building and grounds are singularly picturesque and pleasing, a short description of what is unquestionably one of the most unique and remarkable examples of domestic architecture in the north of Ireland, will be read with interest. The approach to the grounds is on the main road from Strabane to Baronscourt, about three miles from the latter place, and is entered through a delightfully quaint Old English gatehouse of striking originality, containing a porter’s residence and covered porch carried over the roadway. Winding down the graceful sweep of the avenue, through the wooded grounds which appear to have been laid out with considerable judgment many years ago, we catch a glimpse of the house, reflected in the artificial ponds formed in the ravine that is crossed by a two arch stone bridge of quite medieval character.”

“As we approach the house, the general grouping of the house is most pleasing, and the full effects of the rich colouring of the red tiled roof is now apparent, diversified with pitched gables, quaint dormers, the beautifully moulded red brick chimneys, the skyline being covered by the Tyrone mountains and the village church in the distance. The style of the building is late Tudor of the half timber character, which, thought it has been described as showing a singular and absurd heterogeneousness in detail, yet gives a wonderful picturesque in general effect. The principal entrance is on the north side, through a verandah supported on open carved brackets, in which is placed an old oak settle, elaborately carved and interlaced with natural foliage in bas relief. On entering through an enclosed porch we are ushered into a spacious entrance hall, with its quaint old fashioned staircase, open fireplace, and wood chimneypiece with overmantel extending to the height of the panelling.”

“The screens enclosing the entrance porch, as also that from the garden entrance to the southeast side, are filled in with lead lights glazed with painted glass and emblazoned with national and industrial emblems, monograms and coats of arms. The billiard room, which is in a semidetached position, and entered from the east side of the hall, is very characteristic of the style of the building, having the principal roof timbers exposed, and forming the pitched ceiling into richly moulded panels. The walls are wainscoted to a height of five feet in richly moulded and panelled work. The fireplace is open and lined with artistic glazed earthenware tiles of a deep green colour and waved surface, giving a pleasing variety of shadow, and is deeply recessed under a quaint panelled many centre arch, freely treated, forming a most cosy chimney corner with luxurious settles on each side. On a raised earth, laid with terra-metallic tiles in a most intricate pattern, are some of the finest examples of wrought iron dogs we have ever seen. There is also in this chimney nook a charming little window, placed so as to afford a view of the pleasure grounds. The reception rooms are on the south side. On entering the spacious drawing room we notice particularly the panelled arch across the further end, which forms a frame to the beautifully mullioned bay window enriched with patterned lead glazing.”

“From the recess of the bay a side doorway leads to a slightly elevated verandah enclosed with balustrade, extending the full length of the south façade and leading to the beautiful conservatory on the south side, with a short flight of steps giving access to the tennis lawns. The dining room is enclosed off this verandah by a handsome mullioned screen, having folding doors and patterned lead glazing similar to the drawing room bay. The walls of this room are panelled and moulded in English figured oak enriched with carvings, the arrangement of the buffet being an especial feature, as it forms part of the room in a coved recess and designed with the panelling. The fireplace is open and lined with tiles in two colours, of the same description as the billiard room, with chimneypiece and overmantel of carved oak, having bevelled mirrors, and arms carved in the most artistic manner in the centre panel. The mullioned screen masked by a gracefully carved arch made in oak and capped (as is also the panelling over the buffet and mantel) with a moulded cornice supported by artistically carved brackets and richly dentilled bead mouldings. Here and in the drawing room the ceilings are of elaborate workmanship, enriched in fibrous plaster, with moulded ribs in strong relief, and massive cornices with chastely enriched members. The floor, like those of the principal rooms and halls, is laid in solid oak parquetry.”

“The library and morning room are situated on the north side. These rooms are complete in arrangement for comfort, most of the required furniture and fittings being constructed with the building and in perfect character. The culinary departments are situated on the west side, on the same level as the principal rooms. They are of the most perfect and convenient description, containing every modern appliance for suitable working. Here also the evidence of artistic design is to be observed, more especially on a wrought iron hood constructed over the range for the purpose of carrying off the odour from the cooking to flues provided for that purpose. The hood is a very intricate piece of wrought ironwork which, we learn, was manufactured at the engineering works of Herdman and Co. The upper floors contain 16 spacious bedrooms and dressing rooms. Several of the bedrooms are obtained by the judicious pitching up the main roof, and obtaining light through the quaintly shaped dormers which form so marked a feature on the roofline. There is a spacious basement extending under the entire area of the building, which contains the usual offices, and in which are placed two of Pitt’s patented apparatus, now so favourably known for warming and ventilating, by which warmed fresh air is conveyed to the various apartments and corridors.”

“One of the great features of the exterior elevations is the balconies of which there are several, whence views of the varied scenery and charming surroundings can be obtained. There is also easy access to the leads of the roof, from which more extended views of the beautiful and romantic valleys of the Foyle and Mourne, together with the picturesquely grouped plantations of the Baronscourt demesne, and the far famed mountains of Barnesmore, Betsy Bell and Mary Gray can be seen in the distance. From this point a magnificent bird’s eye view can be obtained of the village of Sion and of the palatial buildings which form the flax spinning mills and offices of Herdman and Co, which we are pleased to observe are so rapidly extending their lines and improving under the enlightened policy of the spirited owners.”

“The gardens and grounds are laid out in terraces with low red brick walls in character with the house, which give great effect when viewed from the several levels. It is noticeable throughout the perfectness and richness of all the detail, which has been carried out with great care from special designs. The architect has succeeded in giving an individuality and picturesqueness of outline, due proportion of its parts and beauty of the whole, to the buildings and grounds, which have not been heretofore obtained in this part of the country. The execution of the work throughout was entrusted (without competition) to John Ballantine, builder of this city, who has carried it out in a style of workmanship maintaining his high reputation as a builder, and reflecting credit on the skilled tradesmen associated with him in the work. The entire building, gate entrance, bridge, grounds, fittings and principal furniture have been carried out according to the designs and under the superintendence of William Unsworth.”

Rex Herdman, a child of the house, would later recall, “The house was getting too small as the family grew up. Uncle Willie Unsworth did it very cleverly indeed, converting a square Irish country house into a long Tudor mansion with lovely proportions. He managed to build it around the old house with the minimum of demolition and alterations. At one end he added the present lovely hall and staircase, the drawing room – a room with great character, and a billiard room, now the library. At the other end he built the kitchen offices and servants’ hall. And over the main block of the house he added a second storey with a red tiled roof. Uncle Willie added on verandahs and balconies, and put a timbered shell on the outside, giving the house a Tudor style which in those days was most fashionable. Uncle Willie also laid out the gardens in terraces with steps and low brick walls.”

Opposite the mill high up on the far bank of the River Mourne in the parish of Camus-Juxta-Mourne (Camus is pronounced “Came-us”) stands Camus Rectory, an exquisite restored Georgian box. It is the polar opposite of Sion House in massing, design and fortune. The Herdman brothers bought the adjacent Camus Farm in 1847 and planted 10 hectares of oats and 1.6 hectares of turnips to feed their families and workers. Three hectares of flax were used for the mill.

While her family was having a transformative influence on County Tyrone, Emma Herdman was breaking boundaries and pushing back frontiers in north Africa. Her friend the Reverend Albert Augustus Isaacs, one of the first photographers of the Holy Land, wrote A Biographical Sketch Relative to the Missionary Labours of Emma Herdman in the Empire of Morocco the year after her death. He opens with, “Emma Herdman, the eldest daughter of James Herdman Esq, of Sion House, County Tyrone, Ireland, was born at Ligerton in the same county on 17 October 1844. From her earliest years she gave promise of attainments beyond those of her compeers. A French master, who was employed to conduct a French class, affirmed when she was but seven years of age, that he had never met with a child in his own experience of such mental capacity. At 13 years of age, Emma Herdman was sent to Neuwied on the Rhine, in order that she might acquire a competent knowledge of the German language. The school at Neuwied is under the direction of the Moravian Brethren. There is reason to believe that the work of grace in her soul was first kindled through the instrumentality of some Christian friends whose acquaintance she formed at a boarding house in Torquay.”

Emma was fluent in six modern languages and competent in Latin, Greek and Biblical Hebrew. Knowing Arabic would come in useful when she joined the North African Mission aged 40, moving from Tangier to settle in Fes (or Fez) in 1888. Albert explains, “A settlement in a town of this character was a matter of considerable difficulty. Up to that time no Consular agent or other representative of Great Britain had been settled in Fez. There were no other subjects of Her Britannic Majesty.” She was one of four female missionaries in the town who taught English and ran a medical clinic. “The authorities would hardly connect a number of helpless women with any intrigue, or any attempt to interfere with the customs and religion of the country. And when it became known that they ministered to the wants of the sick and suffering, it would serve to dissuade any zealot from canvasing the character of a work which bore such useful and profitable fruit.” Jonathan Hamill explains in The Herdman Family and Sion Mills: An Irish Linen Dynasty and Its Utopian Legacy, 2017, “Apart from two brief visits to England, in 1888 and 1893, Emma Herdman would spend the rest of her life in the African Missions.”

One of her many altruistic endeavours was her work with prisoners. Albert states, “In every land access to prisoners presents serious difficulties. The ladies of the Mission who had secured through their philanthropy and earnestness the respect of the Government officials, had no difficulty in reaching the vast numbers of those who were suffering imprisonment. Their native evangelists also got access to them.” In Emma’s own words, “The prison work increases in interest. We do a little in six prisons and three dungeons – practically large prisons also. In Fez most of the converts in the prisons are political prisoners – in irons, and always hungry. My bread, such as I send, is a luxury. For many I have bought matting, with which they make huts. I look for better Christianity here than in any land, for the people here have faith to start with, and many Christians have none – and many limit God. The believers here do not.”

In 1896, three years before her death, she ventured southwest in Morocco to Souss-Massa. Emma was the first European to enter this region. She records, “The scenery has been lovely. Some of the creeks would be valuable bathing places in a civilised land. We have come into the Bay of Agadir. One creek was full of large caves, the rocks forming flat roofs to them. In these caverns jackals, hyenas and foxes abound.” Albert confirms, “Much of the enjoyment of the scenery must have been lost to the traveller, for she was not allowed to wear spectacles. The use of these would have been an evidence that she came from one of the lands with which the inhabitants of Souss had a feud.”

On her return to Fes, Emma took suddenly ill but dedicated herself to work until the end. “She could not be dissuaded from receiving and teaching the group of men who hung upon her lips for instruction from the Word of God. A few of the number, in front of whom stands the vacant chair, have been photographed, to illustrate the manner in which this portion of her work was carried on.” When she rose from that chair her work was done – her pilgrimage was drawing to a close. “There was hardly an interval between the moment when her last words fell on the ears of the group of men, of whom she had been the venerated teacher, and the blessed summons into the presence of the King.” Her fellow workers decided Emma needed to get to Tangier – a four to five day journey – to meet a doctor. “Very early on the morning of Thursday 20 April, Miss Herdman, who had seemed no worse, was carried in the palanquin by bearers to the outside of the city. There the mules were yoked to it, and the party started.”

“On Sunday the party reached a village about 20 miles south of Alcazar. There Miss Herdman again became worse, and at dawn the following morning, just after the march had been resumed, she quietly passed away at 5am. After halting for an hour and doing what was necessary for our dear friend’s remains, the party proceeded towards Tangier that Tuesday, which was still 72 miles or so off. It was a sad procession which wended its way into the city of Tangier.” She was thought to have died of acute pericarditis and an ulcerated throat. Emma was immediately buried in a Christian cemetery in Tangier. “The Jew and the Gentile, the Moor and the Spaniard stood side by side with the English speaking inhabitants and the band of fellow works, in committing to its last early resting place the remains of their beloved friend. Miss Mellett wrote that ‘almost everyone was in tears’. One colporteur brought a geranium all the way from Fez to plant on her grave.” Albert summed up Emma Herdman: “Her energetic Irish nature was full of spirit and zeal.”

The July 1899 edition of The Monthly Record of the North Africa Mission (priced one penny) included an In Memoriam to Emma Herdman, “Various fellow labourers have worked with her, but she has ever been the leader. As a rule, she devoted herself to the work of teaching the people; and being older than the rest and more experienced, gave special attention to the men to whom younger ladies could not so well speak. Though not 55 at the time of her death, she had the appearance of being many years older, and her wisdom and experience caused her to be universally looked up to by both natives and Europeans. No native dared to be disrespectful to her. Large numbers of men and women came to her house for medicine, and she usually, though not always, left the doctoring to her fellow workers and attended herself to the spiritual work. Then she visited the homes of the people, and from time to time travelled extensively in the country.”

At the same time Emma was living in Fes, the north of Ireland’s great artist Sir John Lavery (1856 to 1941) made frequent visits to Tangier. The city was much more developed than Fes and the brilliant intensity of its coastal light attracted artists and wealthy visitors. His first visit was in 1891 and eventually he would buy a house in Tangier. Lavery on Location, a 2024 exhibition at the Ulster Museum Belfast, celebrated the artist’s work. Exhibited oils on canvas included The Road to Fez, The Camp, Evening (1906); On the Cliffs, Tangier (1911); and Tangier Bay, Sunshine (1920). The Pergola (1906) captures alfresco living at the Laverys’ winter retreat Dar-el-Midfah. In two very different ways, the legacies of these Irish giants of civilisation remain undiminished. Sir John Lavery’s art can be enjoyed in galleries in Belfast, Dublin and London. Emma Herdman and her cohort at the North African Mission established a Christian community in Morocco which continues to this day with the International Protestant Church of Fes.

The Herdmans’ evangelising efforts didn’t end with Emma’s demise. Jonathan Hamill relates, “After Emma’s death, her anti smoking teetotal vegetarian sister Agnes was moved to continue her work in Morocco … Agnes is referred to as a ‘Holy Terror’, a deeply devout woman with a seemingly endless supply of religious tracts, which she handed out to members of the family at every available opportunity. For example, a request to see the Catholic Cathedral in Derry was not all that it seemed. As Agnes made her way through the cathedral, boldly leaving her tracts on the empty pews, another sister scurried along behind her, discreetly gathering them up.” That other sister was Julia, who smoked a pipe and enjoyed a tipple of whiskey.

Back to the present and one of the workers talks about his experience at Herdman’s Mill: “I started a six year apprenticeship in the mill in 1965 and worked there for the next 13 years. I was one of six apprentices. All the basic skills were given to you – there was an inhouse training centre. There was about 600 people working in the mill then. During slumps in the trade we would sometimes be down to a three day week. All the facilities were immaculately kept: there was a bowling green, cricket pitch and tennis court. You got time off work to play matches. Mr Pat Herdman was small and very well built; he had leather sewn into the elbows of his jacket and had a wee dog. He would be chauffeured in a Bentley but sometimes he would drive around in his chauffeur’s Mini. The gardens of Sion House were fantastic and had a full time gardener. The Herdmans always had new potatoes that had been planted in sand for Christmas day.”

“There was the old mill and when I left the new mill was built. But there was also the original mill. Each floor of the old mill was a different department. The spinning room on the fourth floor was a wet process so workers wore aprons and were in their bare feet. The fifth floor winding room continued drawing out the thread. Then in the finishing room the flax was finally made into thread. The machines were all maintained inhouse by the overhaul team. The spinning room was all women but the winding room was mixed. At 10am tea was brought round and you could buy a cup. Byssinosis was a health risk of the flax industry but the Herdmans introduced ventilation and fans early on. We were the first linen yard in the world to build a floor with slots in it over the turbines for flax to be left covering the floor and the moisture from the water below strengthened it: this method was unique.”

Herdman’s Mill closed in 2004 and despite various attempts to rejuvenate the nine hectare site and its cluster of large buildings, it remains derelict and vandalised. Only a few metres away from the mill entrance, the gardens of Sion House are well maintained but such is the scale of the house that it requires restoration. Jeremy Williams writes in his 1994 work Architecture in Ireland 1837 to 1921, “Timber verandahs are losing out in their struggle to support wisteria.” The “beautifully moulded red brick chimneys” so admired by the Irish Builder disappeared during one of several phases of 20th century renovation works. The gatehouse is more manageable in size and in better condition: after lying boarded up it was restored in 2017 and the mock Tudor exterior has been painted mustard and skin colour rather than the more conventional black and white. The stable block with its distinctive clocktower abutting the main road through the village, another William Unsworth design matching Sion House, was restored in 2014 by Hearth Preservation Trust. Jeremy also writes, “The shingle stable block and the half timbered gatehouse screen once formal grounds from the outside world.”

After a couple of restaurants opened and closed, Dundalk born Chef Patron Niall Gorham has been successfully running Sika by Niall in one half of the former Sion House stables since 2023. The other half is a museum of the village. Originally from Dundalk, Niall has 22 years’ experience working in Dublin, Letterkenny and Strabane. This is his first solo venture. Sika comes from the deer that once roamed the nearby Baronscourt Estate, seat of the Duke of Abercorn. The 7th Viscount Powerscourt introduced this Asian breed into Ireland in 1860. The restaurant interior retains the stables’ leaded windows, parquet floor and roof beams. Sunday lunch is especially popular. Beetroot and vodka cured salmon with spiced caper berry dressing followed by roasted Ballyholey vegetable and goat’s cheese wellington with smoked paprika sauce is unmissable. Sion House has seen better days; Emma Herdman is long gone; Herdman’s Mill has definitely seen better days; but Sion House Stables are living their best life right now.

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Art Design Luxury People

Mary Martin London + Founderfest + Naomi Campbell In Fashion Exhibition + Victoria + Albert Museum Kensington London

Laudate Dominum

Mary Martin London fashion is characterised by a noble and decisive advance in qualities recognised as quintessentially modern: self confidence, introspection, subjectivity and scepticism. It’s an experiment with novelty of form, content and artistic practice; contradiction and ambiguity; a radical reshaping of tradition; and in a reflection of the eponymous fashion artist’s personal life, a fierce search for freedom, justice and equality. Revolutionary reconceptualization. Mary challenges the wearer to ponder and interpret the physical and metaphorical layers of her artistry. Her vivid expressiveness and psychological candour permeate through each collection. There’s a newness, a stark originality framed in a knowingness of modernity and postmodernity, and yet paradoxically a mnemonic function that sets Mary’s clothes apart. The dark spaces of her dresses are penetrated by preternaturally strong light that cannot be explained in ordinary terms. They convey a certainty about humanity, nature, the cosmos, the Divine. A woman of faith, she calls upon Tetragrammaton for inspiration. Her story is an etiology of the phenomenon of nations as well. Mary Martin London fashion is more than an antinomic macédoine: it is a semiotic embrace of science and conviction made manifest in materiality, tactility and sartorial disruption.

Nobody is better placed – culturally, artistically, objectively – to talk about the latest exhibition at the V and A. “Going to Naomi Campbell In Fashion was amazing. It’s something that shouldn’t be missed. I really enjoyed it because as soon as I went in there I felt the sense of creativity with all the amazing designers … the top designers, the best designers of all time … Chanel, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler. Everybody was represented! It was like being in the middle of Naomi’s wardrobe. Some of the styles on display are in vogue now but they were all before their time. Naomi has the aura – she is a fashion queen! She is made for the catwalk. Everything she is doing is amazing. I loved every single dress because I felt – oh this is where my world is! This is where I belong. And yes I belonged. I was happy to be there with my best best best friends Stuart and Janice! We had such a lovely time because we all love fashion and it was just amazing. And after we left we were talking about the show on the way home. Hats off to Naomi Campbell she is a fabulous person.”

Mary is featuring on billboards across Kensington as part of a campaign by Founderfest. Chief Operating Officer Cecil Adjalo relates, “I meet so many founders and it takes a lot of grit, perseverance. When you’re doing creative work it’s even harder. Mary really inspired me. It’s magical what she does. So I invited her to be a headline speaker at our annual conference. Founderfest is all about bringing entrepreneurial people together: founders, investors and also people from a corporate background. We are about connecting those people who wouldn’t have the opportunity to get the same privileges that others have when running a business. We promote opportunities with talent championing. After all she has been through and despite that she is so successful and doing fantastic things with her work. I knew Mary would be the perfect speaker! What she does is really magical.” On display at the V and A exhibition are The Plastic Dress, The Beads Dress and The Marilyn Monroe Dress. Next for Naomi Campbell has to be The Golden Nest Dress. By Mary Martin London of course.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Design Developers Hotels Luxury People Restaurants Town Houses

Murlough Country House + Dundrum Down

The Business of Heaven on Earth

County Down, the east coast riviera of the north of Ireland, is blessed with large Georgian houses. The five bay two storey variety with all the upright prettiness of a doll’s house is especially prevalent in the southern half of this county. Woodford House, Dromara; Milltown House, Lenaderg; Beech Park, Leansmount and Kilmore House, all in Lurgan; Tullymurry House, Newry; Cabragh House, Rathfriland; and Annaghanoon House, Waringstown are just a few examples.

Murlough Country House (formerly known as Murlough Farm) on Keel Point betwixt Dundrum Bay and Murlough Bay looks earlier than most. The roof is higher; the wall to window ratio greater; the window boxes deeper. It firmly falls into the category ‘middling sized houses’ (a phrase originally adapted by Sir Charles Brett from Maurice Craig’s 1976 Classic Houses of the Middle Size) in Philip Smith’s 2019 guide to architecture in South County Down, a continuation of Charlie’s series. The windowsills and entrance door are painted peach to match the colour of the jagged brick eaves.

We spoke to leaders in tourism and the arts to garner their views ahead of staying at the house and experiencing the local village of Dundrum. Tim Knox, Director of the Royal Collection, observes, “Murlough Country House is indeed a rather fine house, charmingly Irish and looking very good newly harled and painted.” Charles Plante, international tastemaker and former Art Advisor to Sir Hardy Amies, Queen Elizabeth II’s dressmaker, remarks, “This house brings together neoclassical and provincial architecture in an appealing vernacular – the Georgian style at its best and rarest in Ireland.”

David Roberts, Director of Strategic Development at Tourism NI, elaborates, “Northern Ireland’s heritage is a cornerstone of our tourism offering. For more than a decade, Tourism NI and our partners have been working closely together to drive investment in high quality heritage experiences and accommodation which are attractive to visitors. Our research has shown that the ‘culturally curious’ segment of visitors represents great potential for being attracted to Northern Ireland in the future.”

He tells us, “Historic buildings can provide exciting, place based visitor experiences which can encourage longer stays in one location and more local exploring. Promoting connections between places and a more regionally balanced tourism sector are key objectives for the emerging Northern Ireland tourism strategy. The visitor brand for Northern Ireland ‘Embrace A Giant Spirit’ embodies and draws inspiration from the area’s heritage. Tourism NI is delighted to have Murlough Country House as a provider of high quality visitor accommodation. It provides a fantastic base for visitors to explore the Mournes and the wider area.”

Philip Smith writes, “The first Murlough House was not the large Victorian era Italianate style villa built by Lord Downshire but this smaller less formal yet in many respects more interesting house about one kilometre to the east. It is a charming unpretentious two storey over high basement block with a steeply pitched hipped roof, large multiphase but relatively homogeneous triple pile return and two sturdy centrally positioned chimneystacks.” Mourne Farm started out as a slim rectangular block with a central staircase return wing. An extension either side of the return enlarged the building: the blocked up rear elevation windows of the 18th century house became cupboards. Horn free sashes give way to the later horned variety.

He notes that the long straight tree lined avenue is a good indicator of age and is likely to be early 18th century despite not appearing on Oliver Sloane’s Down Map of 1739. The present house is marked on Kennedy’s Map of 1755. The Centre for Archaeology Fieldwork at Queen’s University Belfast completed an Excavation Report of Blundell’s House at Dundrum Castle in 2009. Included in this report is a 1758 ink, graphite and wash drawing by Mary Delany titled The Ruins of Dundrum Castle. In the background it appears to show Murlough Farm albeit three rather than five bays wide. The Delanys rented Mount Panther three kilometres to the north of Dundrum around that time.

Philip continues, “Since the mid 1600s, the Blundells had been absentees and thereafter their house may have been occupied by their agents; but by 1748 the ‘slate house by the castle of Dundrum’ was reported to be in ‘disrepair’ and not long after this ‘Murlough House’ begins to appear in the record; it may well, therefore, have been built as a replacement.” The hillside and hilltop ruins of the 12th century Dundrum Castle form a spectacular backdrop to the village and the perfect vantage point to survey the Ancient Kingdom of Mourne.

Dr Ciarán Reilly records in The Evolution of the Irish Land Agent: The Management of the Blundell Estate in the 18th century, 2018, that the career of father and son Henry and John Hatch as agents of the 5,600 hectare Blundell Estate lasted over 50 years. The Dublin based Henry Hatch, taking up his position in 1747, would have housed property managers at Murlough Farm. The 3rd Marquess of Downshire, a Blundell descendant, would deliver a 91 metre long pier for Dundrum in the early 19th century. The Downshire family still retains a house in Murlough.

The Armstrong family lived in Murlough Country House from 1991 to 2023 before selling it to the current owners. Belfast architect Dawson Stelfox advised on heritage matters. “We restored the blue slate and copper nail roof,” Elaine Armstrong confirms, “and added hipped roofs over the two flat roofed extensions to the back. We also added the authentic orangery style Conservatory. When we got the front door lock restored, the craftsman said the key dates from 1730. It’s a special building and we fell in love with it. We’re so thrilled to see it being brought back into life as holiday accommodation.”

Like many Belfast citizens, Clive Staples Lewis developed an early love of the Mourne Mountains. Or the Mourne Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty as it’s now known: all 57,000 protected hectares. The novelist, theologian and mathematician wrote, “I have seen landscapes, notably in the Mourne Mountains and southwards which under a particular light made me feel that at any moment a giant might raise his head over the next ridge. I yearn to see County Down in the snow; one almost expects to see a march of dwarves dashing past. How I long to break into a world where such things were true.”

The restoration of Murlough Country House and its 2.4 hectare estate – a little piece of Narnia – is an essay on correct conservation, surpassing any former glory. The courtyard facing elevation, or southeast front, is different in character to the entrance front. All three storeys are on full display and the series of hipped roofs lends it the delineated air of a château. The white painted harling of the house so admired by Tim Knox contrasts with the grey rubblestone and cut stone of the outbuildings. This is holiday accommodation at its finest.

On the lower ground floor, the large southeast facing Shield’s Conservatory with a dining table for 12 people projects into the courtyard. Agar’s Snug, a cosy room with a wood burning stove leads off the professional chef’s standard Shield’s Kitchen fitted with Shaker style cupboards. Blundell is an accessible bedroom and shower room suite. No 18th century house is complete without a Boot Room.

At ground floor level, the elegant Entrance Hall terminated by a flying dogleg staircase is flanked by Maitland, a drawing room, and Downshire, a cinema. Formerly a dining room, a dumb waiter still connects Downshire to the lower ground floor. The Entrance Hall spans three metres and three centuries of living (from 18th century elegance to 21st century technology). An abbreviated enfilade. Mitchell is the king size ground floor bedroom with a shower room next door. It’s impossible to tell it was once the kitchen. Four first floor bedrooms look out across the gardens to Murlough National Nature Reserve and onwards to the Mountains of Mourne. A tasteful roundelay.

Annesley is the principal suite and faces northwest with views onto the side lawn. The walls are painted ‘clover’ in the Edward Bulmer range. A vintage Louis de Poortere rug adds even more vibrancy. Dual aspect super king size Armstrong bedroom occupies the full depth of the 18th century main block. Two shuttered northwest facing windows set into the thick walls frame the front lawn and paddock; a third window overlooks the driveway. The king size Macartney also overlooks the front lawn and paddock. Lore has it that the handblown glass in the two sash windows of this room was salvaged from a Jacobean house. Magennes is a northeast facing king size bedroom. A former nursery, this sunny yellow room was featured in a Farrow and Ball book. We recognise Nina Campbell and Christopher Farr curtains and cushions.

“Oh I do love a bit of T ‘n’ G,” our friend Min Hogg, Founding Editor of The World of Interiors, told us over coffee one time in her nursery floor apartment above the treetops of Brompton Square in London. There’s plenty of tongue and groove panelling in these bedrooms. Naming rooms is very much a South County Down tradition: think Mourne Park House. At Murlough, the rooms are called after families associated with the house and area. No 21st century country house is complete without a Sauna.

The abutting estates of Murlough Country House and Murlough House share a coastal landmass of great natural beauty attached to mainland all protected by the National Trust. Wetlands on one side, sandy beach on the other. Designated in 1967, Murlough is Ireland’s first National Nature Reserve and has the country’s best and most extensive dune heath. We stroll through its 280 unspoiled hectares. Wildflowers, wildfowl, wild ponies (everything is wild); unbothered living, forever steeped in Sunday stillness … it’s hard to believe Belfast is only 50 kilometres away and Dublin 150 kilometres. We care to disagree with Clive Staples Lewis, “Adventures are never fun while you’re having them.”

Now London based, artist Anne Davey Orr shares her reflections with us from across the water on Murlough. As Founding Editor and Publisher of Ulster Architect magazine, former Board Member of Belfast Civic Trust, Arts Council, National Trust, Design Council and Chair of The Lyric Theatre Belfast she is well placed. “Murlough or Muirbolc in Gaelige means ‘seabag’ or ‘inlet’. The modesty of this title hides its importance on a number of levels.”

Anne continues, “These heartlands of the MacCartan and MacGuinness clans were forfeited to John de Courcy when he marched on Ulster in his attempts to conquer Ireland. MacGuinness Castle was renamed Dundrum Castle. Donal Oge MacCartan, a MacGuinness cousin, surrendered the castle in 1601 to Lord Mountjoy, in Irish terms renowned for the gaol named after him in Dublin. In 1605 it was made over to Lord Cromwell and sold to Sir George Blundell in 1636.”

Maurice Craig states in The Architecture of Ireland, 1982, “John de Courcy set out from Dublin and took Downpatrick in 1176. He married the daughter of the King of Man and kept princely state himself, founding Inch Abbey and (through his wife) Grey Abbey, and beginning the castles of Carrickfergus and Dundrum.” The layering of the centuries. The entrance to Murlough Country House encapsulates the duality of its character: simple square capped pillars heralding a farmhouse; a stretch of walls attached to either side suggesting something grander. On the far side of the main road, the Slidderyford Dolmen – a megalithic portal tomb – makes Dundrum Castle look positively modern.

Neighbour Edward ‘Ned’ Cummins calls by for coffee in Shield’s Conservatory. We get chatting: “I’ve lived here all my life. My dad came to work here with horses on this farm when he was 14 years of age. I own the retired racehorses in the field next door. If I hadn’t accepted them they would’ve gone to France to be eaten. The proper way into this house was down my lane before what they call the ‘Downshire Bridge’ was built. Before that there was a wooden bridge. Where would you get a causeway like that going to a private house?”

Coffee and conversation are flowing. “The Yanks stayed here during the War. The trees down the driveway are all big trees but you come to a place that is nice and flat and they’re very small trees. The Americans cut the trees down and brought aeroplanes into that field there. They took over this whole farm too. There’s a strip out there for the planes to land. There was a load of Nissan huts round the back. They’re all gone now. The Annesleys bought this place for £12,000 I would say shortly after the War. They built the bathroom extension in the 70s. It’s block not stone. The buildings behind the house are the Coach House, Middle Barn, Piggeries and Woodworker’s Barn. The one roomed Bothy was the gamekeeper’s house.”

Ned ends, “Brunel designed SS Great Britain and it ran aground in Dundrum Bay in 1846. The captain got drunk and ran it straight into the sand bar. Brunel came over and stayed in the Downshire Arms Hotel for about a year. He orchestrated strapping the ship and hacking it up to get it seaworthy again. SS Great Britain was the first iron hulled screw propelled steamship.”

Peeling ourselves away from Murlough Country House, we wend our way into Dundrum, the gourmet capital of South County Down. Thrice. Colour seeps into Irish village architecture and Dundrum is no exception. Lunch is in Mourne Seafood Bar (the exterior is painted duck egg blue on the ground floor, goose grey on the upper floors and the northeast wing is sorbet yellow). Dinner in The Buck’s Head (painted olive green). Drinks in The Dundrum Inn (pineapple yellow and blackcurrant purple). The striking house with a gable clock and weathervane opposite Mourne Seafood Bar is salmon pink. Next morning coffee is in Cúpla with its damson blue signage – its name comes from the Irish for twins after Dominque and Shane Gibben who own the café.

But first there’s a visit to Dundrum Coastal Rowing Club. Andrew Boyd and Robert Graham proudly show off two boats they’ve built: Danny Buoy and Mystic Wave. “It started off as a community project to reconnect people round this coastline with our boat building heritage,” explains Robert. Traditional St Ayles skiffs were built by locals along the County Down coast from Donaghadee to Dundrum. “It took us six months to build Danny Buoy. We finished it the night before the 2016 Skiff World Championship Rowing Race. We just got it out into the bay to give it a test that it floated and then went straight into the race and won! We generated lots of interest and so we ordered the second kit and built Mystic Wave.”

Andrew is the founder of Kilmegan Cider. He relates, “I started about a mile away from Dundrum. It was my parents’ orchard and every year when we were younger we had to gather up the apples and store them in boxes. Waste not! We’d make a wee bit of apple wine and there was one year I went down and all the apples were lying on the ground. The fieldfares and redwings were having a field day. I decided to try a batch of cider with an old winepress. So it started as a hobby and grew from there. I registered it in 2014.” Kilmegan Cider has been winning national and international awards ever since.

It’s time for lunch in Mourne Seafood Bar which is in the former Downshire Arms Hotel, a grand three storey building dominating Main Street. Owner Chris McCann joins us. “Bob McCoubrey launched Mourne Seafood Bar in Dundrum in 2005 and in Belfast a year later. We took over the Dundrum restaurant seven years ago. Chris Wayne is our Head Chef. We stick to what the brand is – it’s in the name – and just have one meat dish on our menu. Our mussels come from Strangford Lough. Our oysters come from Carlingford – they have a sweetness and there’s a consistency of quality and supply. Wednesday night is lobster night. We’ve 10 guest bedrooms too.”

Samphire, known as ‘sea asparagus’, is a popular garnish foraged from Murlough Beach. Nowhere in Ireland is further than 85 kilometres from the coast. In Dundrum, make that one kilometre. Reisling served has the surprising label ‘Donaghadee’: the German winemaker married a County Down lass. Platters arrive – this is tasting on an epic scale! Cracked crab claws, langoustines and mignonette oysters. We devour the entire starters menu.

“All our food is farm or sea to plate,” welcomes Bronagh McCormick who took over The Buck’s Head with her business partner Head Chef Alex Greene in April 2024. He’s a regular on the TV programme Great British Menu. The pub was built in 1834. She records, “We’ve 75 covers in our dining room and we’re opening rooms for guests to stay over. We’re kept pretty busy with dinner reservations at least four weeks in advance.” Wheaten bread made with treacle sums up the menu: local with a twist. Pan roast salmon with gnocchi and charred broccoli continues the Dundrumesque seafood theme. Alex tells us later they also own the Fish and Farm Shop in nearby Newcastle. They’re custodians of produce.

“There’s nothing we’re not trying and there’s nothing we’re not doing,” Alex shares over coffee and cakes in Cúpla. “It’s very much an evolving product. We’ve a lot of repeat business, especially on a Sunday. We run Sunday lunch up to 7pm. We’ll add a couple more vegetarian options but if you put too many dishes on the menu the quality starts to drop. It’s better selling 30 of one dish in a day than three of 100. But you don’t want to make the menu too small either with not enough choice for people. Our meat mostly comes from my family farm three miles up the road.”

The Dundrum Inn, a few doors down from The Buck’s Head, is the perfect place to pull a late night Guinness and order a nightcap (make that a round of Kilmegan Ciders) in the large beer garden while being entertained by live music. The Dundrum Inn has been going for 190 years so far and is still a social hub. “Dundrum Village Association organises the Summer Festival,” says Community Leader Alan Cooley. “It brings everyone together. Food stalls, bands, circus performers and a raft race fill a Saturday each July.”

“Let’s go out on our boat!” is a thrilling suggestion by our hosts upon leaving Cúpla. Soon we’re riding the waves fantastic. Leaving behind Dundrum Bay to enter the Irish Sea, looking back, the castle has vanished under a cloud and gradually landmass fades to grey and disappears. Splash, crash, splash, crash! We’re now in the midst of the vast grey sea which has merged with the vast grey sky. There’s no horizon; everything’s grey. A grey seal swims by giving us side eye.

We recall Andrew Boyd telling us, “When you get the high tide running out of the bay and you have a bit of a southerly wind, there’s a roar of the sea known as Tonn Ruairí. This is the ‘Wave of Rory’ named after a Viking who drowned in Dundrum Bay from the forces of a mystic wave. It makes a crashing roaring sound. As much as the sea round here is beautiful you need to respect it.”

Brian de Breffny, writing in Castles of Ireland, 1977, breaks away from conventional architectural historian mode to wax lyrical, “Something of Dundrum’s distant Celtic past seems to cling mysteriously to the castle and its wooded hillside. Perhaps more than any other place in Ireland, it suggests too the world of the Norman adventurers and mercenaries – conquerors and Crusaders who fortified a castle in Ulster and talked there of the palace castles of the Seleucid rulers they had seen in the East – the world of the overmighty barons and Plantagenet kings.” Almost half a century later, his words still ring true.

There was a sense of crossing a border when we went over that triple arched causeway for the first time … we’d crossed a line into a slight otherness. And when Murlough Country House appeared, there was a sensation of arrival, of distant belonging. We would succumb to the enchantment of days spent passed in South County Down. Later, much later, unfurling thoughts and images of Dundrum, we realise anew it’s a place to experience the serious business of joy. And to parrot Clive Staples Lewis, “We meet no ordinary people in our lives.” And visit no ordinary places.

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Design Luxury People Restaurants

Sinabro Restaurant Battersea London + Yoann Chevert + Sujin Lee

Up and Down the Junction

The American journalist Abbott Joseph Liebling could have been writing about our favourite restaurant located Between the Commons rather than Between Meals: An Appetite for Paris (1986), “The small restaurants where a talented owner and his wife have direct control of the kitchen produce the best food in France now.” And England too. Sinabro is celebrating its 10th anniversary so we’ve hunted out the menu from our first visit in October 2014 to reminisce and booked dinner for the late reopening in August 2024 following the summer break. Owners Yoann Chevert and Sujin Lee have lots to celebrate.

Our decade old review below is already historic. Eateries Byron and Dip and Flip, estate agents Cluttons and Roderick Charles men’s clothes shop have all closed. Sujin, who hails from South Korea, explains, “‘Sinabro’ originates from the Korean term that signifies ‘progressing slowly but surely without noticing’. That aptly describes our 10 years on Battersea Rise. Our accomplishment is without any reliance on commercial marketing or media support. Instead it has been made possible by the incredible support of our cherished local neighbours and friends who resonate with our unwavering dedication to high quality cuisine.”

​First things first. Clapham Junction is not in Clapham. Never was, never will be. When the railway station was first built in Battersea, the Victorians had the bright idea of calling it after Clapham which is two kilometres away. The former was a slum; the latter as respectable as could be expected south of the Thames. How things change! Local campaigns regularly erupt proudly claiming back Battersea to where it belongs. Take note Clapham Cluttons on Northcote Road, Battersea. At least estate agents agree the best real estate in SW11 is Between the Commons. It’s a heated up toast rack of roads lined with handsome houses cushioned between Clapham Common and Wandsworth Common. As for the Clapham Omnibus it has long been replaced by the South Chelsea Tractor (range rover). This is after all Yummy Mummy Nappy Valley Uppity Middle Class Central. Upmarket has gone downstream.

Before London completely engulfed this part of semi rural Surrey, it was the home of architect Sir Charles Barry, property developer Thomas Cubitt, diarist Samuel Pepys, slavery abolitionist and saint William Wilberforce, and typographer and sinner Eric Gill. Not all at once. Battersea Rise forms one of the outer edges of the grill or grid. To the north, Lavender Hill may not have its mob anymore but gentrification – Sixties sociologist Ruth Glass is to blame for that overused term – hasn’t quite taken over. Yet.

The same cannot be said, to put it mildly, for south of Battersea Rise, the tract of land once owned by the 1st Earl Spencer. Here a Parisian meringue pâtisserie (Aux Merveilleux de Fred) qualifies as the corner shop. Byron as the chip shop. Dip and Flip as the other chip shop. The Bolingbroke Pub and Dining Room as the local. It’s not for the price sensitive. Everyone’s moneyed in The Old Bank Pub. There are as many red corduroys, yellow gilets, pink sweaters and pinkie rings on the street as in Roderick Charles’ shop window display. Welcome to Paradisian Battersea. Half the time the television series Made in Chelsea is made in Battersea.

Aside from Battersea Rise, the other boundaries of this low rise swathe of bed knobs and broomsticks land are Clapham Common West Side to the east, Bolingbroke Grove to the west and Nightingale Lane to the south. Social distractions aren’t new. William Wilberforce lamented in 1791, “I find that I must as little as is really right ask people to Battersea Rise to stay all night as it robs and impoverishes the next morning … in this way I love my time, and find indeed that less is done at Battersea Rise than elsewhere.”

So the competition is stiff, but really for boys who brunch not to mention wine and dine there’s nowhere quite like the restaurant Sinabro at 28 Battersea Rise. Welcome to Parisian Battersea. Francophile Marianne Faithfull’s song As Tears Go By plays softly in the background. In Paris do you drop the S? Does Moët have a hard of soft T? Do turbot and merlot rhyme? What about halibut and Malibu? But soon life’s perpetual worries and other first world concerns subside and fade away as lunch is served.

“We moved to Battersea three years ago,” relates Yoann who’s originally from Loir-et-Cher. “We fell in love at first sight with this area because of its urban and suburban mix. We didn’t so much choose Battersea Rise for our restaurant as it chose us. We’ve been looking for premises for four years in London and had several abortive cases. The pure Korean word ‘Sinabro’ resembles us. We work hard as ants or bees collecting their foods by instinct!” There are just 28 covers in the sparsely decorated restaurant: 12 at the bar overlooking the open kitchen, eight in a private space to the rear, and the remaining at two tables looking out the façade window onto Battersea Rise. “We have two, three and six course menus,” he confirms. “Eventually it would be good to keep only the six course tasting menu. Our customers say all of our ingredients in a dish have strong intense flavours yet are delicate.”

The two course lunch (£25.50) in October 2014 of liquid potato amuse bouche then Egg, Celeriac and Mushroom followed by Seabream, Cabbage and Mustard Sauce with Baby Gem Salad (£3.50) is modern French cuisine at its best. A two and a half course lunch soon stretches into three and a half with Fennel Bavarois, Strawberry and Lemon Sorbet for pudding (£6.90). The wine list is helpfully categorised. “Leafy and Savoury” includes Domaine Raymond Morin Saumur-Champigny 2010 Loire (£30). “Rich and Medium Bodied”, Weingut Von Winning 2012 Pfalz (£37). “Fruity and Supple”, Domaine La Ferme Saint-Martin Beaumes de Venise 2012 Rhone (£42). “Crisp and Mineral”, Château Carbitey 2010 Graves Bordeaux (£44). “Big and Bold”, Château Puy Mouton 2008 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru (£58).

Frédéric Simonin in the 17th District is our favourite restaurant in Paris,” says Yoann. “We worked together for eight years! He is such a talented man.” His Parisian experience also included working at Michelin starred establishments Le Taillevent, Le Meurice and La Table de Joel Robuchon. Yoann met his wife and future business partner Sujin at Le Cordon Bleu, the leading cookery school in Paris. Yoann was formerly Sous Chef under Head Chef Hélène Darroze at The Connaught Hotel Mayfair.

We’ve eaten at Sinabro in the intervening years of course. There’s always the pull of a frequently changing menu. For example, in June 2016, our table for two had starters: Tomato Gazpacho (£8.00) and Egg Pasta (£9.50); mains Turbot (£11.00); and puddings Lemon Tart (£7.00). The menu varies but the standard remains ever high. In May 2020, Sinabro came to us. Opening times are now dinner Tuesday to Saturday.

À la carte dinner in August 2024 starts with a snack, Carmelised Micro Anchovies (£4.50). Starter is Beetroot Tart: goat’s cheese, onion compote, Granny Smith apple, hazelnut (£13.90). Main is Fish of the Day: cod, cavolo nero, cauliflower, mixed mushroom, orange reduction (£29.90). Pudding is Cherry: chocolate brownie, meringue, mascarpone, black cherry sorbet (£12.00). Sinabro is still modern French cuisine at its best. Sujin reveals, “We like to change the menu every few weeks.”

The wine list is more traditionally organised into “Sparkling”, “Champagne”, “White”, “Rosé”, “Red” and “Sweet”. Examples from each category in order include Crémant de Bourgogne Veuve Ambal (£59.00), Devaux Grande Réserve Pinot Noir (£82.00), Viognier Maison de la Paix 202 Pays d’Oc (£39.00), Cochon Volant Château de Caraguilhes 2019 Languedoc (£49.00), Pinot Noir Hautes Côtes de Beaune Domaine Cauvard 2018 Burgundy (£59.00) and Sauternes Château Simon 2018 Bordeaux. The Tasting Menu (£54.00) can be wine paired (£39.00). French singer Requin Chagrin’s hit Sémaphore plays softly in the background.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Design Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

Marlfield House Hotel + The Duck Restaurant Gorey Wexford

A Bon Mot Cast in Stone

Margaret and Laura Bowe inherited good taste from their parents,” states architect Alfred Cochrane. He worked on Marlfield House Hotel over a 15 year period starting in 1982. “Mary their mother has incredible style and she wanted more accommodation. My work at Marlfield is Postmodern. I wanted the Conservatory to be a room away from the house, not directly attached. It’s inspired by Richard Turner’s  Botanic Gardens Belfast and the National Botanic Gardens Dublin glasshouses as well as Brighton Pavilion. The pond front of the single storey wing is designed to resemble a French hunting lodge. I had to insert a fire wall into the Staircase Hall of the original house. The Bowes bought superb 18th century fireplaces like the one in the Library. Great artists were brought on board: Marina Guinness and Victoria Ormesby-Gore created the Print Room and Nat Clements painted the murals in the Entrance Hall. Mary’s husband Ray dammed a stream to create the pond.”

Alfred’s work augments Marlfield’s presence both physically and aesthetically. Creative clients helped. “We’re all mad about design,” declares Laura Bowe. “Our family all have a good eye. I worked in Alfred’s practice for a while.” Mary and Ray bought the house and 15 hectares from the widowed Lady Courtown in 1977. It was built in 1852 by the 4th Earl of Courtown as a dower house. The house is tall, slim and elegant. Three storeys: four bay entrance front; four bay corresponding garden front with a two bay breakfront; and two bay bowed side elevation. The other side adjoins a two storey ancillary wing. Faced with rugged semi coursed rubblestone and red brick quoins. A parapet free pitched roof over deep eaves is punctuated by tall chimneystacks. The 5th Earl swapped some of the ground floor multi pane windows for plate glass sashes in 1866. “Courtown House was across the road,” comments Laura. “It was sold to the Irish Tourist Board in 1948 and pulled down.” Jeremy Williams records in his 1994 guide Architecture In Ireland 1837 to 1921, “Courtown House, the seat of  the Earls of Courtown, was much modified during the 19th century … William Burn was involved in remodelling the house.” The 9th Earl, James Patrick Montagu Winthrop Stopford, recently enjoyed a weekend at Marlfield.

The vivid reinvention of the former dower house, a joyous revivication, begins at the entrance to the grounds. In place of traditional stone pillars are Alfred’s whimsical wrought iron columns supporting wry wiry pineapples. This design is shadowed in a gazebo on the lawn. The entrance portico of the house bridges the gap between Neoclassicism and Postmodernism. There’s a layering of stylistic language at play, apropos for a polyglot architect. A Doric centrepiece steps forward from smooth stone bays; it’s deconstructed to become not so much a broken pediment as a broken temple ‘glued’ together with glazing. Beyond lies the vast semicircular Entrance Hall partly mirrored in plan by a bowed external water feature. A picture gallery connects the Entrance Hall to the State Suites of the single storey wing: the French Room, Georgian Room, Morland Room, Print Room, Sheraton Room and Stopford Room. “Inspiration for the Print Room came from Mariga Guinness’s work at Leixlip Castle and of course Lady Louisa Connolly’s famous Print Room at Castletown,” notes Margaret. “When the doors are pulled across the bed alcove, wedding ceremonies are often performed in this room.”

There are another 13 bedrooms, all with marble bathrooms, upstairs in the main house. Guests can dream and more in coronet, fourposter and half tester beds. The Conservatory on the garden front balances the State Room wing on the entrance front. History, luxury, harmony, geometry and symmetry: all are important at Marlfield, a billet-doux to hospitality. The Conservatory, an adventurous addition, is a tripartite triumph in cast iron and glass. A central projection balloons up to a storey high ogee shaped dome. The vertical frame of distinctive lattice metal pilasters topped by stylised Ionic capitals is as stylish as anything produced in the Regency era. The Ionic order with cerebral associations bestowed upon it by Vitruvius has long carried intellectual heft. Soaneian mirrored cornicing, cills and starburst ceiling roses reflect the omnipresent brilliance.

“I worked with Alfred and his business partner Jeremy Williams in the summer vacations while I was studying architecture,” says Albert Noonan. “I was involved in drawing the magnificent curvilinear Conservatory. Extending a period property is full of design challenges. Alfred tackled these challenges with confidence, building on historic references to create a statement piece that harmonises well with the original building both inside and out. The Conservatory is a joy to walk around and the interior with frescoed walls brings the beautiful gardens into the Dining Room. Stylistically it has not dated and looks as good today as when it was first built.” It reminds us of sitting in the conservatory of Ballyfin, County Laois, or Rokeby Hall, County Louth.

Albert reminisces, “As a young architect I was impressed by the uplifting experience of visiting Alfred’s projects. His designs deliver on functionality but they also incorporate creative details that add a sense of intrigue and visual interest. This approach to design influenced my career – I endeavour to create designs that not only meet clients’ brief of functionality but also create appropriate environments that are uplifting and pleasurable experiences for the end user.”

In a mark of approval, a continuum of tradition, an aligment of the story arc, a refinement of the built form, he would return to Marlfield to design the restoration and conversion of the coach house, potting shed and gardener’s tool shed into The Duck. The hotel and restaurant share the same avenue but then it forks off into different, albeit abutting, worlds. “The Duck is a meeting point for all directions in good or bad weather,” Margaret clarifies. “People come in the summer to sit on the terrace. People come in the winter to be near the fire. It sits 100 for lunch and 120 for dinner.” There’s a rustic feel inside: exposed stone walls and timber panelling. “The beauty of the restaurant is it overlooks the kitchen garden. There’s a kilometre long walk around the meadow. This whole place is in use, all 36 acres.”

Two years later, Albert designed the remodelling of the tiny Gatelodge, transforming it into a spacious two bedroom single storey residence. “It’s extremely popular,” confirms Margaret. “People never stay once.” A pair of simple gate pillars marking the entrance to the Gatelodge garden is repeated in the hedge opposite lining the avenue: that symmetry in action. He recalls, “The original Gatelodge was a classic and modest design and the extended building retains these attributes externally. Internally, we created visual interest through elevated ceilings and a varied palette of materials and textures including exposed brick walls, timber panelling, stone flooring and earthy muted colours. Laura has a great eye for furniture and fixtures that convey a sense of luxury and comfort.” An opaque circular ceiling window – like the one over the Staircase Hall of Alfred’s County Wicklow home – lights the Lobby leading into the large open plan Reception Room.

“Following on from the Gatelodge project, the Bowes wanted to provide more bedroom accommodation,” remarks Albert. “Rather than extend the main house it was decided to provide five freestanding Pond Suites. They’re of a contemporary design intended to complement the woodland setting. Each Suite has large windows and a terrace orientated to capture great views over the pond and island.” Margaret adds, “They’re called The Peacock, The Fox, The White Heron and The Blue Heron. We named the two bedroom suite The Nest.”

He continues, “The Pond Suites are constructed in a lightweight timber frame walling sitting on bored pile foundations to minimise disruption to the ground beneath. The floors are floating just above ground level. Main exterior walls are clad in cedar which will transform into a silver grey finish over time. The rear walls and monopitched roofs are clad in black coated zinc. We used Crittal steel windows. The monopitched design maximises the height of the façade glazing.”

As night falls and sun sets, dinner in the Conservatory hits more high notes than a Wexford Festival Opera diva. First there’s the prelude of parmesan and spice bread which sides the Courgette and Goat’s Cheese Canapé. Mozart in a mouthful. Seared Irish Scallops (roast apple purée, Granny Smith crisp) form the brisk and lively first movement of this incredible edible symphony. Pachelbel on a plate. Roast Onion Soup is lyrically relaxing. Bach in a bowl. Fillet of Pan Seared Halibut (concasse of tomato, sugar snap peas, mussels, lemon beurre blanc) ups the tempo and pumps the mood music. Tchaikovsky on the tastebuds. Marlfield Garden Rhubarb Millefeuille (vanilla pastry cream, candied ginger) provides a rollocking finale. Pudding is La Passione. Encore will be breakfast and encore une fois coffee and shortbread while the car pulls up for departure.

“I joined the team in 1994 after working in event management in London,” Margaret concludes. “Laura arrived back in 2004 after leaving the film industry. She is responsible for brand development and I take care of the sales department. On a daily basis, we manage the hotel together. Ireland is essentially a rural country and I’ve lived in the countryside for much of my life. My love of nature is my way of expressing the attachment, this Irish identity.” A tortoiseshell runs past into the herbaceous border. Margaret mourns, “George the peacock and the ginger cat died a couple of years ago. In July and August, George was always crowing, calling out for a lady. There are three cats now. They just appear! There are lots of birds too.” On cue, a heron swoops out of the pond, past two gliding ducks.

Five years after opening, Marlfield became a member of the coveted Relais et Châteaux group. Add sustainability to its list of qualities. The Gatelodge has triple glazed windows and a heat pump. That open plan layout is never draughty. “We strive to constantly reduce our carbon footprint,” assures Margaret. “We operate on green energy and are moving towards biogas. The Pond Suites are close to zero carbon. Our menus use local produce within a radius of a few kilometres. Over the last two years we have planted at least 150 trees.”

Courtown House long gone, Marlfield House is in its golden era. The dowager is now the doyenne.

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Pont Street + 11 Cadogan Gardens Hotel Chelsea London

Beautiful as a Story

“Architectural fashion is so often a reaction to what went immediately before. There’s even a perceptible difference between the father A W Pugin and the son E W Pugin’s work. The second generation architect’s designs are more rationalised,” believes artist and architectural publisher Anne Davey Orr. “Later, the use of concrete in the 20th century would issue in a much more open expression of materials and structure.”

The penultimate decades of the last two centuries both stuck to something of a “more is more” mantra. A sort of turn of the century syndrome. Eclecticism gone wild. Not without honour and slightly mad. Pont Street for the 1880s and 90s; Postmodernism for the 1980s and 90s. Out went conformity and goodbye to context; in came variety and hello to contrast. It was the ever inventive cartoonist Osbert Lancaster who came up with the name Pont Street Dutch due to the style flourishing in Chelsea. It could easily have been North German Revival, Flemish Revival or New Queen Anne. Or even Hans Town or Cadogan. Sir John Betjeman abbreviated it to Pont Street, making it even more geographically precise. He calls it the “new built red as hard as the morning gaslight” in his poem The Arrest of Oscar Wilde at the Cadogan Hotel. These days the SW postcodes are as golden as they are terracotta.

That’s the name explained but who invented the style? Architect John James Stevenson claimed Queen Anne as his creation. The practice Ernest George and Harold Peto produced some of the most overblown examples in Harrington Gardens but really the style was to become synonymous with the dominating work of Norman Shaw. Pont Street rang the death knell, scrawled the writing on the wall, beckoned the banshee for regular terraces, heralding an asymmetric age of individualism. “Look at me, look at me!” screams each house as the rooflines tipsily whoosh and swoosh over more Dutch gables than Keizersgracht. Against the navy canvas of a sun drenched winter’s morning, and to be repeated nine years later on a sun drenched summer’s morning, the red brick dressed with white stone renders Pont Street a patriotic tricolour.

Such strength of character allows 20th century blips such as the picture window spanning the penthouse of 41 Lennox Gardens to be immersed into the wider townscape. The houses celebrate their birthdays: “1884” shouts 25 Lennox Gardens from metre tall letters on its third floor. A few doors up, 43 Lennox Gardens announces to the world it’s a year younger. A wander in wonder along the streets of SW1 and SW3, the blessed boulevards of the Cadogan Estate, throws up a maximalist impure visual feast, an aesthetic eyeful, for the devil and angels are in the detail.

At a glance, here are some of the hyperactive highlights. Keyhold silhouette broken pediment copper domes in Sloane Gardens. Double decker dormers in Culford Gardens. Witch’s hat copper turrets where Draycott Place meets Blacklands Terrace. Quoined porthole windows peering out of 54 to 58 Draycott Place. A neo Elizabethan fretwork loggia hugging 3 Cadogan Gardens. Pierless Brighton balconies clinging onto 85 to 87 Cadogan Gardens. A château mansard atop 89 Cadogan Gardens. Twin Queen Anne fanlights surmounting the doorcase of 105 Cadogan Gardens. Stumpy Ionic pilasters holding up egg and dart capitals framing the porch of 60 Cadogan Square. A pair of ballsy busty bulbous oriel windows on the side elevation of 63 Cadogan Square. And that’s just at a glance.

Pont Street the address bisects Cadogan Place Gardens under the watchful eyes of the 18 storeyed 1961 Jumeirah Carlton Tower. But the great swathe of red is mostly found between Sloane Street and Lennox Gardens. The extremities of Pont Street dive back into stuccoland. A morning of architectural investigation must be balanced by an afternoon of gourmet indulgence. Historically, afternoon tea was the outcome of dinner slipping to beyond 7pm by the opening years of the 19th century. Hiccupping ladies at first surreptitiously downed tea and gobbled cake in their boudoirs after midday. By 1842, trailblazing trendsetting taboo busting gal about castle Anna Maria Russell, 7th Duchess of Bedford, was bolshily dispensing tea in her sitting room to fill the gap created by the evening meal becoming later and later thanks to gaslighting. Fast forward to the Pont Street era and both sexes were merrily letting rip into cucumber sandwiches and scones with clotted cream in the drawing room or on the lawn. Where better then to indulge than 11 Cadogan Gardens, the hotel launched by the eponymous Estate in 2012? A Darjeeling fuelled calorific high awaits: Carrot Cake Explosion; Chocolate Fudge Bar; Lemon Drizzle Loaf; Macarons; Raspberry Orange Battenburg.

The first part of the hotel’s name is mildly misleading: the reception rooms and 54 bedrooms are spread across four townhouses (“5, 7, 9 and 11 Cadogan Gardens” being something of a mouthful). Bright red brick with white trimmings, in some places to stripy effect (more bands than a 12th of July march); terracotta tracery and scrolls; rusticated Doric columns and shortened Ionic columns; rectangular metal balconies and semicircular brick balconies; windows of every frame and shape and type (more casements than a West Belfast cemetery; and again more sashes than a 12th of July march) and orientation (more than a Pride march in London); oriels, chamfered bays and rectangular bays; flat, round arched and segmental arched windows; mini, Dutch and swan neck gables; 11 Cadogan Gardens is as dynamic Pont Street as it gets. The last part of the hotel’s name is wildly accurate. It faces a densely treed green square. The only two London members of the exclusive Relais et Châteaux group are 11 Cadogan Gardens and its sister hotel further round the square, The Chelsea Townhouse.
The interior is just as eclectic. A maze of lacquered cloistered sequestered panelled hallways and lobbies and corridors and passageways leads into the consciously picturesque opalescent Drawing Room. Starched linen at the ready, afternoon tea awaits, designed to instil a divine inertia into the remainder of a stimulating day. Decked and bedecked, espaliered and jardinièred, the Terrace is tucked between the townhouses and the mews. Alive with remote anticipation, it’s a place to dwell on the meaningfulness of life. Another surprising place is the Versailles inspired Mirrored Hall, a space designed to contemplate the advantage of beauty. Monochromatic photographs of supermodels line the descending staircase to the basement gym. Oil paintings of aristos line the ascending staircase to the bedrooms. Souls of different ages bordering the universe in process of consummation. This hotel has a distinct and dynamic personality, one that is warm and sensuous.

Over to the father of town planning Manning Robertson of Huntington Castle, County Carlow, for some pontification on not just Pont Street but classification itself. Everyday Architecture, 1948, “Definitions of architecture are as unsatisfactory as any other expositions of the aim and meaning of the arts; but if architecture is to be alive at all it must clearly involve the erection of buildings to suit the demands of the period, and the embellishment of those buildings according to the dictates of the materials in use, the treatment being a direct reflection of the outlook of the epoch, based of course upon past work, insofar as it is applicable. We cannot say that the 19th century, which produced principally a dead copying of the past, did not reflect itself truly; it was, on the contrary, amazingly accurate in illustrating that the worship of material prosperity is not consistent with a high level of art.”

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Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

Hôtel Meurice Calais + Charles-Augustin Meurice

The Last Word

More than a mere port, it’s a tale of two cities: Calais-Nord is a manmade island surrounded by canals and basins. St Pierre is the part of the mainland that hugs the island to the south and southeast. Calais has its own unique charm. Like Paris, there is a Notre Dame and a hotel called Meurice. The Calais variety is on Rue Ernest Lejeune in Calais-Nord. Since 1835, its Parisian equivalent has been on Rue de Rivoli. A glass of wine costs €4.50 in the former; €32 in the latter. To stay in one of the 41 rooms near Parc Richelieu will cost you at least €76; it’s a minimum of 12 times that for one of the 160 rooms overlooking Jardin des Tuileries. The interior of Hôtel Meurice Calais has mid 20th century geometric panelling and strongly coffered ceilinged rooms filled with local antiques. Le Meurice Paris was given an early 21st century cosmopolitan makeover by Philippe Starck. True to the designer’s form, it’s a luxurious whimsical creation playing with scale and form. The Paris hotel is two kilometres as the common buzzard flies from Notre Dame. The Calais one, 100 metres from Notre Dame.

Charles-Augustin Meurice (1739 to 1820) was an enterprising postmaster who realised the strategic location of Calais for English tourists travelling onwards to the French Capital. In 1771 he launched a coaching inn in Calais and eventually 46 years later opened another one in Paris, capturing custom at either end of the 36 hour journey. Monsieur Meurice trailblazed such innovations as laundry soap, currency exchanges and English speaking staff. The Calais hotel uses Damana bathroom products; the Paris one, Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Like much of Calais, Hôtel Meurice was destroyed in World War II before being rebuilt in a rationalist style in the 1950s. A sweeping staircase leads from the open plan ground floor reception to bedrooms on upper floors overlooking a walled garden to the rear.

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Architecture Art People Town Houses

Notre Dame Church + Tudor Garden Calais

Epiphanic Moments

On two glorious summer mornings, six years apart, we’re twice smitten by the shy charm of Calais and its most passionately historic monument. Eight centuries of art and beauty, faith and form, in glorious harmony. The grey spire of Notre Dame Church rising above the White City residential architecture of Calais is as beautiful as it is unexpected. What’s not to admire?

· 1214: A small stone church is erected.

· 1224: It is extended to become a parish church which will be subsumed into the final building.

· 1347: Calais is captured by the Plantagenets in August and the Archbishop of Canterbury becomes head of Notre Dame. The nave is heightened, the side aisles widened and a belltower is built above the intersection of the nave and transept. Flemish masons add their twist to the Perpendicular English architecture.

· 1469: On 11 July George Plantagenet, 1st Duke of Clarence, marries Isabel Neville in the church.

· 1558: Calais remains under English control until it is recaptured in January by Scarface, 3rd Duke of Guise. It then falls under Spanish control for a while.

· 1560: St Nicholas Church is demolished making Notre Dame the top place of worship in the city.

· 1598: Under The Treaty of Vervins between King Henri IV and King Phillipe II of Spain, Calais becomes French again. Phew!

· 1600: A side chapel is built. The church is now 88 metres long and has over 6,000 congregants.

· 1624: Adam Lottman, a sculptor from Coulogne, creates the tripartite marble and alabaster high altar, 10 metres high by 10.3 metres wide. Statues of St Louis and Charlemagne are mounted on either side with Christ at the top of the retable.

· 1629: Assumption of the Virgin Mary, a vast painted by Gérard Séghers, a student of Rubens, is placed in the centre of the high altar.

· 1631: The Lady Chapel is added.

· 1802: After being converted to a Temple of Reason during the French Revolution, the church is reconsecrated. Double phew!

· 1863: The Dean of Calais commissions plasterwork decoration of the vaults.

· 1921: General Charles de Gaulle marries local lass Yvonne Vendroux in the church on 7 April. Signs will be erected throughout the city over the intervening years to remind visitors of the marriage.

· 1944: Allied Forces bombard Calais and the 58 metre high belltower of Notre Dame falls through the roof into north transept.

· 1963: Reconstruction of the nave and belltower begins.

· 1970: The roof is put back.

· 1976: Stained glass windows by Gérard Lardeur are inserted to fill the medieval mullions and transoms.

· 2009: The Association for the Development of the Architectural Heritage of the Calaisis begins restoration work.

· 2010: English landscape architect Caroline Holmes is commissioned by the Association to create a Tudor Garden. She explains, “The garden is named after the dynasty that ruled over Calais during the period 1485 to 1603. The design and planting of the garden is inspired by the interior of the church.”

· 2010: Queen Elizabeth II visits and inspects the new Notre Dame de Calais Rose in the Tudor Garden.

· 2014: The jewel of the Pale of Calais is fully restored. Our Lady lives again. Triple phew!

· 2018: Lavender’s Blue visit Notre Dame, inspecting the subtly restored interior and walking round the Tudor Garden which is taking shape.

· 2024: Lavender’s Blue revisit Notre Dame, inspecting the subtly restored exterior only as the doors are shut and walking round the Tudor Garden which is in full bloom.

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Architects Architecture Design Developers People Town Houses

Calais + 20th Century Architecture

Within the Pale

Northern France did not get off lightly in World War II and Calais was among the worst casualties. Notre Dame Church is one of the few built environment survivors and even it was badly damaged. The city became more void than place. The Ministry of Reconstruction and Town Planning was established in November 1944 by President Charles de Gaulle. Under the direction of its Minister Raoul Dautry who held the post from 1944 to 1946, Government architects, planners and engineers who had been in office since 1940 and survived the war formed the backbone of this new department.

Ruins were cleared and construction got underway in Calais in 1948. The original overseeing architect, Jean Gondolo, promoted low rise buildings varying in style between White City flat roofed boxiness and red brick pitched and hipped roof domesticity. Flemish details, especially curvy gables, add a surprisingly retro charm to his Rue Royale. But a visit by Eugène Claudius-Petit, the Minister from 1948 to 1952, resulted in the local architect being sidelined. The Minister dismissed Jean Gondolo’s work as not sufficiently Modern or high rise and he took over the role of city architect. Place d’Armes opening off Rue Royale is more closely aligned with the Modernism and scale of Eugène’s friend Le Corbusier’s oeuvre. Seven decades later, Calais is viewed as a place to pass through rather than visit. A midpoint, not endpoint. Its richness of postwar reconstruction architecture bypassed or unseen. But there is much to behold for the trained and trainable eye.

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Design Fashion People

Misty Bailey +

And Then Came Paradise 

Some people suit blonde hair. Not many suit brown, blue or blonde hair. There was only one Misty Bailey. The Jamaican British beauty packed a lot into her three decades. She started modelling aged 15 and soon was the face of campaigns for Adidas, Balmain, Bottega Veneta, Ellesse, L’Oréal, Louis Vuitton, Revlon, the list goes on. Misty also modelled for London’s leading fashion designer Mary Martin London. A British Vogue regular, her wider achievements were recognised when she was appointed Ambassador for the UK Parliamentary Society for Arts, Fashion and Sports. It was always a thrill to chat to Misty backstage at Africa Fashion Week London before she took the catwalk by storm. Some people light up a room. Not many light up a show.

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Architecture Art Country Houses Design Developers Fashion Hotels Luxury People Restaurants

The Gunton Arms Thorpe Market + West Runton Beach Norfolk

Why Bee Aye Ate Al

It’s so exclusive there’s a two month waiting list for a weekend meal and a six month wait for a bedroom. There’s a no vehicle policy – a green path crosses 400 hectares of rolling parkland to the front porch (the car park is hidden behind a copse). It has one of the finest private collections of contemporary art in Britain. The ground floor rooms are decorated by England’s best known restaurant designer. The owner is married to an American supermodel. Welcome to The Gunton Arms. Cheers!

The story starts in 1982 when property developer Kit Martin, businessman Charles Harbord-Hamond and art dealer Ivor Braka purchased the Gunton Park Estate and restored the buildings and land. The main house, Charles’s family home, was carved into several properties. Kit’s father Sir Leslie Martin ran the Department of Architecture at the University of Cambridge along with Sir Colin St John “Sandy” Wilson in the Modernist mid 20th century.

The Gunton Arms, a long low two storey building faced with grey stone and decorated with fretwork gables, was originally Steward’s Farm, a shooting lodge attached to Gunton Hall. In 2011, Ivor launched The Gunton Arms, a pub with 16 bedrooms, in the Victorian building and the rest is history. Or at least a new chapter of history.

Jonathan Meades writes in The Plagiarist in the Kitchen (2017), “Nothing needs reinterpreting. Nothing needs a ‘twist’. The wheel has already been invented. The best a cook can do is improve on what’s there – that usually means stripping out redundant ingredients. It means going back to the very foundations, of starting from zero in order to reach a point that has been reached many times before.” The menu at this pub takes a leaf out of Jonathan’s book. There may be dishes like Portwood asparagus and feta salad with shallot dressing on the menu but traditional pub grub like cod fishfingers with chips and mushy peas also makes an appearance.

Knightsbridge based Ivor explains, “I’m closely involved but not every day. Luckily I took the advice of Mark Hix, former Head Chef of Le Caprice, J Sheekey and The Ivy among others. Mark effectively gave me his Head Chef Stuart Tattersall and Simone, Stuart’s partner, to take on my first pub. They’d wanted to start their own pub in the country but decided under Mark’s encouragement to join me.” Steaks are cooked on an open fire. St Véran burgundy tops the wine list.

Who better to do an impromptu tour of the pub artwork than the owner himself? His story. “What is common to all of the pieces is that they are made by people who have a passionate commitment to what they create. They are not for decoration only to just be easy on the eye; they are to stimulate, to provoke thought and to evoke emotion.” The list of artists reads like a guide to 20th and 21st century art from figuration to abstraction: Frank Auerbach, David Bailey, Tom of Finland, Lucian Freud, Gilbert and George, Damien Hirst.

But Ivor doesn’t neglect local and historic connections either: “At high level over the wood panelling in the entrance hall there are photographs relating to the history of Gunton, Gunton Hall and especially the Suffield family and its connection with the Royal Family and Lillie Langtry, the actress and mistress of the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII. Langtry was the most celebrated beauty of her day. Whilst the Prince of Wales was staying at Gunton Hall she stayed at the shooting lodge to be close to him.” The current Prince of Wales frequents the pub. History repeating itself. “To one side of the front door is a work by Hans Peter Feldmann, an artist who specialises in adding the unexpected to old paintings he has found in antique shops. Here, he has given a formally posed 19th century lady a black eye, a clear reference to domestic violence. It’s a picture that’s comic but with obvious serious intent.” History, updated.

The Elk Room is the main bar and restaurant. Ivor says, “This room is dominated by the massive fossilised skull of a Giant Irish Elk, the largest deer that ever lived. It was found in a peat bog in Ireland and is over 10,000 years old. I bought it at an auction in Ireland and it was formerly in Adare Manor, a Gothic house designed by Pugin for the Earl of Dunraven.” Like several major Irish country houses, such as Carton in County Kildare, Adare Manor in County Limerick is now a five star hotel resort.

“In the corner of the room are a series of lithographs depicting alcoholic women and their children by Paula Rego. Born in Portugal but working all her life in England, Rego is regarded as one of Britain’s most distinguished artists. Her work has a dark humour and complexity of purpose redolent of the tragicomic vision of Goya or Cervantes. These lithographs are the result of a request from a wine producer to design memorable labels for their product. Rego responded by letting her imagination run riot with this series focusing on lonely women with babies desperately turning to drink.” The company never did use them. Too memorable.

The Elk Room flows into The Emin Room. “Addiction is again a running theme in this interior: the addiction to love and emotional need which comes over strongly in Tracey Emin’s three neon works Trust Me, I Said Don’t Practice On Me, and Everything for Love,” Ivor relates. “All these works directly convey a need for sincerity, for total emotional commitment and a huge fear of the possibility of the lack of it. The neons are executed in the artist’s elegantly distinctive forward sloping handwriting. To me, Tracey Emin, with her total dedication to her work and her directness, is one of the most impressive artists working today.” Martin Brudnizki designed the downstairs rooms; Robert Kime, the upstairs.

Racy humour is all around. Falling Leaves by Jonathan Yeo, famous for his red portrait of Charles III, is actually a collage of cutouts from porn magazines. Ivor jokes it’s “clitorati”. As a male appendage counterpart, a metal doorknob drops the K. There’s a chromatically vivid image by British photographer Miles Aldridge of the Buffalo New York born supermodel Kristen McMenamy. She rose to success in the 1990s with her ethereal alternate beauty. Kristen is a Donatella Versace favourite and friend of Linda Evangelista.

Yet there’s also serious commentary. He finishes, “Kitaj constantly involves his Jewishness in his art and this small portrait derives from a famous photograph of Hitler’s admirer and Nazi sympathiser Unity Mitford. Kitaj is deliberately implicating the English upper classes with antisemitism and an admiration for the German fascist regime.” History must not repeat itself.

“I will defend the fashion world to the end because I know it personally,” opines Kristen, who is Ivor’s wife. “From the outside it might look like a vanity project of marketing and capitalism. But from the inside it’s a lot of great people. I don’t think I was specially phenomenal looking – because I wasn’t. I had to work a little bit harder than the others. You look at some girls and they’re just so incredibly beautiful. But some of those beautiful girls don’t last because they don’t have something, that magic. I would say with the top girls you gotta have something more than just the way you look.”

The following morning, a stroll along the windswept West Runton Beach, which as the crow flies is about as close to Amsterdam as London, waves splashing “barely suggestive of the violence of the deep” (James Baldwin, Another Country, 1963), is like being immersed in an Edward Seago watercolour. Now that’s another artist whose work should be hung at The Gunton Arms. Just saying.

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Architects Architecture Art Country Houses Design People Restaurants

Houghton Hall + Gardens King’s Lynn Norfolk

Big Boots To Fill

You know you’ve landed on your (gentrified) feet when you measure your parkland in square kilometres not old fashioned hectares. Better still when your toffish turnip patch is in Norfolk, with postcodes so posh there’s currently a chronic shortage of cleaning ladies (or gentlemen). Listing is like degrees: it’s best having a Grade I and getting a 1st or being unlisted and getting a 3rd. Throw in a (mostly) James Gibbs exterior and (mainly) William Kent interior and – bravo! – you’ve arrived at Houghton Hall. But first the yellow Snatterscham stone Kentish stables. For non Cholmondeley family members and guests, lunch served on monogrammed china in the courtyard is still pretty swanky. Venturing up to the silvery Aislaby sandstone house, much of the piano nobile is open to the public. Upper floors and wings attached to the main block (with its domed square corner towers) by colonnades in true Palladian fashion are not. Who’s the family? Who are the guests? Who’s Who?

Lady Rose Hanbury and David Cholmondeley (the 7th Marquess and Marchioness of Cholmondeley to you) are famously great chums with Wills and Catherine (the Prince and Princess of Wales, again to you). And neighbours: Sandringham is so close there’s simply nobody else in between who matters. Built for de facto first British Prime Minister Sir Robert Walpole, his collection of 400 Old Masters may have dwindled when his grandson flogged most of them to Catherine the Great of Russia, but David Cholmondeley is forever hosting exhibitions of contemporary artists. That’s when he’s not acting as Lord-in-Waiting for King Charles. Back when he was David Rocksavage (so many surnames) he directed a film version of Truman Capote’s semiautobiographical first novel Other Voices, Other Rooms. David has revived the Walled Garden in honour of his grandmother Sybil Sassoon. Six full time, two part time and 12 volunteer gardeners look after these heavenly two hectares.

A rustic floor (fully exposed basement) handily elevates the piano nobile to max out views of the 18th century rolling (thanks to a haha) parkland by Charles Bridgeman. Pride of place in the centre of the garden elevation is the double height Stone Hall, a 12 metre cube. The State Bedchambers are especially sumptuous. Most atmospheric of all is the top lit Great Staircase, a tower of ghostly shadows. On the dining table in the Marble Parlour is a contemporary Jasperware piece by Magdalene Odundo inspired by Josiah Wedgwood’s correspondence with a slave turned abolitionist Olaudah Equiano discovered in Houghton’s archives. Just one of Antony Gormley’s 100 sculptures (positioned at the same height to create a single horizontal plane) makes it into the interior: the body is half submerged in the rustic floor Arcade.

Lady Rocksavage’s polished boots are set out. Anyone for riding?